IN THE GARDEN

Northern Advocate, 15 June 1935, Page 6

IN THE GARDEN

[BY “TAINUI”]

Rose Pruning. I From now on until the middle of August is probably the best time for pruning our rose bushes. The operation is not a complicated one, and the general principles are the same for all roses. The special treatment necessary in some cases can be learned only by experience and observation. In the first place, it must be borne in mind that the flowers are produced on young shoots of the present season’s growth. Therefore, one of our main objects should be to encourage the development of new wood. It is necessary to cut back the shoots in order to throw greater strength into the remaining buds, from, which good strong flowering shoots may arise. It is a good practice then, in dealing with a weak grower to prune back to four or five buds, whereas a really strong grower may have as many as fifteen or, sixteen buds left. Newly planted young bushes should be cut well back the first season, with the idea of producing a strong and shapely bush. From four to seven buds should be left, the topmost one pointing in an outward direction. With the older bushes, more work is necessary, and in regard t° these the following points should be carefully noted: — (1) Remove all' dead wood, as this is of no use to the bush and is always a possible source of disease, (2) Cut away as much of the old wood as possible. It may be necessary to remove some of this right down to the base of the plant in order to make room for new shoots that arise from this point. : • (3) Remove thin twiggy shoots that are obviously too weak to support flowers. (4) Remove all in-growing shoots, and those that cross one another. (5) Having now the desired number of shoots, it is only necessary to cut these back to the desired number ol eyes. As stated above, this oper- - - ation depends on the strength of the plant. Every cut should be near a bud, and made in a slanting direction. The topmost bud should always point outwards. If the cut is too far above a bud, the extra will die, and dead wood is always liable to become a source of disease. If, on the other hand, the cut is made into the bud, the latter will die. What has been said above regarding pruning is intended only as a guide for beginners. Experience will soon * teach the details. Tea roses generally do not like severe pruning. When a shoot is worn out, it is best to cut it out at the ground level, so as to make room for new shoots from the base. Remove dead wood, and lightly prune the rest. If all light twiggy growth were removed, there would be very little left on some varieties. However, there are far more varieties that require hard pruning than require light pruning. Climbing roses may, at first sight, look rather a puzzle, for, towards the end of the season the growth may become very dense. If new vigorous growth is tied in position as it grows in the summer, the plant can be kept shapely, and this then makes pruning easier. It is best to look at the base first, and then follow up the shoots to see whether any are worn out, and need cutting right out to make room for others. Some varieties seldom make more than one shoot from the base. In this case, the cutting out would be from points where most of the growth commences. Having removed all worn-out branches, the remaining ones are spread out and tied in position, care being taken that no two cross each other. No definite arrangement can be made for all - varieties, as they differ a great deal •jn habit of growth. Some may have two long arms spread along the fence; others will grow straight up and branch out. Others, again, may be trained-against a wall or a fence in a perfect fan shape. Having tied the main branches into position, twiggy growths and dead wood should be removed. Then each shoot from the main stem should be cut back to about the second or third bud, accord-

OPERATIONS FOR JUNE. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Plant cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce. Plant out onions for early crop. A well-manured, well-drained, firm soil is necessary; also a sunny position. Do not plant near hedges or other gross vegetation. Sow a few early dwarf peas. Put in a few early potatoes in a sunny, sheltered' position. Prepare new asparagus beds. Put out rhubarb roots in rows about 4ft. apart, with three feet between the plants. If old clumps are to be divided, use the • outside pieces, each with one or two buds. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Old rose bushes that ar& not doing well may be taken up and ' have their roots pruned. Replant in well-manured ground. Yellow antirrhinum edged with blue lobelia will make a good showy bed. Bulbs are coming into bloom. They last longer if picked just before the buds open. Hardy trees and shrubs may be planted. Cuttings of roses, hydrangeas, and many shrubs may be put in. Well hardened-off seedlings of antirrhinum, pansy, carnation, stock, viola, larkspur, etc., may be planted 1 out. Perennial plants that may be put out now into- good soil are geums, heleniums, thalictrum, statice, Michaelmas daisy, aconitum, achillea, stokesia. Prune hedges of Lawsonianas and other hardy evergreens.

ing to its strength and according to the space it is expected to cover with its growth. The ends of the main branches will also need cutting back to a strong bud. The rambler rose should be pruned as soon as it has finished flowering. Some of the older shoots should be cut away down to the ground, and new ones tied up to take their places. Strong healthy shoots that are needed for the next season’s bloom should be cut well back and tied into position. This may be done now, if not already done. Probably the worst of all soils to bring into condition for roses is the worn-out soil. Sandy soils have very little moisture-holding capacity, and even a very light loam will hold more moisture. The ideal soil for roses is a friable loam overlying a clay sub-soil; and soil of this description needs very little preparation. Roses always like a good sub-soil, and when once established, will carry even through long dry periods with the minimum amount of water-, if a good clay sub-soil is present. Polyantha roses are best pruned so as to encourage strong growth from the roots. Old, worn-out growths should be cut out at the base. Gooa strong, healthy growth should be shortened back a little. Planting Shrubs and Trees. Start well by leaking a deep and wide hole. Looseir the by thorough digging and working. With heavy, badly drained soil, general drainage is necessary before successful planting can be done. If manuring is necessary, it should be done at time of planting. Bonedust or well-hotted manure, or both, mixed well in with the bottom soil will help to feed the plants for a long while; but the roots should not be allowed to touch the manure when planting. A little fine soil should always be. sifted about the roots. Cleanly cut off any damaged or lacerated roots. They are of no use and may cause disease. Also remove any badly balanced roots, so as to keep the root system as symmetrical as possible. This means the removal of any abnormally developed roots. Plants from a good nursery should require little or no root pruning. Set the plants in on a slightly convex surface, and give the roots a downward direction as much as possible. Plant firmly. Tread the soil about the roots so as to make close contact between root and soil; air-pockets are harmful. If there is any chance of the plant roots being irritated by wind or other cause, stake the plant firmly. Thus give the plant a chance to develop the fine root hairs that absorb the soil foods. If possible, avoid planting while the ground is wet and sticky. The plants may be heeled in, i.e., covered with soil until the soil is in a fit condition. If there is a weak side to the root system, make this side face north, so that it will get as much sun warmth as possible. On no account leave the plants exposed to the wind and sun. The proper place for roots is in the ground, not on top of it. Plant as soon as possible after delivery. Leave the planting of frost-tender plants until the spring, otherwise i will be necessary to cover them with scrim or other covering to protect them from frost. Be careful to plant at the right depth, just as deep as the plants were in the nursery. This is particularly important with surface-rooting plants.