Lace is Back into fashion

Manawatu Times, Volume 60, Issue 196, 21 August 1935, Page 14

Lace is Back into fashion

*1 A es LTHOUGH the English word lace original]y referred to a wa "-"W cord or thread used for tying pieces of clothing together, it has come to apply to all the intricate patterns that can be formed of thread either by needle, bobbin or machine. Not only from the fingers of those with long hours of leisure in convent or lonely hamlet did those exquisite traceries originate; but many were the high born ladies who whiled away monotonous hours in inventing new designs and stitches for the ever-growing elaboration of the “cut out” work from which lace originated. The “cut out” means open spaces, cut or drawn from material after it had been embroidered, leaving an openwork tracery. At first the threads used were mostly of gold or silver, but later flax and finer linen and silken threads —even human hair—were used as the patterns grew more elaborate. Mary, Queen of Scots, had a piece of lace given her by the Countess of T.onnnv wnven from her white hail*.

The Queens of history have always been responsible for the popularity of lace. Unhappy Mary Stuart herself bridged much of the tedium of her captivity by her skill with the needle in designing

“after Nature, birds, fishes, beasts and flowers.” It was just about in her time that lace first became ( popular. The arrival of Catherine de Medici in France not only herald-

cd an era of great extravagance in dress, but she brought with her new designs for lace work. This quickly spread a taste for lace to all classes who could afford it. Catherine also brought with, her the magnificent pearls she afterwards gave to her daughter-in-law. We read that “Mary 'Stuart wore these pearls when she was the newly made wife of Francis 11. Her hair fell upon her shoulders in rich curls and she had a stiff ruff of lace about, her throat.” It S *V was undoubtedly from Catherine that she adopted the “Medici” collar in which she is seen in her portraits so different from the V ruff worn by \ Elizabeth. The ward robe of Queen Elizabeth,

{Royalty {Has Always £oved £ace

whose dresses we are told numbered over 8000, contained petticoats bristling with lace of “Venys gold,” and almost every garment had at least an edging of “Venys silver.” The men were as great wearers of lace as the women, indeed, they worked at it too. They carried about with them little bags, called in derision “ridicules,’’ which were furnished with sewing implements all of gold, and often jewelled. Napoleon had special laces made for his own and the royal family’s wear. His orders were said to be the richest ever received by the French laceworkers. The Empress Josephine spent over a million francs a year on her clothes, most of which were trimmed with lace. It was, however, to Empress Eugenie that the Emperor gave the most costly gown ever made in France. It was made of finest Alencon.

Alencon, too, was used for the layette and christening clothes of Louis XIV., while his. twelve dozen frocks were also trimmed with this lace. Alencon lace is made to-day in Venice, but the styles of all laces have become so merged and copied that they are no longer

distinctive of one country. English Queens have done their best to encourage English lace. Queen Victoria used only English laces for her trousseau. So great became the vogue for Iloniton lace that the demand could not be supplied. The various villages and families jealously guarded their particular designs. Queen Victoria’s wedding dress was made at the village of Beer. It cost £IOOO and after it was made the pattern was destroyed. The wedding dresses of Queen Alexandra and Princess Alice were also} V? Honiton lace. Queen Mary has always done her utmost to encourage not only English hand-made, but Nottingham lace also. She has visited the Nottingham factories and ordered dresses for herself from the really lovely laces that are now being manufactured there. Since heavy duties have limited the use of foreign laces, Nottingham has been manufacturing, in cotton, copies of most of » the best known types of lace.