NEW TAILORED SUITS

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXX, 13 June 1936, Page 10

NEW TAILORED SUITS

UMBRELLA SLEEVES

braid, bows and buckles The tailored suit as we know it—the jacket as severely plain as a mans coat — will.never be out of fashion, for it is too useful and smart to be superseded by anything else. All the same, there are signs that the severity may be somewhat relieved by small feminine touches of trimming which make the outfit kinder than the “no nonsense” type to some women. The vogue for white pique and muslin has something to do with the change, these materials being employed in numerous cases to give a cleancut, fresh line to collars, revers and cuffs, and to make quite imposing buttonholes. As revers are deep this season, a considerable expanse of white is seen, which is all to the good on the black,, dark grey and dark blue suits that are still being worn. Most of the coats remain short. Some, as I mentioned last week, have dipping' backs, others have the basque line, others are made full from the waist by means of inset godets. The best of all, perhaps, are those which are just hip length, with square cut fronts and semi-fitting backs. This is a line which can be worn successfully by most women, but if the short jacket seems unkind to the fuller figure there is always the loose coat which has a full swing and is threequarters length, this, naturally, does not come under the strictly “tailored” suit heading although, with a skirt as slim as may be for the individual figure, it lacks nothing in smartness. The fashion for braid on suits of all kinds persists and now the braid is wider. and used in more novel ways than merely to outline collars, revers and cuffs. A model I like very much is developed in black dull-surfaced crepe, the skirt cut in six shaped panels and the jacket on lines reminiscent of the Russian tunic. There is no collar, the coat buttons a little to one side right up to a round neck line, and the sleeves, are the new “um-

brella” shape, three-quarters length only. Black .silk braid finishes all edges and also outlines the umbrella shaped tops of the sleeves. To make dp for the shorter sleeves, there are gloves with deep gauntlets made of the braid. The effect is good and would be equally successful in grey or one of the subdued violet-blues of the moment. While oil the subject of coats, I should mentioh the continued craze, for little evening, jackets and boleros. It is difficult to find an evening dr.ess now which has not its complementary “top piece” and this, although the dress itself may be even on the fussy side, is smartly tailored. A dress of “moon” white lace* adorned in front of the corsage with a large cluster of purple and white violets, was accompanied at a dance a few nights ago by a short jacket in deep purple lacquered satin. It, was scarcely hip length and at the back there was fluting fullness suggestive of a bustle. A stand-up collar, cut petal fashion, developed into cascading revers, both collar and revers faced with white satin, and small puff sleeves were gathered into gauged bands. SMART BLOUSES Blouses are other items of the wardrobe which seem firmly established. Some are very neatly tailored, like men’s shirts, and finished with trim ties or bows. The large “artist” bow is returning to favour and iends a pleasant finish to country and holiday clothes. Other blouses, more “dressy,” are made of finely pleated crepe, satin or muslin. They are delightful, but hardly economical on account of cleaning charges. Ruffles finish the necklines of certain models, medici collars have returned and look extremely well with the elegant silk suits which women wear at weddings. Striped and spotted materials, and those printed with conventional, floral or “amusing” patterns, are used for blouses to go with plain silk or wfcol suits. When printed material is chosen tor the suit itself, an unpatterned \ ;use is better style. Box pleats are liked by some designers and I have seen a coat frock in fine navy blue serge box pleated down its entire length, the pleats stitched and pressed so flat to within a few inches of the hem that there is no suggestion of bulkiness. On this model, by the way, a belt of patent

leather in scarlet and black Harlequin pattern made a successful appearance.

MODERN MILLINERY While some modistes insist on keeping to the simple line, others flutter away from it, except where sports and country hats are concerned. The black hat we have always .with us and, naturally, it is more in evidence in

the collections, than models in other colours. The white hat is more difficult to wear and to keep clean and fresh, so it is not so popular. In any case the “off white” shades are preferred by most women, ; who find them kinder to the complexion. Bonnet shapes are piquantly attractive in some of the coarser lacquered straws and, when trimmed with demure bunches of flowers in natural colourings, look very well as frames for young faces. The bowler will remain for the whole of the season. I am assured, arid this shape is specially good with the tailored suits we have been discussing. The bonnet is the ideal accompaniment to the suit which has a coat featuring the basque or the fluted bustle-like back.

•v'kost hats-have their veils and here colour, schemes can be cleverly worked! out. . On black models veils of various colours —chiefly purples, orchid Shades, lilac and lavender at present —are used as the. chief x trimming motifs. Full length ones go on bowlers, nose length ones on the becoming .little boat shapes, and short eye veils on berets and the new shallow mushroom shapes. Evening caps flaunt their veils, too, and there is a cleftriite.sheikh influence in the long veil .which is bound round the head with a jewelled band and left to float over, the shoulders, giving a marvellous background for the coiffure. Most of the hat veils are tied in important bows at the back and thede bows in themselves supply all the trimming necessary in many cases. Bows; in fact, are staging a come back. On some “period” dresses I noticed them set at regular intervals down the front from neck to hem. Narrow black ! ribbon velvet “bracelets” fastened with press studs under tiny bows with jewelled centres, have a magical effect oh white arms. Evening gloves also have miniature bows sewn down their ■ entire length, and the latest “simple” hair bandeau is a plait made of twisted silver or gold tissue tied on top with a bow.

Buckles are likewise in the fashion picture. Often a frock in one of this season’s dark colours is brightened and made distinguished by the simple means of fastening the belt with an unusual buckle. Dressmakers use buckles, also, to hold the draperies of classic evening gowns. Milliners use them on hats reminiscent .of the “good old days,” and shoe-makers sew them on to smart day shoes and, set with •synthetic jewels, on evening and boudoir slippers.—Diana Dane. THE MODERN VENUS The new models are not all so easy to wear as they are to look at, and it is generally agreed that they demand a good figure. A good figure, like Truth, is in the eye of the beholder, and, though we read that curves are in fashion, dressmakers still design for figures which are youthfully slim. For centuries the measurements of the Venus de Milo were the standard by which a woman’s figure was judged, but she is no longer the modern ideal. Her measurements, .it will be re-

membered are—height, 5 feet 5 inches; bust, 37 inches; hips, 38 inches; waist, 26 inches. Artists still say that a physically perfect woman should be from 5 feel 3 inches to 5 feet 7 inches tall. She should weigh between 3 stones 5 pounds and 10 stones according to height, and her waist should be from 22 to 27 inches. Her bust should measure from 28 to 36 inches and her hips, eight inches wider, should be in a' straight line vertically with the shoulders. . ( Though perfect from the artists point of view, this silhouette would fail to please the fashion expert who would demand slimmer hips and a slight reduction in weight. According to Earl Carroll, America’s revue producer, the modern Venus is 5 feet 7 inches in height, weighs 8 stones 13 pounds, measures 35 inches round the hips and bust, and 25 inches round the waist. LESSONS IN DEPORTMENT Even if the tape measure proves that your measurements fall short of perfection, a graceful figure can be attained by means of posture, diet, exercise and clever corsetry. The art of standing and sitting gracefully, if acquired in youth, is guaranteed to develop a beautiful figure, and even in later life the figure can be enormously improved by correcting an ugly posture. A lesson in deportment from an expert would prove a good investment, and a physical culture course is worthy of consideration.

Freak diets and reducing menus should only be adopted with the consent of a doctor, but food should be eaten slowly and chewed thoroughly. Salads, vegetables and fruit should take the place of starchy dishes, rich cakes and sweets. Hot water with a dash of lemon can be taken night and morning with advantage. A few exercises, performed regularly each day, will do much to improve the figure. Touching the toes, lyfng on the back and pretending to cycle, turning from the waist, and “mountain climbing” are among those which usually produce the most rapid results. Buy a gramophone record which not only teaches the exercises, but supplies appropriate music, and the words of command, and you will be half-way to possessing a lovely figure. Pay attention to corsets. If you have never been fitted with a good corset, you cannot guess what beauty can be coaxed into the lines of your figure. Corsetry is a fine art and there is no figure which cannot be moulded into more graceful curves with the clever use of one-way and two-way stretch materials. WAFFLES Waffles are a delicious form of pancake and can be served at tea time or as a pudding with syrup or jam. Sift half a pound of flour twice and add to it a pinch of salt and the grated ring of a lemon. Beat the yolks of two eggs and mix these and threequarters of a pint of milk smoothly with the flour. Whisk the egg whites to a stiff froth and add them and a pinch of baking powder to the butter. Heat and grease a waffle iron, pour in a small quantity of batter at a time and fry a golden brown on both sides. Waffle irons are easily obtainable in any good household stores and are now very inexpensive.