1 THE GARDEN

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXX, 19 June 1936, Page 3

1 THE GARDEN

THINGS TO BE DONE THE VEGETABLE PLOTS Although not much actual planting can be done at the present time, the amateur can find plenty of small job,; round about his garden. Fallen leaves can. be gathered, roses and small fruit bushes pruned, borders trimmed, and weeds kept down. As a matter of fact an ardent gardener need never be at a loss to utilise his spare moments. Pack up and place away in a dry corner all tomato and runner- bean sticks. Do not let them remain in the ground, as they soon rot off at the ends. Late-planted celery should now be finally enrtbed-up, while the soil should be drawn up to leeks as they advance in growth. Lettuce should be sown now in all gardens with light soil. They may be rather slow at first, but they will pick up speed as the season advances. If the mint bed requires to be renewed,- take up convenient-sized clumps and plant in new ground.

Attend to earthing-un cabbage, cauliflower and other colworts, drawing the soil up on either side so as to form a ridge. . Slugs are liable to be troublesome on all seedling crops at this period. Dusting with lime, soot, or powder will keep the pests in check. Like all other vegetables, eschalots like a fresh site every year, but it is possible to produce splendid eschalots by growing them each year on the same bed, provided the ground is deeply dug and manured. Planting is done as near mid-wniter as possible; and only- the -biggest, best and healthiest of the single “cloves” are used for ■ planting. It is possible foi eschalots to' deteriorate yearly unless this extra careful selection is practised, or “new blood ’ is introduced by the planting of “cloves” bought specially or procured from a successful neighbour. None of these things will ward off that very troublesome disease which often results in n wretched crop—black spots near the bottom of the eschalot—but hand-pick your planting eschalots with a keen eye for the tell-tale black spots and burn all that are tainted. Discard also any that feel soft to the touch. You must plant this year’s batch on a fresh piece of soil if that disease was evident on the last lot.

Make a sowing of winter spinach. Thin the plants to stand Bin apart. The thinnings, can be used for culinary purposes. Ground not required for immediate use should be sown down in oats or lupin? for digging in. Radishes may be sown in light soil. The soil must be rich or the radishes will be very small. This is a -good time to make new beds of rhubarb. Deep trenching is essential. A good rich soil is also required and plenty of stable manure should bo added to the soil. If stable manure is not obtainable, add plenty of bonedust and some sulphate of potash to the soil when trenching. Later on, when the plants are growing applications of superphosphate 4oz to the square yard, and nitrate of soda loz to the ' square yard should be applied two or three times a year. Sow early peas and broad beans. Plant cabbage and cauliflower. The herb bed can be lifted and replanted. This is necessary to keep it tidy, as many of the plants like thyme, sage, marjoram, mint are inclined to grow straggly and untidy. The following root crops may be still set if the ground is at all workable: Carrots, beet, onions. Green crops such as spinach, silver beet, lettuce, parsley, cabbage, cauliflower, mustard and cress must bo sown at once. : , A few rows of early-sown onions may be planted for early use. In planting, shorten back the tops, particularly any of the tops that arc over sin or Gin, otherwise they are liable to wilt, so that root action is checked. Potato onions should be planted out without delay or they will begin to rot. They do not keep too well any later than this. ’MIDST THE FLOWERS

The winter varieties of sweet peas should be well advanced in growth and need a little regulating and tying up. A light dusting of manure is also beneficial. It is advisable in old shrubberies to dig the ground even' if some roots have to be severed, as a certain amount of loose soil must be about the plants. The digging especiady on the edges where small plants are to be grown cannot be done too thoroughly. As the digging proceeds all waste tops of spent growth should be dug under, not all in one place, but a little at a time. The herbaceous plants that need reducing in size should be attended to as the digging proceeds. Bouvardias that have completed flowering should, with the exception of the variety Hubaldi Vorymbiflora, be cut back to within 6in of the surface. Where heavy frosts occur, cover the plants with some litter. Gladioli corms should be set from now onward. Where room is limited select only the best varieties. Dig the soil deeply and plant bulbs m sunny spots. Lily bulbs such as Chiisln,as .lily, belladonna and tiger lily, may be set at once. These like a semi-sheltered position where the sun is not too hot in the summer months. Lily of the valley corms may be planted in a sheltered, damp place. Stocks should be planted now, especially in light land. Othei hardy annuals also may be planted. Primula malacoides, Iceland poppies, and nemesias may be given a weak stimulant of liquid manure when they show buds. A light top-dressing ot “super” or nitrate of soda may be used sparingly. Early cuttings or rooted suckers ot chrysanthemums may be taken on and placed in shallow trays to root and establish to provide plants for bedding out next October. Cuttings grown under cool conditions furnish the best plants. Pansies are general favourites, ana being very hardy are suitable for present planting. Violas may also bo planted as border or edging plants. Plant the main lot ol cinerarias. U they are given plenty of room, a foot

each way at least, they will grow into better plants and have better blossoms. If caterpillars are troublesome (ns they nearly always are with cinerarias) spray with arsenate of lead. This will check them at once. Double-flowered daisies are hardy and very showy edging plants that should be planted at once. They succeed in damp, heavy soils that are unsuitable for most other bordering plants. Shrubs that are to be pruned should be attended to. .Tf this is done now it will prevent walking on the soil after it has been dug. Only such trees as are grown for their foliage should be pruned now. Spring flowering shrubs should be left until they have flowered. All fallen leaves should, of course, be turned in. This should be done to put as much back in the sqil as possible.