WESTWARD HO!

Mataura Ensign, Volume 15, Issue 1352, 29 December 1893, Page 5

WESTWARD HO!

The Overland Route to the Sutherland Falls and Milfbrd Souad. The following account ha* for. in chiaf object the imparting of practical information of the trip teMtlfpid Sound, "'. yiaTe Anau, Clinton Valley, M'Kiunon's Pass and the vail vy. of the Arthur river. The writer has just arrived /home with a party of seven, after: miking the return journey, and takes the. first opportunity patting the result of careful n<>tetakin g into print, with the feeling that in bo doing he is offering a. humble tribute to ■ the glories of Nature as developed m this m*stwonderfal region. Oar party comprised—Mr and Mrs Theodore Kin^t, Mrs -J. 8., Dick, Mr S. M. Bobbins, Mr A. Latham^Mr A. EC. Hiddleston, and yours. truly,lGeorgeF. Allen. Mr King (who, with Mr Latham, made the 1 sarnie trip five, years ago) male all arrangements as to." tucker " and other necessaries* and *he individual members U&& their specialties, provided for ia the Way of sketching materials and, ia the Base^of Mr Bobbins, a photo^npji.} turnV' We left Gore on Friday, December 1, .in a waggonette provided by Brewer and Trembath (and I will just note here, without any. intention o£ advertising any that the conveyance, team, horses anS, driver ; were the most perfectly equipped and most enjoyable means of travelling I have ever experienced). .. Leaving at 9.30, we made Balfour in time for dinner at MacPherson's Hotel ; ' and then off again to Lumsden, where we spell the horses for an hour ; then on to Mossburn, where we spend the night. Early next morning, away to the hills, in advance of a party of three gentlemen bound for Manapouri, and with a juvenile feeling that we should commence as early as possible, we pass .Mr Bench's „ (key to the Lakes) and, -'n£gun&<the Mararoa river, boil the billys overhaul the provisions, and partake of lunch. Then, impatient for the road, we spin •loßg, with the rugged Takatimos on our left» their heads enveloped in mist, for the most part but still, suggesting the possibility of an imposing picture (when 3 ttye mists have rolled away). , , ," • ' A striking feature of thio road just here is what is called the wilderness, a dry shingly patch of country as level and clean as a macadamised road, without a single blade . of grass or any vegetation except a dry moss, and a> succession of big pine trees, having the appearance of being carefully trimmed into symmetrical f -ma, and the whole conveying an idea of a carefully laid out park. Now* tUo range .of mountains surrounding Mauapouri begins to loom in the distance, and we realise that the promised land is in view. ' So on across the plains, past Lin wood station, and eventually we pull up at Snodgrass' Te Auau Hotel with, I must admit, a feeling of disappointment at the first Appearance of the Like ; but wait ft bit. Mrs Snodgrass tendered us a hearty welcome,and after disposing of our luggage we have time to feast our eyes — not on the Like, but on a garden of Rowers and vegetables, which would not disgrace a professional nurseryman ; and which, as a result of three years' residence, is nothing short of astonishing. Still intent on pushing ahead, we make arrangements for starting for the head of Te Anau at 6 o'clock next morning, and -that hour" discovers us" on the jeity with out paraphernalia en evidence. Alongside is the redoubtable steamer Bippie, om.-e known as the Te (Jri, but so transformed by the addition of a deck, cabin, and unlimited paint, as to have lost her identity With "Brods's" historical oraft. 1 We go aboard to find her in charge of Messrs Miffen and George Witt, engineer and, steersman respectively, and two mo c efficient officers no one could desire. We have two fellow passengers ia a D< James, and Sir Gervase Glyn, Bart, two who prove .themselves to be agreeable company and ardent admirers of the beauties of the Lake. But lam £oing too fast;, for the beauties of the Lake are still only prospective. The settlement of Te Anau is at a point of the Lake devoid of any beauty, but this has its advantages, for . on leaving the jetty and rounding Lagoon Point we begin to realise there is something ahead of us. Steaming at the rate^pf 6to 7 knots we. pass the mouth of the S.W. - Arm and Garden Point. Straight abend, there dawns on our expectant optics, with the effect of a dissolving view, the promise of a landscape, which quickens fchV pulses of our artists, and has the effect of producing sketch blocks, etc., for a preliminary canter. As we advance, and draw nearer the shore at various points in our course.there are exclamations of wonder at the beauty of the bush , wLich reached; from the water's edge, and rose in endless succession of birch and ironwood, the former a revelation in brown- • greens, the latter affording a beautiful relief of bronze-like foliage and gorgeous bloom, the whole studded and diversified - with fern and cabbage trees, softened as we lift our eyes, with tho graceful lichen, and framed with mighty and- jutting points of granite. The notes of admiration, I repeat, are unanimous. Steven o'clock brings us to a convenient landing place, the dingy is brought alongside, and most of our party land, and soon prepare a light repast, which is ultimately partaken of on the gteamer's deck on account of the persistent attentions of »he lively sandflly. our voyage, we paßs in sueoesrion the Middle and North Aims, our worthy captain indicating the principal named points as they eventuate. Leolsland is sighted and passed, and as the endless panorama unrolls its length on either side of us we open up the entrance of Worsley Creek* which we at once conclude to be the head of the Lake; but still keeping to- the eastward we pass round Foliage Hill» whici is happily named, and which ; forms one shoulder of the Narrows. Then we behold the head of the Lake proper, with its breadth of comparatively ; »tilf water, y strips of sandy beach, numerous bays and jutting promontories Still luxuriant with bush to the water's edge; and over and abojre all % we are inrrounded with the towering height of Mounts Largs, Skilmorly Wd Anau, and as .we near the coast, atiead of us we * notice a small shelving island, which our steersman makes a bee-lins for, and soon we hear the grating of our keel on the {(ravel, and we have arrived at end of our day's journey. , ■ Loading the tender with a cargo ot luggage, the pilot and I pull for the landing, below the Government hut, and return in time to make a component part ' of the first photograph, of thoMaip.- Then all hands make for camp, saluted on % arrival by the ever to be remembered— • sandfly and her relations. Hanged in battalion, they evinced their loyalty by singing f God save the Queen,' end have '•"'■ kept on, singing the refrain, with short j J for refreshment," ever tsince. | : \ofj»fijiiJi calculations, and fearful impreca- \ , tibnji»Btate the average attendance of these : - -to 2DO to tho square Inch i|*fp|j^f]pdemjp/rfnd' "X,: c-ai jersonally.

.guarantee them all working members. i Being the first tourists of (lie season we 1 expected to find the accommodation ' ra'.hor mixed, and are not disappointed ; hut we soon get to work and prepare a feH. In the meantime a qu&rte»te of the -party load up a swae and travel a pta^e on the bush track, just to get our feet into the necessary twist. We find the track a bit steep in some places and a j darned sight steeper in others; bac we peg on for about sis miles by our calcula- , fcioa (we, afterwards fiud that we travelled nearly two miles), a»id then, planting' our burden in a dry place, we return. On the way back one of our party makes a rush into thu undergrowth and returns holding by the tail wbat tnrned out to be si Kakapo. With this trophy and a sample of quartz studded with mica, we arrive at tae nut, where a good feed provided by the ladies qualifies v* for slumber. Being slightly disturbed for about eight hour 3by what I calculated to be fleas, I was early astir, and discovered that I had rolled in my blanket a whole regiment of sandflies, aud it was their sustained efforts to eat thoir way out again that led me to libelling the harmless flea. Next morning at 7 o'clock we are ready for the road, and by dint of marching five minutes and resting manfully for ten minutes, we arrived in course of time at next feed, which is partaken of at the toot of a turbulent rapid on the Clinton, which forms the subject for picture No. 2. Glorious weather, so far, enables us to fully appreciate *he beauties of the river, which in places was just one greenish-tinted body of crystal, revealing, the treasures of pebbled and broken quartz forming the bed of the stream, and reflecting with marvellous fidelity the wealth of foliage on the banks. Occasional glimpses of snow-covereJ peaks and azure hills elicit bursts of admiration from all hands, and slowly but surely we arrive at a suitable camping place about half way to Lake Mintara, which is at the eastern foot of the saddle. Pitching our tents we are' not long turning in, and although we have a threatening of rain during the night, the morning is fine &s ever, and breakfast is soon on the table, or rather on the ground. Leaving provisions for the return journaj and also planting our largest tent, with the expectation of finding a hut at Mirtara, we resume our travelling and sundown finds us there, but, alas, nary hut. (We find thab the timber iv the locality being rather small, the . contractors are waiting till it grows, this beiag much easier than altering the site a few chains.) Fortunately, Captain Brodrick, who is head of the firm of contractors, has a spare tent, and we manage to get under cover in time to roostt Wednesday morning being propitious as to weather, we start to olimb the saddle by McKinuon'a Pass, and although decidedly up hill on the way to the top it i« even more decidedly down hill "on the way to the bottom, so that the average wouia be level walking — if not mora so. I wns nearly forgetting to mention that the contractors accompanied us over the saddle, Mr Stevens by way of helping to carry our properties, tirtd Captain Brodrick for the nike of having a little fresh air (and he got it). We rest a bit at the top of the saddle, to enable us to view the mighty surroundings ai *d I suppose' any white man would consider himself repaid for the trouble of climbing there, by the wonderful picture on every side. I never imagined the world to be so bin as it appears from this outlook. A ventoble cyclorama of river and busb, mountain and precipice, glacier and waterfall, contrasted with the bare stretch of the saddle, made a study fit for a whole generation of painters. Moving on again we have time to notice that the mountain lily, the mountain daisy, and cotton plant are all blooming around us, and admiring these, by tlie way, we gradually skirt the upper base of Mount Balloon and descend to the bush line on the down track to the Beech huts, where we arrive rather puffed out, but in raptures with tbe scenery and pleased with having negotiated the saddle. After tea most of the party made a rush to see the Sutherland Fails which are l^- miles from the huts. About half-way along the track we got the first glimpse through the trees, but it waß on arriving that the mighty volume of ever descending water impresses you with woader. . . These falls have been too often described to require more than a passing notice, so we will get back to Beech huts, where we get a good night's rest, and start on Thursday morning down the Arthur Valley. After a slight digression by two of the party who wanted to discover a new track but soon altered their intentions, we get into full swing and, getting lunch at a pretty spot on the Arthur River we suddenly camo on a metalled footpath, and a few minutes iater encountered a party of workmen und<r the superintendence of Mr Price, who kindly gave us directions as to getting down Lake Ada, which was accomplished by means of a dingy belonging to the U.S.S. Co. and a flat boat owned by the Government. On our way to the landing we had to negotiate rather a. tough passage round a rocky face overhanging the river, but with the help of some of- the road party we managed it all right, and then our two boats started down the lake, running aground a few times on the shallows and trying to shift an occasional snag. An hour and a half brought us to the bottom landing, where there are three boats oE various denominations. As the boats have to be returned to head of lake three of our crowd started back with them, and camped for the night with the road party, while the rest pegged on intending to reach Milford Sound and Mr Sutherland's abode, but on arriving at the ; Arthur river landing we found only a wretched flatty hauled high and dry and looking as if it wanted re-makir. **, so I we decided to remain at the landing overnight. Accordingly we took possession of a two-roomed hut used as a storehouse by the road party, and camped there, ' spending the night in killing time and and sandflies mixed, ".Next morning being wet, the rearguard did not roll up till 11 o'clock, when Mr Latham and I decided to launch the gunboat or flatty and see if she would leak, j As she took nearly ten minutes to get full up, we thought we would start and chance it. I will skip the particulars of the journey to Sutherland's, and resume my narrative at the boat-landing where we found the redoubtable D. Sutherland waiting our arrival. On explaining the condition of affairs he at once launched a good-sized boat, and with yours truly, who wished to know what the distance was when negotiated in the ordinary manner, soon reached the Arthur Jliver landing and brought the rest of the party on to his camp. There • wo found a good-siged house fitted up j witli first- class accommodation, and in the } charge; of Mrs D. Sutherland, who proved

. he-self to be a competent cook aud i ra.erer for hungry travellers, i Having arrived at the end of our I journey »s regards tramping we speafc the ', next fou>- .Uys in boating, fishing, eketchiag, shadow catching, and i i vari v < ways i enj >y'mg ourselves thoroughly. We admired the B>wen Falls, sail -d to the , heads pa-t Mitre Peak, Lion Rock and i the Sterling Falls (where we had a shower bath),pt(;nicked at Harrison Cove, aud otherwise did the Sound propeily. After lunch on Tuesday, the 12th, we bade good bje^t Mrs Sutherland, and in the charge of Sutherland an<i his mate we started back again. On reaching Price's c»mp it commenced to rain, »ud being advised not to attempt to make Beech huts we cam ped there tor the night and in the morniug had the pleasure of seeing the Arthur river some 15 feet higher than when we turned in. „ The flood soon subsided,and at mi lrr&ay we started off again and retched theßeeeh buts just a bit wet about the legs^but jolly as sandflies. A roaring fife soon dried our clothes and the bunks were again in requisition. Thursday morning was occupied by another trip to the Sutherland Falls, after which we made a bold start, and arrived safely over the saddle in time for an early camp, having collected specimens of mountain flora and re-admired ths outlook from the high track in passing. Next two days enabled us to make easy stages to the Head of Te Anau, where we found Messrs D. Ross, T. ]ST. and J. C. Quill, who are commissioned by Government to improve the track in Clinton Vailey and build an accommodation hut at Half-way Camp. The members of this trio were agreeable and well informed on local matters ; and as they were in possession of the Clinton hut our party pitched tents at the head o£ lake, and made sundry excursions in tho vicinity by the aid of a boat belongipg to Captain Brodrick and mate. Before leaving this part of our trip, I would presume to suggest a few requirements which could be easily met by Government and would make the trip available for all sections of tourists. There is need of a good strong boat of light draught at the head of tho lake which would enable tourists to avoid the steep climb for a start, and join the track at MeKinnbn's Hut about two miles up the Clinton river, and would also be of great service in exploring the head of the lake. Then there are parts of track, especially from Beech huts to Sutherland Falls.that are overgrown with grass and shrub.*, making it. a very wet walk for some time after rain. As there are Government boats oa Lake Ada a proper understanding as to tourists' right to use them w"ould save a good deal of inconvenience at times. Of course Mr Sutherland has boats to fetch visitors from the Arthur river landing, but communication is very uncertain and I think it only fair that such a glorious section of our West Coa-it should at least be free from anything like a monopoly. To resume. The s.s. 11 pple sounded her whistle punctually at the appointed time, and as we roll up to meet her we have a good opjortunity to appreciate the gigantic nature of our surrouiuiiNgo, for at only hi If a mile from us the steamer is hardly visible, being dwart'ed by the "everlnsting hills." A drizzly morning greets us ready for a start down the lake with our souvenirs of the trip on eve»y side, including some 60 photo negatives, <m abundance of sketches both in " oil " and " black and white," feras and plants of every description, and geological specimens by way of ballast, not to mention a lot of curios from the bush and driftwood from Te Anau. Soon after leaving tho head of the lake the weather cleared, and we had a very pleasant, paasage.oooupying rather under seven hours. A kind reception from Mrs Snodgrass welcomes us back to comparative civilisation, and a hearty feed of ripe strawberries on the go as you please principle "fetches the crowd." After ringing the changes on our experiences we retired for the night, only to rise and prepare for the coach ride to Manapouri, which reminds one of the switchback, only more so. Our anticipations of the Pouri, as the natives call it, are very pleasant, as judged by the appearance of the range of mountains over the lake ; and on pulling np at the end of our journey we gazed on a very pleasant picture of Manapouri and its islands. But sad to have to relate " a change came o'er the spirit of our dream," for instead of a cheeriul host and hostess to welcome the weary traveller, behold the very opposite. Expecting to find simply an accommodation house where we could get a decent meal and bed and settle our little bill and move on, we were astounded to discover the poorest substitute for anything of the kind ever met with outside the pages of Dickens. But let me draw the curtain of oblivion over the scene, and forget the only unpleasant feature of our trip, except one, and that is the following : — By previous arrangement our party had agreed to charter the steamer Titiroa to take us to the head of Lake Manapouri, and we started at 7 a.m. on Thursday, 21st inst., and with Si light wind made Fairy Oove opposite the K.W. arm at 12.20 p.m. This was not so bad as we had no means of logging the distance and the engine travelled at the rate of knots. Lunch was partaken of, two or three photos exposed, and we go aboard expecting to steam up to the head, but our worthy skipper who had two of a crew, engineer aqd first mate, decided that it might come on to blow, and that with an ominous shake of the head decided the matter, and the Titiroa turned tail and fled back to port, still at the rate of knots. Being a bit overcome with, the heavy lunch, the ohronioler first took our bearings and then took a snooze, waking an hour afterwards to hear tie engine still going ahead, but by some strange misunderstanding the steamer was lagging behind, for nary difference conld I see in Our geographical surroundings since I laid me down tc rest. This was getting serious, and I .interviewed the engineer only to find that the firewood was running out, and we should have to call in at Beehive Mountain to replenish the bunkers. " Just round that pomt >s was the direction given, but it took till dark to round it, aid then we find that we still have a couple of miles to go to that firewood. Inspired by the occasion, I jumppd into the d ngy, with the jocular remark that I will go on ahead to load up the' | wood, but on the first mate joining me I find that we actually pulled out of sight of that notable steamer in ten minutes. The remark of the first mate that the boat never travelled so fast before, struck me as rather sarcastic, but I let it pass and pulled straight for that firewood. We loaded a stiffener and then pulled to meet the steamer, which was just coming into sight, and we are soon puffing ahead. Now comes the joke ; our steersman takes a sort of triangular course, but I keep mum as " I ain't no sailor bold." and as the darkness squeezes up we begin to contemplate the chances of making Lake Te Anau instead of the port of Manapoari. Still later, Mr Latham and I decide to pull for the shore and repeat the handicap business by pulling out of both sight sri.d Rearing oj£ the .Titiroa in 8 ,'Q . " ■-^--._;i:^_iiii£±li: -— — U2£& - ___^_^_La

fqw minutes. Taking oar bearings from our slight observation of the day we .decide on our course and make within a few yards of the buoy. Listening care* fully we hear the puff-puff of the engine, and find that the skipper has evidently tin .off.- the. track, so we requisition th« . s Dare leaves of my note book and light a beacon," whi«h has the effect of altering the steamer's coarse by a right angle ju4 in time "to prevent her b-inginij our party straight on to Gore. Finale : Steamer made fast to buoy at twenty mutates to one on Friday morning, having beat the record and steamed the 14 miles from Fairy Cove in eievea hours, j Another characteristic reception by the | hostess heralds the approach of another apology for a feed, and later in the morning we shake the dust of Manapouri | from our feet and make straight for home, which we reach at 5.30 on Saturday evening after a very pleasant drive.