THE GARDEN.

Lyttelton Times, Volume CXX, Issue 14977, 24 April 1909, Page 5

THE GARDEN.

- M ».- WORK- FOR THE WEEK. . . KITCHEN GARDEN. Weather conditions recently have befln favourable for all garden operations, and there can be no excuse for routine work being in arrear. AutumnBown'onions seem to have germinated well this season, and are coming on very well. Put the hoe through the soil frequently to keep it open and free *from weeds. Should a quantity of fallen leaves accumulate between the rows remove them aa scon as possible, and thus prevent worms from drawing them into the soil. Winter spinach should be thinned early to six or eight inches between the plants, and in largo quarters ten inches is none too much. The more space each plant has the larger and finer will the leaves be. Cauliflowers raised from late sowings should be ready for setting out. These plants ihould always be put in their final positions while they are small, especially varieties .that come in early. If left in the seed or nursery bed too long they are inclined to bolt or button, as premature flowering is generally termed. In planting these young subjects make the roots very firm by pressing or treading- the soil round them, then put about one inch of loose soil around each. "Turnips may be 'sown if a- late supply is required, but give rather more room than is generally allowed to summer sowings. Tomatoes may be frosted • any night now unless covered with protecting material. Where it is not possible to cover them take up the plants and hang them in a well aired shed. Nearly all the fruits that have attained a : fair size will ripen and give supplies for several weeks. Marro-ws and pumpkins that are ripe should be stored away from the weather in a light, well ventilated shed. Should there be any onions out in the open get them under cover as soon as possible. HARDY FRUITS.

The planting season will soon arrive.

One or two sharp frosts will bring the growth to a stop aud the leaves will fall; then the trees may be transplanted with safety. What varieties to plant is a question often asked, but frequently the advice given by men who have watched the merits and demerits of different varieties is totally disregarded in favour of some highly-coloured descriptions printed in nurserymen's catalogues. Tr.at there are too many varieties in cultivation is well known. Another fact that should be equally borne in mind is that local conditions *so affect the different attributes of many varieties that ono should have some knowledge of local conditions before presuming to give advice. There are several varieties that seem to give good results in most situations. Irish Peach, Alfriston, Annie Elizabeth, Ballarat Seedling, Brownlee's Russet, Claygate Pearmain, Cox's Orange Pippin, Emperor Alexander, Kentish Fillbasket, Keswick Codlin, Lane's Prince Albert, Peasegood's Sturmer Pippin and Worcester Pearmain are but a very few from the, long lists printed in various catalogues. Probably the safest method in making a selection lor any district is to find out what gives, good results, and plant the same varieties for a start, adding others as time goes on. The value of dwarfed Apple trees for small gardens cannot be over-estiraate.d now that town and suburban gardens are getting smaller and smaller. Since rating on the un-1 improved value has been adopted trees ; propagated ou tne general method take up too much space on a small section, consequently only one or two can be plantqd where three or four times the number of dwarfed specimens could be grown,' each giving large crops of good fruits and (supplying apples over a greater part of the year. The method of propagatins; dwarfed apple trees is to graft a scion of the Paradise on to a Majetin, or Northern Spy root, _ then graft, or bud, the variety that is to bear fruit on the Paradiso. This system of propagation produces dwarf trees of such alow growth that they may be planted ,seven or eight feet apart, and yet pro-' duce remarkable quantities of fine fruits. Another advantage of this

method of propagation is that the trees come into bearing much earlier than they do from the other method. As an example—a treo of Black Prince carried several fine fruits two seasons after being budded. Now, it is well-known that this variety (Black Prince) needs several years' growth after being planted in its final position before it bears anything like a fair crop.' The eamo remark also applies to Lord Wolseley. Yet, if these varieties are dwarfed by being worked on the Paradise they fruit at once. Another advantage is the ea6o with which the trees can bo kept in order. They can be pruned, sprayed, the fruits thinned and gathered without steps or a ladder. Once owners of small gardens, or those who live in a wind-swept district adopt the dwarfed system of cultivation, they will never go back to the old. Preparations for

planting should be finished as soon as possible, and ono of tho most important items is perfect drainage, eo that the water may pass away freely. . ( A little extra labour and money-'spent in securing good drainage will be well invested, aa the trees will make a more satisfactory growth and give heavier crops of tho best quality fruits. Another important point is that the holes where the trees are to be planted should never bo made deeper than the land has been worked. The reason is obvious —if the holes are dug down into the hard uncultivated subsoil there will be a small pond in. wet weather, as the water, once in tho hole, must remain there for a long time. This means (1) the roots aro standing in stagnant water, with the result that the stems and branches get covered with mess and lichen; and (2) this trapped water reduces the tem-

perature of tho soil about the roots, and by excluding air turns .it sour as well as cold, thus constituting a double check on tho natural growth of tho trees. Some may have land that has only been worked ten or twelve inches lee'p In such a caso take tho holes ut only as deep as tho land has been •orkod. If the hole is not deep enough i take the roots of each tree spread hem out. and put soil on the roots, laking a little mound at each tree. This may seem a strange method of planting, but it is far better to have tho roots in a mound: of soil above the ordinary level of tho section or field, than to put them clown into small ponds, from which tho water cannot escape. Pruning should be completed if possiblo before all tho leaves are off the trees.