THE GARDEN

Lyttelton Times, Volume CXIV, Issue 13937, 20 December 1905, Page 3

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR TrfE WEEK. '< Kitchen Garden.—Potatoes should be moulded up a little at a time; the quantity of soil that is drawn on the youngftubers-should be regulated by the depth the sets were planted. If the seed was buried rather deeply, a very little soil should be put close to the haulm, because it is a mistake to have too much soil on the young tubers; the nearer the surface these are the better their flavour. Brussels sprouts should have every attention, to give them a good start, and so secure them a long season’s growth. If they need water, give them a good soaking, then break up the surface with the hoe. Frequently these plants get just a sprinkle, which makes the surface only wet, while that under the roots is quite dry. . This treatment, does more harm than "good. It attracts the roots upwards while the moisture is there, and when the sun has dried up the little' there was, the plants flag, and are in a worse condition than they would have been if left alone. A good mulch with short manure is a good method to conserve the moisture. Runner beans that are grown without stakes should have their tops cut off, to encourage lateral growth and bud formation. Those growing 'up stakes, or a fence, should be syringed after a hot day: a little attention that will assist the early flowers to set, which they too often fail to do. ' Dwarf beans, when grown on good land, need support of some bind. Canadian Wonder, for example, will grow quite two feet high, and when the wind beats them down, the beans are covered with soil during a shower, which makes them unpleasant for use.A short stake put to each plant is about the best support,: failing this, a strand of binder twine on each side of the row will keep them up fairly well. Savoys are generally sown too early, and the crop, maturing before being required, is more or less wasted. Now is a good time to sow a small pinch of seed, and another may bo put in about the second week in January. Dwarf Green Curled is one of the best varieties to grow. Tomatoes need constant attention to secure the best results. .The surplus lateral growth should be remov-' ed twice a week, and the leading growths kept in order. The aim of the gardener should bo to conserve the forced strength of the. plant. to fruit formation. The plants are often left untouched for weeks, then a large quantity, of growth and foliage is cut away. This treatment is sheer waste. -Everything that requires to' be removed from the plants should be taken off with the thumb and finger while it is small and soft. If this be done, rip© fruit will be had weeks. earlier. Celery.—After a very hot day, damp these plants over with either a syringe or fine rose. This will freshen up the limp leaves, and assist the' plants to mate a more rapid growth, and there will bo less inclination to send up flower spikes. A dusting with fertiliser and soot will also do much good. Hardy. Fruits.—Currants, both red and white, should now be summer primed. Cut away all surplus shoots and shorten lateral growth back. This will admit .light and air to -the fruit, and assist it to ripen early. Gooseberries. —Much of the surplus wood may be taken from these bushes', especially sucker growth from' the. ground' line. Apples are . a heavy crop in most gardens, and- severe thinning- should be given, especially to young trees. Unless tUe number of fruits is reduced by hand Nature will do ft, and may not leave as even a crop as the gardener would; It alarms many people to see fruit thinned. They think they are losing a part of their crop. The fewer fruits there are on each tree the finer will he' the sample. And .why? ’ It' is ■because the greatest strain that is oh a fruit tree is to mature the envelope of each seed, therefore, the fewer seeds (or pips) that are left on each the more strength there. will 1 bo available to put pulp around those seeds . (or pipe)-—and it is the pulp we ©at. Another advantage from thinning is that a regular crop ■of fruit is gathered each year, whereas if all the fruits are left on the trees this year very few may set next. This is an important point that ©very fruit grower should note. Fruit treeis that were planted last winter should have a good mulching of fresh manure. Strawberries—Having secured the number of runners required, all others should be regularly removed. If this be done a few good fruits may be secured late in the summer from late blossoms. The quarter that is to be planted with new strawberry plants should bo prepared as scon as possible. Trench it quite two feet deep, keeping the best- soil at the top; work a liberal quantity of fat manure in with the soil, distributing ■ and mixing it well rather than burying it at the bottom; leave the surface on the rough side; and should, the soil be heavy give 'a liberal application of lime.