Thank you for correcting the text in this article. Your corrections improve Papers Past searches for everyone. See the latest corrections.

This article contains searchable text which was automatically generated and may contain errors. Join the community and correct any errors you spot to help us improve Papers Past.

Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

THE GARDEN.

Notes are published under this head are invited to send in questions relat expert advice; answers will bo publish

ROSES

An exhibitor says: “At this time of the year one of the most absorbing topics to a rose grower is, ‘what constitutes the best dozen show roses?’ I have been to several shows and have made some notes about the blooms I have seen, but I am still in the dark as to which are the best. Now, Earl Haig has been shown everywhere nnd seems to lie an ideal rose for this purpose, so 1 shall put it first on my list. Some of the flowers were rather faded and others did not have that high centre that is so essential to pass the critical eyes of present day judges. With me this rose is a good grower and gives plenty of blooms, but I never have had one that could bo called a champion bloom. However, I like it very much, and shall continue to grow it. Mrs Chas. Lamplough comes next on the list. This is a huge rose, nearly white, but it does not like wet or wind. When it conies good it is one of the most beautiful of all roses and, judging by the number of times I noted it, I think it must bo a general favourite. The growth is tall and leggy, but 1 think my own bushes are improving with age. There have been more flowers this year than I have ever had before and most of them hnve been good. Gorgeous is a decided favourite with everyone, but is one of the most variable roses in colour that I have. I have had blooms that were nearly white and then a bloom with a glorious orange tint will come on the same bush. In shape it is perfect and will last a long time in water. When the flowers expand to fully open, I can quite understand the name being given to it. Frau Karl Druschki was 'shown the same number of times as Gorgeous and is one of the most dependable roses I have ever grown. Some say they do not like it because it is scentless, but look at the number of good blooms one plant will produce and what does it matter if one bloom in a bunch is scentless. I cannot get that chaste white in any other rose and shall continue to grow it in spite of all the critics. Golden Emblem is a rose that I could not do without; she has many faults, poor dear, but when the blooms come, well, there is no other yellow roso to compare with her for beauty. She has been well shown this year and has been more admired in my garden than any other. I think it is because I have given sulphate of potash regularly. So far the climbing variety has done well, but has not given the richness of colour peculiar to the dwarf. Mabel Morse is a good yellow and was well shown on several occasions, but I cannot get this rose to grow. The foliage early in the season was superb, but the flowers were small. I shall try again because the shape is all that can be desired. I have not seen the climbing sport yet, but the Australian papers say it is a welcome addition to the climbers. Is this “boost” or is it n fact, I wonder. Mnrgnret Dickson Hamil has been shown to best advantage this year. This is a wonderful yellow when good, but the plant must be well fed to keep the bloom up. One exhibitor told me he had solved the problem of showing this rose, and that was to pick the flower in fairly tight bud the night before and put it in a vase of water with an aspirin in it, and leave it until next morning, when it would hold itself well and keep its colour. I have tried this plan and find it quite satisfactory. I have a standard of this

ing, and reader sinterested in gardening ing to matters upon which they wish ed with the weekly notos.

which gives somo splendid blooms and they are a better colour than the dwarf, j “Una Wallace is the favourite pink i with exhibitors and is a very reliable rose for all purposes. The growth is j good and all the blooms come a good : shape, though some of them do not 1 last as long as the others. This rose j has been well exhibited this season, j The flowers unfold right to the centre, j Mabel Turner is a good show bloom and is one that keeps its shape for a long time. It is a much lighter pink than tho former with largo shell petals. A strong grower with good lusty thorns, but the blooms tarnish quickly in the wind. It- has not been shown as many times as Mrs- Henry Morse which is one of the most perfect roses 1 grown. It is both a show bloom and a really good bedder. 1 find, sulphate of potash is needed to strengthen the foliago. Dr Ed. Deacon way well shown on several occasions and is a delightful colour which reminds one of Los Angeles. However, it is a better grower and not so liable to black spot which spoils the latter rose so often. I have only grown this variety for two years and may change my mind, but still I think it has come to stay. Dorina Neavo is a good pink I saw at one show which i shall get this year. It! seemed to have all that a show rose , should have. Mrs' A. R. Barraclough was in the same exhibit and is a rose that 1 have grown for two years without results. It may require a change of situation as I find tins an excellent thing with varieties that do not do well in one place. Take them up in April and remove all the foliage and 1 then replant in fresh soil and they will grow at once. Mrs Henry Wimsett is a red that no exhibitor can do without. It- is a good strong grower and I am told that it can bo shaded for two or three days beforo tho *how without spoiling its colour. My informant says that shading intensifies the colour; if this is so, 1 do not think it can be beaten for shape. Another red which I saw and marked ‘to get’ was called Villa Fia. The shape was splendid with largo upright strong petals. I do not know anything more about it. Lady Inchiquin and Lady Mary Elizabeth are rather alike both in growth and size of bJoom, but tho former gives the most shapely blooms for show purposes, and I do not think any exhibitor could do without it. It is a strong grower and blooms right through the season. The colour is a dazzling cerise shaded at the edges. One rose that was exhibited several times was Shot Silk. This is not included in English show roses, but ns I saw it at several shows 1 think it was well worth including. There is something about this rose that appeals to everyone and it cannot be beaten as a garden rose or one for bedding. I have by no means exhausted the list of roses that can be grown as show blooms and I wish others would take up their pens and discuss their favourites. I am only an amateur grower and have learnt what little I know from observing tho habits and growth and also talking over my troubles with those who are better qualified to say what is required. 1 am sure that no one’s opinion will bo turned down no matter how much opposed it may be to tho general ideas on tho subject, and the more interest that can be aroused in tho subject the better it will be for all guldens and gardeners generally.” QUESTION. “J.M.M.” says:—“Enclosed please find some leaves of iny delphinium plant. Can you tell me what is the trouble, what tho cause, and wliat to do to cure the trouble?”—-The leaves are badly affected with mildew, a trouble that is causing a lot of concern amongst growers of these plants. We so far have not found any remedy that will cure it, but would advise you to use one ounce of sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) and to dissolve it in a jug of hot water and when dissolved add enough rain water to make up to two and a-half gallons of spray. Apply this to the plants with as fine a spray as possible, just wetting the leaves on both sides. This will check the disease and will give the next growths a chance to come away clean. It will be a good plan to cut these growths to the ground as soon ns the flowers have opened and then begin spraying the new growths as soon as they are about six inches high. Three or four sprayings may l>e necessary at intervals of a fortnight. We have lately been trying the effect of bi-carbonate of soda and so far it has checked the disease, but was not used early enough in growth to clean the plants altogether. The strength used was one teaspoonsful to a gallon of water. When trying to overcome mildew it is important to keep the surrounding soil free from weeds, especially groundsel, which Mr A. J. Macself says is the host for rt. Some varieties seem to be more prone' to mildew than others, but we think that you can prevent it to a certain extent by using the remedies advised al>ove. If the plants are very bad, cut them down now and try the liver of sulphur as soon as they grow again. DAHLIAS. Dahlia growers will find that their plants are making good headway after the good rains of last week, and in many cases the plants will be ready for tying to the centre stake. This tie should not be too tight, but allow room for the plant to grow and move about, within bounds, when the wind sways it. As long as the plants are growing freely there is no ned to force them along. A little sulphate of potash can be given to them to Parpen up the stems and leaves. Luckily, there are very few diseases that attack dahlias and one has not to be so constantly on the alert as one has to be with other things. Caterpillars are the most troublesome and these live on tho undersides of the leaves and

eat away the green matter. When this pest is noticed, spray the plants with arsenate of lead, two teaspoonsful to tho gallon. Add a little skim milk to make the spray stick to tho leaves. The forming buds should also be sprayed as the caterpillars are very fond of living inside them while they finish their life cycle. In tho case of plants that are being grown for show purposes, some of the i branches must bo thinned out to allow light and air to penetrate to those branches that are left. When the blooms are opening up, the branches I that are carrying the heavy blooms j must ue staked also, and for this 1 work it is a good plan to have a bundle of stakes in n handy position where they can bo got when they are wanted. To have to collect them at the time when you are tying up means a lot of time lost, and it may mean a broken branch before the work is done. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

French and butter beans can be sown every three weeks or so right up to the end of next month; after that they are more or less of a catch crop nature and it is only those gardeners who never suffer from the early frosts that can grow them successfully. The main thing is to give the plants room to develop. When they come tip too thickly thin them out to at least six inches apart and then you will get a. crop. An old gardener says that he has read these notes regularly and has found them most useful. Ho lias been growing Lima' beans for some years and finds that there are few people who know what they are. He says that they will grow anywhere that the ground is warm and rich. The beans are planted in rows two feet apart and about six inches between the plants, but the climbing varieties want double this space and aiso must bo provided [with poles like the ordinary runner beans. To cook them they are shelled like ordinary broad beans, and they somewhat resemble them in flavour, but are far more nutritious. Another thing he mentions about them is that those that get ripe can be shelled and kept for winter use. They are soaked over-night beforo being cooked and when once you have tried them you will never be without them. They are no more trouble than the ordinary runner beans to grow and give crops quite equal to them. A number of complaints have been made this season about potatoes getting blighted and there is nothing that can be done except spraying them with what is known as the Burgundy mixture which only differs from Bordeaux in that washing soda is used in the place of lime. The same care must be used in mixing it and wooden or porcelain used to hold it in when it is made. It will not keep and must be used the same day that it is made. See that the undersides of the leaves are sprayed as well as the tops. Keep up the supply of salad materials by sowing lettuces, radishes and mustard and cress. It will depend on how much is wanted as to tho amount to sow, but most gardeners have a lair knowledge of what they want after the first crop has been cut. Cabbages, cauliflowers, Brussell sprouts and brocolli can be planted out now in well prepared ground. None of these crops should be planted in old and worn out land, or in land that has grown any of the same family during the last two years at least. Lime is a necessary ingredient in the soil at all times, and it they are to bo planted in new land that has just be-en broken in from grass, lime it as soon as it is dug. It is not necessary to put the lnne m deeply m } sow it oil the surface and subsequent workings will put it down beSilver beet is a good standby for the winter and seed can be sown in well nianured land now. The reason tor advising good rich soil for this crop is to get it to grow quickly and then you can make two dishes of it. One part is tho green of the leaf and the other is the white midrib. If this midrib is cooked with a little celery it will taste ns though the whole dish was composed of celerv. Plant out celery in trenches and see* that it gets enough water to keep it growing during the dry weather. When stunted it is more liable to attacks of aphis and celery ily.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/MS19321216.2.126

Bibliographic details

Manawatu Standard, Volume LIII, Issue 16, 16 December 1932, Page 11

Word Count
2,586

THE GARDEN. Manawatu Standard, Volume LIII, Issue 16, 16 December 1932, Page 11

THE GARDEN. Manawatu Standard, Volume LIII, Issue 16, 16 December 1932, Page 11

Help

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert