GARDEN & FIELD

Manawatu Times, Volume LV, Issue 7199, 23 April 1930, Page 12

GARDEN & FIELD

Rdutine Work In the Garden. Overhaul and clean violets, and after applying some good fertiliser, fork up tne soil around tho plants. Remove all surplus old wood from climbing roses. Plant out polyanthus and wallflowers and all other hardy plants available. Continue to plant bulbs, anemones, and ranunculi. Hoe vigorously; dig early, well, and deeply. . , Plant out rooted carnation layers, violas and pink cuttings. Strike cuttings of fuchsias. Keep geranium and polorgonium cuttings a little on tho dry side. Plant evergreen shrubs and sow sweet P6 Kecip chrysanthemums -well supplied with liquid manure if good blooms are wanted, and vigorously disbud. ' Prepare rose beds. Sow' cauliflowers and cabbage for sirring use. . ' , Apply liquid manure to leeks, and earth up as needed. Sow turnips for spring use, and also rd.dish.es* Continue to sow hardy lettuce and winter prickly spinach. Store all root crops between layers of sand, ashes or dry earth. Plant out strawberry runners. Apples are ready for store when the pips are brown. Earth up celery. Bulbs in out-of-the-way Corner?. There are places in most gardens—* out of the way corners—where plants are seldom disturbed. It is there where one should contrive to have a few bulbs to greet one in the spring, year by year. Here wo can have a patch of snowdrops, early daffodils, seillas, muscari (grape hyacinths), b.-ias, and sparaxis to follow later,, and from tihen on the primulinus gladiolus will bloom freely. All of these bulbs can be regarded as “fixtures” when once they have been planted, and will seldom need disturbing. The removal of a littlo rough grass now and then is al that will be required, and year lifter yeas they will brighten tho out of the way corner and furnish a plentifol supply of cut blooms for the house. Colour Grouping in tho Flower Garden. For winter and spring blooming, a bed planted in yellow and orange shades is a real joy, and where this is a sunny and well drained border, it is olio that is easy to accomplish. There are lovely oran.go and yellow antirrhinums for a background, groups of calendulas ,marigold’s) and Iceland poppies to front them, with yellow violas for bordering. All these mentioned have a long flowering period, and if dead blooms are removed, tho period will be longer still.. The sunshiny shades are so wolcomo during the cold days that such a bed as described is well worth planning. Where the bed is large, yellow wallflowers and groups of yellow narcissi and trumpet daffodils could bo included, also yellow polyanthus. Axmerias.

The armcrias are a genus of plants that should be grown in every garden, as few plants give such all round satisfaction. They are not known by many flower lovers, under the name armeria, cushion pinks, and sea pinks, and thrift, being other names more generally used. There arc many varieties of these evergreen perennial plants, the colours, and foliage varying. They have n colour range from purple to lilac, from pale pink to deep rose tones, and white. Owing to their liking for rocky soil they make excellent subjects for growing in the crevices of a rock wall, and there are a few varieties which produce their heads of bloom on short stems, making them very suitable for ft carpeting effect in the rock garden. These have fine foliage and a.re good for bordering. The stiff, lengthy stems of other varieties make them spltablc for cut flower work, and one of their greatest assets is that in a sunny open position they will bloom throughout thp year. Some of the latest varieties have very large flower heads. The low-growing- bushes arc so neat and compact with the blooms correspondingly so, that those who love flowers of a neat growing habit, will be charmed with a good selection of the armeria family.

Weeding in the Rock Garden. Even in the first year after the making of the rock garden, other things, namely, weeds, will start growing in it. There arc some who consider that rock gardens are dreadful places to keep tidy. Certainly, if the rock garden once gets really weedy, with such things as couch grass, sorrel, etc., among the rocks and fissures, an enormous amount of labour will have to be expended on it, to get it again in order. Tho weeds in a rock garden or wall should never be allowed to got ahead. Make a fortnightly round of this garden, pulling up every weed showing; this does not take long. Half an hour will see it done in the case of a small rock garden and oven if the garden bo oup of fair size, about an hour will sec the work through. One hour a fortnight is not. much, and it will save days and days oi rvork later.

Trimming and Clearing Up. After they have flowered, there is hardly a rook plant which is not bcncfittod by being trimmed up. AM the dead flowers should first of all be clipped off, and then long straggly shoots trimmed back. Some rampant growers need severe treatment in this direction, or they quickly over-run thoir allotted area, spoiling themselves and smothering other choice subjects. Topdrcss the pockets with a little well decayed refuse from tho compost heap, or some good leaf mould. Liming. Tho next two months arc the best iu which to apply lime. Limo is of the greatest importance, and sinco ground Umo can bo had so cheaply, all gardeners should go in for it extensively. Lime acts like magic, as a soil improver, especially on stiff clay, and it quickly leads to a great increase in production. Soil Fumigating. The question of soil fumigating is one upon which thero are many opinions, and- some confusion exists hs to tho exact meaning of the term. It is used loosely to imply the clearing of the soil of both pest's and diseases, but for diseases such as clubroot, etc., materials used have to’be applied in much larger quantities. But, taking garden posts as our limitation, wc find that there aro many chemicals which can be applied for the clearing of the ground posts. All soil fumigants should be used as early in the winter as possible, to get tho ground thoroughly cloaned before the spring, since if they are used shortly before seeds arc sown, th&v

(Specially written far “Times” by Lorna.).

may pfove detrimental to the young plants and stunt the growth of food crops. Where carbide refuse can be obtained, which to produced from an acetylene gas plant,, use should bo made of it, as it is of great value as a soil fumigant. About one pound per square yard, dug in, is a suitable dressing. It will kill all tho small pests common to soils, but should not bo relied on where the soil i» full of wireworms. Carbolic acid is better for the latter pest. It is of great valuo as a soil fumigant, provided that tho dressing is not too strong. Being a liquid, its application is somewhat awkward, and it has to bo applied to tho infected ground by means of a watering can. Tho quantity to be applied is a matter of opinion but for a thirty-six gallon barrel of water, three pints of carbolic acid concentrated will bo enough. This liquid is extremely poisonous, so it should all bo used up to prevent any accident happening. J-he strong acid will cause severe wounds m contact with naked flesh. In the case of ground which is very full of soil nests at least 30 gallons of tins solution for every square yard wall be required, and it is best to trench the ground immediately after application, to a depth of 15 inches. Formaline, too, is a liquid but it is highly effective {IS a soil fumigant. Being very strong and quick to evaporate, the gardener must be careful when using it, and any vessel containing tho strong solution should bo opened -out of doors to avoid any possibility of asphyxiation. About oue quart to every 20 gallons of water should bo used, and great caie ] should be taken not to water more, ground, than can bo turned over during the day, as the gas given off is very irritating to the eyes, nose and throat, and a little protection is . advisable when using it. Napthalcne is another thing used, which should bo applied a.

the rate of a ilb. per square yard, digging in immediately. Fresh soot is a mild fumigant, as also is salt. Tar is also very useful. It should be spread on the land and dug in. The idea that this material will kill plants is a popular falaoy, and has no foundation, as from experiments made it has no detrimental effect, As regards its value as

a soil fumigant it is worthy of muoh praise, for the gas-given off from tho tar means death to all soil posts. This material should bo spread thinly over' the ground and dug in a few weeks Inter. It should not be overlooked by gardeners, in general that lime applied regularly to soils is a means of keeping tho garden much freer of pests , than it would otherwise be. >- The Shrubbery.

This ia the best of all times bo prepare ground for a shrubbery. A wellarranged and carefully tended shrubbery is one of the finest features of a well managed garden. This featuro of the garden is one that requires much forethought. A study must be made of tho habits of each plant selected, or, as they develop, overcrowding will spoil the effect. Too close planting, is far too common, immediate effect being aimed at instead of tho future being visualised. It is far better to fill, in the spaces while tho shrubs are small with things that can bo discarded as the need arises. A much better effect is gained even in a small shrubbery it groups of three or four of one kind are planted together. Azaleas, heaths, kalmias and rhododendrons should be given a section of tho shrubbery to themselves, where limo of any form can bo excluded, and peat and leaf mould given them. Among these, will be found an idoal place for the culture of groups of the lilium family ._ Shrubs noted for their handsome berries, and those having beautiful foliage are _always attractive, while the flowering prunus, apples and cherries' must not be overlooked. All evergreen shrubs arc best planted in Into autumn; if not got in then, they should be left until spring, which often obviates a lot of watering if a dry summer follows. In preparing the ground for shrubs of all kinds, it is advisable first to trench or double dig it. Some vege-

table refuse is good to work in, but shrubs on tho whole grow more compactly if no manure is put at their roots, which induces them to rnako rapid growth for a few seasons. Pruning.

Tho question of pruning is one of the great stumbling blocks in connection with tho culture of shrubs to many gardonors, and not infrequently all aro allowed to grow as they choose, and so very often got out of shape and become an eyesore. All the commoner kinds that are grown for their foliage alone may, generally speaking, bo pruned during tho winter months, but flowering kinds should usually be treated just after tho flowers fade. Few ,u’ these trees need pruning in the accepted sense of tho word, but the shortening back of a straggly growth here

and there is often a decided benefit. In the case of deutzias, lilacs, and others of this nature, some of tho old wood should bo cut clean out, so as to encourage the growth of strong young shoots for futuro blooming. Autumn Treatment of Asparagus. Asparagus shoots which have been developing throughout tho summer, must bo cut off close to the ground as soon ns tho foliage has turned brown, and tho stems seem to havo decayed. Clear away all rubbish and weeds from beds, taking care not to injure tho crowns of tho plants, which are mostly very near t<ho surface, and spread a coat of well decayed farmyard manure on the surface of tho bed. Other fertilisers needed for asparagus are best applied in tho spring, about the period when growth commences. Ripening Late Tomatoes. Tomatoes will ripen in the dark. Pack them in sawdust or pieces of flannol and put them in a warm place. Tho fipit should be looked at fairly constantly, so that if a. tomato goes bad, cither on account of it having been bruised, or from -being diseased, it can bo removed before the other fruit is contaminated. Poisonous Properties of Primula Obconica. The above family of plants are among the most useful for greenhouse and window culture, also for shady

spots outdoors, and for tho sheltered parts of tho rock garden. Many are, however, afraid to grow them on account of their alleged poisonous properties. Certainly there arc a few persons who suffer extreme irritation through handling them, and for these, tho obvious thing is to avoid growing xho plants. But a largo majority could safely undertake their culture, and tboso who have suffered from handling them arc not justified in wholly condemning them. There aro other things which apt as irritants to certain people besides this primula. For .instance, humca clotgans have been known to affect certain people in tho same way. Rhus toxicondcndron (poison ivy) is another whioh may not bo handled by some with safety. Tho ordinary tobacco plant will, at times, irritate the skin, while other plants might bo enumerated. A good deal has been said about the effects of the irritation set up by contact with this plant, but very •little about the cause. Upon looking at some flowers of the primula under the microscope, the pedieals, and calyces are covered with hollow bulbous hairs filled with' a colourless fluid very similar to tho hairs -on the stinging nettle. In handling or brushing against the plant the bulbous top breaks off and the fluid enters the pores of the skin, hence tho irritation; tho leaves are probably furnished in tho same way. An effective ointment for those who suffer from contact with plants is 15 minims liquid carbolic acid added to ■one ounce oxide zinc ointmont.