OPENNESS IN CHEESE.

Manawatu Standard, Volume L, Issue 147, 21 May 1930, Page 4

OPENNESS IN CHEESE.

TARANAKI SCIENTIST’S REPORT. ADVOCATE OP LEVY. REMEDY WITH INDUSTRY. Openness in cheese, which is estimated to be costing the producers of the Dominion a million pounds annually, is dealt with in an exhaustive report appearing in the Hawera Star yesterday. It was compiled by Air P. 0. Yeale, 13. A., AI.Sc., A.1.C., research chemist to the Taranaki Federation of Co-operative Dairy Factories, and advances many practical suggestions, indicating that the remedy for the position lies with the industry itself. _ The adoption of the suggestions put forward will, it is claimed, revolutionise manufacturing and marketing methods in New Zealand. Air Veale expresses the opinion that, while some of the trouble is inevitable because of many distinctive features peculiar to the New Zealand cheese industry, most of it is preventable and that New Zealand factories could alter their methods and make a much better article if directorates deemed it expedient or payable to do so—in short, financial inducements are more necessary than scientific research.

GRADING SYSTEM REFORMS. Dismissing aa an idle dream the hope that science will discover some specific medicine which will allow the industry to pursue ite present course and yet will close up loose cheese, prevent evaporation of moisture and confer mellowness and maturity where time and nature have been denied their opportunity, Mr Veale urges tho industry to take the steps necessary for its own salvation. 110 advocates tho grading of milk, the encouragement of hand-milking and of low-test milk, and a gradual working up towards the elimination of pasteurising and standardisation. Encouragement of the manufacture of “show cheese” for export by what ho terms tho only feasible method, is advocated by Mr Veale on the following lines: — By a levy on the whole cheese industry to provide adequate premiums for finest cheese. Such premiums must bo sufficient to compensate tho factories for their reduced yield and higher wages and manufacturing costs, thus making it a good business proposition to aim at the very best. Changes and enlightenment in the policy of the Dairy Division, tho reform of the grading system, and the widening of tho powers of Dairy Division officers to enable them to coerce companies, if necessary, in the common interest are urged by Mr Veale. Proposing the caring of cheese in the Dominion, and its export in a mature condition, the Taranaki scientist claims that by so doing the Dominion would eliminate not only crack-openness, but aLo the much deprecated immaturity of New Zealand cheese. Furthermore, he adds, we would rehabilitate our reputation by keeping off the market cheese which goes wrong after early grading. It is claimed that the expense involved in tho suggestions would bo a mere bagatelle in the face of our present heavy losses. The report concludes with an appeal to the cheese industry to realise tho seriousness of the position and to take action not only for its own sake, but also for the national reputation, lest tho continual loss of publio estimation for our cheoso bo followed by an induced reaction against our butter, thus involving the whole of the industry in a common disaster. INCREASE IN COMPLAINTS. “Within recent years there haa been a continual increase in the number and seriousness of complaints against the body and texture of New Zealand cheoso exported to England,” says Mr Veale at tho beginning of his report, “and it may be fairly stated that looseness and openness are now tho outstanding defects of our cheese. Tho fault is not one of recent appearance, having been encountered for

many years, but a number of causes have been co-operating to make its occurrence more and more obvious, until now there is no gainsaying the fact that openness in cheese is responsible for much loss in popularity and considerable reductions in price. Openness in Now Zealand cheddar cheese is not a new defect. It is an extremely common trouble, and arises from a large variety of known causes. Possibly also some unknown factors may be operating to-day, but there is far more likelihood that our cheese is suffering from the combined effects of a number of causes, all operating in the one direction. The gradual accumulation of these conditions has been so slow and insidious that no one has marked its progress, but gradually the combined effeot has become unmistakable. Most of these causes of openness are well-known, and each in itself may bo comparatively trifling, but tho peculiar and distinctive lines along which the New Zealand cheesemaking industry has evolved have brought about a steady accumulation of effect such as could not occur in any other country. Hence has arisen our national problem. Openness jn cheese may be subdivided into three classes, namely:— (1) “Openness due to fermentation, and arising from the action of micro-organ-isms. (2) “Mechanical openness, the result of the simple failure of tho pieces of curd to knit together. (3) “The state or condition of export cheese which results in quick drying out, and the formation of large and unsightly cracks soon after a cheese is cut and exposed for sale.” On account of the great length of the report a brief summary of the cited causes of openness is presented as follows: (A) FERMENTATION ' OPENNESS. This may be bacterial or yeasty. The micro-organisms may come from unclean methods on tho farm or in tho factory. Their presence in milk, particularly the presence of yeasts, must always, to some extent, be due to the bad practices of carrying home whey in empty milk cans, and of using “boiling” water from the factory for cleansing purposes on tho farm. It is not contended that true fermentation openness is a prime oause of the present ’ complaints against Now Zealand cheese, but it contributes a small share. (B) MECHANICAL OR SLIT OPENNESS. Even where great caro in manufacture is taken, this may arise through ernors in acidity development or through tho failure of tho curd to rise to a proper maximum acidity. The causes cited for this aro: — 1. The widespread adoption of machine

milking and the decline of hand milking. On account of this thero has been a subtle change in tho bacterial quality of our milk, lactic germs being eliminated or supplanted by putrefaotivo types which interfere with, the action of the starter cultures. As a result, acidity development is irregular, elow and generally incomplete, while the “fast vats” common to former days arc practically unknown. 2. Tho lateness of suppliers and the introduction of labour union hours in. the factories, in consequence of which a ripening period for the milk to correct “nonacid” tendencies before setting is impossible. 3. The slavish adherence of managers to the alkaline titration tost for acidity, to the exclusion of all other tests, coupled with the existence of numerous factors which, at times, make the test uncertain and misleading. 4. The high fat test and tho largo fat globules in New Zealand eheeso factory milk, together with the multiplicity of mechanical handling which tho milk receives nowadays. As a result, the fat is partially churned, curds become greasy and their complete cohering in tho cheese is hindered or prevented. 5. Neglect of the pressing equipment, and some fundamental weakness in its col |" struction, both circumstances making much of the pressing ineffective.

MADE TOO RAPIDLY. Mechanical openness also arises from preventable causes. New Zealand export cheese is made far too'rapidly, and contains too much combined and free moisture when pressed. Some of this modern speed in manufacture, involving neglect of the finer points of workmanship, has. been forced upon the industry or has arisen unconsciously for the following reasons. 1. The introduction of labour unions and the compulsory shortening of dairy factory hours. 2. Tho lateness of many suppliers in arriving with their milk. , . 3. Tho failure of the Dairy Division to check tho first appearances of the trouble by a proper allocation of grading points or by a proper system of deductions based upon tho relative importance of the defects present. . Most of the modern speed in manufacture, however, has been deliberately and consciously undertaken. Tho reasons which led to this step being taken initially, and which have practically forced other companies to follow suit are: 1. The reduction in working and fuel costs, and the greater amount of ease secured by the shortening of hours. 2. The incorporation of excess moisturo, which is hooped up in tho cheese before it has been allowed time to escape. Hence a greater yield of cheese and a larger payout to suppliers. This has gone on from year to year unchecked, because of the unwillingness of the Dairy Division to ’’damn” our cheese by grading it too low, and because of tho failure of the leaders of the industry to see tho disaster towards which this leniency has allowed us to drift. 3. Competition, followed by loss of supply and ultimate extinction, which has forced neighbouring companies to commit themselves to the same programme, until now, in a greater or lesser degree, tho practice is universal. 4. Tho present system of marketing, and our adoption of a national brand, which have caused a general levelling of prices, and have prevented companies from receiving differential prices commensurate with the differences in the quality of their produce. These circumstances have caused most, or all, to doubt the wisdom of any course except that of securing a bare “first grade” cheese and a high yield. An immediate financial loss through lowering of yield would bo the reward of any company which committed itself to the task of exporting the highest quality cheese its managers could make. Mochanical or slit openness is increased by evaporation from the cheese during the period of curing before waxing. The hard rind of the cheese makes an unyielding “shell,” which draws the cheese away from the interior and causes it to crack along lines of least resistance, namely, tho site of original holes, or tho junctions between pieces of greasy curd. This tendency is increased by all the causes of over-moisture in New Zealand cheese.

(C) CRACKING IN CHEESE WHENEXPOSED FOR SALE IN ENGLAND. This is the result of evaporation coupled with tho immaturity of tho cheese. Our produce is largely “curd” when marketed, and stjll possesses the tough resilient body which cracks easily. Fully matured curd is “buttery” or “broken down.” and collapses on drying, but does not crack to any extent. Such is tho condition of most of the English and Canadian cheese when marketed. Recent causes contributing to increased moisture content in Now Zealand eheeso whereby evaporation is accelerated are: 1. The conscious attempt to manufacture over-moist cheese. 2. Waxing, which imprisons the moisturo. 3. Pasteurisation, which slightly raises the absorptive powers of casein. 4. Standardisation, which raises tho moisture content at the oxpense of tho fat. Causes contrbuting to the growing immaturity of Now Zealand cheoso of lato years are: — 1. Pasteurisation, which kills good and bad gorms alike. 2. Reduction of transport and storage temperatures, which hinders bacterial action and ripening. 3. Organisation of shipments, and speedier transport, especially in tho spring months, when every effort is made to catch the prevailing high markets. With such an array of contributing causes to our national defect, it is not remarkable that openness in cheese should be widespread, or that a few isolated trials to control tho trouble by attention to one or two factors should have failed. ALONG WRONG LINES. Tho position is a serious one, adds Mr Veale, and the industry itself must take tho stens necessary for its own salvation. Experience is undoubtedly showing that cheoso manufacture is proceeding along wrong lines, and that we must call a halt lest we destroy completely tho reputation and goodwill which aro our heritage from years of earlier effort. Certain institutions in tho cheese industry which havo evolved and expanded over a period of years cannot bo swept away in a moment. These are: —(1) The universal distribution of tho milking machine; (2) tho popularity of the high-test-ing cow in cheese districts; (3) tho pasteurisation of milk for cheesemaking. Nor, indeed, h the sweeping away of these, institutions held to bo desirable, provided that wo appreciate their full influences and that, while conserving to our use thoir advantages, wo recognise and guard against their disadvantages. This would involve tho following action being taken: (1) Tho institution of universal and

compulsory grading of milk for eheeso making with differential payments, in order to control and reduco contamination by “milking machine bacteria.” Hand-milking in choose districts should be encouraged by a small differential pavmont, or by allowing hand-milk a handicap of one grade advantage over machino milk. In other words, first grado hand milk should be ranked as equal to finest grado machine milk and paid accordingly. (2) Low testing milk from the recognised low testing breeds should bo encouraged by tile institution of a new method of payment, quite apart from consideration of equity based on tfto differences in yield per pound of butter-fat between high and low test milk. No method can be devised which will give with absolute exactness tho payments perfectly equivalent to the yielding capacities of tho milk, but a constant premium of any predetermined amount in tho vicinity of Id to ljd per pound of butterfat would more nearly perform justice than the present “straight butterfat” system. What is urgently wanted i 3 genuino low-testing milk with its small fat globule to combat greasiness of curds and to promote ease of cooking in tho factory. The importance of tho necessity for this encouragement should not be lost sight of in petty quarrelling as to tho amount of the payment. Finally in years to come, when this encouragement has borno fruit, standardisation would become unnecessary and obsolete. In tho meantime, tho multiplicity of mochanical handling to which our highly churnablo milk is subjected should bo reduced to a minimum. REMEDY" FOR POSITION. (3) Since pasteurisation of milk is a remedy for a disease which should not noij exist, we should endeavour to dispense with this process as soon as our milk is up to the necessary standard of cleanliness. To this end, the institution of universal milk grading with differential payments is again advocated, together with tho prohibiting of the carriage of whey in milk cans, and tho abolition of factory supplies of “boiling water.” Measures which aim at cleanliness of factory/milk can hardly bo too severe, and should necessarily involve tho provision of boiling water and steam facilities in the milking shed of every dairy farm. Coming now to the cheese factory itself, wo arrive at a spot where immediate results can bo secured. A return must be mode to slow and careful workmanship along the lines of “show cheese” manufacture, and curd must not be pressed until it is devoid of all whey and free from external moisture. This will necessarily involve longer working hours in the factory, greater expenses, and a lower yield of cheese. It is idle to suggest that this can he brought about by a voluntary effort on the part of dairy companies, oven assuming that they rccogniso the seriousness of the position and the need for action. As already explained, the pioneers in tho movement would be penalised by an immediate loss, and would have no guarantee of ultimately recouping themselves unless tho whole of tho industry followed suit. Who, then, will take the first step ?

The only feasible suggestion is that tho manufacture of good eheeso must be encouraged by premiums, and that of poor eheeso discouraged by deductions. To this end a levy should be made upon the whole cheese industry, and a fund created, out of which adequate premiums for finest grade cheese would be paid. Details of such a scheme can bo left for future discussion, and at this juncture only the broad principle will be advocated. If such a step is taken, there must also bo a marked change of front on tho part of the Dairy Division. It must bo prepared to admit mistakes in some of its past and present policies. It must be separated from political influence so that its officers shall havo freedom at all times to act in tho best interests of the industry as a whole. Thero must be a clear recognition of the type of cheese most universally in demand in England, and an understanding that a flavour clean but flat, mild and tasteless, is not the ideal goal towards which the industry must bo forced. Thero must be a widening of tho margin between the best and the worst in grading, a more sensible allocation of the points, honest awards and deductions of points in the sections where they rightly belong and, above all, a resolute enforcement of the powers conferred upon departmental officers when dealing with delinquent companies. Over-moist cheese must be severely discouraged by other methods than mildly worded verbal “protests,” and to this end a regulation prohibiting the export of cheese from high-testing districts which contained at the time of manufacture more than 37 per cent of moisturo in tho spring, 36 por cent, in the summer and 36 per cent, in tho autumn should bo introduced.

CONTROL OF LICENSES. The Dairy Division should bo given tho power to have dairy companies under observation at all times and to withdraw licenses for export unless instructions were carried out. Such being the broad principles upon which the openness in New Zealand cheese would bo checked, what are tho prcciso dotails to bo put into practice ? These are: (1) A ro-arrangoinent of dairy workers’ hours, whereby some of the staff coming on early would bo allowed to finish before the completion of cheesemaking, while j others who came on later would put in I tho necessary time to achieve good workmanship. (2) Continual attention to tho following essential points in manufacture: — (a) A ripening period for the milk up to 22 to 25 “points” of acid before setting acording to its quality, in order to combat “non-acid” milk of different kinds. (b) Thorough cooking and draining of the curd. 1 (c) Proper maturing of tho curd, before and especially after milling, with particular attention to the drainage of white whey. (d) Thorough maturing and drainage after salting, and a complete absence of white whey and freo moisture when pressing. (3) The provision in every factory of ono special worker (or two, if necessary in largo factories) to “dress” the choose four or five hours after maximum pressure has been reached. The same worker would, during his night duty, relieve the pressure in each press at least once,, turn over every set of hoops, and once again tighten up to the maximum, increasing the pressure at intervals. Duties of this sort, perhaps not so thorough, were once performed by the ordinary employees, but the present dairy factory award makes no provision for the ( performance of such important work. j (4) Careful and continual attention to

the choose hoops and inner bands, keeping the surfaces which move in contact with eaoh other bright and smooth and artificially lubricated in order to minimise friction. KEEP UNTIL MATURE. If tho above remedies were put into effect universally, New Zealand clieese would commence a new existence, closely pressed and free from extraneous or excess moisture. In this condition it would retain its legitimate moisturo content well and waxing would be regarded as superfluous. So far, therefore, its speed of cracking whon cut and exposed for sale in England would be greatly reduced, but it would crack nevertheless, because of its immaturity. If we are to correct this last fault, wo must keep our cheese back, and forward it when reasonably mature. Such a course would have several important advantages over and above the securing of that mellow, broken-down “buttery” body which contracts on drying, but does not crack. These additional advantages would bo : 1. The better control of the ripening by a temperature control in tho vicinity of 60 deg. F. 2. The elimination of complaints continually received against tho “greenness” or immaturity of our cheese when going into consumption. 3. The retention of cheese •which, for some unforeseen slow developing fault, finally turns out putrid, mottled, discoloured or unsaleable for any reason. At present such cases do infinite harm to the reputation of New Zealand produce generally and to the goodwill of the dairy industry in particular. It would be better for all parties if such cheese were destroyed here in New Zealand. 4. The certain knowledge of the actual quality of the cheese when shipped, and the elimination of the “lucky first grade,” which is hopelessly second grade when received in England. ACTION THIS WINTER. The proopsal to euro our cheese in New Zealand may seem both revolutionary and expensive, but it would result in profit which would be achieved much more quickly than some supposo. Actually, it full acidity development were secured in the factories, pasteurisation eliminated, and curing temperatures raised somewhat, tho amount of storage space required for adequate curing might not be excessively large, and the burden could well be shared between the cool storage companies and the dairy companies. It is to be hoped that the New Zealand industry will fully appreciato the necessity for urgent action, and that tho present winter will not be allowed to pass without laying the foundation for better tilings during noxt season. Experience in the past has shown that reforms cannot be secured by any other agency than by tho united voice of the industry. Producers, therefore, must themselves take steps to improve their produce, lest they suffer for another 12 months and so on for over, the increasing losses resulting from the ruinous , lines along whicli the cheese industry has been allowed to drift. THIRD IN QUALITY". Without belittling tho importance of the work of any other investigator, states Mr Veale, or suggesting that nis report is tho last word on tiio subject, tic says this contribution is made in tho light of present knowledge, with a desire to assist tho industry not only by awakening it to tho urgency of tho present need for action, but also by furnishing concrete proposals which will result in some immediate relief, and somo abatement of tho losses which arc now occurring. Tho suggestion may be mado that tho seriousness of tho present position of tho cheese industry is exaggerated, and that it has become a fashion to decry our quality. As against this, we cannot ignoro tho ropcatcd warnings received with increasing frequency of lato years. Even if only a fraction of them are true, the position is such as to warrant the taking of immediate action. It is surely not without significance that New Zealand cheese is now consistently ranked third in quality and prico on tho English markets, a fact which, in itself, should stimulato our desire for increased returns, even if it does not awakon our senso of national pride. Furthermore, wo must bo alive to tho danger that as New Zealand butter and cheoso are jointly advertised in England a lowering of public estimation towards our cheese is likely to be followed by an induced loss of popularity on the part of our butter, thus involving tho whole dairy industry in a common disaster. Future research may throw additional light upon tho problem of openness in eheeso, but there is sufficient evidence available to show that the proposals set forth in this paper will fully merit tho confidence of tho industry in putting them into effect with tho earnest wish to lead along the path of increased prosperity.