Snoods, Wimples And Turbans

Manawatu Times, Volume 64, Issue 80, 5 April 1939, Page 14

Snoods, Wimples And Turbans

IITOST sensational of the hats now showing at New York for early spring are the persistent trifles without head sizes, whose miniature crowns perch on the coiffure like volatile j. kes, writes Helen Johnson Keyes in the Christian Science Monitor. The type is six months old, but refuses to age and pass into the discard. The uncertainty of the pose which these dolls hats must assume has brought snoods into the limelight. Made of coarse mesh and in many colohrs, these are built into hats, and pocket the hair from the back of the crcwn where they are sewn in to the nape of the neck, anchoring hat and coiffure. Such models ax*e co-oi’dinated with late afternoon, the restaurant dining hour and the theatre.

Sailor hats will be,worn with wimples. The classic wimple is bberally interpreted, and although it does at times swathe the cheeks and uphold the chin as with a rampart, at others it is a drapery fashioned of silk or voile-jerccy, of veiling or net, that softly frames the back of the head. Sailor hats are as various as their wimples, their crowns modestly retiring to a height of one, two, or three inches, or rising to a peaked tower or to a stovepipe height and contour, so that to the uninitiated their appearance scarcely demonstrates their name. But when one realises that milliners are b' ilding entire collections around one silhouette—or around what is preserved as the name of a very flexible range of shapes—a ray of light penetrates the obscurity. Sailors are an excellent style to wear with tailored sui J s in town and for travelling. Bonnets appear in sevei'al guises. One tyue is a poke in front and fits close to the head in the back; others hug tl ? fa;e and turn up in the back. Very charming are those with fluted brims. Marjorie Dunton features such a type in starched lace. They go well with “little girl” costumes. Turbans are to the fore. To the fore indeed, for many ere thickly draped in front and tipped low over the brow. This is true of the popular Tunisian type. Many obscure their derivation by broken outlines and profile effects. Robert Galer builds one which he calls a “turban with beret feeling.” Often turbans wear fluttering wimples. They go attractively with such ensembles as are appropriate fer dining and the theatre. Incredibly high peaked crowns or telescoped funnel crowns with small mushroom, undulating, or profile brims are a favourite spectator s.'orts type and are even permitted to accompany town tr:!ormades. Galer makes such a hat in one piece. The brim is tilted over the face and rolled high at the back, the surplus material being folded into a drape in the crown. Done in pastel felts, it is a striking model for town wear. The ope.? crown continues. Pillboxes are much Sv-n and sre a convenient “for-all occasions” hat Yney, too. assume disguises, acquiring, fnr instance, high crowns. One seer- was *ashionel of veiling and the entire top rose to a conical spike built of suede flowers in variegated colours. Many ha/e cuff brims and are draped with wimples or attached by snoods, or self-fabric loops that pin to the coiffure, or shell barrettes that clamp the hat to the hair, or shell pins that pass through the wimple and the hair. Dress fabrics are revealed in such abundance that we wonder if they can really belong to the architecture of hats. Here are jerseys of many textures, taf-

Forecast For Women’s Hats

fetas, surahs, ottomans, prints (to match up with frocks), ducoed silks, crepes, eyeletted belting, net and vedirgs. Veiling is used to build entire hats, sometimes as many as 30 yards be : ng employed for o model. It is made in fine meshes in many geometric shapes, and by means of do s that introduce colour or the white sparkle of crystal, is developed into patterns. Some veilings are ombr', some two-toned, others bordered with a contrasting colour. The two Pst are useful in developing the striped effects modish at the moment. Naturalistic garden flowers of all sorts, big and little, and a few fruits are used in conjunction with v heat and dyed grasses, with feather., and ribbons, which themselves present an amazing variety. The mixed bouquet is the thing, whether formed into spikes, wreaths, bunches or under-brim facings. Velvet and marabou flowers are seen on some formal hats. Fabricated birds sit in jaunty postures on the tops of crowns. Most of these are of pasted plumage. To ornament sports models there are stylised birds of skived wood worked to resemble plumage. Wings and wing effects from pasted ostrich ai*e effective. Ostrich itself appeal's in several versions, and iridescent coq feathers build entire hats or decorate fedoras and other semi-tailored types. The most bizarre trimming which the season has produced is coloured threeprong combs which are inserted from underneath through the mesh tops of crowns, where their teeth boldly px'oject, the point of one tooth being adorned with a tiny metal or '•empesition ornament—a pony, a poodle a fan or a flower

Stitching in a contrasted colour is effective on taffeta or surah bodies; and for more formal models the fabric may be shirred after which tha threads are removed, which gives an irregular and crushed appearance, mysterious and interesting. Shirred fabric cords also lend surface interest tc soft materials. Spectator sports and sports models use appliques of coloured felts and suede, wool embroidery, and grosgrain cockades. Yellow, both true and overcast with green, and the amber and mustard tone bright pink, crushed raspberry, fuchsia; all the violet range; geranium-red, kellygreen, royal blue, and navy are basic. Some favourite combinations are the f ’owing:— Violet v/ith lime, fuchsia and bright pink; lime with violet, black and light brown; turquoise with fuchsia; royalblue with • kelly-green; moss-green and wine; black and fuchsia; beige, fuchsia, flesh, deeper pink and light blue; violet with pale blue; pink, blue, green, rust an! red; gold, red and purpl?. It will be seen that many colours un>e to give draVna to hat trimmings. They are used crushed together in small quantities and usually against a body which is black, natural, toast-coloured, brown or navy.