GARDENING NOTES

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXXII, 16 December 1938, Page 6

GARDENING NOTES

WORK TO BE DONE rHE VEGETABLE PLOTS Tomatoes must be kept staked or supported. Side shoots must be pinched out and the plants sprayed. It is best not to apply much water or manure until the fruit has commenced to set. Preparations should now be made for the setting of next winter’s crops. As plots become available the ground may be set with oats for green manure while the plants are being raised. Sow for next winter’s crop borecole or curly greens. Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red pickling cabbage, savoy, drumhead cabbage, leeks and celery. Deep cultivation by either hoeing or forking between the plants is essential to success at this season of the year. Hoe between the rows and draw the soil up to the plants. This gives more loose soil for roots to work in, and also acts as a mulch and a support to the plants. Continue planting sweet corn in drills and thin out the plants to one foot apart. These are often used for growing round marrows and pumpkins for shelter. The following may be set now: Peas and beans, broccoli, carrots, parsnips, radish, beet, turnip, parsley, lettuce, cucumber and marrows. Plenty of water will be required as the young seeds germinate, otherwise the fertility may be burnt out of the plants. Backward crops can be hastened on with liquid manure, and constant hoeing between the rows will keep the soil loose. The point of the running shoots of pumpkin, etc., should be pinched out to cause laterals to form. ’MIDST THE FLOWERS For planting underneath trees and shrubs on the lawn, petunias are splendid subjects. They soon cover the ground growing in semi-creeper habit and yielding masses of cup-shaped flowers. A little water now and then is all that is required. Plant twelve inches apart.

Rhizomateous irises can be lifted, divided and replanted once they have finished flowering. To prevent rhizome rust treat the ground with fertiliser.

If watering is being done, let it be thorough. One good soaking is better than a whole lot of light splashes. After watering loosen the surface of the soil by hoeing or working to prevent undue evaporation.

One good wat' • should last a week. In many cases plants have to do without any and survive. Sow the following seeds for late autumn flowering:—Phlox, petunia, celosia, cockscomb, marigold, cosmos, portulc.cca, amaranthus. If you wish to keep your plants flowering, spent and dead blooms must be removed to prevent seed pods forming. Lobelia cardinalis is a plant of recent introduction and one worthy of summer planting. The foliage is a dull red colonu. growing about 1 foot high and protlucing spikes of scarlet flowers s.milar to a delphinium. The foliage dies back in the winter and comes up early in the spring. Chrysanthemums will need attention by staking, etc. Should aphis appear spray at once. Any good nicotine preparation will be effective. Disbud border carnations. This is necessary, even if the flowers are only grown for cutting. Keep the blooms supported to prevent the stems becoming bent. Creepers may now be planted. Nothing can disguise an old fence or tree stump like a creeper. The following varieties are all hardy and easily grown: Doliches, asparagus, mandevillea, mina fi.batn. beg inia. akebia. and clematis. Salpiglossis arc now ready for planting. They require a warm spot and do well in any soil. The flowers are beautifully veined and marked and the colouring gorgeous. Plant about 18 inches apart. Clear away any plan's that have done flowering, fork over the soil, and re-

plant with some autumn flowering plant.

Bulbs that did not flower well last year or those that have been in the ground for some years, should now be lifted and cleaned prior to replanting. Most of the bulbs will now be dormant, and the sooner the lifting is done the better.