BACK FROM RHODESIA

Northern Advocate, 7 February 1928, Page 3

BACK FROM RHODESIA

A NEW ZEALANDER’S IMPRESSIONS.

MISS CAMPBELL INTERVIEWED.

There returned to Whaugarei on Thursday last Miss M. B. Campbell, who, at the end of 1920, vacated her position as infant mistress at the Hora Hora School to take up similar work in Rhodesia. The appointment was made under the system of exchange of teachers existing between the New Zealand and Rhodesian Educational authorities.

Last year, Miss Eox-Smith, of Rhodesia, took Miss Campbell’s place at Hora Hora, but she has now returned to Africa.

Miss Campbell departed from Auckland on December 31, 1926, arriving eight weeks and three days later at Gatoondba, her new sphere of activities.

Miss Campbell was well pleased with her sojourn in Rhodesia, and made many keen observations of the country and its people. She favoured a “Northern Advocate” reporter with some interesting impressions in an interview.

THE TRAIN JOURNEY,

Although Salisbury is the capital, Bulawayo, three nights and two days journey from Capetown, is the nominal centre of Ehodcsia. Miss Campbell’s first impressions of Africa were not very pleasant, for on the way to Bulwayo the train travelled through desert and Kaffir lands, and a whole day went by without a trace of a white man’s dwelling. The only break in the monotony was during the traversing of the rocky Hex Elver Pass, which reminded the visitor very , much of typical New Zealand mountain scenery. Passenger accommodation on the train was splendid, and every facility, including baths and comfortable sleeping quarters, was provided. When Bulawayo was reached the quiet and absence of bustle was soon apparent to the new arrival. The people were happy and nowhere jvas the hungry money look to be seen.

THE NATIVES. Set apart beyond the city area was the 'kaffir location where the natives have their homes in kraals. The Ehodesian natives are mostly Zulus, much to be preferred to their Kaffir brethren in Capetown, who had suffered from the recent granting of equal franchise to white and black. A native would not think of using a Bulawayo but the white pedestrian in Capetown was jostled on all sides by uncouth blacks, who did not know' what it was to wash.

Black labour was very cheap and every European family employed at least three, a cook, a general and a piecanin, the latter to run errands and perform odd jobs. These three “boys” as they were termed could be engaged at a total outlay of £2 a mouth, and the provision of one meat meal a day. The nafaves lived on a moalie diet, and each hut had its patch of maize. Eateh~with butter, and nicely cooked the mealie was very palatable. After wmrk was done at eight o’clock, the grown boys might be seen slate in hand going off to evening lessons in the Mission school. The ‘ ‘ boys ’ ’ were not very intelligent, but there was nothing they would not do on the off chance of a bonsella or “tip,” They were ideal as house servants', and for this purpose the negro straight from the veldt, unspoiled by town influence, Avas to be preferred.

FARMING PEOSPECTS. Ehodcsia was a land of great mineral wealth, and with irrigation w’ould become a large exporter of dairy produce. There wore numerous farms, often running into thousands of acres. The dairyman did not think of using machines as native labour was much cheaper. All milk had to bo scalded before it w r as affected by the heat. On account of the ravages of the deadly tsetse fly Ehodesian domestic animals looked sickly and poor compared with the Now Zealand type. Tobacco planting- was quite well established, and cotton was in its infancy. Every farm possessed its mealie patch and many also had about ten acres of sunflowers, and a smaller area of monkey nuts.

EAINLEBS WINTER.

The Rhodesian winter, during which the rivers -dried up, w r as the ideal season. Day after day the sun rode in a cloudless sky, and the heat w T as tempered by sharp mornings and evenings. The tropical rains of summer commenced to fall at the beginning of November. October was known as the suicide month, during which the heat worked up day after day until the white man felt he could bear it no longer. Then came the blessed rain, which w r as accompanied by electrical disturbances of great brilliancy. Miss Campbell said that she did not find the heat excessive, and noticed it more while visiting Adelaide in Australia, than on any occasion during her absence, VICTORIA FALLS. Miss Campbell was much impressed with the Victoria Falls, and even a party of American tourists had to admit that “Niagara was only a small splash in comparison,” The Fall’s hotel w r as world renowned as providing tl.b very best of accommodation. Not far from the Falls were the wonderful Zambabwe Ruins, made famous by “She,” and “King Solomon’s Mines.” The ruins were really wonderful and Were worth

visiting several times. Although in some places the edifice reached huge dimensions no cement substance w r as used in the construction, and the stones were all dovetailed into one another. RIDER HAGGARD. The Haggard family were old colonists in Rhodesia, and Miss Campbell was informed by one who knew the members intimately, that most of the descriptive portion of Eider Haggard’s books were written by a brother, resident near Bulawayo, “SCHELM MISSUS.” During the Victoria Falls’ trip Miss Campbell heard lions roaring near at hand, but did not encounter any of the African beasts of prey except a leopard. Caged in the Bulawayo Park was the handsomest and largest lion in captivity. Snakes were the great aversion of the European. It was not safe to sit down anywhere without a rug, and going round the Bulawayo golf links at least three of the reptiles were usually encountered. In such, instances the black caddie would cry “Schelm Missus,” and while the sportswoman made off, would decapitate the peril with a cleverly flung stone, DUSTY SPORTS. i

Unless fond of sport Miss Campbell does not advise anyone to visit Rhodesia, where games are the salt of existence to the white population. All the British sports are played, and it is common for a tennis team to travel two days for a game. Winter sports were played on grounds as hard as concrete, and' at times the ball was lost sight of in clouds of dust during a hockey match. In Johannesburg and Durban natives formed sports leagues of their own. MORNING TEA PARADE. The blacks, who lived on one meal a day, imagined their masters were always eating. Everyone partook of morning tea and in the smaller towns it was most picturesque to see streams of piccanin going through the streets with trays balanced on their heads on which were set the "bosses” tea and sandwiches. The whole country slept from one o’clock to three in the afternoon, the hours of the siesta, and then followed the Rhodesian playtime. Another institution was the sundowner. Just as the sun was sinking below the horizon Europeans foregathered for a drop of something to drink, and a dance on the wide stoep.

Wireless was not very successful in Rhodesia, because such long distances had to be combated in reception. Johannesbug was the nearest transmitting station.

Rhodesians were very British and, because of the line wartime reputation established by our troops overseas, New Zealanders were thought much of in the country.

TRAVELLING FACILITIES,

The Rhodesian Education Department gave its employees every assistance in seeing the country, and teachers could travel on the railways once a year at half rates. This privilege' was usually availed of in April, as at Christmas any Rhodesian could travel at excursion’ rates. Miss Campbell found the Rhodesian teachers very well travelled. After three years of service three months’ leave on full pay was granted, and after five years teachers -were entitled to six months’ holiday. RHODESIAN EDUCATION. Although Miss Campbell considered that socially a teacher had much better status in Rhodesia than in New Zealand, she did not consider that the standard of education was nearly so high. Like most young countries Rhodesia was inclined to be arrogant and resented being informed that improvements could be made in the system.

On account of the rvidely scattered towns all the big schools were boarding schools. Classes never exceeded 30 and school hours were from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Many white children were spoilt by the piccanin influence. Instead of having a nurse maid a boy would be brought up until he reached school age by a negro youth, wdio knew few words of English except garbage expressions he had picked up. It was unthinkable for a piccanin to remonstrate with a white boy, and so the child, w'hen he started his school career, ivould object strongly to interference by his teacher.

A VAST COUNTRY.

To give an instance of the vastness of the country Miss Campbell said that she had corresponded with, and endeavoured to meet Miss C. K. Marsh, of Hawke’s Bay, the second New Zealander teaching in Rhodesia. They had not, come in contact until they met on the return steamer. Asked if she would like to return to Rhodesia, Miss Campbell said that the country had a great appeal, and she might go back some day. However, after her travels she was well contented with New Zealand.