The Attack on Everest

Manawatu Times, Volume 61, Issue 128, 2 June 1936, Page 7

The Attack on Everest

POSSIBILITIES OF TROUBLE United Press Association —By Electric Telegraph.—Copyright. Received Monday, 9.20 p.m. LONDON, June I. Mr. Ruttlcdgc, leader of the Everest expedition, in a wireless message to tho Daily Telegraph from camp one, says a report from the meteorologist at Alipore ou Friday indicated a temporary weakening of the monsoon. Simultaneously tho wind in tho Mount Everest region veered strongly to the north-west and began blowing snow in great sheets troni the mountain. This opportunity would not be missed by the climbing party on Saturday in resuming their advance up the east llougbuk glacier. “It will take two days to climb the last pyramid, but it might be done m oue with luck,” said Mr. Ruttlcdgc. Mr. Norton recalls that tho conditions arc almost identical with 1924. but then there was no wireless and they could not discover whether there was a monsoon or a local disturbance. Ho considers if the monsoon arrives in earnest while the present climbers are high up things will bo black indeed.

In Peril From Two Quarters HERCULEAN TASK AHEAD. Received Tuesday, 2 a.m. LONDON, June 1. Experts point out that in the most favourable circumstances it will take the Everest climbers seven or eight days to reach the summit. They will face a double peril, firstly, from tho continuance of the north-west winds, in which it has been stated no man can live; secondly, in the return of tho monsoon snows which bring avalanches and may cut off the climbers from their base.

The climbers, therefore, can only succeed if the north-west winds now blowing the snow from the mountains drop before they reach the higher ridges and the lull in the monsoon lasts until they have safely ascended. Mr Norton, leader of the Everest expedition of 192-1, opines that the climbers have still a chance of success, it will take two days if the conditions improve to reach camp three, and another to camp four. They may push on to camp jive the next morning and make camp six on the sixth day.