A Page FOR WOMEN

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXX, 3 October 1936, Page 10

A Page FOR WOMEN

ROUND THE DRESS SALONS

CRUISES AND CUMMERBUNDS GRECIAN FRIEZE The season is drawing to a close now, and most of the designers are resting on their laurels. I visited two or three of the best salons a few days ago and was shown what the artists considered the most successful of their models. First came an adorable frock, which would have been as suitable for a

small dance as for the garden par

for which it was originally, designed. In pale, fresh looking green chiffon, both bodice and skirt showed tucks two inches wide, set two inches apart. At the neck' line was a charming little square berthe arrangement, and at the wrest a folded black cummerbund. Black gloves and a picturesque black hat were worn with the model, but I had no difficulty in visualising it, minus hat, at a debutante’s evening party. Under the same dual purpose heading I placed the dark green chiffon frock, which.had an important looking panel at the back of the skirt, finely gauged at the waist and dipping slightly so that it formed a small train which just rested on the floor, rather on brassiere lines, shirred to the front. The third of these dresses which pleased me was in white organdi, amusingly embroidered with quaint little Noah’s Ark figures and trees. The embroideries were done in black, with a new kind of material called cellophane straw. There was a cer-

tain sparkling quality in them and * they stood out boldly on the fresh white background. Here, again, the black cummerbund was chosen instead of a waist belt or sash. Long black gloves and a lovely large black hat completed the ensemble. But picture it in the evening, when the dance room grows somewhat close, and think of the cool effect of the piquant black embroideries on the crisp white organdi. Then I saw Victor Stiebel’s own favourite suit of the collection. A simple affair, with the usual slim, rather short skirt, and the hip length, equally slender, jacket over a delicate white chiffon blouse. The background of the crepe of which the suit was made was navy blue and all over it, in even

horizontal lines, were printed exquisitely formed Grecian frieze figures, which reminded me of a beautiful piece of mural decoration or of some priceless pottery. I liked the

suit and, although I am not generally in favour of exotic prints and embroidered materials, I could find no fault with this because it was a work of art. Another ensemble showed what could be done with brown and pastel blue extase crepe. A long, slinky, simple dress in the dark brown material had the favourite cummerbund of blue crepe, • while the little coat was made of the brown crepe, lined with the blue. I did, not see this jacket reversed, but have an idea that it could have been worn, with equal effect, blue side out. Brown gloves and a picture hat in fine brown straw were the complementary items here. LINEN AND HOPSACK Going on to another salon, I found some very nice things in uncrushable Irish linen, some of them looking like 1 veed and, I should say, having the L-me Obliging wearing qualities. One which appealed especially was in a clear shade of blue, not so bright as Royal, not so misty as delphinium. The skirt had flat inverted pleats back and front, stitched down to within six inches or so of the hem, and the coat was a short wisp of a thing, with linked button fastening, elbow length sleeves and fiat collar and revers, perfectly tailored. The blouse looked fresh and youthful, in blue and offwhite striped linen of which material the gloves also were made.

Another outfit which deserves to be mentioned was developed in sun tan coloured hopsack of open weave. It was a jumper suit, excellent for holiday wear, quaintly trimmed with white wool pom-poms of golf ball size. They appeared as buttons to fasten the jumper, they decorated the pockets, and two dangled from the points of the collar. I thought of cruising on a clay not warm enough for linen or muslin, and mentally added an impertinent beret of the hopsack with a large white pom-pom on top. ! A second hopsack dress showed what-could be done by a woman who is clever at embroidery work. The dress had collar and deep revers, scalloped at the edges and worked in buttonhole stitch with white wool. The hem was similarly treated; so were the tops of the pockets.

I Speaking of cruising, the best of all ; outfits, in my opinion, is the short pleated skirt of white linen worn with a hip length jacket in navy blue, the jacket severely tailored and standing no nonsense in the form of a sailor’s collar or quantities of white braid. For its workmanlike qualities and its good style, I specially commend such an ensemble.

I'UAMATIC TOUCH I felt there should have been a proper stage setting for one of the evening, ensembles I saw —not on account of the dress itself, but because of the dramatic hood which accompanied it. The gown was black soft satin, moulder. to the figure to the hip line, whence it flowed out from groups of flat vertical tucks carried down for a matter of six inches or so. The manequin was tall and fair, and over her head she wore a hood of gold net which made a line background for the deep red satin roses sprinkled all over it. S.omething a little “different,” which might be reproduced at small cost by a clever amateur, to give new life lo a black theatre dress. Women are still including in their wardrobes a good many black, white and grey clothes, and debutantes, too ; favour white and grey frocks for dancing. I saw a very attractive frock at a dance recently, worn by a pretty girl who had medium brown hair and sufficient natural colour to carry off successfully the pearly grey tint of her tulle frock. This was fitted closely tc the figure to the knees and then aliowed to billow out in a foaming flounce to the ground. The fitted part

was made to sparkle by means of small silver sequins sewn on in tiny floral sprays, and in front of the corsage was a large shaded pink rose with a sequin centre. Silver sandals and a sequin fan—fans are in the news again—completed the moonlight sonata picture.—Diana Dane. EXERCISES FOR “LINE” These exercises require a little more than the usual effort. The first is called the “Rolling Log” and is splendid for moulding the body into beautiful lines.

1. Wearing a bathing suit, lie on the floor, arms over head, hands firmly clasped, feet together. Commencing on the right side, give a vigorous roll over, still keeping the feet and hands together, and land back in original position. After six rolls, relax completely and lie limply. Do six rolls from the left side. 2. The second exercise is called “The Lazy March,” a misleading title, for good effort is needed. Lie on the floor, the arms folded on the breast, legs stretched at full length. At one, give a sharp draw-back of the legs, bringing the knees up against the body. Commence, right leg first, to do a series of leg movements which resemble a march, each time bringing the knees well back to the body. Tramp, tramp, tramp. To repeat these words will help you to give good vigorous kicks forward into the air. Keep up the movements until you feel tired.

3. Stand, feet about twenty-four inches apart, hands overhead, finger tips touching. Bend the knees forward, taking care to keep the body as straight as possible and, taking arms down at back in one large circular movement, touch the back of the heels with the finger tips. Up and repeat twelve times.

4. Stand with the left leg raised, the foot having support on a closed door. The right leg must be straight at the knee and the toes pointed directly frontwards. Hands on hips, turn .from waist towards the left raised leg and bend from waist first backwards as far as possible, then over to the left knee, trying to touch the knee with the chin. Do twelve movements (back and forward) in all. Rest. ' DO YOU GET YOUR SHARE OF

Fun out of lif?? Or are you one of the people who seem to do nothing but work all the time? Make up your mind to get your share of pleasure,

even if it means making a little less money.

Good, wholesome food? Or do you care so little about meals that you eat anything when you happen to be hungry? Try to balance the diet and get full share of the necessary vitamins. Comfort? Do you enjoy the ease of a roomy armchair with a cushion behind your head? Such comfort should not be reserved for old and delicate folk only—everyone is entitled to it. Lucky breaks? If not, study the lives of those who are usually lucky and see if there is anything special which they do and you can copy. Things that really matter? Come forward to help yourself, because it is futile to hope that other people will dole out your share. Go out and grab it sometimes, or you may be left in the race. INVALID MILK JELLY To one pint of milk, allow the rind of half a lemon, an ounce of sugar and three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine. Cut the lemon rind very thinly and in small pieces. Put it, with the gelatine and milk, into a jug and leave for half an hour. Add the sugar, place the jug in a pan of boiling water and heat the contents, stirring continually, until the gelatine has dissolved. Continue to simmer for a minute—it must not boil, or it will curdle—remove from the stove, leave to cool, stir in two tablespoonsful of cream, strain into a moist mould and leave to set.

KITCHEN CORNER

SELECTED RECIPES Bottled Asparagus Wash and trim the asparagus into even lengths, put into a saucepan, heads up, cover with boiling water and cook for 15 minutes. Drain and arrange neatly in small jars, add one teaspoonful salt, and fill to the brims with cold water. Put on rubbers and cover parlially; put in wash-boiler and boil for 30 minutes; screw on the tops tightly; invert to lest for leakage. Salmon ancl Asparagus Pic (Iced or Hot Make a sauce of the following: I dessertspoon butter, - 1 big tablespoon flour (plain), 7 tablespoons liquid (milk and liquid from tin of solmon mixed), good pinch salt, pepper to taste. Melt the butter, add the flour and blend with wooden spoon off fire, cook for one minute, then add the liquid, and stir till it is thick and leaves the sides of saucepan. Mix this with a large tin of salmon, put in layers, a layer of this mixture, one of hardboiled eggs cut in rings, and a layer of tinned or fresh Vooked asparagus tips. Fill the dish with alternate layers, cover with breadcrumbs, and heat thoroughly in the oven. Serve hot or cold. If possible, bake this in individual dishes ready for serving. Asparagus with eggs Take some well cooked asparagus tips, half a cup of milk, 3 eggs and salt and pepper to taste. Scramble the eggs and add the asparagus cut into inch lengths. Serve on hot buttered toast. Asparagus Tips with Cheese Place some freshly boiled asparagus tips in melted butter. Lay them on slices of buttered toast, sprinkle with grated cheese and brown quickly under the griller.

Liver and Ham Pic Take one liver, jib ham, 1 large onion, 2 large potatoes, pepper and salt, sage, flour and stock. Cut the liver into slices, flour and season to taste. Parboil the onions, then mince onion and ham. Place slices of liver in a pie dish, then a layer of onions, ham and sage and continue layers till dish is almost full. Cover with stock. Boil and mash the potatoes and place on top and bake about three-quarters of an hour Breakfast Dish Skin and split saveloys. Roll each piece in a rasher of bacon and fiy. Serve hot. Marmalade Pudding 2oz of breadcrumbs, one grated lemon rind, 2oz of self-raising flour, loz of castor sugar, 2oz of chopped suet, one egg, 2oz of chopped mixed peel, one tablespoon of milk and two tablesooonfuls of marmalade. "Mix all dry ingredients. Add marmalade, egg and milk, adding ( moie milk if too stiff. Put mixture into greased basin. Cover with greased paper and steam for two hours. Serve with marmalade sauce or custard. Rhubarb Charlotte Butter a piedish, put in dessertspoonful moist sugar, which should have been melted over the fire in a little water. Then put a layer of bread and water, then a layer of finely sliced rhubarb, some more melted sugar, and repeat until the dish is full. Lemon Meringue Pudding 4oz bread or cake crumbs. 2oz fresh butter, 2oz castor sugar, 2 eggs, 4 pint milk, rind of 1 large lemon. Bring the milk to boiling-point, and pour over the crumbs; leave until cool, then with a fork mix in the butter, sugar, and grated lemon-rind. Separate yolks from whites, and stir llie yolks into the pudding mixture, beating the whites to a stiff meringue, ready for when the pudding has been cooked, when the meringue is piled on the top, sprinkled with sugar, and returned to the oven for just three minutes to set it firm. Time to bake the pfidding mixture, twenty minutes.

Leraon Dumplings

6oz grated suet, Boz fine bread crumbs. 4oz Demerara sugar, grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1 egg, 4 pint of milk. Pour the milk hot over the crumbs. When cool, beat in the suet, lemon-rind, rugar. and beaten egg, with a pinch of salt. Fill buttered cups, tie down with waxed pap-

or, cook in a steamer for an hour. Turn out and serve with a transparent sauce made with the lemonjuice, a little water, and butter, thickened with a teaspoonful of cornflour and sweetened with lump sugar. Plain Light Suet Pudding Simple and plain as this pudding is, there are few that arc nicer or more easily digested. Take Boz of flour, half s teasnoonful of baking-powder, quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and 4oz finely grated suet Mix thoroughly, and make into a stiff paste with cold milk. Put into a buttered mould that it will only three-parts fill. Cover with greased paper, then with plain paper tightly twisted round, steam for an hour and a half. Turn out, and eat with syrup or sweet sauce, with jam, or with gravy. Queen of Puddings 4oz bread or cake crumbs, 2oz fresh butter. 2oz castor sugar. 2. eggs. h pint of milk, a piece of lemon rind, pinch of salt. Boil the milk with the lemonrind, and pour boiling hot over the cake crumbs. Leave till cool, then remove the lemon, and beat in with a fork the butter, sugar, salt, and yolks of Ihe eggs. Pour into a small buttered pie-dish, bake until fi v m. and pale brown, then spread the top with apricot or other nice jam, and pile on this a meringue made with the whisked whites of the eggs, slightly sweetened. Bake five minutes longer. Raisins and Rice ->lt best rice, Mb stoned raisins, 1 pint milk, fresh or evaporated, 2oz sugar, ;j teaspoonful salt, spice to flavour. Two highly nourishing foods come together in this pleasant sweet. The rice should be well-cookc-d in Ihe milk, and if using evaporated milk add water to it in the proportion directed, add sugar, salt, and pinch of spice. Cook the rice until creamy, then put in the stoned raisins after cutting them if half. Simmer for several minutes: pile lightly in a dish and serve with fresh cream. The rice will take an hour to cook slowly. Date and Walnut Leaf 1 cup water; J cup dates. I cup sugar, loz butter. Bring to the boil and cool, then add U cups dour, 11 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon baking soda, and some chopped nuts. Bake 1 hour. This bread keeps nice and moist Queen Cakes Take jib margarine, .jib *.igar, 2 eggs, 6oz flour, 1 teasnoonful baking powder, 2oz currants, loz candied peel, grated lemon-rind, milk if necessary. Cream the butter and sugar together very thoroughly. Beat the eggs until frothy, and add. Stir in the flour and fruit alternatively and carefully. Half fill some queen-cake tins with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for ten to twenty minutes.

HOUSEHOLD HINTS

THINGS USEFUL TO KNOW

A slice or two of lemon added to the water in which clothes are boiled makes them a good colour.

Plums, greengages and damsons should be fully grown but not .quite ripe when required for jam-making.

Chocolate stains can be removed from washable fabrics by soaking them for half an hour in cold borax and water. Then pour boiling water through the stain and wash in the ordinary way.

Mend gloves with fine cotton, of the same shade if possible, but, anyhow, use cotton rather than silk, for it ip stronger and does not gleam, as silk does, thus drawing attention to the repair.

Ink stains on white material, if rubbed with salt and sprinkled with le-mon-juice and left for a short time will disappear. The garment should, be washed in the usual way after the stain is removed. Discoloured white •wood can be whitened by rubbing the stained parts with the lemon and allowing it to remain for about a quarter of an.hour, afterwards scrubbing in the usual way.