Memories of Lawrence

Manawatu Times, Volume 60, Issue 166, 17 July 1935, Page 9

Memories of Lawrence

Over a period of twenty-one years (1894-1914) I had charge of a medical mission in the hills of Galilee, in the district "where the Great Master lived and worked (says a writer in the “Daily Telegraph.’')

A few years before the war, after the usual long morning’s work amongst sick Jews and Arabs, I was sitting in my study. A slight figure, clad in a khaki drill suit’ and wearing a topee, travel-stained and somewhat weary, was seen approaching the house.

The first impression was that of a Gorman tramp, many of "whom were wont to roam the country. The clear, educated tones, with a suggestion of the “Oxford voice” or inflection, soon showed that one’s first impression was wrong.

The stranger introduced himself as T. E. Lawrence, and the object of his visit to tho place was to explore the ruins of the Crusading Castle at the summit of the hill around which the town was built. Lawrence had walked over tho rough mountain track up to the town, whicli stands 2700 ft above sea level. It was unusual for a European to travel thus, on foot and alone, in those days; in fact, it was a risky proceeding.

Wo visited together the remains of the Gastle. Ho was specially interested in a large cistern situated at a spot near the former citadel- A rope was sent for, and ho was soon standing on tho pile of stone which through the many years had accumulated at the 'bottom.

We then visited another cistern with a douiblc opening which ho also explored, and he at once confidently affirmed that it was not a cistern but a large granary. We were specially struck by his remarkable agility and muscular strength in ascending from the depths.

A short time previously a German acquaintance of mine, who had built a house in tho outer moat discovered what proved to he a secret passage apparently leading from the gorge below the town up towards the citadel. I told Lawrence, who seemed greatly interested, and it was soon arranged that ho should visit the secret passage at night. - On our arrival the three of us set to work with the aid of a lantern. Lawrence entered with zest into it all, although in the short time available wo could not make much impression on the fallen mass.

Lawrence stayed a few days with us, during which time I lent him some of my own garments to wear whilst his own wero laundered. He certainly travelled light as, apparently, he had with him on this particular journev only the barest necessities. The younger members of my family were soon “all over” him, indicating his love for children. Some weeks later a parcel of toys was sent out by his mother.

I believe Lawrence was gathering information for the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford. I have seen it stated that Lawrence started off on his Palestine tour with £IOO in his pocket. I have been told, however, that ho was able to return half of this amount to his father on his return to England. He seemed, even at that early age, to have delighted in the simple life, ipasily discarding the ordinary comforts.

On leaving me he travelled south, and in a letter received some days later he incidentally remarked that he had had an “encounter with a greasy gentleman with a dagger." I imagine it had actually been a pretty severe tussle. The man with the dagger had evidently got the worst of it, for Lawrence had wrested the dagger from him—“the handle was beautifully carved- ’ ’

He added laconically and eharaeterstically, “I threw him a couple of beshliques (lid) before parting from him." I should have very much liked to hear the details of that encounter.