OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXX, 14 March 1936, Page 10

OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

FEMININE DAINTINESS

HOSTESS GOWNS

.BLOUSES FOR ALL OCCASIONS

A designer whose new collection of models 1 have recently inspected insists that the fresh note of an English spring he introduced in as many as possible of the suits and frocks. So we see green in various shades, delightful yellow tints, the pinks, reds and purples of Darwin tulips. _ In fact the salon suggests a charming oldfashioned garden with its riot of lovely colours. Some interesting mixtures are shown, too, the most attractive being the one of red with green. This alliance appears in suits for town weal, frocks for afternoons and gowns Lathe evening, the last not very frequentlv, dance and dinner dresses being black, white or pastel tinted in the main. Emerald, jade, myrtle, olive, mignonette, and bottle green shades are in evidence where smart women foiegathcr and the smartest of the \\carols introduce the red note bv way 01 braid, perhaps, or buttons, buckles, 01 garnet-studded clips, while iinpertine.it little green hats are trimmed with jaunty red feathers, or vice vcisa. In the yellow list come such delicious tints as primrose, daffodil, tea-rose, maize, banana, pale coffee and parchment, with canary and lemon yellows for the bolder spirits. In sports clothes especially the last two colours look extremely well. The reds include the genuine geranium, the softer cherry and the numerous bright and subdued shades associated with the rose garden. Of all, I should say that green is most popular at present. It comes up well in chiffon, net, lace, and crepe for evening presses. It may not he so successful in satin, although 1 have seen a lovely model in this material in a deep jade tone. It was made in princess style,- cut low at the back, moulded fairly high in front, . and made to look regal with. a pointed

train to the skirt. It was a daring gown because no attempt had been made to trim it, so only a tall, regallooking woman, who is very sure of herself, could wear it with success. But there are such women and they might do worse than consider this type of gown when planning something now for special occasions. Delicate little dance dresses for debutantes look airy and fairylike in the paler green nets and chiffons, some of them sprinkled with silver beads or sequins, some threaded with slender silver lines. Silver and pale green—a mai vellous colour scheme for youth.

One fashion house, incidentally, has hit ir.’on 4 very sympathetic idea. I Knowing that debutantes have, as a 1 rule, a dress allowance which they find scarce!;) equal to the demands made upon it. they pay special attention to the girls' requirements and offer lovely little model frocks at astonishingly low prices. I saw several of them at a debutante’s dance a few nights ago. They looked worth two or three times the prices paid for them—prices which would, uo doubt, have been asked, had not the understanding soul in the dress salon appreciated the girls’ position. SHE WHO ENTERTAINS All the designers are not concerned chiefly with young folk, however, and some are making it their business to provide appropriate gowns for women who entertain a good deal. The idea is that?.being busy’ women, they should have in 'their wardrobes suits and dresses in which they can receive their own gues.ts Slid go on afterwards, may be. to be received themselves bv another hostess. I mentioned last week the adorable little jacket frocks suggested by some dresmakers. These are so attractive that they need no further lecpinnieiulatipii. The li'px.t best choice is the simple, well cut dress of satin or silk crepe, in .black, night blue, or some fairly Well, deep colour, which needs little in the way of ornament and is, therefore, easy to put ini and easy 1° wear.’ The’hostess who has occasionally to rush" away from, Say, her own afternoon reception or sherry party to someone eise’s dinner party would do well to plan things’ so that the gown need not he changed. It should lie at least instep length and (hiT bodice should he cut fairly low' hut’it is not necessary to do without sleeves because many of the new dinner gown models have sleeves of some kind. To wear at home in the afternoon have a tiiiv bolero jacket inade of some thin material like chiffon or georgette, in the s.i m.: colon ‘ Providing the dress itself has sleeves, the "bolero can be s’cevcless nod it ably solves the problem of quick changing. Other hostess dresses are a little

like graceful negligees. exquisitely draped, girdled with metal cords (li-near-jewel studded belts and finished with Wing-like sleeves which, in some cases, sweep almost to the floor. One or two models are made rather like elaborate dressing gowns, wrap-over at the side and held in place only hv thicksilk, silver pi gold ropes. They have deep, cascading levers, three-quarters length sleeves faced with satin in a vivid contrasting colour,, or with silver or gold tissue if the girdle is metal thread rope, and they are the most comfortable of all to wear. VARIETY OF BLOUSES The vogue for blouses of all types will surely never die. Women find them such useful items that if is no uncommon thing to lmve as many as a dozen even in a modest wardrobe. There are plain Shirts in taffetas and washing silk and satin for morning wear, frilled or lace’ trimmed muslin and crepe de chine ones for afternoons, and the daintiest things in lame, tissue, chiffon and net for evenings. For the evening blouse is generally accepted now and is proving invaluable to the woman with a small dross allowance. One well cut skirt will see her through many a dinner party if she rings the chances in blouses and makes sure that 1 each one is perfect in its ov n style.

. The pinafore frock has been reintroduced and I feel sure it is merely a practical excuse for indulging in pretty blouses. The frock is cut lower iu the bodice than previously and has quite slender shoulder straps, so most of the blouse beneath is visible. For women at home, for business girls and for those who go out frequently, the pinafore frock, with half a dozen blouses, is a sound proposition. I saw one i:i bronze silk maroeain and, complementary to it. a blouse of palest green crepe de chine embroidered with small bronze dots, one of binge and lu-onzc striped taffetas, one of coffee coloured washing satin, one of gold lame, one of\silvcr and gold shot tissue, and one, most beautiful of all, of pale primrose chiffon, accordion pleated, the sleeves puffed and encircled with hands of bronze beads.

With that one dress, therefore, could be worn a blouse to suit almost any occasion with the exception of a formal dinner party or dance. So arc beauty and usefulness combined in these days to the joy of the woman who, although not wealthy, must be smart. —Diana Dane.

GEORGE SAND (1804-1876) (By Ralph Dulin) The France into which George Sand was born was intensely conservative towards women. Outside the home, they had no role except the most dishonourable. Yet, with little advantage of wealth or beauty, George Sand won a place among this hostile society, and mixed on equal terms with men like Balzac, Victor Hugo and de .Musset, who made this period the most brilliant in French literature.

Maurice Dugin, a soldier of Napoleon, had married beneath his class. When he died, a conflict began between his mother and his widow for possession of his child Aurore. Their strife dominated the years ol her girlhood and site took refuge in herself from the quarrels by which she was surrounded.

Her first act of rebellion was to choose her own husband. Ihe union was based not on love but on friendship and apparent similarity <f tastes Auroras husband was a boor who came to regard his placid and dreamy wife as an idiot. When he brought his low companions into the lit use, she left him and settled in Paris. Ihe courts assigned to her the. education of their sou and daughter.

In spite of her calm temperament., her mind henceforward developed with astonishing power. She overcame the obstacles to a woman's e-ijoyment of culture by adopting masculine dress in which she frequented a.one the galleries and theatres of Baris. She. began to write, in collaboration. Her first independent work'was published under the pseudonym, George Sand. Her novels were .concerned with the emotions of men and women and became famous for their copious and harmonious, style. They brought her in contact with the aristocratic ' poet, de Musset. Between his capricious and nervous mind and the. strong and stable mind of George arose the irresistible attraction of opposites. I’lienstormy love affair broke down on the basic ' difference in their natures. I’hougb George had lavished a maternal affection upon her lover, de Musset bewailed her inconstancy in a group of exquisite lyrics. As she kept

silence, the world assumed her guilty. Her relations with Chopin ran a similar course. For eight years she nursed and inspired him, but his death from consumption was attributed to her infidelity. Tile love that possessed George Sand was for mankind. She demanded the freedom for women which she exalted for herself long before the age of emancipation. She preached the dignity of labour and was an active supporter of the second French Republic. When the third Empire came, she fought tenaciously to save its enemies from persecution. Meanwhile, to support her family and a host. of dependents, she poured out a stream of literary effort. Exhausted by overwork she would retire to the

country, where she found rapid reinvigoration from her sympathy with Nature. Except. in her serene brow and brooding eyes, visitors saw no stamp of her fertile powers in her undistinguished features. Charles Dickens was disappointed that the notorious George Sand .should appear just “a plain good woman.” In the evening of her life, George Sand derived consolation from the presence of her adored grandchildren. It was in the bosom of her family, with loving words of farewell on her lips, that she passed away. She had worked almost till the end. Her own words strike the keynote to her gallant life. “To love in spite of everything —that is the answer to the riddle of the Universe.”

JELLIED PRUNES Prunes need not he so dull as they generally are. If they are jellied they become quite a. .festive dish. Wash and*’ soak about two’-dozen prunes for twelve hours. Make a syrup of the water in which they w.erc soaked, two tablespooiisful of sugar and the juice nf one lemon. Cover the prunes and stew very gently until tender. When cold, stone each prime'and replace the stone with a blanched almond. Make a jelly of the juice and a jelly square, adding more lemon juice if it is too sweet and, when dissolved, pour over the primes and turn into a moistened mould. Serve with whipped cream.

KITCHEN COINER

RECIPES FOR QUINCES MOST PIQUANT OF FRUITS Here are a few good quince recipes:

Mock Raspberry .Tain.—Mince 21b of peeled quinces. Add 31b peeled tomatoes and 51b sugar, and boil from two and a half to three hours.

.Pickled Quinces. —One pound of sugar to every pint of vinegar, little cayenne, pepper-corns, doves, quinces. Cut quinces into small pieces, put in preserving pan. and nearly cover with vinegar. Add spices and boil until tender. Let cool and pickle is ready for use.

Quince and Grape dam. —Six pounds quinces, 41b grapes (large grapes for preference), 71b sugar. Peel quinces and cut them into dice. Wash grapes. Put fruit, with 3Jib sugar, into pre-serving-pan, and lot stand overnight. Bring to boil, and cook for about 10 minutes. Add remainder of sugar and cook until it sets.

Whole Quinces in Jelly. —Four large green quinces, four pints of water, and 21b sugar. Put water, sugar and wiped whole quinces into pail, bring slowly to boil, and simmer gently about three to four hours, or till liquid will jelly. Remove fruit and bottle jelly. Core, peel, and cut up quinces and return to the pan with half a pint of water and 111) sugar, and cook till right consistency for jam. The quinces may be bottled witli the jelly, and used whole as a dessert, served with cream. Quince Honey.—Six pounds sugar, one pint water, and Oil) quinces. Dissolve the sugar with the water in the picserving-pan. When sugar is dissolved bring syrup to the boil, and boil a few minutes. Wine tbo quinces to remove the “bloom,” and grate with a large-sized suet-grater directly into the svnip in the pan. When all the fruit is ill bring to the boil and boil for half an hour, This method of grating the fruit into the syrup prevents discolouration, which occurs if the fruit is minced and allowed to stand in the air. Quince .Jam—Take Gib of quinces, an,l wipe them, then remove peel and cores. Place peel and cores in a pre-serving-pan with sullicient water to cover, and cook slowly till the fruitskins are tender. Strain through a jelly-bag and pour over the quinces, which should he sliced thinly or cut into small blocks. Allow to stand overnight. (This liquid will keep the quinces a good colour). Next morning put the quinces and liquid into the preservingpan and cook until tender, but not mashed, Add the sugar, allowing lib of r.iurar to each lib of fruit, and boil steadily till the jam jells. Jjottle and seal hot. This is an excellent colour, and the fruit is suspended in a firm jelly.

To Preserve Tomatqes for Soup The syrup bottles with the screw tops should be suitable for preserving, but to make certain that they are air-

tight seal the edges with sealing-wax. Have the bottles absolutely clean and sterilised, and have them ready heating in the oven with the door open. Place in a preserving-pan any quantity of tomatoes, with a very little watei and a little salt. Stew until thoroughly cooked, then pass through a fine sieve, put hack on the fire and bring to boiling point, then pour into the heatoil bottles. Brim over with boilingwater amt place the top on immediatclv and seal. If corks arc used thc\ Hnmbl be put into boiling water for ten minutes or so before using, and after putting into the bottles they should lie weighted down for a few minutes before sealing. To use the soup attoiwarils pour into saucepan, add a little water, bring to the boil, then add a piece of bicarbonate of soda the size of a pea before adding" the milk. -Mid butter, pepper, and salt to taste. Another recipe is as follows: (ill) ripe tomatoes, 1 pint of stock, .! medium-sized onions. 1 tabic-spoonful of sugar. I level teaspoonful celery seed, popper and salt to taste, j teaspoon fill bicarbonate of soda, 3 level teaspooufuls cornflour Cook all to-i-ether (except the cornflour) until quite tender, then pass through sieve, reheat, and thicken with cornflour. Cook for from S to 10 minutes, pour boilinii- hot into hot hollies, and seal absolutely airtight. If the whole con(enis of’the bottle are not used at nice it should be sealed down again as ,oi,M as possible. It would lie advisable not to leave Hie remainder too long. Tomato Sauce Eight pounds tomatoes. I quart vinegar. 4oz salt, loz white pepper, 1 scant teaspoon cayeuna pepper, joz allspice, loz cloves, (i large onions. 21b sugar. 21b apples. Boil all together for 3 hours. Strain sml l bottle while hot. Tomato sauce will ferment if put in bottles that are not quite dry, or stored in a damp place. Green Tomato Pickle

'Pen pounds green tomatoes, (i pints of best vinegar. Ill) golden syrup, 2oz allspice, 2oz whole pepper, 2oz cloves, 2 tablespoons mustard-seed, a few chillies. 0 or <S onions, and salt. Cut the tomatoes into thick pieces, sprinkle each layer with salt as they are sliced into' the howl, and leave to stand all night. Next morning drain off all the liquid. Put the vinegar and golden svrnp into the preserving-pan and bring them to the boil. Then add the allspice, pepper, cloves, mustard-seed, and chillies, lied loosely in nyislin. Boil for a few minutes, then add the tomatoes and sliced onions. Boil till tender. Bottle, and seal when cold. To Bottle Beans Beans for preserving should be very young and tender, and freshly picked. Place two saucepans on the fire, both containing water and salt, in the proportion of an ounce of salt to a quart of water. After boiling the salted water for 15 minutes put in the beaus, and boil for 15 minutes, the water in the other saucepan being also kept at boiling-point. After 15 minutes take the vegetables carefully but of the water and put into Mason jars. When the jars are full pour in the fresh boiling- salted water from the other saucepan until the jars' arc brimful and all air is excluded. Adjust the rubbers and screw down. When required for a meal turn the vegetables into a basin of cold water and rinse anil drain them well. Then put them into cold water with about one-third of the quantity of salt that would he used for fresh beans, and cook until tender. The jars used must be quite airtight. If Mason jars are not available other jars that can lie tightly sealed could he used. Boiled Apple Dumplings Make a suet paste with jib chopped suet, Jll> self-raising Hour, pinch salt, -i pint of cold water. Put the suet, Hour and salt in a howl and stir all together —add water, and mix to a paste. Roll out to about j inch thick, then cut into rounds. This depends oil size of apples. For small apples use a saucer to cut the size. Put an apple (previously washed) on each piece, and completely cover. Have ready a large pot of boiling water. Be sure the water is boiling, or dumplings will be sodden. It preferred, they can he tied in a sponge cloth, instead’ of ail ordinary pudding cloth. Now plunge them in, Boil 30 minutes, no longer, and they will he extremely light. Garnish with sugar and cream. Serve. Snowballs, made exactly the samewav. minus the apples, and cooked only 20 minutes. They, too, are very light and eaten with golden syrup and cream are delicious. Apple Pudding Mix thoroughly a teaspoon of baking powder with a breakfasteup of flour. Beat 2 eggs well, add half a CU p of milk and 2oz melted butter; add to flour, heat all together 15 minutes. Place two inches of stewed apples (sweetened) in a piedisli. Bomin butter, and hake in a quick oven. Serve hot. Apple Marmalade Pare, core and cut into small pieces some coarse-grained apples and allow lib of loaf sugar to each pound of apples. Add enough water to dissolve the sugar and then boil until mixture is a fairly thick syrup. Add apples and boil till tender, then add the juice of one lemon for each 31b of apples used. Rub through a- sieve, put hack into preserving pan and boil till thick. When cold the mixture will be the consistency of the usual fruit cheese. Store in small glass jars or glasses, covering with paraffin wax and paper when cold. Melon and Lemon Jam Cut a preserving melon into slices, peel and remove seeds, cut into dice. Allow Jlh sugar to each 111) of melon. The rind and juice of about half-dozen lemons to each melon. Sprinkle some of the sugar over the melon overnight. In the morning add the lemon-juice (strained), also the remainder ol the sugar. Boil until the melon is golden and the syrup thick and clear. Test at intervals. Cape Gooseberry Jam Take 51b fruit, 2 cups wul’v. "lb sugar, and the juice of 4 lemons. Roil -ugar and water together for 3 minutes. ;• ml skim well and add juice of lemons. When quite clear, add goo-cherries. Bc.il quickly until it sets, about 1 to II hours.

HOUSEHOLD HINTS

THINGS USEFUL TO KNOW To polish kitchen knives, mix a little bicarbonate of soda with powdered bathhiick, and scour them thoroughly. Here's a quickly prepared supper

dish: Grate some cheese on a plate, surround with sliced tomatoes, the.i break an egg in the centre. Grill until the egg is cooked.

A good method of restoring discoloured til-own shoes is to paint them with iodine. Let them dry after the painting process, and then polish in the usual way.

To clean rusty curtain-pins, let them stand for a few minutes in a cupful of water to which a little ammonia has been added. Then take them out and rub well.

( liiil’on dresses which have become limp should be held over a large area of steam, such as call he obtained from a big pan or copper. They should tiicn he quickly shaken out and dried before a good lire. This will freshen the material, but will in no way clean it.

When cleaning brass on front doors, so often the metal polish leaves smeary marks which are a nuisance to remove when dry. dust give an occasional polish round the area to lie cleaned with furniture cream and you will find that a dry duster will take the smeary marks of the metal polish away very quickly.

If oil or grease in any form should get on light silk or any material, at once put a thick layer of talcum powder on the spot, and leave for an hour. If necessary, repeat the treatment. You will find the powder will absorb the oil. Then shake off the surplus and rub gently with a piece of the same material and traces will disappear.