A Pace FOR Wcmen

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXX, 19 September 1936, Page 12

A Pace FOR Wcmen

SUITS 0? WOOL AND SILK

MORE LACE LINES GLOVES AND SHOES The well dressed English woman, like the chic Parisiennc, insists on having at least two neat suits in her wardrobe. With these she feels she can face any day time occasion looking her best. She will undoubtedly choose one of the new fine woollen materials, in black or navy blue, narrowly striped, may be, or dotted sparsely with small white spots. There are so many wool crepes, superfine flannels and supple suiting fabrics from which to select that there should be no difficulty on deciding upon the one which appears to be best suited to individual requirements. One of the best complements to the black coat and skirt is the trimly tailored waistcoat in chamois leather, or, if this seems too heavy, of dull crepe in the chamois yellow shade. Several designers stress this colour alliance, and there is no doubt that it is one of the most successful of the season. Add chamois gloves exactly to match the waistcoat, and a small hat again to tone, trimmed, perhaps, with a little ehou of black curled ostrich tips or simply black cure ribbon, and you have the outfit, par excellence for any “occasion” up to 7 o’clock in the evening. Shoes must, naturally, be black and the popular court shape with moderately high heels is voted the best style, although some women,

following the American lead, go in for laced shoes with rather square toes and low heels. It is claimed that they make large feet appear smaller, but I do not agree. At the same time, it must be admitted that, for walking, these severely practical shoes arc more comfortable than any others.

THE BLUES Navy blue holds its place in the affections of the woman who favours the tailored style. One of the neatest interpretations of the blue vogue I have seen lately was in soft, dull surfaced crepe with very small white spots embroidered, some six or seven inches apart, all over it. There was the usual piquant “little jacket” slightly flared from the waist and reaching only to the hips; there was the tightly fitted skirt which, however, gave freedom for movement - by. being slit at each, side and made with ample overlaps to obviate the rather ugly view of legs which many slit skirts give. A charming blouse of fine white lawn, elaborately tucked and cut quite close to the throat, with an upstanding pleated frill held by a band of narrow navy blue ribbon velvet, provided the correct and becoming completion of the ensemble. A little navy toque, with a stiffened eye veil and a small cluster of white gardenias in front, did its part in making the wearer one of the best dressed women at a well dressed gathering. Navy blue shoes, by the v/ay, were worn with the ensemble and flesh coloured silk stockings with a hint of gold in them.

Shantung is a good material to, choose for the second tailored suit, and admirable alternatives are alpaca in its newest and most supple form, dull satin, silk crepe, marocain, and organza. Any one of these will "tailor” perfectly and look as well at the end of a long day as at the beginning. I especially commend alpaca, which is crease resisting and nractically. dust proof, the surface heir ' such that even the grime ot a does not cling to it. Plain self coloured Shantung is practical because it can be laundered

, again and again and actually loon the • better for it. There are printed , versions, too, which tend to brighten . life and are equally obliging when it ■ comcsj.o washing day. I like plain shirt blouses with suits . of this description. The neat turnover collars and the pleated or tucked , ironts give a fresh, crisp effect whkh i no amount of embroidery or inset work can achieve. LINEN AND LACE The new linens are delightful. The fashion for using them for all kinds of clothes began very quietly with the little short jackets which became a craze, first in Paris and then in London. In its natural colour, the linen is used for these jackets to wear over frocks of dark coloured Shantung, crepe or linen. It is produced in many good shades, too, such as ricn : eel. primrose yellow, coo! green, blue, and tea brown. There are, also, some smart check patterns and these are excellent for jackets to go over dresses of unpatterned material. Linen lace is a favourite fabric for blouses, cravats, gloves and hat trimmings. A much admired ensemble seen recently was developed in dove grey linen and comprised skirt, jacket with pointed sleeves and rovers, and waistcoat. The hat also was made of the linen, while the neatly folded cravat, the long gloves and two small flowers on the chapeau were,white linen lace. A very successful outfit. TWO PURPOSES Talking of lacc reminds me of a quaint little frock I saw a few days ago. It had been designed for party afternoons and evenings. The material was white organza and on the skirt were large inset motifs of black lace. A small bolero of the lace was worn over the sleeveless bodice for day time occasions and this had puff sleeves finishing just above the elbows. It had also a small turn-over ! collar of the organza and a pleated | jabot, giving a quaint, Edwardian ef- ; feet to the ensemble. In the evening ; the bolero could be discarded, leaving a dainty white organza bodice to be I adorned with a cluster of real or artificial blossoms. Women who at one time would look at nothing but the finest kid or suede when choosing gloves now go over, occasionally, to the less expensive but equally good looking examples in crochet thread, linen lace and net. They are becoming to the hands and, in fine black lace for evening wear, are cooler than the finest kid. The

newest crochet ones in mercerised thread are worked in an open mesh and finished with gauntlets which look very much like pie frills. They are made in black, white, grey, natural, beige, and in shades to tone with most of the season’s favourite colours. — Diana Dane. IMPROVE THE WAISTLINE FOUR NEW EXERCISES Exercises specially designed for slimming the waist are so simple that they are liable to be overlooked in the search for something extravagant. The woman with a “set” figure will gain new suppleness by practising these faithfully each day.

Stand, feet about one yard apart, body bent forward from the waist, the arms hanging down in front, hands together with locked thumbs. Commencing at the right side, sweep the arms up as in the act of sweeping the floor immediately in front of toes, bending,-from waist over to the right side, bending the rigid; knee and keeping the left knee straight. The toes should be turned slightly outward. Bring the arms to the front again, take them up in a sweeping movement to left side, bend from waist over that side and bend left knee, keeping the right one straight. So, in one side sweeping movement, take the arms up with thumbs still locked, and bend body and knee over whichever side the arms are' taking. Keep up the movements for three minutes, then rest.

Stand, feet about twenty-four inches apart, toes slightly turned out, arms up at shoulder level and stretched out in front of body, thumbs locked together. Commencing right side, swing from waist round -this side as far as is possible with comfort, keeping the arms still at shoulder level as they swing round with the body. Bringing the arms back to front position, swing round to the left side as far as possible, still keeping arms up at shoulder level and the thumbs locked. Repeat, making one big sweeping movement from the waistline, right to left, back to.right and so.on, for three minutes. Rest.

Stand, feet one yard apart, arms right up overhead and thumbs locked together. Bend from waist over to the right side, bt.it keep'the body and head turned frontwards the whole time. Pr fjjr.as. possible with ease. Come up into original position, bend

from waist over to the left side, keeping head and shoulders turned frontwards still. Repeat twelve times each side.

effort —a vigorous swing and a high i reach. The foot on whichever side the arms are reaching up should take the weight of the body, leaving the other foot to be slightly raised on the toes.

TRAVEL ETIQUETTE ABROAD Most of us, when travelling in our our country,'conform without thinking to the rules of etiquette to which we have grown accustomed. People in other countries, when using the railways, are also accustomed to a certain procedure, which Britishers often do not follow out ot sheer ignorance, thus bringing down unmerited unpopularity upon themselves.

In Britain, the person occupying the corner right-hand seat is at liberty to adjust tine window as he likes. In France and certain other European countries, no alteration of atmosphere is possible without the agreement of every passenger. The guard is bound to uphold the objection of one disgruntled individual who may refuse to have the window opened on a broiling day even though the other passengers are half fainting with heat.

When boarding a train in Germany, be sure to disposerof your luggage on the portion of the rack directly above your scat, or under that portion of the seat itself —and nowhere else. You have only the right, to this particular length of the luggage rack in a country where most people take their luggage into the carriage to avoid the registration fees necessary if the van is used. Articles spread about elsewhere will make you exceedingly unpopular with fellow travellers. MONEY MATTERS Bo sure. too. not to bury travellers’ cheques or bankers’ letter of credit low down in a suit case. Since the new currency restrictions. an . inspector cornes aboard at the frontier and asks the passengers how much money they have with them, often demanding to see it. The sum will be marked at the back of your passport so that the amount you may take out again can be unchecked, just in case _ you should be depriving any country ' of its hoarded gold. On a fairly long journey in Europe it is customary to shed insular prejudice against speaking with

strangers and to enter into the conversation going on around—if it should happen to be in a known language. If not, people arc sure to bob up, anxious to improve their English. Let them! On leaving the carriage, try to emulate those other travellers who. on departing earlier, gave a pleasant bow and a smile to those whose company they shared for several hours. It is considered only politeness in Europe, where the legend of the British national reserve has quite good foundation.

WHOLESOME COOLING DRINK This lemonade is especially useful, being refreshing, cleansing and good for the blood. Blanch half an ounce of pearl barley, boil a pint of water, add the barley and the rind of a lemon, and simmer gently for half an hour. Sweeten to taste, add the juice of two lemons and an orange, strain through muslin and leave to become ice cold.

KITCHEN CORNER

SOME SELECTED RECIPES Sweet Stuffed Prunes Three dozen prunes, 1 gill of. cream, 1 tablespoon chopped walnuts, 1 tablespoon preserved ginger (chopped small), 1 tablespoon icing sugar, squeeze of lemon juice. Select large soft prunes and remove stones. Whip cream and add all the other ingredients. Fill the prunes with the mixture, and place a tooth-pick in each. Prune Cocktail Savoury Ingredients: Stewed prunes, stuffed

(dives, bacon rashers. Soak prunes overnight, then slew till lender. Drain them, remove stones, and place a stuffed olive iu each. Remove bacon rind, roll each prune in a thin slice, secure with a wooden skewer, then cook in a moderate oven. Serve very hot, garnished with sprigs of parsley. Prune and Cheese Savoury Stowed prunes, grated cheese, mayonnaise dressing, lettuce. Cook prunes till soft, but not broken. Drain and allow to cool, then remove stones:. Mix some grated cheese with thick mayonnaise, adding extra seasoning to taste (such as a little mixed mustard). Put some of the filling in each prune, and push a devilled almond into each. Serve on crisp lettuce leaves. Cream cheese is excellent for stuffing dessert prunes. Mash grated cheese witlj a liUlc blitter, fresh cream, mixed mustard. pepper and salt to a thick consistency. Place a little.pf the mixture on tiny cheese biscuits, push a stoned nruno into it, and put devilled almond I in top of each. Baked Date Custard i Bread, butter, dates, nutmeg, one ’ pint milk, one egg. one tablespoon and j a half sugar. Spread thin slices of ; bread with butter. Butter a piedish. i and cover the bottom with bread and ; butter. Cover with stoned dates. Add another layer of bread and butter, cover with dates, and continue thus until piedish is nearly full. Beat egg and sugar together. Add to the milk, ' and pour over the bread. Grate nut- : meg on top. Stand in a tin of water, j and bake in a moderate oven till set. Kidney ami Kumara Pie Mince finely 4 sheep's kidneys. Stew for 1 hour with 1 breakfast cup of I water, a small chopped onion, i tea-; •spoon ground cinnamon and mustard mixed, one or two leaves of thyme and sage to season, salt and pepper to teste. Remove from the pan and place in a piedish with Alb of cooked, sliced kumaras on the lop. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, and add a few pieces of dripping to brown the top. Bake in a moderate oven for half-an-hour. I Kidneys and Bacon Three sheeps’ kidneys, 6 slices bacon, 1 teaspoon flour, pepper and salt. Skin j the‘kidneys, split and lightly pepper them, then lay each kidney flat bc-

ween two slices of bacon. Place in ; taking dish in a hot oven for 2( ninutes. Place each piece on a square T toast, and keep hot. Make a thicl ravy by adding flour and boilinf vatcr to the hot fat. Boil and poui iver kidneys. Serve hot. Curried Macaroni Break 3oz macaroni into inch lengths, boil in plenty of salted water until tender, drain in colander; fry two chopped onions in two desertspoons butter a light brown, then add one chopped apple, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 desertspoon curry powder, 2 tablespoons of desiccated coconut, half-teaspoon mustard and the juice of one lemon. Mix all well together, pour in one cup stock or water. Stir until it boils; add one cup milk, one tablespoon grated cheese and the macaroni. Simmer gently 20 minutes. Serve surrounded with sippets of toast. Liver and Carrot Pie Take a casserole with a lid, and line the bottom of it with slices of bacon, thinly cut rounds of carrot, and a little chopped onion if liked. Cut up a sheep’s liver—flour, pepper, and salt it, then lay it on the bed of bacon, carrot, etc. Cover well with a few more bits of bacon, more sliced carrot, and pour in 1 cup of cold gravy or stock, or water, then put on the lid. Have a hot oven just at first, then finish cooking slowly. Time required, from :} tc 1 hour. Oyster Squares First make a white sauce. Beard and chop up j cup oysters. J cup minced bacon, a little butter, 1 teaspoonful of pepper and salt. Add ingredients to the sauce and simmer for 5 minutes. Make a short pastry. Roll out thin and place mixture when cold between. Cook on over slide until golden brown. Cut into squares when

GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP

cold and serve. These arc really delicious and something new. Campers’ Salad Grate two apples, small onion, one carrot, and a littie celery; add pepper and salt to taste; mix \ teaspoon oi mustard with one tablespoon .of vinegar; add two tablespoons of sugar; whip .} cup of cream thick. Then mix altogether. This is vpry nice with any cold meats and no trouble to prepare. J Afternoon Tea Rusks Four breakfastcups of flour, 3 break-

faslcup of sugar. jib of butter, 2 tea f spoonfuls baking powder and a little j milk. Add the sugar to the flour, rut j in the butter, add the baking powder i well mix. Lastly add the 2 eggs, wel' | beaten and sufficient milk to make j into a soft paste. Do not make it toe I seft. Roll out to half inch thickness ( and cut into rounds with a pastry j cutter. The baking is the difficult part, | Whatever number of rounds your ■ baking tin holds, put only half the number on. Bake in a moderate oven. 1 When partly cooked( they must be a j brown on top) cut them through ■ the centre, and put them middles ! downward. Mow bake until the part j next to the tin is a golden brown. You | will then have a delicious rusk, Which j will keep for weeks in an air-tight tin. Spread butter on when serving. I Apple Short Cake i I Quarter pound butter, Jib sugar, Jib flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 egg, 2 cups thick apple sauce. Cream butter and sugar. Add beaten egg. Sift in flour and baking powder. Roll out, cut in 2 pieces, spread with apple sauce. Place layer on top, and cook in moderate oven. Raspberry Shortbread Cream jib of butter and J cun of sugar, add 1 egg and beat well, then stir in 11 cups of flour to make a stiff dough, spread on a swiss roll tin and cover with raspberry' jam. Beat 1 egg lightly with cup cf sugar, and 1 cut) of • desiccated coconut; spread ever the jam and bake in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes. Leave Until cold, then cut into squares. Brown Coconut Cake | Cream jib butter with jib sugar J add 2 eggs. Beat well, then add 2 tablespoons milk, 1 tablespoon cocoa and 2 tablespoons desiccated cocoanut. Stir in jib flour well sifted with 1

teaspoon of baking powder and bake in hot oven in shallow dish for about i hour. Ice with 3 tablespoons of icing sugar and 1 tablespoon butter,, flavoured with essence to taste. Sprinkle with chopped almonds and cocoanut.

HOUSEHOLD HINTS THINGS USEFUL TO KNOW A lump of soda dissolved in the blue water when washing clothes will prevent any blue stain from remaining on the garment.

Embroidery hoops are useful for stretching table linen when boiling water is to be poured through stains.

A good way to get rid of spiders is to take pieces of cotton wool, saturate them with oil of pennyroyal, and place these in their haunts.

Keep a small bottle of iodine in the house and apply a little to every cut, bruise or scratch that anyone in the house receives. This helps to prevent any harmful results.

To enable picked roses to retain their freshness for a longer period, remove the bark for about four inches up the stem, and divide the wood thus exposed into quarters. When placed in the container, the frayed end ensures a maximum of water reaching the flowers.