HORTICULTURE.

Manawatu Times, Volume XLII, Issue 1728, 8 January 1921, Page 8

HORTICULTURE.

VEGETABLE GARDEN. Except in the case of vegetables which were being constantly watered plant life was being severely tested by Old Sol. Now plants and seeds have had a fresh lease of life, but it will not met for long without the aid of the hose or the watering-can. Personally I much prefer the water-ing-can, and you will find that John Chinaman (whose example is worth following in the matter of gardening) rarely uses anything else. You can try another sowing of dwarf and runner beans and peas. Also keep your stock of cabbage and lettuce supplied by occasional sowings. Plant out broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, lettuce, and other winter greens. Pumpkins, melons, etc., are doing well and all that is needed now is a liquid manure. Tomatoes require constant attention, removing lateral growths, spraying, and occasional supplies of liquid manure. , Plant out leeks and celery, as previously advised, in trenches. Assist young crops by the frequent use of the hoe. more particularly after heavy rains. By this means moisture is kept much longer in the ground, and the heat of the sun does not crack the surface, as is the case where the ground is left undisturbed. Thin out growing crops before they become crowded, and in the case o f ' failures lose no time in getting in a fresh supply. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Continue the planting out of all border plants that are not already in. Stake and tie carnations. If good flowers are required thin the bud"-, leaving only one bud at the extremity of each shoot. The stalks of any plants past flower ing should be removed. Faded flowers and seed pods of rhododendrons should be removed. Wan* of attention in this will seriously interfere with next year’s flowering There is scarcely any flowering shrub or plant that will not benefit from attention in removing dead or seed pods. Pansies or violas, for instance, may be kept flowering and in better condition for six to nine months out of the twelve if faded flowers or seed pods arc removed. Bulbous plants may be lifted and stored or replanted as required as soon as the leaves have died down. Now’ is a good time to root cutting? of double wallflowers or single ones, where the strain is of such merit as to justify the process of rooting cuttings. It is also worth while to propagate some of the finer kinds of antirrhinums. They root freely in fine sandy soil. The cuttings should he prepared and pricked out into shallow boxes and placed in a cool, close frame. Keep an eve on the seed pods of auniculas, polyanthus, or such thing? that it is desired to save seed from in case they burst and scatter the seed. Pick the pods just as they are turning brown, and place them on sheets of paper to ripen off. The shelf in a. greenhouse or some such place is a pood spot to ripen the pods. Pot olf chrysanthemums before the plants become pot-bound. Specimen plants—that is, those grown or trained for producing dwarf, compact heads with large quantities of flowers —should have their second stopping now. About a week or so before their final potting is a good time. Tie out each shoot to small stakes, so as to give each its full proportion of light and air. Water carefully. Do not allow them to suffer for want of water. Nor should they be watered when the soil is moist, more particularly after re-potting. There is not so much likelihood of over-watering after they are well established in the pots as just after the potting- on takes place.