THE GARDEN.

Mataura Ensign, 18 July 1914, Page 2

THE GARDEN.

Notes by Amateur, SWEET PEAS. PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. Sweet peas will thrive in almost any i soil, providing they have a fair depth I and the ground fairly good, but for exhibition purposes the whole .secret of success lies in the preparation of the soil; for no matter how good the variety or how well the plants may be fed, unless the ground has been thoroughly prepared you cannot reasonably expect to get sood exhibition blooms, such as are required to win prizes. A fairly heavy soil suits them best, as they continue flowering for a much longer period and also grow much stronger than oil a light ground. The whole of the soil should be trenched to a depth of two arid a-half to three feet. Tliis should be done as early as possible in the season to allow it to well settle before planting time. In trenching, the two top spits .should be taken out to allow a good start, then work a good dressing of. well-rotted manure and a sprinkling of bone meal and soot into the subsoil, and tread very firmly before proceeding with the next trench. The two top spits from this will be used to refill the one taken out, but "in doing so mix in a slight dressing of short manure and bonemeal as the work proceeds, to ensure the roots having something to feed on all the while. Do not put the manure in layers, but thoroughly mix the whole compost together. This should give a depth of two or three feet when finished, The above applies to either sand or clay subsoil. One of the chief things in growing , sweet peas is to make your ground firm. Nothing is so detrimental to them , as loose- and hollow soil; hence the . necessity for trenching early. The top should be allowed' to lie as rough as possible, to allow the frost and air to do their work during the winter and early spring. About the end of September a slight dressing of soot over the surface will do good if forked lightly in just before planting time. The above hints are for intending ex- , hibitors, but really good swee-t peas for , garden decorations or ordinary cutting ■ purposes can be grown without going to all the trouble detailed above. Simply dig the ground as deep as possible, add well-rotted manure, and tread firmly, as already advised. Many amateurs err by leaving the plants too thickly in the rows; even when growing for the garden there should .bo a. space of «t least nine inches between each plant. Finer blooms and healthier plants will be obtained, as when overcrowded they become weakly and drawn and produce .small flowers. THE HOTBED. MATERIALS AND PREPARATION. In the process of decomp-.--.ition a mass of organic matter yields u>i heat. This heat is of great value to tjie gardener, for by its help he can raise very early crops of succulent vegetables and flowering plants, or he can propagate half-hardy plants and cuttings, having them ready for bedding out in early summer: Unless the organic matter (farmyard manure, leaves, grass, weeds, etc.) is properly built tip its heat is generally .mo violent and brief in duration; but a properly-prepared mars —a hotbed, as it is called—retains its heat for a long time. Horse litter, containing plenty of straw which has been saturated in urine, is the best material for « hotbed-; fresh leave.9, grass, and peat-moss litter give too violent a -heat and their! period of utility is thereby lessened. The ideal material, on the seoro nf | cheapness combined with efficiency, is composed of horse litter and leaves or grass in about equal proportions; b-ut it- is right ty sav that amateurs will manage to construct a hotbed from any or all of those substances mentioned. Get the manure fresh from tho stable (the other materials should also be fresh, and their treatment is very similar to that 'adopted with horse manuue) and throw it into a loose, conical heap. In two days' 1 time turn this heap over, placing the inside layers to the outside and the top to the bottom of the new'! heap; be sure, also, to mix tho droppings thoroughly with the straw, and to stack closely. Repeat this operation three days later, and th.en turn it over a third time -after a period of three or four days; leaves, grass, etc., should not be mixed with it until towards the end. The heap, will now be well aired or sweet, and almost- free from rank steam and violent- heating. ' MAKING THE HOTBED.

Position counts for much in making the hotbed, and this should ho considered in good time. Select a dry part of the garden in a sunny (place sheltered from cold winds, see that the ground is drained, then tramp'the surface firm and hard. Some gardeners are of opinion that it is a good plan to bury the hotbed partially, and if this is desired, a hole of requisite size should be dug in this position; take care, that it is thoroughly drained, and place a layer of rough stones in the bottom. Place a six-inch layer of manure on tlie site, then tramp and bent it as firmly as possible, solidity being an element of success in hotbed cultivation. Repeat with another six-inch layer, and so on until all the manure is used up; the final size depends wholly 011 the manure to be used. Quite commonly hotbeds . are noticed three or four feet high; two feet is frequently seen, and it may be taken as a law that the greater the size the longer does the heat last. Length and breadth are ruled by the frame which is to be employed, 18 to 24 inches wider each way being allowed. If the garden contains a brick-built frame, dig all the soil out of this and fill it up with manure, beaten firm; spread soil on top, and a very reliable hotbed is thus secured. Leave the light well tilted for a few days to let rank gases escape. Another modification adopted by the man of economical genius is to build the bed with sloping sides, to cover these' thinly with soil, and to use them as a plunging bed for boxes of cuttings, or for raising early crops of certain subjects.

MANAGEMENT. A hotbed made in the above way will last for eight to 12 weeks. Ram a stick into the manure and leave it there for a time, testing it every day about the same hour; whenever it can be held comfortably in the hand and the heat is no longer rising, the hotbed is ready for use. Place the frame on top, spread a layer of about, four inches of lumpy, fibrous soil, then an inch layer of sifted soil, sand, and' leafmould in equal parts, and sow the seeds. Boxes or seed-pans are preferable in some cases ; when they are employed. spread a thin layer of cinders in the bottom of the frame, and place the boxes on this, seeds having been sown in the usual way in the soil of these boxes. This latter plan is much better than the former when a varied number of plans will be raised, since each box of seedlings can be removed and hardened as desired. Ventilation is an important item in

If a child once gets a really bad cold it is always liable to a return of the trouble. Mothers should always have a reliable cough medicine at hand to check a cold in its earlv stages. Baxter's Lung Preserver is a remedy that has been before the. public for half a century, and it has certainly proved its ■worth as a cure for all kinds of colds. A Is lOd bottle will keep the whole family free from colds. Order Lung Preserver from your chemist or storekeeper or direct from J. Baxter and Co., Chemists, Christchurch. 126

hotbed management. Be sure to s:ive sufficient\to carry oft' all foul steam which may gather, and at the same time avoid too free access of told air; cover up with mats 011 a cold night. If the heat subsides before the hotbed lias completed its work, fresh manure direct from the stable is banked up all round the frame and .sides; these can be removed and fresh material added if necessary. Quantity is again immaterial, the more used the higher and more lasting is the heat. AX OLD HOTBED. After the manure has served its useful existence as a hotbed, it is then in the condition known as rotted or decayed manure. Tt is short, dry, darkcolored , and friable, being particularly useful for potting purposes; it can easily be rubbed through a riddle, if so advised, to ensure a uniform compost. Apart from its use in the potting shed, the manure will he round excellent for summer mulching, but it can be employed freely wherever organic manure is recommended .