THE GARDEN.

Manawatu Standard, Volume XLIV, Issue 664, 24 March 1923, Page 9

THE GARDEN.

Notes are published weekly under this heading, and readers interostedvin gardening are invited to send in questions relating to matters upon which thoy v#sh export advico; answors will be publiihecl with tlie weekly notes.

PREPARING FOR PLANTING. The work of preparing land for planting is one that is generally left until it is quite late in the season, and yet there are numbers of gardeners who are going to set out new shrubberies, and have made up their minds as to what they are going to grow in them. When shrubs are once planted they are there to occupy the ground for <a number of years at least, and therefore it is important that the ground be in good order and condition. Very often gardeners complain that their shrubs are not growing well, and when enquiries are made it is found that holes were dug some time ago, and when tho plants came to hand they were simply put in and the roots covered up with soil. The fact is that these plants cannot grow because the soil below is sour and all growth has been drowned out of it. Now, if you wish to make a shrubbery that will last and give satisfaction it is necessary to dig it deeply and to see that the surplus water can get away as quickly as possible. It is necessary to have a good system of drainage if the soil is at all heavy, especially if tho subsoil is inclined to be clayey. No amount of work afterwards can make up for faulty work in the beginning. Then there is the mistaken ', idea that shrubs in a garden are of little or no value, but this is quite a mistaken idea, as a garden of shrubs can be made a thing of beauty as well as one of everlasting pleasure if it is properly worked and laid out in the beginning. Suppose that you intend making a border of shrubs this season, then the first thing you had better do now is to mark out the ground which you intend to plant and then get to work and dram it. The drains must be at least a few inches below where the deepest part of the trenching will go. This is essential, because if you go below the level at which the pipes are set It means that water will lodge there and will go sour, and there is no more certain way of killing plant bacteria than by allowing water to stagnate at their roots, where the bacteria are working. Then there.is another aspect that is often overlooked, and that is the suitability of the shrubs for the size of the garden. Very often one sees large trees planted in s» space large enough for small trees only, and -when the time comes for cutting out some of the trees it is found that those to be left are only small because they have not had room to develop, and by cutting away some of the faster growing subjects that you are going to encourage growth amongst the slower growing ones. It requires a good deal of care to select the right kinds of subjects for small gardens, and they should be given more space than they will actually require in after years. Planting is another thing that requires more attention than is often given to it. The usual rule is to plant too deeply. The general rule given for planting is to plant to the same mark as if the plants were grown in the nursery, but how very seldom is this carried out. Jt would be better to plant shallower than the old depth mark than to go deeper, as most trees and shrubs have their feeding roots near the surface, and only send their roots down to allow them to get moisture, which is lacking on the surface. It is often necessary to adopt some means of keeping the plants firm in the ground after they have been planted, and here ihere are various _ ways of staking them so that the wind does not blow them about. If the garden is a new one and the plants are exposed to the prevailing winds it is better to put in a stake before the plants are set out in position. Drive a good stout stake well into the soil and then wrap a piece of old sacking round the stem of the plant and then round the stake; as long as there is sacking between the stake and the plant there will be very little chance of rubbing. This applies moreto large specimens than to small ones. When planting a new piece of ground we are certain that it is best to use small plants, and then when they come up high enough to catch the wind their roots are well established. A case of this kind came under our notice recently when a man wanted to plant a hedge of njacrocarpas and could not get all the two-year-old plants he required, so he finished off the hedge with yearlings. The two-year-old plants have suffered badly from the wind, but the yearlings are now well rooted, and are quite six inches above the smaller ones and are filling out nicely. The whole hedge has been well looked after, and tlie only way the extra growth can be accounted for is that the wind did not catch the smaller plants until they had got a firm hold of the soil.

CINERARIAS. A seedsman, speaking the other day about the different seeds and the way they are selling this year, said that he had found a good class of cineraria seed to be one of the best lines he had got. He also said that this flower was becoming more popular for outside growing than it had ever been beforehand this season was going to make a record for the number of plants set out. Seedling raisers say the same tiling and, in some cases, they have had to double their sowings. The main reason for this is no doubt caused by the easiness of flowering, combined with the fact that these plants will grow in unsightly and shaded corners where it is, impossible to get many other things to grow. Anyone wishing to raise his own plants can sow the seed now, but it is necessary to have some covering material of glass or a. glass house to raise the seedlings in. If the seed has been sown before it would have done quite well outside, but sowing now must be done where there is a little artificial v.»nuth to brinp; the plants along quickly. The plant is a very rapid grower when it has got over the seedling state and, being such a succulent grower, means that it must be given plentiful supplies of water to keep it growing. When the cooler nights come on the plants should be ready for planting out in their permanent quarters, and if they have overhead protection, such as that afforded by trees, they will not suffer very much from frosts; of course, it is not possible to grow them out in the open, but if this has to be dono they must bo provided with some sort of shading that will exclude frosts. Sowing the seed is a very nice work and brings out all the best that the gardener has in him. The seed is very fine and should be sown in boxes or pots of finely sifted soil and then these are given a good soaking of water, but the seeds are not covered with any soil. A sheet of glass is then put over the pot or box to keep the moisture in until the young plants appear, and as soon as this happens the glass is lifted, so as to allow air to circulate freely. As soon as the young plants have got their second leaves they are pricked out into pots or boxes and are grown on as quickly as the conditions will allow and are hardened off as tlie growth proceeds. If it is wanted to plant them out in a district where frosts are very severe it is a better plan to pot them up into small pots and

keep moving them on into, larger ones until such times as the weather is warm enough to allow them to grow. They like a good rich bed to grow in and it pays well to dig deeply and- to manure the soil freely. 'j ,

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Chrysanthemum growers must bo watchful now to keep the caterpillars aAvay from their plants or many of the buds will bo destroyed in a single night. These caterpillars make their homes in a rolled-up leaf and come out at night to feed on the buds. Being rolled up like this means that spraying with an insecticide does not hurt them, but if the plants are sprayed with some arsenate of lead, which will cover the buds and leaves, when the insect takes a bite it is poisoned. All buds wanted for show blooms will have been selected by now and as soon as they have set it is time to begin feeding operations With chrysanthemums this is one of the most important things of all, because it depends upon the way in which the food is given to them and the different kinds used as to the ultimate results as regards size and form of the flowers. Soot is always the foundation of any liquid manure that is used, and a kerosene tin half filled should be nut in a sack and this sack suspended in a tub or barrel of water. The other manure that is to be used can be treated in the same way, and after about three or four days take about a gallon of the water and mix it with about three times its own' quantity of clear water. Then if the plants are at all dry at their roots water them well and then give them a gallon of the liquid manure. The animal manure should bo changed for the next lot and the plants should be treated in the same way again. This- should be continued until the flowers are beginning to show colour nicely, wheiuit must be discontinued or they will begin to damp off, which is a trouble that some growers always have, especially when the plants are grown in the saine beds for several years in succession without giving the beds a good dose of lime in between whiles. It is also necessary to put up some sort r of cover to keep the dew and rain out of the flowers; this is generally done by means of a cover-, ing of calico, or if the plants-are in pots they are moved into a glass house to finish off. As long as it is possible to admit plenty of light and air this is a very good plan. It is not generally known that a plant can be lifted when it is in full flower and put in a pot as long as it is lifted carefully ant is watered until it is established in its new quarters. The blooms can be cut and kept ill a darkened room for about a fortnight if the water is changed every day. POLYANTHAS AND PRIMROSES.

"Primrose" says: "Would you kindly give a few hints about raising and growing primroses and polyanthus. These are great favourites with many people and yet very few know anything about them. Do you think that good seed can be got or raised in New Zealand? I have a collection of about 50 colours and have plenty of room for more, which, perhaps, I could raise for myself."—lt would be easy enough to raise all the seed you want in your own garden, providing that the varieties that you have are good ones. The present day primroses and polyanthus are the results of crossing the common English primrose with the polyantha type, and it does not matter now careful one may bo there is sure to be a certain amount of both in any seed that you may save. No doubt some of the others have got into the cross, which will, to some extent, account for the extra colours being grown nowadays. The best primrose seed is saved by selecting plants of unusual vigour and allowing the flowers to set seed and then sowing it as soon as it is ripe. As soon as the young plants aro large enough_ to handle they are pricked out into other boxes of prepared soil and are kept growing by keeping them in a shady place and giving plenty of water as it is required. Then, early in the autumn, a special bed is made up with plenty of cow manure in a shady place, and the young plants are set out in this about a foot apart. When,they bloom it is a good plan to take up all that are of poor colours; then when blooming is over the plants that are left in the bed may be divided up and planted out to fill the bed again. During the summer and hot months of the .year they make very little growth, but as soon as the cooler weather of autumn comes they begin to grow at once. There are some firms in England which are making a speciality of growing seed for sale, and it is always worth while to get some of it, as it generally contains about 10 per cent, of extra good stuff. If the seed is sown as soon as it arrives in New Zealand it comes up well and the young plants can be treated in the same way as your own seed. It is a good principle never to throw away any plants that you may get until you have tested the flowering for a year or so. The varieties that come primroses this year may very likely come polyanthus next, but'as long as they are good colours it does not matter.. If you wish to try your hand at hybridisation it would be a good plan to get some of the other kinds which are on the market, and try crossing and recrossing them.* This has,been done in England and there are many hybrids offered every year which are very fine things, but in many cases they do not seed.

PERENNIAL PLANTS. A correspondent says: "It is with great pleasure that I note that you are directing attention to the large host of perennial "plants which we have waiting for proper appreciation. I have given up annuals altogether in favour of the perennial plants and am quite confident .that if anyono else did the same they.would think as I do. The perennial poppies are particular favourites of mine and I find that all of them are easily raised from seed, but unfortunately some of them are very shortlived, and the only really practical method of renewing them is by means of seed. The Iceland poppy is a case in point and it should be treated strictly as a biennial. It 'is now sixyears since I first began growing these plants and during that time I have increased the colours considerably by hand-fertilising the flowers. It is quite possible to increase the size of the flowers by good cultivation. I have found, however, that once you begin to do this you must be prepared for some of the plants dying. These plants are not to be treated in the same way as ordinary annuals, but should be transplanted straight out into their permanent quarters from the seed boxes, giving them at least 15in apart. Then when they bloom mark a few of the very best for seed purposes and sow the seed as soon as it is ripe. Oriental poppies are also very useful and are readily increased by means of root cuttings when once you have got a good variety. Pentstemons and statice are well worth growing, but unfortunately the best of the latter varieties are subject to frosts and are easily cut down at their best flowering period unless protected. We have very few of the' alpine campanulas in New Zealand and these should be an interesting family to try and acclimatise. Sidaleeas and verbascums are becoming quite common with us, but they are not generally known; perhaps their colours aro not pleasing enough, but for all that they are useful. I am trying some differ-ent-varieties of hollyhocks this year and will let you know the results later. There are one or two plants that I am

anxious to get, but have not been able to find any in catalogues. The first are varieties of Eremurus; can these bo got in New Zealand; They are most showy and are worthy of a place in any garden. There is a plant I saw in England called Olearia semidentata, which I have tried to get, but have so far failed. The plant I saw was labelled New Zealand. and was a beauty. If any of your readers could tell me where it could be got I would be very thankful."

PENTSTEMONS (Contributed.)

There are perennials in plenty for our gardens it we go to the trouble tfo look for them, but there are very few that compare with pcntstemons for length of timo of flowerjng or for glorious colours. Certainly we have not got the tango shades of the antirrhinums or the blues of somo other varieties, but we have some glorious reds and scarlets which defy competition anywhere. The pinks are not perhaps true pinks, but they are quite good, and when properly cultivated make such a show that one wishes ifhat they were more grown. I have been growing these flowers for some years, but I do not know much about them yet, and it is only recently that I have gone in for the newer named varieties. Some of these have reached the apex of all that is necessary to make a good flower, but there aro one or two colours which want some improvement in colour and habit. You ask for suggestions and some cultural details, and I can only give you my own experiences with the plants I have tried to inake a success of. I like to get my cuttings in early. Theso cuttings are made from the young growths that spring out from the sides of the old iknVering stalks after they have been cut down and not on any consideration from the old wood, as I know many people do. They get flowers sooner from the old wood, but the spikes are not as large or as fine as from these young growths. They are torn off the old stalk and the end trimmed with a sharp knife and are then put in a box of sand in a cold frame, and are not allowed to flag for want of water. It does not take them long to root and as soon as they are rooted they are potted up into threeinch pots and are stood outside as soon as they are over the potting. When this has been "done the bed is prepared for them by trenching and incorporating in it plenty of cow manure or anything else that I can get. It is essential to have the soil rich if good flowers are wanted. After the bed has settled down the plants are set out and they will begin to grow at once. The only thing about setting them out is that the soil must be workable and not wet; the season does not matter. They will grow all winter if set out early. When the first flower heads begin to appear the bed gets a mulch of fowl manure, which is left on the surface for a few days and is then hoed in, and the bed is 'then watered regularly. There are few liner sights than a good bed and .the plaiks bloom from September until the frosts get too strong for them if the old flower spikes are cut off as soon as they have done blooming. QUESTIONS.

"E.A." says: "Could you tell me if one can prune or clip evergreens at this time of the year without hurting the trees; also which are the best months for this class of work?"—We are afraid that this is a question that can-_ not be satisfactorily answered here, because there are so many different kinds of evergreens, and some of them require pruning after they have flowered, so as to get fresh wood for their flowers in the spring, while there are others that have their flowers on the old wood and these require different treatment. Then there aro conebearing trees, such as the cupressus family for an illustration, which can be pruned or clipped at almost any season of the year. As a general ride very little pruning of evergreens is required, and in the case of flowering evergreen shrubs all that is done is the removal in the winter of old and exhausted growths. When shoots are cut back annually, as is done in many cases under the erroneous impression that an annual pruning is a necessary part in the management of shrubs, they produce but few if any flowers and present a formal and altogether unsatisfactory appearance. Branches that spoil the shape of a specimen, or one-that may be invading the walk, may be cut hard back. Specimen shrubs and trees on a lawn rarely want, any pruning at all, and again if they are in a shrubbery and are beginning to overcrowd one another it would be better to consider the removal of the worst specimens altogether, so as to give the others plenty of room. If you could tell us the shrubs you want to cut it is quite possible that we could help you. "Palm" says: "I have two palms growing in pots; ono is about five feet high and the other is about three feet, and some of the leaves arc beginning to turn yellow and otherwise look unhealthy. The larger one does not grow as weil as it should. They aro kept well watered and are put outside about twice a week on an average to get air and sun."—Most probably the cause of your palm failing is that -the soil it is growing in is getting sour, and it would be all the better for a fresh potting. Take the plant out of the pot and with a small stick take as much soil away from the roots as possible without hurting them; then put it in a fresh, clean pot with plenty of crocks at the bottom to ensure good drainage. Get some well rotted turf and break this up as finely as possible and work it in amongst the roots and give a good soaking to make it settle down. Overwatering causes a souring of the soil and this should be avoided as much as possible. POSES. .

A correspondent has been importing seeds of various roses and be finds that some of them are not much like the roses he has hoen led to expect. He says: "Some time ago I read a very interesting article by one of the leading English rose growers in one of the magazines and was so struck with it that 1 sent Home and got seeds of as many species as/I could get, with the promise' that more would follow later on. After waiting for nearly two years the seed began to come up and some of the plants have bloomed. From what. I was lead to expect I am disappointed with the whole lot. Rosa Moyesii was said to be a splendid, red, and with me it has come JKdirty white, and few of the others have nothing special to recommend them. Rosa spinnosissima, which is called the Scotch rose on the packet, is nothing like the flowers illustrated in Pembertoii's book. Can you tell me anything about these sppcies and how others have found them behaving? I hav£ about a dozen varieties to flower yet and some of these may be alright when they come to maturity."—We do not know very much about the rose species and beyond a few varieties have not got any of theVecently discovered ones. Rosa Moyesii does not come true from seed with us and varies in colour from a dirty white to a" dullish red. For all that, we have seen a plant with flowers of a very startling colour, and if it could be got it is certainly worth growing. As the seedlings varied so much we wrote to England to find out if the true variety had been sent, and found out that it is not a true species but a natural hybrid from Rosa Fargesii and that is the cause of the variations. Rosa Hugonis comes true from seed, but its flowers are very poor; at the same time/the hips are wonderfully

beautiful, and the plant 4 is well Avorth growing as a berry shrub" for winter decorations, ltosa Bracteata is another variety, that is worth growing for its quaintness. This rose is often referred to as the Macartney rose,- because it was introduced into England from China by Lord Macartney. It is a climbing rose, that should be given the benefit of a wall to climb up, and it must never be pruned. It may take a year or two to become established, but when once it begins to throw up its long shoots it will reward you for any troublo that you may take with it. If you look up the analysis of species in Pomberton's book you will find that there aro several varieties that should be classed as hybrids, which aro grown and sold as species. The stock most commonly used for budding is a cross between Indica and Gallica. VEGETABLES.

All potato crops are about ready for lifting now and this is work that should be done at once. Lift the tubers carefully and store them in a dark place where tho light does not get to them. There is a considerable amount *of grumbling amongst gardeners and others about the amount of blighted potatoes that are to be found in every crop, but in such a season as this it is an unavoidable nuisance and the best thing one can do is to save what they have without waiting for more trouble. Onions should also be lifted and stored away in a dry place where they can be looked over as often as possible to see that none of them are rotting, or are getting moist. Leeks and celery should be ready for earthing up now, especially the earliest planted part of these crops. We believe that wrapping brown paper round" the stalks of celery is one of the best things that can be done, as it not duly keeps the earth from getting to the hearts of the plants but it also seems to keep slugs out. When the earth is drawn up to the plants any string that was used to keep the stalks together should bo removed, or it will be inclined to make the plants rot in the middle. Leeks are easier to manage and they simply want the earth drawn up to them and plenty of food poured into the ground to keep them growing. ■ As the weather is likely to get colder now it is very likely that'we shall get a frost at any time, and therefore it is necessary to pick and store any marrows or pumpkins that are ready. It is easy enough to see when marrows are ripe enough to take into safety, but with pumpkins it is not necessary to wait until they are absolutely ripe, as they can be stored as soon as the outer skin is hard enough to stop the finger nail making a mark upon it. They will keep best when put on the dry ground under trees, such as pine needles or under a niacrocarpa hedge. As soon as the growths on the asparagus bed show signs of turning yellow cut them away and give the bed a good dressing of manure; some growers say a good dressing' of salt, but we think that salt is ( inclined to keep the soil wet and does not let the plants make such an early growth as they should. A dressing of nitrate of soda about the end of July is far better and will give them some help when it is Avanted. Rhubarb should have a dressing of manure this month or as soon as it can bo conveniently put .on the bed. This plant is a gross feeder and is also a plant that wastes a lot if it is not fed up to its full requirements.