Enjoy Your GARDEN

Northern Advocate, 3 June 1939, Page 2 (Supplement)

Enjoy Your GARDEN

Spend the Leisure Hours of Daylight with the Flowers

Hedges and Hedge Plants

For garden boundaries hedges must, all things considered, take first place. They are inexpensive, relatively. They adim't air to the garden, yet prove efficient shelter rrom draughts. They are pleasing to the eye and they give a measure of privacy.

The first step in the establishment of

a hedge is deep and wide digging, so that the roots of the hedge plants may in no way bo cramped. Dig from 18in to 2ft deep. When filling in the trench, mix in with the soil a liberal supply of bone dust, for it must be borne in

mind that hedges are permanent, and can be better manured at planting

than later

The distance apart to plant depends on the kind of shrub employed: it may vary from one to three or four feet, depending cn the natural spread of the plants.

As planting proceeds, the trench should be filled in, treading the soil firmly before the final filling in.

The number of close growing trees and shrubs suitable for hedges and screens is larger than is generally thought. A number of shrubs, other than those commonly planted, including a number of flowering shrubs, can be pruned to form most attractive hedges. Among the plants suitable for hedge purposes are the following; Escallonia macrantha, and E. Ingramii. Both are hardy and clean and fresh looking; they do well here. Tecoma Capensis is a favourite, and if nursed while young, forms an excellent hedge. It should be planted when danger of frost is over, in the early spring.

Lonicera nitida is a honeysuckle with small neat leaves in abundance. It may be allowed to rise to six or more feet. It is easy to prune and it makes a very attractive hedge.' It is quite hardy. Abelia floribunda may be grown as a specimen plant or as a hedge. It wants very little cutting; it is always clean; it is not adversely affected by dry weather conditions, and when in flower it looks very attractive. For a seaside hedge Olearia Traversii. the Chatham Island Akeake, is one of the best. Like most of the Olearias, the foliage is green and white, and it does not seem to be troubled by pests of any kind. Another seaside hedge plant is Coprosma Baueri, a glossy dark green leaved plant that glories in the smell of the sea, j Bouvardias These beautiful winter-flowering plants are among the choicest of perennial plants. Coming into flower at this season they are particularly acceptable for cutting as well as for garden decorations. Unfortunately, however, they are fussy plants. They need shelter from strong winds, and they need j shelter from frosts; and sunshine is | necessary. Bouvardias like to have j their roots in firm ground and for I this reason they prefer a clay soil, provided it has been well worked and manured. Well rotted animal manure is mest suitable. Failing this, bonedust | may be used. Dig the manure under the ground at planting time.

Bouvardias are still in bloom in gardens that have not suffered from recent frosts.

May and June are the best months for planting bouvardias. For the best results give the plants a bed to themselves. Failing this, plant them between roses or carnations, as all of these plants like plenty of fresh air, and should therefore not be crowded. They benefit by a mulch during the hot summer weather. Fresh manure should never be used near bouvardias. The plants will need extra protection when first planted as they may have been taken from a glasshouse. Unusual Billberglas When we think of this flower it is generally the well-known Billbergia Nutans that flowers in the early summer that wc call to mind. Most gaideners know the flower, if not the name—the rose-pink sheath with the peculiar green, blue and yellow coloured flowers hanging out of it. In a few Whangarei gardens the largerflowered varieties of Billbergia aie grown, but these seldom flower. However, probably owing to the dry summer, these large-flowered forms are.at j present flowering. Rose is the pre--1 dominating colour, and the flowers are I unusual in their shape and colouring.

The plants like to be left undisturbed for best results.

The Lily of the Valley

This gem will net grow everywhere

it must have the right position. Give it a shady corner that may be kept moist during spring and summer, and a plot that is not dug or even forked over to any extent. The bed should be sheltered from the hot afternoon sun. Where there is room for it among the large roots, these plants will grow under trees; but where a tree has a mass of surface roots the ground is generally dry, and there may be neither room nor nourishment available, Generally speaking, deciduous trees are the best for planting under.

As lily of the valley generally remains in the same place over a number of years, it is well to prepare the soil well before planting. Dig from 18in to 2ft deep, and fill in with old manure, rotted leaves, etc., mixed in with the soil. Make quite Arm before planting the pips, as the roots are called. Do not plant too deeply—the pips should be just covered. Tread the soil firm after planting. Never use fresh manures, or even grass cuttings. Use old well-rotted manure or decayed leaves. Cool manure should be used in prepar-

ing the bed, also for mulching in summer. Lily cf the valley takes several years to become established, and during the time it should not be disturbed more than necessary. It is a good plan to plant the tree and liiy of the valley at the same time. Then the ground can be well prepared. Correction In last week's notes, referring to the training of sweet peas under the cordon system, 4 inches should read 4 feet.