DIARY OF A TRIP FROM BIG BAY TO THE HEAD OF LAKE WAKATIP.

Lake Wakatip Mail, Issue 786, 3 December 1873, Page 3

DIARY OF A TRIP FROM BIG BAY TO THE HEAD OF LAKE WAKATIP.

Mr A. H. Williamson, well known as an experienced pioneer of the West Coast, has kindly placed at our disposal the following notes of a recent journey from Big Bay to Lake Wakatip. The information contained in the diary, and the immense practical benefits likely to accrue to this district and Province from Mr Williamsou's discoveries invest his remarks with more than ordinary interest. The traveller started from the mouth of the Awarua River, Big Bay, on Saturday, 22nd November, with the object of finding an inland passage to the Hollyford River, and thence to the Head of Lake Wakatip—a route which hitherto had been considered not to be practicable for travelling. We will quote Mr Williamson's diary as to the result:—

Saturday, 22nd Nov.—Took the bush at the entrance of the Awarua Eiver at 11 am., and kept along the foot of the ranges on the north side of the flat till about 3 p.m., when it commenced to rain and I camped. Sunday, 23rd.-Started early, keeping the same direction till about 10 a.m., when I made the river which comes from the Yellow Mountains, running down towards the south side of Big Bay Flat. Fine open country-flax, low bush, and grassy flats. Followed down the river, when to my surprise, instead of running towards Big Bay, it went past and appeared to bend in an inland direction, with a fine open flat country. I was certain then it was none other than Pyke's Creek. Followed along as fast as I possibly could. Fine beaches, with good fords, and at 2 p.m. came to a lake extending the full width of the flat, about two miles square. After having a good look at both sides of this lako I chose the easUide, and when about half-way round my dog, Carlo, slipped and fell over a cliff about 50 or 60 feet into the lake below. Heard him some time afterwards, but could not get to where he was. I believe he must have been smashed, or lie would have swam round. Poor dog; I was sorry indeed to lose him. Got along all right and camped at the west side of the flat, where the lake empties. I named this sheet of water—which is not shown on any map—Lake Macandrew. Monday, 24th—Busy all this day making a " mokihi from flax sticks. Had her finis lied as well as I could about sundown. No sign of Carlo. I am afraid he is gone. Tuesday, 25th—Got up at daylight, and launched my frail bark about sunrise, 'lhere being a thick mist I could not see well till about 10 a°m, when it cleared up. Got along first-rate till about noon, sometimes going at a rapid speed, and whenever the snags would appear any way questionable ahead I kept to one side, then got out and eased the " mokihi" down till they were passed; got on board again, and let her go as fast as possible to the next obstruction. In this way I continued till about one p.m., when I saw another and larger lake, which, by the appearance of the country, I concluded to be Lake Alabaster. After picking up a dozen gulls e <rg S —which were very acceptable—the breeze freshened down the Lake. I spent about an hour rigging a mast, with my tent for a sail, and came down in a short time, keeping close along the eastern shore/ After going down one very rough fall, between Alabaster and the Hollyford, and seeing more in advance, I took out my swag, and in about ten minutes came on to the Hollyford River. Mr Williamson then goes on to say:—Now, although I did not travel along the shore of Lake Alabaster, I sailed close in along the eastern side, and am confident an easy track could be got from where Pyke's Creek joins the Hollyford, five miles above Lake M'Kerrow, right through, not only to Big Bay, but to the entrance of the Terrawat Eiver in Jackson's Bay—no part of it being so difficult as places up and down the Hollyford, where M'Bride's track is cut. It would be open at all seasons, and pass through a considerable extent of county as yet known very little about. As will be seen by any correct map or chart of the Middle Island, the same country extends further seaward than any part from the South-west Cape to Hokitika. The beaches along the sea coast have been well prospected, and payable patches of gold got in places, from Jackson's Bay nearly to Milford Sound ; but inland has had no trial whatever. There are also traces of coal, copper, platinum, and other metals to be found. 'lhe only inland passage that is possible to be got (to be of any service) is through the Greenstone Valley. There are considerable extensive flats in places with fine looking soil, and if I may venture an opinion from what I see around Wakatip, I fancy there are places through it that would do for sheep also. At the same time I do not pretend to be any judge, and at present it would be very expensive to get stock of any kind inland, owing to the bush being so very near the coast. If the General Government's subsidised steamers supply bona fide miners at a reasonable rate, there is no doubt but that the same country will soon be prospected—with what result time will tell. The previous subsidised steamers has been the means of driving away the population, and it is to be hoped these will have a different effect. Had Captain John M'Lean, then of the Alhambra (now of the Albion), in 18G5, continued running, the country would have been prospected (and perhaps permanently settled) years ago. The only river fit for vessels between Jacksons and Martius, is Caskade, and it will be always dangerous to a certain extent owing to the south side of the entrance being rocky and the deepest channel generally hugging the rocks; but with moderate weather, and by being cautious, I believe any steamer drawing five or six feet of water (and perhaps more) could go in or out with perfect safety. There are good places to lay when inside safe from all floods. There are boat harbors in places all along, with great quantities of the finest fish known in New Zealand, and good positions for fisheries. The fur seal is also numerous in places; the climate is very temperate and healthy, and what you may hear about it being always either raining or blowing gales of wind, is complete nonsense, not worth listening to. We certainly have long spells of wet weather at times, but then we have longer spells of splendid dry weather in return. You remember what was said about the weather in Hokitika and the Grey the first tw«-lve months of the rush. I trust that I have said nothing to induce anyone to attempt to go through the route I have described, as, no matter how good a bush-man, he would require to be thoroughly well acquainted with the country before he could find the passage, and there are no half-way houses or stations to hit out for, and no supplies on the coast. In conclusion, should the Otago Government think it worth the trouble to get Dr Hector, or any other gentleman whose report they can place confidence in, I have no objection to accompany him through after Christmas, when we have generally the longest dependable dry weather. I saw in the Wakatip Mail when I was over at Queenstown recently, about some i one having found a passage from the Upper Hollyford into Milford Sound, but I do not

believe the gentleman has ever seen Milford j Sound, for if I recollect right, Dr Hector, when there in 1863 with the " Matilda Hayes," was not able to get a passage over; and in June, the same year, our party, the " Xugget," four men from Harris 'ii's love, and four freni Fresh-water Basin, at the head of the Sound, after spending nearly three weeks with fine weather, could see no chance whatever of getting over; but any one being in Anita Bay—the outer anchorage of Milford Sound—would observe on the opposite (or north) side, a low valley, running inside of Yates' Point and the coast ranges. The same valley joins Kaipq, from thence a low saddle forms which bends to about the centre of Lake M'Kerrow on the south-west side nearly abreast of James Town, the distance being about fifteen miles. I do not believe there is any other practicable inland track to Milford Sound.