Soil Water

Northern Advocate, 17 November 1941, Page 7

Soil Water

THE GARDEN

From now on until the beginning of the autumn rains we may expect dry spells, and it is a problem to keep the soil moist during this period; and we may want to leave the garden to take care of itself for a few days, or longer. The least we can do is to prevent the soil from becoming bone-dry, for once this happens it becomes another matter to put it in order again. Light sandy soils dry out quickly. Pure sand holds water just about as well as a sieve does. To hold moisture the soil must be in a suitable mechanical condition. This may be done by incorporating humus, or decayed animal or vegetable matter with the ‘soil. The humus should be well rotted, finely sieved and thoroughly mixed in with the soil, the object being to fill up the air spaces and so encourage the retention of moisture. But this is not all. We must do more than encourage the rise of moisture in the soil. We must do everything possible to prevent surface evaporation. Except in extreme cases, the best wav to do this is to keep the soil surface rough by light, hoeing, and frequent hoeing; and always hoe as soon as possible after rain has fallen. If you are taking a summer holiday, many of your plants will need a mulch of grass-cuttings, sea-grass, rushes, sacking. or other suitable material. Cabbages and Lime Cabbages and other plants of the family, as turnips, broccoli, etc., revel in a well-limed soil. Acid soil conditions predispose them to bacterial and fungoid diseases. Give these plants a well-limed soil, good drainage and a good ration of organic manure, with a good sprinkling of super added. The lime used niay be slaked lime or crushed limestone, and the liming should be done well ahead of the planting, so that the lime may have a good chance to react. Important Tiny Roots The hair-like roots attached to seedling plants, and, indeed, to all plants, are of the utmost importance; and it is very necessary when transplanting to see that these roots suffer as little damage as possible. A good plan when transplanting seedlings is to dibble a good hole, and then fill it with water; then set the seedlings in so that the rootlets extend down as fas as possible. Don’t allow the roots to double up. Water lightly with a fine rose, and shade from the sun if necessary, using any convenient shading material. Remember that all the nutrient solutions absorbed by the plant from the soil is taken in per medium of the finest rootlets, and make your motto: “Take every care of the tiny rootlets.” Many shrubs form a ball of fibrous roots extending out and down in keeping with the top growth. The plant leaves naturally shade these tender roots, and the fallen leaves help to keep them cool, and, as they rot, their remains supply valuable manure. The very tidy gardener often does, harm by digging near these plants, raking up the leaves, or cutting off the lower branches, thus leaving the roots exposed to a burning sun and unnatural conditions.

A mistake often made with plants, and particularly with seedlings, is to plant too deep, having the soil up around the soft leaves of the plant. Plants subject to collar rot, such as asters and antirrhinums, quickly succumb to such treatment.