HOME DRESSMAKING.

Northern Advocate, 14 October 1893, Page 2

HOME DRESSMAKING.

THI BASQUE !3 THE FOUNDATION

OF ALL DRES3 CUTTING.

A Few EmeU That Mast Wot Bo Forgotten. How to Cut Blouses and Bolero Jackets. Various Kinds of Fastenings— How to Finish a Basque.

[Copyright, 1608. by American Praas Aseoola- - tion.]

The basque being the foundation of all dress cutting, the novice should learn at the Very outset all its possibilities. With a good diagram of a basque fitting In measurement the prospective wearer of the garment planned one can cut a princess robe, a wrapper of any style, a tailor gown, aridinjf habit, an evening dress, a blouse, » hhv zer and a coat of any description. The principle is exactly the same, with such variations as the exigencies of the case may require. It needs but to be lengthened to make a tight coat or ulster and to have its different parts lengthened and widened to form a princess dress.

To do this the different parts should be cot to four inches longer than the skirt from waist downward and the front pieces eat on; a slant so that the bottom of each front measures 20 inches, the front side pieceathe same, the back side gores 97, and the back breadths should measure the whole width of the goods, and if that is narrow another breadth should be added to the back and plaited In doss so that the -whole skirt l&ay fall free and open, in the approved shape. The four inches extra length are taken up in fitting to th« figure. . ..,, The princess should be tried on with the seams outward and fitted like any other waist. The skirt is to be faced with wigan or crinoline about IB inches deep, and to the inner side is stitched » facing of linen or alpaca, and where the dress is a very handsome one several narrow pinked ruffles are sewed to a silk foundation and oat stitched to the wigan. . Hiding habits are cut in the same way, but the lines, are drawn rigidly and with angles wherever they can be introduced, notably the square high collar and the square postilions and square pocket lids. In cutting jackets the dressmaker only needs to know the style wanted. If a reefer or blazer, the basque is lengthened, and ths darts are not taken in. Pockets are added. If a long jacketVs desired, the same general rules prevail, and it is easy to make one with strict attention to the pressing and care that all outside stitching should be perfectly straight. Blouses are cut like the French waists, but the lower part should be three to four inches longer, cut perfectly straight around and hemmed. An elastio is then drawn through, and the waist buttons so that the superfluous length falls down over the top of the skirt.

Bolero jackets, Eton jackets and flgaroa are all cut from the original basque pattern. For Eton the waist Is outlined with the two side back pieces and is cut down to a point just overlapping the gathers of the back of the skirt and out in front like tile diagram, and it is easy to «ut, as it is perfectly simple and seamless. Eton jackets may or may not have sleeves, but if they do they should be plain coat sleeve gathered rather full at the top, having a suspicion of gigot only, and they are worn over a shirtwaist.

The bolero is out Just like the Eton in front, but the back is all in on* piece and is cut straight across.

The present mode of trimming waists is go distinctive that it requires a description. It consists principally in some form of a bertha or bretelles, and these are so complex in appearance as to frighten the novice, yet they are really simple when one understands the first principle, which is this— the half circle. All the berthas and high plaited capes and like trimming gain their style by the plaiting of goods that are cut out in a half circle, so that what is » small plait at the point becomes a large and loose one at the outer edge. The diagram shows one style of this trimming both applied and in outline, and with that as a guide every woman can understand the. principle, and. the clever one will vary it according to the needs of the case. This can be applied to high or low necks for children and old women. It can be plain, trimmed with lace, fringe or passementerie, or it can be lined with contrasting material The corners mayjbe cut off , or it may be vandvked. There is no limit to the variations an intelligent dressmaker may evolve. Made of wide lace oversight silk it would garnish theplainest frock. Waists are made with high collars and. with the neck cut quite low, finished with ruffles. The latter require little care, as the neck has but to be piped or bound, but the high collar requires special treatment. It must be made with a silk lining, awigan or crinoline interlining and the outside. The lining and outside are basted on together, the interlining on the other side. Then it should be stitched around the. upper edge, beginning from the center and sewing forward. Thenturn the collar, bringing the lining oh one side 'and the dress goods on the other. Baste this strongly with the outside and interlining together to the waist, beginning with a notch in the center of the collar, carrying it forward from each side from the center seam in the back. Then faoe it down very neatly. The dressmaker will do well to measure the fronts of the. waist before she puts the collar on to see if they are exactly alike. Otherwise she will have to rip it off, and it never looks so well again.

The finish of a basque is a very nervous job, and the careful dressmaker will see that the finishing touches to the basque or waist are put on before the skirt is done, for in tfie rush and hurry of the last work some detail taay be alighted and spoil the appearance of the whole.

Whether buttons or hooks are used M fastening depends upon the style of waist, but the moat of waists now close invisibly With hooks. The space where these are to be sew«d on should be marked with a blue pencil at exact dUtanots. They can never b« tewed on correctly "by the ese," and put on unevenly they pucker the waist.

Ouvb Hasps*.