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IN THE GARDEN

SEASONABLE OPERATIONS THE VEGETABLE PLOTS If the weather prediction for the weekend is fulfilled the prospects for work in the garden are not too good, so that amateurs should expedite the carrying out of planned operations. Sowings of cabbage and cauliflower can be made now for supplying plants for autumn planting. Shade the seed bed to keep off fly. Thin any crops of carrots, beet, parsnips, and keep the soil stirred between the rows.

Onions ready for harvesting should be attended to. A sowing of dwarf peas made now will give a crop if weather is favourable; it is worth trying. Potatoes should be dug as soon as tops show signs of maturing. Once they start maturing there is little hope of any further growth. Tomatoes need spraying and disbudding. Keep the plants tied to their supports. If caterpillars appear add a teaspoonful of arsenate of lead to the gallon of spray mixture. Celery should be planted. Shade the plants till established and keep watered as much as possible.

Don’t forget that sowing of parsley to provide needed supplies in winter and spring. The seed takes a long time to germinate and watering should not be forgotten. In many gardens, after the digging of potatoes and the finishing off of crops of peas and beans there is much land lying idle—often left to the devitalising influence of weeds if the amateur’s enthusiasm has waned. It is worth while to make a special effort to keep the weeds under control; the effort will repay the gardener and the household.

If unused space is not to be utilised for planting out cabbage, broccoli, savoys, spinach, silver beet and leeks—the last-named one of the most easy of vegetables to grow once it is properly placed in position—-or for sowing carrots, lettuce, turnips, and spinach, the best thing to do is to sow the plot in green manure crops such as blue lupins, mustard or oats, for digging in later. This writer has secured excellent results from blue lupin, but some soils prefer the others. Mustard is not relished by soil insect pests and is worth a trial. Many experienced gardeners are continuing to sow dwarf beans —a small lot at a time.

Judging by the condition of many amateurs’ tools, it is a popular idea that spades, forks, and similar garden implements do not require that attention to cleanliness which is instinctively given to such articles as saws, pruning knives, and so forth. That the idea is a mistaken one needs only the convincing proof of a test to destroy it utterly. The ease with which a clean spade sinks into the ground and lifts its loads of soil is a revelation to tho uninitiated. Tke same applies to such things as hoes, where a cutting action is essential for their effectiveness. And the whole thing is so simple. Just a piece of paper rubbed over the tool while the soil is damp upon it, and a final polish with a clotn, and the business is done.

After using shears on turf wipe off the blades of grass, and finish with an oily rag. A spot of oil occasionally on the holt which fastens the blades together reduces labour by half The lawn mower is a troublesome item to clean, and on that account frequently neglected, but if it is to do good work, and that easily, it must be well looked to. After use clean off all the grass and soil, and rub the cutting blades with an oiled rag. See to covering the cog wheels, or the expense of a new wheel may be the result.

’MIDST THE FLOWERS Climbing roses that have finished flowering should have the old growths cut away and young growths which spring from the base tied in for next season’s flowering. Continue to stake out the Michaelmas daisies, to tie and thin the dahlias, and to cut over aquilegias, delphiniums, and other herbaceous perennials which are now past their best. Keep the soil surface well stirred to check weeds and to conserve moisture. Narcissi and other bulbs should be lifted before they start making new roots, unless they are to be left where they were last year. It is a mistake to leave them too long to become unduly overcrowded, and as often happens, to get choked by weeds. Where replanting is to be done, start to prepare the beds. Zinnias, cosmos, scarlet salvia, celosias, and French marigolds may be planted. Seeds of perennials and biennials can be sown now. A bed of sandy soil which can be shaded temporarily is quite all right. Pansies, carnations, and such like seeds that are in small quantities are best sown in pots or boxes; these should be shaded.

Before sowing seed in the open ground water the drills, then sow and cover with fine soil. If a few pine or macrocarpa branches are laid on top no *more water should he needed until the seedlings show. Carnation layering can be done. Use a sandy soil for covering the layers. _ Prepare the ground for planting anemones and ranunculi. If possible dig in decayed cow manure. Few plants make such a fine display in the garden as antirrhinums, and no others are more easily grown. To have them in flower in the early summer the best results are obtained by sowing now and planting out in autumn. The seed can be sown in pots or boxes, using a clean sandy soil. Once the seedlings appear and have made two leaves they should be pricked off into other boxes. Early transplanting so as to ensure a sturdy plant is essential to success. A little shade for a day or so after transplanting will help the plants. Shading is unnecessary in the case of aquilegias, Canterbury hells, sweet Williams, antirrihinums, etc. Sow Iceland poppies and a few stocks in boxes for early work. Lift gladioli as soon as the foliage yellows. When seed pods have been saved, gather as soon as the top shows signs of bursting. In the removal of dead flowers from rhododendrons the greatest neglect is shown. It is a common tiling to see them remaining throughout (the season. Allowing the dead flowers to remain has an adverse effect on the growth of the hushes. At the base of the buds shoots appear, sometimes one, often two. They are hindered in their progress by the developing seeds. Moreover for the sake of tidiness and appearance alone the dead flowers should be removed.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NEM19330210.2.109

Bibliographic details

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXVI, 10 February 1933, Page 8

Word Count
1,086

IN THE GARDEN Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXVI, 10 February 1933, Page 8

IN THE GARDEN Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXVI, 10 February 1933, Page 8

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