OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXX, 28 March 1936, Page 10

OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

furbelows

EARLY DRESS NEWS SLENDER SIMPLICITY One v two of tlio first early dross Shows having taken place, it is now possible to hazard an opinion on the general trend of fashion'this season Taking the examples of two ot the foremost English designers as illustrating the mode, it appears that sleek simplicity is the object of the who must be in the advance guard as it were, of the fashion parade. In the first collection, which is chiefly toi

women of leisurely life, the models give the impression of having been actually moulded on the figures of the manno-’ quins. Ko slim and slinky are they that it is, as first, a matter of surprise that they could have been put on without "'tearing. But the practical “lightning” fasteners solve the problem, in colours which exactly match the dress materials. Most of the evening gowns have small trains and all are ground length. There are few r very low corsages, even those which arc cut deeply at the back being draped in classic lines almost to the throat in front. Long, tight sleeves are features, too, of the-ultra-modern dinner gov.n. In the same collection arc day and sports clothes which go to the other extreme as regards length, for they arc almost as short as those we wore several years ago, but still slim. An attractive house gown in reseda green silk fabric, is fitted smoothly to the figure, draped about the neckline with an oyster white crepe scarf —scarves, by the way. are very important this season—and fastened from high neck to hem at the hack witli small green buttons, rather like boot buttons on a slightly larger scale. For out of doors, there is a trim little .suit in blue and white striped crepe, the skirt short and slender, the jacket—not quite hip length —severely ■tailored and finished with white Peter Pan collar and cuffs.

Another walking ensemble comprises a plain, tailored dress, very fresh looking with a white collar, white belt and white flap to the skirt pocket, and a loose short jacket, without collar hut with white cuffs.

Speaking of coats and skirts, it seems certain that some of the designers, at any rate, have decided to retain tlie jacket and skirt ensemble for dinner time wear. I was attracted by one in black taffetas, the skirt accordion pleated, the jacket tailored, with modified leg o’mutton sleeves, diamante button links, slight fluting fullness'helow the. waist and a pleated white chiffon scarf by way of collar. There was something piquantly inconsequent about this outfit, the tailor note and the floating one pleasantly combining to produce the effect. This was one model which did not adhere strictly to the “fitted” line decreed for this season —and was the more interesting, perhaps, for being different SHIRRING AND BUTTONS Several gowns arc shirred, some in centre front only, some both back and front, others at one side. A day dress of Indian blue silk crepe lias the bodice shirred from nock to waist at the left side and fastened with a close row of tiny buttons, covered with the crepe. The skirt looks tight, lmt is made comfortable for walking with two pleats which continue the line at the side. Loose, threequarters length sleeves are

caught up with more rows of shirring and trimmed with more little buttons. Among the rest gowns—those delightful garments which can be worn at tea time and throughout an evening spent at home —the vogue for shirring is especially notable. One, in pale ! coral coloured heavy crepe, is swathed to the front by means of the tiny gathering of stitches. It lias loose v.'ng-’ikc sleeves ami a draped collar iif coffee colour lace tied with silk ribbon in tlie same shade. SPORTSWOMEN Colour is introduced, with great success, into the sports clothes of another designer. There is a dashing look

about some of the models, inspired. I suspect by the Argentine. Tufted materials arc used a good deal and tweeds of very light weight are equalled in practical attractiveness by striped woollen fabrics which show dark lines on light grounds. Scarves and blouses are as varied in colour a-s they are in design and tin* new printed knitted silk, which is . a speciality of the house, is used b»both, it is good, this silk, and the colours in which it is produced ara gorgeous. There are unusual alliances, as, for example, deep flame, rich blue and subdued grey, exquisitely blended and offering the complete answer to the accusation that we are apt to "go drab", when it comes to choosing practical clothes. Pockets are treated as trimmings in certain suits. Sometimes one is placed in front of the skirt; sometimes there are four— two on the skirt and two. on the jacket. Even house and walking dresses have important pockets which must not, however be used for anything more bulky than a handkerchief, for they are essential to the line and have, to lie kept quite flat. COLOUR NOTES To return to colour —contrasts which, at one time, we might have regarded with suspicion, have proved quite acceptable and charming. With a day dress in a rich ruby red shade, for instance, is worn a wide belt of Indian blue leather. Blue, parma violet and purple are combined in a draped evening ensemble which again illustrates Oie vogue for swathing and shirring. Blue and violet, the latter as trimming are used for this gown, die deeper purple tone for the coat. The season will be an interesting one from many points of view. There are certain to be crazes for costumes of other nations and period gowns, the

Victorian mode, recently illustrated very beautifully on the stage, having alroadv made a successful re-entry into the soli erne or things in the dress world —Diana Dane. MADAME DE MAINTENON (1635-1719) BY RALPH DULIN Constant d’Aubigne, profligate and adventurer, was in prison together with iiis wife when their fourth child was born. Franeoise by name, she was destined to become virtual Queen of Fiance. Incapable of their duties, the parents entrusted her to an aunt, who reared her tenderly in the Protestant j faith. Franchise never afterwards met the unselfish devotion she was offered in this home. ; Her trials began when she was transferred to a, Catholic branch of the family. Treated now as a servant, she was naturally slow to adopt the creed of her new guardian. The hardships of these years developed in her a firm and sober "character. She had need of all her resolution when, at fifteen, she was urged to enter a convent. She found an escape by marrying the poet, Scarron. The role of wife to a notorious rake was a difficult one,, but she filled it with such tact and charm that soon the friends who came, to ap plaud her husband’s wit were 'replaced by the most distinguished society of Paris. This nominal marriage, while it could not make Franeoise happy, introduced her to the Court she was one day to govern. Her elegance and beauty shone in contrast to her husband's grotesque appearance. Especially did tlie world admire the flashing black eyes which animated her whole expression. The more discerning noted the composure uf her face and the austerity of her vigorous mind. Accordingly, when Scarron died, the penniless young widow was found a confidential post at Court. Louis XIV had neglected his Queen for a scries of favourites of whom tlie latest was the fascinating Madame do Moiitospan. Franeoise was placed in charge of the Montespaii nursery. • Arrogant, as he ! was, tlie Monarch could not guess that i this quiet woman, whose presence ill I the household made him a little uneasy. had imagined herself divinely

••ailed to reform him. Slowlv, lie grew to appreciate her qualities. Montespan nff.nr a reign of 20 years, was dismissed, and Louis desired that- Franeoise. now Mine, de Mainteuon, should succeed her. Insi cad. .site iiersuaded him to become reconciled with the Queen. When the Queen died. Mine, de Maiuteiion would consent only to an authorised position beside the King, and Louis was comj pel led to offer her marriage. the secret marriage Her influence was openly exerted 1o jmrifv the corrupt Court. It must bo. confessed (hat the pieties l.ouis now observed were mainly formal and that, essentially, his character was unchanged, He continued the wars of aggression. tlie lavish festivities and 111? iwrsceution of the industrious Protesj Quits, policies which combined to ruin Franco. Despite tlie slanders of her

enemies. Mine, de Maintenon had no part in this fatal policy. Louis XIV shared with nobody the government of his realm. Tier greatest achievement was the foundation at St. Cvr of a school for (lie daughters of impoverished gentlemen. Teaching was a passion with her, and iu all its details this famous school was planned and supervised by Mine", de Muint cimti. [■fere, when Louis died, she retired to end her days, 'they were clouded with anxieties, for the new regime"cut off her pensions, and her resources wore taxed to support the school. She passed invnv, surrounded by the pupils who had adored her. Her memory gives some nobility to that age of insolent self-indulgence. CANDLE LIGHT Kenaisianee gowns and the period trend in furniture have brought caudle light back into fashion. Old candle sticks are being polished up and, in brass and silver, decorate the smart dinner table. Wood and wrought iron are even more popular and harmonise better in the modern room than the brighter metals. A candle stand is an idea borrowed from churches. It consists of a tall standard carrying a group of upright candle holders'. Placed in the corner of a room or hall, it forms a most effective decorative piece. Sconces, of modern and antique design, are much in favour at present and both real and electric candles can be uscu in them. Here again, wrought iron is largely employed. At a recent lighting exhibition, wrought iron sconces, fitted with scarlet candles, were a feature of a black and white room. Modern candles neither drip nor gutter. They are manufactured with a hard outer film that burns a little more slowly than the inner wax and. in consequence. the wick burns steadily iu a cun shaped hollow. Scarlet and crimson are the favourite candle colours, closely followed by amber and orange. Striped candles arc new and amusing, reminiscent of sticks of candy, while for special occasions there are some beautiful fluted and embossed designs, FRYING HINTS There is no more unappetising sight than badly fried food. Some cooks complain of the difficulty of frying perfectly in deep fat. In most cases the food being fried is too greasy or, on the other hand, is often found to he insufficiently cooked on the inside. Food without a natural coating must be given one to get perfect frying results. Egg and breadcrumbs or fine Hour are the most satisfactory coatings. The fat must he heated until a faint blue smoke rises from it and all bubbling has ceased. Do not make the mistake of thinking the fat is ready when it appears to be boiling. It is not until all movement lias ceased that it has reached the correct temperature. Food should be fried one piece at a, time, as to prevent the fat from cooling.

SPECIAL REMEDIAL EXERCISES

(By a Masseuse) AN INTRODUCTION Three thousands years before the birth of Christ, the Chinese had a perfect. system of gymnastics. They maintained that exercises promoting circulation produced a harmonious sense of well-being in the human body. Not only did they use exercises to maintain health, hut from each of tlie natural positions they placed the body and limbs in certain derivative positions which modified the flow of organic fluids and were important in case of disease. The Hindoos, too, had a fine knowledge of the importance of bodily exercises, but their priests accompanied instruction with incantations, thus leading the masses to believe tlie whole business was just magic. The first people to recognise gymnastics as an institution were the Greeks, Both philosophers and physicians in Ancient Greece recommend bodily exercises. Plato cveh divided" gymnastic into active and passive movements and highly recommended the latter. Some Greek physicians were themselves in fitructors 'but the chief teachers of the art were a class apart and were given f ile, name of Padotribes. Rome imitated Greece to a certain extent, being particularly partial to callisthenics. In the Middle Ages, the gymnastics of ail earlier period were more or less forgotten, but in the fit* teentli and sixteenth centuries the best physicians again became interested in gymnastics and recommended their use, MEDICAL GYMNASTICS In the earlier part of the nineteenth century a medical system of gymnastics came into vogue embodying: movements based on action between op oral nr and patient Tlie Swede, Ling, at this time evolved the first -scientific system of remedial medical gymnastics in Europe. In talking of medical or remedial gymnastics, it should he remembered Unit there are differences between the exercises of games, riding, walking and dancing In dancing, for instance, the girl who is an enthusiast will have well developed muscles in her legs and, unless she resert.s to some special exercise. hej- arms will not he in proportion to her logs. People whose occupation is of a sedentary nature usually have an ili developed muscular system but, unless they exercise carefully, systematically and with knowledge, they may injure themselves or develop one set of : muscles at the expense of anothei. So. in system which have been planned by experts, movements are arranged in such a way as to benefit all parts of the body and are based upon anatomy and physiology. The aim is to keep in good order a naturally fit body or to restore to health those suffering from disorders. In a. series of articles T hope to dcsnilie simple exercises which will be of benefit where special gymnastics are required.

KITCHEN CORNER

EASTER RECIPES Buns Sift a half-pound of flour into a basin, make a. well in the centre and rub in with the fingers two ounces of margarine. Add two tablespoonfuls of currants, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, half a teaspoonful each mixed spice and cinnamon, a generous pinch each of salt and pepper, and mix well. Boat one egg to a stiff froth, adding a tiny pinch of salt to make it beat stiffer. together with sufficient milk to make a fairly stiff dough. Turn oil to a floured board, work well with the bands, and divide into about a dozen pieces. Roll into balls between floured hands, flatten each slightly oil top, arrange in a floured tin and brush with a well-beaten egg. Easter Cakes Beat 3oz butter to a cream, add a similar quantity of castor sugar, (luz of flour, and 2oz of clean, dry currants. Mix all to a stiff paste with a wellbeaten egg, knead lightly till smooth and free from cracks, then roll out on a floured board to rather less than quarter of an inch in thickness. Cut out in rounds about Tin in diameter and place tlie cakes on a greased tin. Bake in a moderate oven about 15 minutes till slightly brown and crisp. They can be improved in appearance if, when nearly ready, they are brushed over with beaten white of egg and dredged with castor sugar. Marzipan Eggs

Half pound ground almonds, (ioz each of castor and icing sugar, the whites of two eggs, one tablespoonful of rosewater, 15 drops of almond essence. Sieve the sugars, and put them into a basin with the ground almonds, pound lightly, adding the slightly whipped whites of the eggs, and the flavourings gradually. Pound and mix until a paste firm enough to mould is made. Shape the paste into eggs, and let them drv in a cool place, then coat them with chocolate. Break up about a quar-ter-pound coating chocolate and put it into a pan. Place the pan in another pan containing boiling water, and stir with a wooden spoon over low beat until the chocolate melts. Do not allow it to become too hot, or the chocolate will look dull. Remove the pan containing the chocolate occasionally, and feel if it is becoming too hot. On no account let any water touch the inside pail. When the chocolate has quite melted, dip the eggs in one by one, lift them out with a twopronged fork and place them on a dish lined with wax paper. Should the chocolate stiffen before all the eggs are coated, reheat it as before. Oyster Nuts Make a batter of one egg, half a cup of flour, one teaspoonful of bakingpowder, a pinch of salt and pepper, and a little milk. The* batter should be fairly thick, and this amount will be enough for about two dozen oysters. Have ready on the stove a frying pan half full of smoking hot dripping. Drop spoonfuls of the batter into this, each spoonful containing one oyster, if large, or several if they are small. Fry a light browfo. Pile the oyster nuts on to a hot dish and serve with parsley. Cucumber Relish

Required: 31b cooking apples, 2Alb onions, 7 small cucumbers (or -J quantity of larger), Jib sugar, 1 quart vinegar, salt and cayenne pepper. Peel and core the apples, and, after slicing, cook in a small quantity of water, until a pulp. Then add the sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper, and lioil for one minute. When cool, add the minced onions, and the encumbers, cut into chunks. It is then ready for bottling. Melon and Cape Gooseberry Jam Three pound cape gooseberries, 41b pie melon (chopped finely, minced is better), one quart water, Jib sugar to each pound fruit. Cover sugar over melon and stand all night. Next morning add water and cape gooseberries and boil till tliic-k, anil will set (not less than one and a half hours). Pumpkin Omelette Beat up an egg, stir into some mashed pumpkins, season, and if dry add -J cup milk. Fry in 2 tablespoons of boiling fat. Brown both sides, and fold like ail omelette before serving.

Canadian Apple Roll

Sift together 2 cups of self-raising flour and a little salt. Rub in 2 tablespoons of butter or good dripping, add 1 cup of milk, and mix into a firm dougii. Roll out about half ail inch thick, and cover with finely sliced apples and some sugar. Roll up, and place in a greased baking-dish. Boil together 1 cup of sugar, A cup of water, and 2 teaspoons of cinnamon. Pour this over the apple roll, add a tablespoon of butter, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven, basting occasionally. Serve with cream or custard. Ragout of Rabbit One rabbit, 1 carrot, 1 turnip (small), loss flour, Jib bacon, 1 onion, 1 spring onion, pepper and salt. Wash and clean the rabbit and joint in neat pieces. Cut the bacon in nice pieces and fry them ill a stewpan. Cut the vegetables in slices, put them with the pieces of rabbit into the bacon fat, and fry them’ brown together; then add the flour. Stir until brown. Then add U pints of water. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for one hour and a half. Serve the rabbit with the sauce poured over and the vegetables heaped lip on top of the rabbit. Sago Plum Pudding One clip breadcrumbs, i cup sugar, 2 tablespoons sago (soaked overnight in enough water to cover), 2 tablespoons butter, 1 cup seeded raisins or mixture of currants and sultanas, 1 level teaspoon soda dissolved in boiling water. Mix all dry ingredients together, stir in l c*np milk or enough to mix well, and allow for swelling while cooking. Pour in greased mould and boil 3 hours. Rabbit en Casserole Joint a young, rabbit, slice 2 fairsized onions and arrange a casserole with 2 slices of (lmcon cut into small pieces. 1 tablespoon dried herbs, a little salt, and pepper and U clips bread - cruriibs. Pour over all a cup milk and £ cup water, cover with tlie lid and bake slowly for 2 hours.

Steamed Apple Pudding Take one cup flour, one cup breadcrumbs, quarter of a pound chopped suet, half a teaspoonful baking soda, one heaped teaspoonful cream of tartar. pinch of salt. Make into a still paste and roll out not too thinly. Line a greased basin, then fill the basin with sliced apples, half a dozen cloves, sugar to taste. Cover with paste and cover with cloth. Steam for two hours and serve with a custard or a sweet arrowroot sauce, flavoured with lemon. Baked Apricot Roly-Poly Soak overnight one cup of dried apricots in just enough water to cover. Next day cook fruit with one and aiuilf cup's of sugar and allow to cool. Take two cups of flour, two teaspoons of baking powder, half a. teaspoon of salt, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a small cup of water. Rub butter well into flour, add baking powder and salt, and mix to a soft dough with water. Roll out oblong shape, lay on apricots and roll up. Put in a dish and pour over llie syrup from apricots, and cook in a moderate oven threequarters of an hour. Tomatoes and Sweet Corn Sweet corn, which comes to us already cooked in tins, is excellent with ripe tomatoes, baked in this way. Put the tomatoes into a well-buttered piedisli; over them put a thick layer of the corn and some pieces of butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover with breadcrumbs and a few more bits of butter and bake in a moderate oven. Rich Eggless Cake One and a-quarter pounds flour, half a pound butter, three-quarters of a pound soft sugar, half a pound raisins, half a pound currants, quarter of a pound candied pool cut fine, half a pound figs cut in small pieces, half pound preserved ginger, teaspoonful carbonate of soda mixed in about scven-cightlis cup of milk. Bake slowly and keep fourteen days before using. Vinegar Cake One pound flour, half a pound butter, half a pound each of currants, raisins, and sugar, two tablespoonfuls vinegar, two teaspoon!ills soda, cupful milk, one teaspoonful cinnamon, and one of ginger. Mix in the usual way and bake in a moderate oven for three hours.

HOUSEHOLD HINTS

THINGS USEFUL TO KNOW Protecting the Hands The best tiling to do for the hardening round the tips of the fingers is to heat a little salad oil and immerse tlfc finger-tips in this every evening for a few minutes before retiring to bed. When .doing your housework, use rubber gloves and smear a little oil round the cuticle and nails before putting on the gloves. This will help to protect them. Don’t use soon in tee washingup water; if for any reason you must have soda water, be careful to use mops; don't put your hands in the soda water if you want to keep your skin in good condition. When Mending Lace

When mewling beige or old ivory lace or net, and only white cotton or silk is available, both fan be quite easily dved to match the fabric. A little tea, deep or pale, as required, should be poured into a saucer and a few needlefuls of the silk or cotton steeped in it. If flesh colour is sought a few drops of red ink in a little water will dye white silk or cotton the shade required. For Stains on a Bath Green marks caused by water dripping from a geyser can be removed from a porcelain bath in this way: Make a thin coat of ammonia and borax, and apply to the stain with a soft cloth. Rinse with warm, soapy water, then with clear water. If the stain is an old one, several applications may be needed. To Keep Rubber Boots Dry To preserve rubber boots fill a pair of old socks with bran, tying up the ends, and keep these inside the boots when not in use. This satisfactorily dries up the moisture and dampness inside the boots, a certain amount of which is inevitable when the boots are worn for walking or for working out of doors. To dry the stuffed socks place in a warm oven or before a fire. Logs will always break into flames more quickly if stood on end, the grain going upwards.

A cracked egg will retain its contents when boiled, if a spoonful of salt is added to the water.