THE GARDEN

Lyttelton Times, Volume CV, Issue 12421, 9 February 1901, Page 9

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK. .Kitchen .Garden. —The advice on lifting Second early potatoes, in our-last issue, was well-timed, in view of, the heavy rains that have since fallen. If any ore out that are nearly ripe, they should be lifted at once. The outlook for late varieties that are planted in wet land is very bad, as the excessive rains will cause them much injury. Work during February is nob heavy. in ordinary seasons, but this year there is a big crop of weeds to destroy. This must be done, to give the .vegetables all the light and air possible. The supplies.'of vegetables during the late winter and early spring will in great part depend on, good management during the next sixweeks. Seeds to be sown must receive every 'attention to secure an- even and healthy growth, as hob winds / and scorching sun may be expected- after the late wet, cold spell. It is during these great changes that vegetables need most attention. The rows should be shaded with small boughs and the soil between constantly hoed. In planting out young broccoli, choose a dull day, and keep the plants watered until they make a good start. Celery must be moulded up as required; a' little and often is the. best method.

Hardy bruits.—Do not neglect to remove old canes of raspberries that. ha ve finished fruiting. This should he done directly the last fruit is picked, to give those canes that are to fruit next season every chance to develop and mature. Strawberries should be planted as early as possible, so that they can get thoroughly established during the autumn.' If previous advice has been followed, the plants should be well rooted and the ground thoroughly prepared for planting. If this crop is to be treated as an annual, the plants may be put closer to each other than would he the case if they were required to stand several seasons in the same bed—two feet between the rows and fifteen inches from plant to plant is ample when only one crop of fruit is to be taken. When planting, if some of the young plants are smaller than others, -put two, or even three, together, and so make one good clump. Plant firm, and give a little water until they make a good start. Flower Garden.—The dahlia season may be considered to have commenced, and a few remarks on their culture may be useful. We mil consider flowers for decorative purposes to be the object in view. One of the most difficult items is to prevent damage to the plants by high winds, especially in newly-formed gardens where there is little or no shelter. Pegging down is , the best system for a wind-swept garden. Make some strong pegs and drive these, hr the ground with a mallet, and put a shoot under each peg, then drive them a little further in the soil so, that the shoot cannot move with the wind. Treated thus, - the plants will form fine dwarf masses that will soon send up a large number of flowers. After a few weeks the growths will require thinning, to enable the proper ripening of the flowering shoots. This method ’ of cultivation might he adopted more frequently thorn it is at present, as it does away with the necessity for large stakes. Grass is making rapid growth, and should be cut twice a week and rolled. Weeds will be troublesome, both in the flower-beds and on the walks. These should bo removed, or they will make the pleasure garden look, very untidy. Leaves from some of the deciduous trees will soon begin to fall; have these removed before worms draw them into the ground, making it difficult to get them up. Greenhouse.—Stove plants in flower should have plenty of room. This is necessary at all times, but more than ever so when the plants are flowering in dull, damp weather such as was experienced during the last two weeks of January. It would prolong the flowering season if a small fire is lighted during the evening to warm the moistureladen atmosphere through the night. The early plants of gloxinias are getting past their best, and should he removed to a pit, or frame, to complete the ripening of the corymbs. ! Frequently they are turned out in an odd comer out of sight, and quite neglected in the matter of watering- Under these conditions the corymbs suffer and cannot make a vigorous growth during the following season. The glass should be shaded, with some light material to prevent the sun scorching the leaves. Calceolarias should be sown in a cold frame. Use light, sandy loam, with a little leaf-mould and sand mixed with it. Damp the seed-pan before sow--ing, and shade until it germinates. For cinerarias, to be potted-on when the small pots are filled with roots, use good soil, not over-rich, as a soil that contains a lot of manure will cause the plants to send up large leaves but few flowers. Give the plants as much air as possible, to keep them dwarf and sturdy. Pelargoniums that have been cut down, must not be allowed to remain dust-dry, but should be damped l<f slight syrihging overhead. Give cyclamens plenty of air and moisture. If they have any thrip or aphis on them dip the plants in a solution made of quassia chips, soft soap and -warm water. Use this solution about the same temperature as new milk- . Re-pot any that need a shift, using good loam, a little leaf-mould (or peat), and some old hotbed manure, and give efficient drainage to carry off all surplus water. Tuberous begonias are making the greenhouses very gay with, their lovely and gqrgeous colours. There is a danger in leaving the fallen petals on any part of the plants, especially in damp weather. If these are allowed to remain on the stem a night or two, they will cause decomposition of the stem, and it will rot off at the point where the petals lodged. It is wise to go over the plants about twice a week, and remove all the flowers that are past their best, also the seed vessels, unless it is intended to save the seed. If this is to.be done, it should be carried on with a definite object in view, that of improving the habit and quality of both flower and plant. This is very interesting work, and there is ample room for great improvement in these beautiful summer flowering plants. To transfer the pollen from the stamens of the male bloom to the style of the female bloom, requires no great skill, but it is in selecting the blooms for seed purposes that great care is necessary. ...The points in improvement should be, form and size of the flower, dwarfness and sturdiness of habit, with stiff, erect flower stems, that carry the bloom well above the foliage, and holds it erect without the aid of stakes. If these points are carefully studied, there is no reason why gardeners in Canterbury should not evolve some of the finest varieties in the world.