IN THE GARDEN

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXIV, 26 June 1931, Page 3

IN THE GARDEN

WINTER OPERATIONS THE VEGETABLE PLOTS As soon as weather permits, a planting of potatoes should lie made for early crop. It is too great a risk to plant in situations that are liable to severe frosts, but, as stated in previous notes, the warmest and driest position should he selected, and if the sets have been sprouted they should only be planted deep enough to just cover the sprouts. Warmth at this season is what tlie roots require, and this can best be attained by keeping the plants well earthed up as they advance in growth. The herb bed can be lifted and replanted. This is necessary to keep it tidy, as many of the plants, like thyme, sage, marjoram, mint, are inclined to grow stragly and untidy. The following root crops may be still set if the ground is at all workable: —Carrots, beet, onions.

Green crops such as spinach, silver beet, lettuce, parsley, cabbage, cauliflower, mustard and cress, must be sown at once.

Hand-weeding will, in many eases, be necessary in the ease of small seedling crops. Although hoeing is practically out of the question, the stirring of the soil round the roots of plants will be advantageous. Stirring the soil and an occasional dusting of fertiliser on the soil will keep slugs down. Make a sowing of winter spinach. Thin the plants to stand Sin. apart. The thinnings can be used for culinary purposes. Ground .not required for immediate use should be sown down in oats or lupins for digging in. Sow early peas and broad beans. Plant cabbage and cauliflower. Wliqre asparagus plots are being formed, the ground, if not already prepared, should be completed as soon as possible. In treating the soil for this crop, it must be borne in mind that the more deeply and better the ground is prepared, the finer and more lasting will be the, crop produced. The ground should be trenched to at least a depth of 2ft., and as tlie work proceeds and the bottom of the trench is reached, a thick layer of manure or other decayed vegetable matter should be placed there. In adding the sand or other gritty matter, a portion should be mixed with every layer of soil. Besido this, manure should iie freely used and well incorporated with the soil throughout- Sea-saiul and sea-weed, when procurable, are excellent materials to work in the soil; in fact, any gritty material, such us burnt refuse, wood ashes, brick and lime nibble, will assist to keep tlie soil open and porous.

’MIDST THE FLOWERS Cyclamens, although fairly hardy, must lie protected from heavy frosts. A light covering will save the leaves from injury. Dahlias that are cut back should he carefully dug up without detaching the tubers from the crowns. Remove all .soil from ,among the tubers by springing or working it out. After cleansing all loose soil from among the tubers, properly dry the stools preparatory to storing in a cellar or oilier suitable place. Attach the names to each. From now until the end of July is the best time to transplant the different varieties of roses in the beds and other places already prepared. Partially prune each plant before planting it. Defer the final pruning until the middle of July. Shorten hack any straggling shoots.

Roses can be planted. Any weak plants in existing beds should be lifted and replaced by some stronger variety. Prepare the ground well for roses. They will occupy the same ground for several years. Rose beds should be cleared of weeds and fallen leaves. It is a mistake to let the beds run wild with weeds and rubbish. Whilst recommending the planting of roses and other shrubs, it must be understood that the weather is the controlling factor.

Cuttings of many rockery and border plants, such as ieeplant, gazanias, lobelia, myosotis, can be put in now. Sowings of ten-week stocks, sweetpeas, scabious, antirrhinums, schizanthus, gaillardia, can be made. It would be advisable to sow in pots or boxes, and to protect from heavy rains.

Herbaceous borders can be manured and renovated. Most of the autumn flowering plants are over, and a general clean-up can be given. Alany hardy annuals may be planted for an early display, such as poppies Iceland, primula malacoides, pansies, violas, cinerarias, anemones, and ranunculus. Dig the soil over well and provide sutlicient drainage. Perennials are worthy subjects for setting for late flowering such as aquilegia, Canterbury bells, belfts perennis, delphiniums, sweet William, etc. Now is a suitable time to select the varieties of bouvardias. AVhen they are in flower transplant them into the mixed border. Protect them from severe frosts.

Cinerarias in the open' must be protected from heavy frosts. Special plant covers may be obtained. Nemesias also need protection. Hedges should be attended to. Gardeners wishing to plant fresh shelter rows should commence opening out a trench to receive the plants. Established shelter belts should lie looked over and fresh specimens planted where growth is thin. Gardeners who are looking for a hack shelter fence, anything from 5 to 10 feet, could not do better than plant hakea saligna, a cheap and quick growing tree. Primrose and polyanthus clumps may lie lifted and divided, setting out the fresh stock (i inches apart. Lily of the valley crowns are now ready for shifting. Camias are useful and hardy subjects for rock and border work, procurable in many new and bl ight shades. Newly-planted shrubs or trees that need it should have stakes or some support against the wind.

FOR SHADY BORDERS Not everything will bloom in shady places, but quite a number of hardy plants will do well in such positions, some, indeed, preferring them. Some of the campanulas are excellent plants for shady borders. Perhaps the finest of them is campanula latifolia macrantha, which reaches a height of 4ft or

so, and bears glorious violet-blue flowers. Campanula lactiflora, a tall plant with numerous sprays of pale blue blossom, campanula grandis, 2ft high, with blue saucer-shaped flowers, and campanula persicifolia 2ft to 3ft, in blue or white, are other good shady border hellflowers.

Some of tlie lilies are happy in the shade; for instance, Liliuin speciosum, Li limn Henryi, a lovely pale orangecoloured flower, and Liliuin pardalinum, the gorgeous scarlet and yellow panther lily. The bulbs of these may be planted in the spring. The Japanese anemone of rose or white, lupins, miehaelmas daisies, both tall and dwarf, foxglove, polyanthus, valerian, forget-me-not, auricula, daffodils,. Solomon's seal, bluebells, cyclamen, cinerarias, and various ferns and foliage plants —all of these will thrive in the shady border.