Fashion and Things Feminine.

Lake Wakatip Mail, Issue 3121, 6 April 1915, Page 7

Fashion and Things Feminine.

ONE-PIECE FROCK WITH KAGLAX SLEEVE.

The blouse with long raglan sleeve is the one that carries all before it, and this is the one that is used. also, in blouse-bodices to one-piece frocks. Jt may proceed from a yoke or direct from the neck of the bodice. With a voke, a little fullness is usually allied to the hatliwe.

lhe raglan sleeve is a very comfortable one—more so than the ordinary Magyar, which is inclined to drag under the arms.

Front fastenings on dresses arc very much more convenient than back one's to the woman who is her own waitingmaid, and numbers of smart as well as simple frocks are nowadays fastened in front. A pretty and serviceable stvle with iront fastening is illustrated. Here we have a dress of the one-pieco kind, suitable for plain or striped material, with simple skirt and blouse-bodice made with the new sleeve.

The pattern of the blouse is in Imparts, and these are indicated on the diagram, which represents from IJ to 2 yards of 10-inch material, folded

lengthwise. The pattern pieces are; One front of blouse, No. I; one sleeve with yoke, No. 2; half the back, No. 3; half the collar. No. 4; and one cull'. No. o. Lay the straight edge of back, of yoke-back and of collar to the fold, so that seams are avoided, and cut out the front and end in duplicate.

In making up. the fronts are gathered to the yoke and the back is also eased. The skirt, high-waisted, is mounted to a petersham belting and is stitched to the bodice, and both fasten with buttons and button-holes.

The skirt is a two-piece one, and the pattern is of half the skirt. The wider diagram shows the half-pattern supposedly laid on from '2\ to 3 yards of double-width material opened out wide Spaee is marked out for the lacking half of the skirt. A S>KT OF INDEBWEAK. So long as there is no indication of greater width coming into skirt fashions, under-skirts must necessarily remain as simple as possible, and the plain-iittillg petticoat with knife-pleat-ed flounce remains, not unnaturally, the favourite, for it in everv wav suite the

needs of fashion, the flounce providing a filling-in for the slit skirt, while it does not in the least interfere with the set of the closed skirt. Petticoats of violet, ochre, and navy alpaca are useful and inexpensive, and others of soft moirettc wear well. The flounces are always well-pressed so that'

ate By IDA MELLER - .

Copyright

they hang straight. Girls who make up their own underclothing and lack a petticoat of the kind mav be recommended to try alpaca, which is lightweight aud inexpensive. The articles of underwear illustrated give some ideas for home-made garments, the patterns selected being simple onos such iis the amateur dressmaker can readily deal with. The girl who is clever ;u embroidery can work lor herself some dainty floral designs across the from of a night-dress, chemise, or underbodice. and make a goodly show at little cost. A French knot trimming is always effective, and where flowers are not used, the French knot should be adopted. No. l i n group-sketch is a chemise, made without a placket after the Krenrh manner preferred to-day. Slits distant from the top edge, and through are made in the material about an inch distant from the top edge, and through these a ribbon is run. A line of embroidery, in a shamrock or flowered design, also trims the neck and is repeated as a border to the short sleeves. A complete underset trimmed in this way would be very pretty. A picot edging is added to the chemise.

Xo. L' is a divided petticoat, with flounce of lace or embroiderv and per-fect-fitting waist. This type of undergarment is easily made up. No. 3 is an under-bodice with straight-across top. This, again, is very simple to make, as the pattern does away with the shaping of an armhole. The top of the bodice is composed of a wide band of embroidery, put on with a heading and threaded with ribbon, and the shoulder straps are also of embroidery, edged, like the neck of the bodHe, with lace or frilling. No. I is a plackotless night-dress, drawn up at the neck with ribbon, and the sleeves are finished in a similar wav.'