THE GARDEN.

Lyttelton Times, Volume CXVII, Issue 17096, 19 February 1916, Page 12

THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK, Seeds to Sow. —Cabbage, cress, lettuce, onions (for salad), peas, ladish, turnip and spinach. ~ AVhat to Plant. —Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, kale .{in variety) and savoy. . ~ Cabbage and every member of the Brassica family are subject to the insistent “cabbage blight, and unless prompt and constant war is waged against these posts the crop mil be a. failure. Dusting the young plants with powdered lime will destroy all the insects that are covered with the lime, hut these are only a fraction ot the number on the plants. Alafny aie on the lower side of the leaves, where the lime cannot touch them, and consequently spraying with a. spray-pump is the only sure method of getting at all the pests. One spraying is not enough. But in a few days sonic winged aphides will come along and perfer to settle on tho clean plants. it is, therefore, necessary to spray sevcial times to keep th plants clan. All of the many insecticides aro effective if used carefully. Remember, force is necessary to drive the solution into the. bodies of the insects It you examine a loaf affected with blight, you will find the insects two, and sometimes three, deep iif the centre or a colony, and unless tho spray fluid is driven on this colony with force only tho top layer of the is destroyed; th others will bo leit to develop and increase bv thousands. , , Some will ask whether it is worth while spraying. .The answer is: If you do not kill the insects, they will destroy your Brassicas, and as these form a largo part of the winter and spring supply of vegetables it should be worth, while' to spray and save the crop. Gardeners are well pleased with excellent rain that fell duriug the past week. It was long overdue, hut will stimulate tho winter vegetables into a very vigorous growth. Seedling crops of spinach, turnips, etc., will . grow very fast now, as the ground' is moist and cool. If any require thinning, do tho work at once, and give the plants plenty of room. Potatoes will give some cause for anxiety, and many of the second early varieties will have to be lifted -at once, although they arc not quite ripe. If left in the ground the young tubers will “grow out” and spoil, but if they are taken up carefully, although the skins are not quite set, it will be better than to leave them in the ground to spoil. ’ . Those who planted late varieties will have the best returns. Nearly all the late crops are looking well, and the spell of rain will give them just the assistance they wanted. Probably potatoes will be dear this coming winter. and consequently all should take care of their crops, however small. Finish setting out cabbage and similar plants as soon as possible. They will take hold of tho ground at once if set out while it is moist and- cool from the rain. Plant every corner there is available; . one cannot have too many green vegetables for use or sale during the whiter and spring months.

VINERY. AYlien the grapes are removed from a vine, gave it a good syringing. Put a little insecticide in the water, as this will not harm the leaves, whilst if there are any insects or lame it will destroy them” leaving the leaves free to do their work. Give as much air as possible. If the glass could be removed it would be all the better for the vines.

AY here the roots arc inside examine the border and if flic soil is dry give it a thorough soaking. Remember, where the roots are outside they get tho benefit of the autumn rains, whilst those inside only get what they are given, and they require a lot to help them to plump up the buds for next season's crop.

FLOWER GARDEN. In our last notes wo suggested taking cuttings to provide a stock of bedding plants for next season. Since then, however, we have bad a bountiful rain, which will make all bedding -plants grow very fast. - This meanssoft wood, especially where the shoots are crowded. Such being the case, zonule pelargoniums should be taken, as soon as possible. Iriscne, petunias, verbenas and other soft wooded plants ivill root freely in a cold frame during this month, and if tiie cuttings are struck early they stand the winter much better, because the plants get firm and have a lot of roots. It is therefore advisable to get the cuttings in as soon as possible. The planting of narcissi bulbs will soon claim attention; and some consideration should be given where tho different /" varieties are to be planted. ' One point to aim at is to secure a supply of blossoms for cutting over a long season. This is done by putting the early varieties in a very warm position, and some of the late varieties in as cool a quarter as can be found. There are plenty for use in mid-season, but we want a lot at the beginning of and at the end of the season.

When planting arrange hold masses of one variety—twenty to thirty bulbs in a. clump makes a nice group, and if we cut a few blossoms for the vases there are enough left to decorate this particular spot. Where there are plenty of bulbs put some in the kitchen garden for cutting. A lot of Henry Irving and Princeps, put in a. cold frame, would give flowers for cutting a month before those in the open ground. The frame should be put in a warm corner,' and the bulbs planted close to each other at once. Do not put the glass cover on until May.

Chysantbeimims in pots need very careful attention for the next few weeks. Water with care: too much is worse than too little. The plants secure much , moisture thfoug’h their leaves at night, and this helps to feed them, but if wc put too much in the soil, the roots cannot get rid of it. As a result they want- for air, and in a short time many leaves turn brown and die.

Fancy and decorative pelargoniums that were cut down last- month should be shaken out, many of their roots cut ofl r , and repotted into small pots. Use a light, rich compost, with -a liberal quantity "of sharp sand mixed with it. After repotting stanch the plants in a colcl frame, water sparingly at the root, but spray theny overhead once a day.

Give zonale pelargoniums for winter ■flowering plenty of room. If the leaves touch, move the plants so that air can circulate freely between the plants. Pinch ofF the leading shoots for the last time, and after this leave the growths and buds to develop. They will be in full blossom by flic end of April. Give manure water once a week.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. S.J. writes:—Will you kindly inform me, through your Garden Notes, the name of the grub enclosed and the best kind of spray wash to kill it. I host, kind of spray wash to kill it? I planted a pear tree five years ago, and this year for tlie first- time had about twelve or fourteen pears, every one of them rotten to the very heart. Would you recommend -grafting or to cut it down?—The name of the insect is tho “ Mantis.” often called tho walking leaf. It is quite harmless to vegetation, living chiefly on other insects. The pear is Jargonelle. This and other early pears should be picked just before they are ripe, as if left on the trees too long the fruits begin to decay at the core. This is perhaps the best of the early pears, but, of course, will not keep many days. If you prefer a good keeper, graft P. .Barry on this one, or one of the many good winter pears. “ Montreal’’ writes:—Will you kindly.

give me some advice, as I want to save my winter stock of vegetables? My ouions have beaten me, and now the leeks have got the same complaint. They are dying off from the tips, gradually working down the leaves or tops, which wither away. AVhat is the best to spray them with?—< Out off the brown parts of the leaves* then spray your leeks with a solution of’ sulphide of potassium, half an ounce of sulphide fo one gallon or water. M’Dougall’s wash, “Niquas’ or “Katakillar” will destroy the “aphides” and “thrips”on the CjaOTJ’* _____