Grey And Watercress Green

Manawatu Times, Volume 64, Issue 96, 26 April 1939, Page 14

Grey And Watercress Green

You will remember that various delicious tones of grey were introduced into the colour cards last season, writes the Daily News’ London correspondent. Grey will be seen again this year—a kind of blurred grey with a hint of pink in it, may be, or a suspicion of blue, or perhaps a dash of mauve. You know the kind of tone? Looked at from one angle it appears grey and nothing but grey. Viewed from another it makes you prepared to swear it is more like pale violet, and so on. Most intriguing, because it sets people guessing. Look out for the grey nuances.

Then watch for green again. The watercress shade is triumphant, and rightly so, because it is neither startlingly bright nor depressingly dark, but a gay and happy medium. Whether navy blue will remain in favour I am not quite sure. One designer gives an emphatic “yes” in reply to my query; another says “No, though the lighter blue shades will be in the running.” But, like black, navy blue never goes right out of the picture, so if it suits you I should say “stick to it.” There are so many pleasant things to be done in the way of ringing the changes with a black or navy suit that I cannot imagine either being left in the cold any season. So far I see little prospect of any dramatic new silhouette, either by day or by night, once fashions settle down. Day skirts will be made to “swing” as they have for the last few months, or else they will be pencil slim. It all depends upon the individual figure, and the type of jacket, so that the waist is made to appear smaller above the graduated fullness. And waists, I am told,

green and brown are correct colours. Jackets of wind-proof poplin—or, perhaps of wool on one side and poplin on the other—are indispensable worn over a shirt. They are for the most part of waist-length and cut in basque, bellhop, or boxy style. A cotton jacket with elastic shoulder pads and a contrast yoke is also liked. Windbreakers are a satisfactory garment, specially when made with elastic waistbands and attacher hoods that roll down into collars. Jackets can introduce colour and many of them are reversible, one surface being plaid the other a solid tone; but embroidery is considered a badge of the amateur. Ice-blue, scarlet, or navy parkas of wamsutta ski cloth, or Byrd cloth, and trimmed with timber-wolf, skunk, or lapin, are particularly good-looking and practical. Long jackets, called “winddresses,” extending to the finger-tips, made of water-proofed silk, are a novelty. Hoods, knit or made of velveteen, visored caps, Scotch caps, and caps of raffia mesh (the latter for those who like their heads cool) sometimes supplemented by ear muffs, repel the icy winds. Gloves are important, for they must be warm without being so bulky as to handicap the wearer. Poplin ones with leather palms are successful.

Ideas From London’s Season

I are terribly important in 1939. With the pencil tight skirt the coat is rather fuller, and frequently longer, well below hip length not being considered out of place. Decide which coat style best suits you, as well as which skirt.

Exaggerated shoulders are going, or rather have gone. Especially in day dresses they were a nuisance, giving an awkward “bundled” feeling underneath coats. Slight fullness will be allowed, but nothing like the stiffened, sticking up and out points we had last season. So I am told, and I applaud the decision. Sleeves set plainly into armholes, or at most with small darts on the undersides to give a suspicion of shapeliness, are to be the order of day time dresses. Coat sleeves, too, are to be less flamboyant, and I have seen a very nice new line that may appeal. All round the top of the coat is a deep yoke which comes to the points of the shoulders, and the main parts, including the sleeves, are set flatly into it. The back of the jacket is cut to flare slightly towards the hem, while the front hangs straight. I said both day and evening lines would eventually show little change, but perhaps the statement was rather sweeping, for we always get something unexpected in the way of evening ideas as the season goes on. At rresent, however, designers seem content with the mermaid line as the alternative to the semi-crino-line. The full crinoline proved too worrying in crowded ballrooms during the Christmas and New Year festivities, so most girls will decide against it when planning the new wardrobe. If they feel they must have bouffant frocks they will

probably choose those which rely upon gathered ribbons or gathered tulle flounces to provide the effect, rather than resort to whalebones. Mention of ribbons reminds me of the vogue they are certain to enjoy. You can have the skirt of a crinoline style dance dress made entirely of wide ribbon, the rows gathered one above the other and sewn to a slim net foundation. The waist-line is firmly defined, and above it comes a small, fitted bodice, made of two strips of ribbon, if it is wide enough, or more if it is on the narrow side. Ribbon about five inches wide is best for the skirt, so you would have to cut into two widths for the bodice. If you choose black satin or moire ribbon have very slender flesh coloured shoulder straps, so that you appear to be strapless without relying on bones for the effect. By the way you may be offered stiffened pannier skirts for evening wear, but don’t take them too seriously, because they are not likely to stay. Tulle and ribbons go well together for bouffant skirts. I saw an advance model done in pale green, the little bodice made entirely of shirred pale green tulle, and the skirt alternating flounces of the tulle with others of satin ribbon. Narrow at the waist, the flounces gradually widened until the lowest one measured about twelve inches, and this was made of the tulle. Ribbons of bright colours, some of them reversible, are used for scarves to fold and tuck into the neck-lines of day frocks and coats. Pretty little evening capes are made of them, too, and Jf you see a specially attractive waist belt which gleams as though sprinkled with diamonds, you will probably be right in thinking it is patterned ribbon with the design emphasised by diamente or crystal.