GARDEN & FEILD

Manawatu Times, Volume 61, Issue 11, 14 January 1936, Page 10

GARDEN & FEILD

(Specially.written for the “Alanawatu Daily Times” by “Lorna”)

ROUTINE WORK IN THE BORDERS Cut down early flowering herbacesus plants as soon as they have ceased . olooming, mulch with rich manure and apply liquid manure with a view of getting a second crop of flowers. Clip dead flower heads from rock plants, and continue to cut them back '» after they have finished blooming. •Propagate violets if plenty of water is available to keep them moving. Sow seeds of auriculas and polyanthus primroses ■ for next spring’s display, also such things as primula malacoides, wallflowers, anemones and ranunculir — 1 — -•'"••••

Keep all newly planted bedding stuff thoroughly Yvelf watered.' Keep the lioe going freely through the flower borders. Complete the plantings of dahlias and chrysanthemums. . Continue to plant out autumn flower-

ing annuals. Mulch all newly planted shrubs and • roses, and keep seed heads gathered off choice shrubs. ’ Take cuttings of. pinks and aubrietia for autumn bedding out. Place them in partial shade and keep well watered. The Vegetable Garden. I Continue to sow peas and beans for rotation crops. • If water is not available for the growing crops, the next best thing is to keep the surface soil hoed to a line . tilth. J Wet out late heading cauliflower, 1 savoy cabbage, kale, celery, leeks, brussels sprouts, etc. Keep all the cabbage family well , sprinkled with tobacco dust. ‘ Keep runner beans well watered and I on no account allow any of the seed • pods to mature. Sow seed of carrot, parsnip, beetroot, > etc., for succession. Complete sowings of the melon fain-

Labour Saving With Lawn Edges. Cutting the extreme edges of lawns is generally a rather wearisome busi-

ness, involving as it usually does the

use el. shears. Where a lawn comes i against a flower bed, it is, of course, possible to cut rigut up to the edge if a roller-driven type of mower is used. But even with this kind of machine, a difficulty always arises if the grass is near to an ornamental wall, a garage, shed, or. fact, anything of a similar nature. Brick and stone edgings of paths can also cause the same trouble. A good way of getting over this diffi- » culty, and at the same time both saving labour and actually improving the appearance of the lawn, is to make a small “trench,” with vertical sides. About, three inches is a reasonable depth, and the bottom should be well flattened and made as hard as possible to discourage the growth of weeds. It is convenient to make the trench exactly the width of a hoe, so tftat it can be instantly cleared of weeds, leaves and grass clippings by merely drawing the hoe along it.

Loss of Nitrogen in Winter.

There have been many complaints this spring and early summer regarding the slow, growth of plants. Few gardeners realise the after-effects of a verywet period such as was experienced this season. The heavy rains, wash all soluble matter out of the surface soil in which most plants have their roots. Therefore growth after a wet season is more often than not poor in spring unless the fertilising matter is made good, which is chiefly nitrate. It is well known rain absorbs nitrogen from the air, and as the ground dries air and more nitrogen enter it, eventually being converted by the bacteria in the soil into nitrate in spring when temperature rises. Growth is then able to go forward again, but much too slowiy in most cases. Therefore the scanty supplies in the soil must be supplemented with artificial fertilisers. As these dissolve readily they can be used by the plants at once. For the purpose may be used nitrate of soda, or sulphate of ammonia, about three-quar-ters of an ounce per square yard of the former and the latter at a little lower Tate. Sulphate of ammonia is the better of the two for rainy districts as it is not liablo to be washed away. At other seasons these fertilisers are best used in liquid form, after first giving the plants a good soaking of water.

Celosias as Pot Plants. Besides being highly ornamental bedding plants, celosias are good for growing in pots and will often last well on through the winter. As a rule celosias are plants from 18 inches to two feet iu height,, their plumes drooping gracefully forward; there are also short,

;* dwarf varieties. The compost for the .< pots should be three parts good loam, ■’ one of leaf mould and sand with a little of good rotted manure added to it. "When the plants are established, pinch ) out the first flowers for forming dwarf, bushy plants, and this can be repeated j a second time with good results. An “ artificial manure like Clay’s fertiliser will give them a splendid healthy appearance.

Pentstemons,

Although actually a perennial, the

pentstemon is ofter treated as an animal, as seeds sown now, will, if planted out as soon as large enough, produce au abundance of flowers the lirst season. Then, from the base of the established plants, cuttings can be inserted for producing more plants if wanted. The pentstemon will succeed in any good garden soil, particularly if of a heavy nature. They may be planted in beds or in groups of not iess than a dozen plants in fair sized borders. When raised from seed they may be had ia many shades of pink, crimson, scarlet, purple, mauve and white, and will provide a brilliant display in beds and borders throughout the summer months, and producing a profusion of flowers on tall spike 3 excellent for cutting as well. Looking Backward. The foregoing remarks were made by a irardener and most of us will fully

agree that.the same experience has befallen; most of us, regarding the noticeable fact that.a succession of pests and diseases have followed each other. When one pest has been overcome another arises. First, all the roses became hopelessly mildewed. .This was overcome by raking the ground over, making it quite smooth, and then before any leaves were showing, lime was bought and slacked, and the ground covered until it looked like a fall of snow, no further trouble has since been experienced. The next trouble camo in the kitchen garden, all the gooseberry bushes beiiig covered with green caterpillars.. Hand picking was resorted to, but to no avail, the bushes being left bare of leaves. Next season, noticing that there were more caterpillars on the ground I’haii were picked off, a ring of soot was placed eiose round each bush and every day a forked stick was used to give eath tree a shake. Very soon the bushes were all free of caterpillars, and as they all died before they could turn into chrysalises it stopped their breeding and no further trouble came that way. All tlio nut trees have been infested with maggots in the nuts for about six ■years. This, the owner has not yet overcome. Then the black currant trees developed big bud, but that disappeared by picking off the big buds and burning them. The next trouble came in the flower garden. All the hollyhocks became badly diseased. Now the rule is that no plant shall be kept for more than two years, which keeps one fairly free from the disease, seeming as if the old roots get too far down to derive enough nourishment and fail to continue strongjand healthy. It is very noticeable that healthy plants, like healthy animals, are generally free from disease.

Rose trouble came next. They were badly damaged by “green fly,” but this was overcome by watering the roots with guano water. It is quite delightful doing this, and seeing in a day or two all their little dead bodies on the uranches. At one time carrots could not be grown. They were always destroyed by maggots. The ground was given a heavy dressing of lime, with the result that a perfect crop was obtained. Then the cinerarias became thick with black hairy caterpillars. The only remedy seems to be to hand pick them off. Asters have given much trouble owing to mildew. Heavy dressings of lime helped these and occasional waterings with chestnut compound. The tulips, too, got diseased. Tho only remedy seemed to be to burn all the affected bulbs and to commence again in a new piece of ground heavily treated with lime. If only we could find a few diseases which would attack the wild convolvulus, sorrel, couch grass, Californian thistles, etc., What a blessing it would be.

The Grey Poliaged Garden. Many have blue borders, red, etc., but the grey oorder is seldom seen, yet it is something .-at should be met with in every garden. It has a charm and fascination all its own together with a quiet restfulness that always pleases. During the long winter months this type of border still retains its charms and this in itself =Aould commend it to every plant lover. In making the border plenty of small pieces of broken rock or stone chippings should be mixed with the soil to ensure good drainage, and some sand. A icw boulders or pieces of. rock placed here and there add to its charm. Part of a large rock garden could also be given over to grey plants among which are Zauschneria, gypsophila rosea, stacyslanata, alyssum saxatile, veronica ineana, many of the saxifragas, androsace sarmentosa, campanula raineri and many others. Taller plants for.the back of a border could include the giant grey thistle, lavender in variety, artemesias, cineraria maratima, centcurea candimissia, senecio greyii, santolina ineana, together with carnations and members of the dianthus family. . Something of interest will be found for every corner and beyond a little pruning and top-dressing occasionally with lime, sand and leaf mould and judicious pruning, very little attention is required. Gypsophila, Bristol fairy is nice for growing near the back of the grey border and another thing which locks charming is clematis jackmanni planted in such a way at the back of the border tnat some of the growths trail upright on trellis or other background whilo a few fall over among tho taller grey plants. Its large purple flowers gain added beauty when seen in such a setting. Arranging Flowers.

Nothing is more interesting, whether it be in mansion or humble cottage, than the arrangement of flowers. A few flowers naturally arranged give a much more pleasing effect than a crowded arrangement of the same flowers. While a mass of flowers may appear more elaborate to the eye, it lacks originality. For instance, one prefers using seven flowers to an even number like eight, the uneven number allowing one to avoid symmetry, or equal balance, which arc hardly ever found in Nature. In choosing-receptacles for floral arrangements it is essential to study the colouring of the rooms and furniture so that tney blend as harmoniously as possible. Much depends upon the right sense of proportion and lines of the natural growth of flowers and foliage. Every arrangement of flowers should have some buds or half open blooms. The reckless cutting of flowers or stems which seem out,of place must be avoided. Rather wait until most of the flowers are in the vase and then take time in deciding which flower or leaf must be sacrificed. The beauty of your arrangement largely depends on this. If the foliage hangs low always bear in mind to have the tips bend slightly upwards, as it is only the natural tendency to grow towards the sun. This can easily be accomplished by rubbing and slnghtly bending the tips with the thumb and forefinger for a few seconds.

By the same method flowers such as the single chrysanthemum will have a natural “droop” for a dinner table decoration and give a very artistic .effect. Colour, combinations greatly depend upon the surroundings. Frequently a bold splash of maroon or dark blue will give a delicate, arrangement an individuality of its own.