NORTH CANTERBURY.

Lyttelton Times, Volume XXXI, Issue 2497, 4 January 1869, Page 2

NORTH CANTERBURY.

In our late report on the crops in the southern portion of the province, a new feature, in the shape of a description of the districts over which the report extended, was introduced, and the desirability of a similar description of the Northern portion of the province, for the information of home aid colonial readers, having been pointed out to us, we have been encouraged to offer the following sketch of the principal town and agricultural districts north of the Waimakariri. U ith this object in view, our most convenient starting place will be at White’s Bridge which point is the entrance to the district we propose to speak of. It is a substantial wooden structure, built on piles, and named after its enterprising projector, Mr William White, of Christchurch. This bridge was designed and built by that gentleman some few years ago, and, notwithstanding prognostications to the contrary, has withstood floods which have either swept away or seriously damaged bridges in otlnr partsof thecountry. It is private property, and was built in consideration of the proprietor being allowed to levy certain tolls for a term of years. Formerly, the river was crossed by mean's of a ferry, which, though well managed, was a very unsatisfactory and tedious mode of crossing, and often stopped for a day or two by freshes in the river. After crossing this bridge, we find ourselves on the KAIAPOI ISLAND. This is a purely agricultural district. The land is generally low and moist, with a clay subsoil, and when in its rough state, mostly under flax and the more luxuriant native grasses. It is capable of producing capital English grass and every description of grain and root crops to perfection, and al! these are cultivated to a large extent. Large numbers of cattle are also kept. The holdings generally vary in size from 40 to 100 acres, but there are also some very extensive farms Ihe island derives its name from its being enclosed on all sides by the Waimakariri. 1 his river, at the head of the island, divides itself into what are known as its northern and southern branches. These, after spreading away from each other for many miles join (heir waters again, and thus form the hanipoi Island. The farming interest in this locality has, for the last three or four years past, suffered severely through the overflowing of the Waimakariri at the upper part of the island, by which many flue farms were lor a long period rendered useless. At first, an attempt was made to prevent these overflows by means of embankments. The success attending these was soon found to be very limited. The river now became its own engineer, and soon indicated the best means of overcoming the difficulty by commencing to widen out an overflow channel down some of the roads and drains across the island. Acting upon this hint, a small cutting was made, and other works carried out, for the purpose of leading the water along the lowest level. This was attended with success, that which at first was a small cutting a few feet wide being soon scoured out by the action of the water alone to the dimensions of a river, conducting the overflow harmlessly across the island into the southern branch of the river. Encouraged by the success of this, farming is now moving ahead again, and although for a year or two farmers will have their hands full in eradicating weeds, which these floods have always been found to spread greatly, there is little doubt but that the farms of the district will soon assume the neat and trim appearance for which they used to be noted. The next point of interest in our route is the town of KAIAI’OI.

kniapei is situated on the northern branch of the Waimakariri, which is navigable from its mouth to the town for sailing vessels and steamers above 10(1 tons burden—a distance of about 4 miles from the sea. It is distant by rood from Christchurch, twelve miles, from Lyttelton by water about 26 miles, and is the principal outlet for the produce of the northern district, especially of grain, of which, during the past year, an immense quantity has (ieen shipped, besides potatoes and other roots, also butter, cheese, bacon, hams, and every other description of agricultural produce. The shipment of wool is considerable, and also of hides, skins, &c. It enjoys a continually increasing inward trade of coal, timber, and every oiher description of merchandise necessary for the support of a large industrial population. Of course this

has called for a considerable amount of storage and wharfage accommodation, which has increased greatly during the last year or two, and _is still increasing extensively These grain stores are all wooden buildings’ covered in with shingles or corrugated iron’ and are connected with the wharves by tramways, on which, by means of small trucks, goods are easily conveyed from the steam and sailing vessels to the stores, and vice versa. Profiting by the experience gained by the disastrous flood which visited the town in February last, two large stores, built since that time, have been placed or piles h : gh above flood level, and most of the stores flooded at that time have been raised to a similar height, in order to prevent a recurrence of the damage sustained on that occasion, should a similarflood occur. The largest of these stores are situated on the river resenes a strip of rush-bed foi many years left unused, but now let by. the Borough Council in sections, at a nominal rental, conditional on their being reclaimed by filling up and placing improvements upon them of a certain value. This ho caused a considerable amount of capital to be expended beneficially in the town, and has at the same time tended greatly to improve its appearance. The town is divided by the river into two parts—the north,and the south or island side. It is so laid out that a person passing straight through, on the north road, sees very little of it, and would conclude that it is smaller than it is in reality. Peraki street is the principal street on the south side, and on this and Raven Quay most of the islanders reside. The town on the north side is laid out in three, parallel streets, intersected at intervals ■ with cross streets’ The principal business premises are situated in Charles street, which fronts the river. The two parts of the town are connected by a timber bridge, with a awing in the centre to open and admit of the passage of vessels. This bridge was partially washed away ii February last, and thb part destroyed has been replaced by a temporary structure, pending the erection of a naw bridge, for which a contract has been entered into by the Borough Council. On this bridge, a toll on vehicles and horses is imposed, passengers on foot or otherwise passing free. The public buildings of Kaiapoi are!as follows:—Borough Council offices, Court House, Police Station, Post and Telegraph Office, Bank of New Zealand, Mechanics’ Institute, Church of England, Wesleyan, and Presbyterian churches. Most jof the storekeepers do a “general”! business, hardly any confining themselves to a particular line. Almost all other trides are represented. At the northern end of the town is situated a large steam flax-dftsiing factory for the preparation of the PhArmium tenax, or native flax. This has for some time been stopped,owing to some defects in thi machinery. A brewery is situated in the fame neighbourhood. The town also boasts a steam flour mill. The management of ocal affairs is vested in a Borough Council presided over by a Mayor. Under the ausp ces of this body great improvements in the town have been effected. The principal outdoor amusements are cricketing and boating for the latter of which un- ' usual facilities ate offered, the river affording the best six-mils course in the province. One of the most creditable and useful institutions of Kaiapoi is the Mechanics’ Institute. This was originally established by public subscription, aided by in small grant from Government, and has proved itself a great and permanent benefit to the inhabitants. It contains a comfortable, well-lighted reading room, regularly supplied with the English and colonial papers, magazines, &c., also a circulating library of 1600 volumes. Attached to it is a hall capable of accommodating 2 : 0 persons where lectures are occasionally delivered for the amusement and instruction of members, their friends, and the general public. The Post-office receives a mail daily at 10.30, st the same time despatching mails further north. These maiU, with passengers, are carried in commodious, five-horse coaches as far as Kaiapoi, aqd by lighter vehicles to Rangiora, Leithfield, ( oxford, &c. The Bank of New Zealand has extensive premises on the North hoad, and is agieat convenience to both town and! district. The English Church stands on the north side, as does also the parsonage. The church is externally ugly, but comfortably furnished inside. The schools attached to it are situated on the island, and during the last year have been so largely attended as to render an increase of accommodation imperative, 'fho buildings have been doubled in size, and are now conducted on the “ separate ” system. The Wesleyan body have a place of worship similar in size to the Church of England, and a comfortable parsonage within easy distance. Thescbools, which are largely attended, are conducted in the church. The Presbyterians have a church and manse, but no school is attached. Both church and manse are neat structures, The hotels are convenient, clean, comfortable, and generally well conducted. About two and a-half miles from the town, on the banks of the Cam, a branch of the Waimakariri, is situated the Maori pah, in the midst of a large tract of land reserved for the benefit ami maintenance of the natives. The village is intersected by a road, and contains some nice little timber cottages, built by Europeans for the native owners. The other buildings are of a more primitive construction. Honi Paratene, a native of thia pah, is the representative of the Middle Island Maoris in the General Assembly of New Zealand. On the reserve stand the remains of the Maori Bush, once a forest of some extent, and the mainstay of Kaiapoi. The bush was worked by European sawyers, who purchased the standing timber from the natives. From this source, at one lime, the principal timber and firewood supply for miles round was derived, and the disastrous fire which a few years since destroyed the best of it was a blow from which Kaiapoi was a long time in recovering. The bn»h originally contained capital timber for building purposes, principally black, white, and totira pine. Divided from it by the Cam is the Church Bush, nearly all cut out. A large number of sawyers were at one time located there. Fanning is now going on in the vicinity of this bush, but tlie farmers have suffered heavily by floods. Adjoining the Maori Bush, and known as St. Stephen i, is the Maori Church, a pretty little building. Contiguous to this is the Maori school and parsonage, where their pastor and teacher, the Rev J. W. Stack resides. This school has been very favourably reported on by Government inspectors. The foundation stone of the church was laid by his Excellency Sir George Grey, Governor of New Zealand, on February 9, 1867. The plan of the church was designed by the Rev. A. G. Purchaj, of Auckland. The nave is 41 feet by 21 feet, the chancel 12 feet bv 14 feet, the tower 9 feet by 9 feet nt the base, and rises to a height of 52 feet from the ground. The total cost of the building and fittings, exclusive of lining, was £490. The style is Gothic and the building of wood, resting upon stone piles. The sum raised towards the cost was £461, which, with the exception of £2<iOgrantcd by the Government, was entirely collected by subscriptions, reflecting infinite credit on the Maoris, and speaking well for their Christian spirit. The reserve, though capital land, is not farmed to any greut extent, being principally used ns a cattle run. It has lately been fenced in by ihe Government to isolate the cattle upon it, pleuro-pneumonia having been prevalent among them for some time past.

WOODEND. The road from Kaiapoi to this place runs through sandhills for some distance, passing the Maori Bush on the left. At Woodend the Rangiora road brandies off, the main north road running through the village. It possesses an English Church and Wesleyan Chapel, both with schools attached; two hotels, two blacksmiths’ shops, two general stores, and a post-office, In the neighbourhood are two powerful water flour mills. The land in this neighbourhood is of good quality, well farmed, and bearing in most years a high average yield. A large area of root crops is always grown here, the land being admirably adapted for their production. Woodend is four miles from Kaiopoi. Following the North road—which at no point between Kaiapoi and Leithfield is above two or three miles from the sea, “ as the crow flies”—we next come to the River Ashley, at most times low and easily fordable, but after heavy rains swelling sufficiently to stop all traffic. To obviate this annoyance, which has often interrupted traffic for days together,

bridge was erected. This was partial? •wept away last February. The part the' . destroyed has lately been replaced, and th bridge lengthened. This will render a re currenoe of such a disaster very unlikely Crossing the shingle river-bed, which i nearly half a-mile in width, we follow thi formed road again till we reach SALTWATER CREEK. This place is distant nine miles fron Kaiapoi, and is a small shipping port, fron which much of the wool and grain produc • of fhe country north of it is shipped. Tht Creek is navigable for steamers and sailinf vessels of small tonnage. Saltwater Creel suffered heavily by the great floods of Feb ruary last. All the gardens and some of tin buildings were completely destroyed, and tin goods in stores much damaged. The town •hip contains large grain and wool stores Messrs Cameron have recently had thein raised above flood-level, and Messrs I’nvit 1 are constructing a new one on an eminence untouched by the flood. There is a post-office and two hotels, one on each side of the Creek which is spanned by a fine timber bridge This was partially carried away by the flood but has lately been reinstated, The schoolhouse is situated on the north side. Divint service is occasionally conducted there by ministers of various denominations, there being no regular place of worship. The Kowai Bond Board have the. management of roads •nd bridges in this, district, and their offices •re situated in thwtownship. From Saltwater Creek a pretty panoramic view of the western ranges, and the clowns at their feet, is obtained. The latter are thickly interspersed with farms and dotted with buildings. These green patches stand out in pleasant relief •gainst the russet hue of the native tussock grass, which covers the - unimproved lands in that locality. Five or six miles from haltwater Creek stands the thriving township of LEITHFIELD. This town is 15 miles from Kaiapoi, and 27 from Christchurch. It mainly depends on roadside traffic, and supplying the neighbour-ing-farms and sheep stations with their various, requisites. Leithfield adjoins the river Kowai, now an insignificant stream, though •t one period it must have been a river of •ome magnitude, judging from its high and •teep banks and great width. One object which immediately strikes the visitor’s eye. on entering the town is the windmill, standing on a lofty pile of earth, precipitous on two sides. This mill is conspicuous object for miles round. There are a church and parsonage in the town, also a school. There is a comfortable hotel, at which the Christchurch coach arrives daily at one p.m. with the mail, a down coach leaving the same place at 7 a.m. daily; also a general store and post-office. The principal trades have their representatives here, and it is possible that the township will eventuaj'ybe connected with Christchurch by railway. The •urrounding district is one of the largest agricultural districts in the province, and generally known as the MOUNT GRET DOWNS. Leaving Leithfield and crossing the Kowai, we -shortly come to the village ofAmberly, , from which another pretty view of the hills and i Kais obtained. Furtheron is Brown’s Bridge, ; whidH”is as far north as we propose taking ptrar*'Beaders on this occasion. The country ; between this village and the Hurunui river, the- boundary of the province of Canterbury, is principally sheep country, though there is excellent land north of it, not much cultivated, owing to the distance from a shipping port, and consequent cost of transit. Brown’s Bridge is simply t .'roadside hostelry, surrounded by little clusters of farms, and backed by a large extent of swampy land, skirt- . ing which and crossing a piece of gravelly ; land, we come upon the downs at a part ; known as Springfield. These downs are all pretty much of the same character; the t land is clayey and undulating, growing all ? kinds of grain well, and, generally speaking, | producing grass and roots but indifferently. I.ln wet seasons the land is not easily worked, I »nd when this is the case, some neg- | lecting to take time by the forelock put I their corn in too late, and suffer accordingly. I'.The chief fault of the land is, that it is too ? wet in winter and dries up too much in l iummer, and therefore requires a variable | season to suit it well. The land in the first does not require much expenditure I to bring it under crop. The plough can be &itrtick into most of it at once, the only prepliminary being the burning of the native tussock with which the downs generally are Most of the farms are laid out ; rectangularly and enclosed with sod walls. Very few timber fences are to be seen in ' this part of the country. Farming generally ' is conducted in the most primitive style. : The farmer ploughs, harrows, and sows his . Ked and reaps as his harvest whatever the ' fates send him, and when the land is exhausted ' -by over-cropping, he either lays it down to - grass or lets it lie fallow. But this style of ■: farming is not, we are sorry to say, confined . to any particular part of the province. There ' are however, some bright exceptions, and j their example must in time be followed by . others till good farming shall have become . the rule. Un the dewns, many of the home- ■ steads present a very picturesque appearance. To this point many of the proprietors ' have evidently had an eye in selecting their sites. At Brackenfield, adjoining the estate of Mr F. A. -Weld, is a Roman Catholic chapeL This occupies a rather striking position. The downs preserve much the same character.for the whole seventeen or eighteen . •miles intervening between Brown’s Bridge ’ and Kangiora. Between the downs and the ■ .Ashley, there is, however, a considerable [ extent of low-lying land, which bears grain, ; and is of course better adopted for grass and ; roots than the higher and dryer land in the y downs. A line for a railway is reserved ? through the principal agricultural part of the g district. Whenever it or a tramway is made, it will be a great boon to farmers, the cost of cartage at the present time bearing very upon them. Following the railway :.h track in a southerly direction, we come to » where it is intersected by the Rangiora and |;’Leithfleld road. This road runs almost with the Ashley, and leads past s Smceession of farms to the Rangiora ford ol ||that river. Beyond the ford cultivation! for some miles, and the hill slopes an galled the Ashley Downs. The genera sahharacter of these is much the same as tht ffikountGrey Downs. Proceeding across tin |||nver, which at this point is generally ford >3gftle, we arrive at •'W‘ . : rangiora. j' -- This township is very centrally situated . -;*nd has grown into importance entirely with •■ OUt Government aid. This is, doubtless Rowing to the capital position it occupies being surrounded on all sides with a larg £\and thriving agricultural district dependen i- - on it for supplies. At one time it had th f advantage of a considerable timber trade £ which doubtless assisted materially in it earlier stages of development. Rangior * bush is now almost gone, a few trees am f itumps only remaining. Rangiora is aj I- preached from Kaiapoi by two roads—th Drain road from Kaiapoi Island, and th > Rangiora and Oxford road from Woudenc > These intersect each other at right angles •; and from the two principal streets of th -town, on which the business premises am ’ private residences are situated. Here th ; Church of England have a place of worship, pretty parsonage, and girls’ and boys’ school; L The Wesleyan body hive two chapels and £ school, and several other denominations hav £ -chapels. The town is jwell off for Hotel; there being as many as five, at all of whic good accommodation can be obtained. Tber •are also six general stores, two medical pra< titioners, a brewer, three millers —all the mill working by water power—a cider manu facturer, and woolscourer, almost all otht trades and callings being carried on in th place. For the protection of the well-behavc of her Majesty's subjects a police station i provided, a lock-up being attached for th benefit of the ill-behaved. The Kaiapoi Res • dent Magistrate holds a Court herefortnightlj : alternating with Leithfield. The stores ar ; generally commodious, and well-stocke with a miscellaneous assortment of good; , Periodical auction sales have for a long tim past been established here, and the auctioneer have generally had good sales. The “fai movement” has, however, found its way hen ; and has been taken up with spirit among th t farmers. The inaugural fair will be held o

January 7, The fair ground is in the centre of the township, and is about forty acres in extent. There are four entrances—three from the Drain road, and one from the Rangidra and Oxford roads. At the side next the Drain road large permanent pens have been constructed of posts and stout sheep rails, capable of accommodating 20,000 sheep. In addition, a large number of hurdles for subdividing these, or supplying extra pens if necessary, are provided. These pens are most judiciously laid out, with gangways between them to facilitate the inspection and drafting of sheep. For cattle, there were originally on the ground two extensive yards. These, with some small pens for quiet stock, will accommodate 2000 head easily. Accommodation for 600 pigs is also provided. At the rear of the section a private road was originally laid out and fenced off; this is now reserved as a walk for entires, or a ground for horse trials. Inside, and parallel with tho fence which divides this from the paddock, is a long fence of great strength for tying horses to, the space between the fences being left as a walk where they can be conveniently inspected by intending purchasers. Against the left-hand fence from the Drain road refreshment and other booths will be erected, and the large space in the centre will be available for any other purposes that may be required. In addition to all these arrangements, a counting-house is to be erected in the centre of the ground, where a clerk will be in attendance. He will write receipts, and will be provided with cheques on the various banks, acceptance-forms, stamps, &c. '1 his, it is hoped, will be a great convenience to both buyers and sellers. From the description given above, our readers can form a tolerable idea of the spirited preparations made by the promoters of the fair, in the hope of making Rangiora what, from its central position, it ought to be—the principal cattle market of the northern part of the province.

Rangiora boasts some.very pretty private residences, many of them with capital fruit and flower gardens attached. Surrounding the township is a large extent of agricultural land of thefinest quality, level and bearing English grasses in perfection. Dairy farming is extensively carried on; cereals are only moderately cultivated. Public amusements are few; cricket does not flourish, though at one time the Rangiora Club could hold its own creditably against any other in the .province. The principal evening amusements are the periodical concerts given by Mr C. Merton’s singing classes, and an occasional lecture. It is the custom here, and-in the other northern townships, to have old English rural sports on or about New Year’s Day, Rangiora is distant eight miles from Kaiapoi, and 20 from Christchurch, with which places it enjoys direct coach communication twice, and a mail once daily, Leaving this town, we again travel towards the hills, this time in the direction of Oxford, 22 miles from Rangiora and 50 from Christchurch. The road, for six miles, leads across a level plain of light land, in some places cultivated, in others in its wild state, till, the River Gust is reached. This river is small, and generally easily forded. It is however now in course of being bridged. The Gust empties itself into the Mandeville swamp, through which it is carried by the drain from which the Drain Road to Rangiora takes its name. After crossing the river we find ourselves in a kind of bay. At a short distance to our right and left rise abruptly the north and south MOERAKI DOWNS. This district produces large quantities of cereals annually. The north downs commence at the South bank of the Ashley, and run along the foot of the hills as far as Middleton, a village situated eleven miles from Rangiora, containing a few business places to meet the requirements of farmers on the downs, and the Oxford road traffic. A church with a resident minister, and school and chapel are the only places of worship. There is already one hotel, and shortly there will be another. A general store and post office, a blacksmith’s, a mill, ropewalk, &c. The quality of the land is much similar to that on the other downs, and the yield generally very fair. In the swamp below the township, through which the Gust runs, is some land well adapted for grasses. Passing on our way, we cross a long stretch of level country, and if the day is hot, or windy and cold, an uncomfortable dreary ride it is. The road leads almost imperceptibly uphill, across a vast plain of sheep country, with no cultivations to relieve the eye on either hand. About four miles from Oxford we arrive at a formed and metalled road, and pass on the left an eminence known as Starvation Hill. After crossing a sudden rise in the ground we come in sight of the township of OXFORD. At first sight, Oxford strikes the traveller as one of the prettiest, if not the prettiest, town in the northern district. It stands upon slopes, backed by lofty hills clothed with densebush. These hills are backed again with high mountain ranges, the peaks of which are generally covered with snow. The Harewood Forest, as the Oxford bush is called, is the support and origin of this place. Most of the population are engaged in the timber trade in some way or other. The town contains two steam saw mills in constant work, and large quantities of timber are sawn by hand. The supply of rough timber as piles, split posts, and rails, shingles, &c. for a large portion of the province is derived from this source. This timber is carried to Rangiora, Kaiapoi, Leithfield, Christchurch, and the country intervening by means of drays—a slow and expensive mode. Oxford’s great desideratum is a rail or tramway, which would increase her trade to an incalculable extent, and which the vast extent of bush in its rear would maintain for years. By the time that was worked out, another support from the traffic would be found in the produce of the good land in the vicinity of the township. The public buildings of Oxford are not at all numerous. There is an English church and a Wesleyan chapel. A Baptist chapel is in course of erection, and a Congregational one talked of. It will be seen, therefore, that several religious denominations are represented here. There are two Government schools and a boarding school. A Mechanics’lnstitute and Public Library are in course of erection by the unaided exertions of the inhabitants. There are three comfortable hotels, all respectably conducted, a police station, and Post office, which receives and dispatches a mail twice weekly, by coach to Christchurch, via Kangiora and Kaiapoi. In all, Oxford contains over 100 houses, many of them occupying very picturesque situations, and with neat and trim gardens attached. Oxford has its cricket club, holds its annual sports, and has a day’s horse racing. Evening amusements, hitherto, have been scanty. In spite of many drawbacks, Oxford has progressed as much as any place in the province. With an improved mode of transit for produce, it would soon become one of the largest towns in Canterbury. There are some farms in the neighbourhood of Oxford, but the dairy is the only branch it pays them to attend to; the distance which it would be necessary to cart grain to market would swallow up all profit that may be obtained from it. EYRETON DISTRICT. The country intervening between Oxford and Eyreton is principally sheep country. The township of Eyretoii is simply a cluster of farms, the only public building being Hie school-house. The master is postmaster of the district, and receives and despatches a weekly mail. The school is used as a place of worship, and is visited periodically by a clergyman. There is, of course, u blacksmith’s shop, but there are no stores. The district takee its name from the river Eyre, a small stream al times almost dry. The land is of a light character, generally very well farmed, and bearing excellent wheat crops; root crops are not much attempted, the soil being not quite suitable. The district was formerly a portion of the Rangiora and Mandeville Road Board District, but lias lately been separated from it, and, with the Kaiapoi Island, another portion split off from the original district, will constitute a new district. It is separated from the Island by the north branch of the Waimakariri. Eyreton is about 12 miles from Kaiapoi. The road, from White’s farm to where it joins the Drain road at Flaxton, is formed and gravelled and runs through a large extent of low-lying agricultural country. The Drain road, to which the Eyreton road leads on the one band

to Rangiora and on the other to a bridge over the- know nl as the Girder bridge, a very- neat, substantial structure, which escaped destruction in the flood of last February. The Drain Road district, at one time known as the Ohoka Swamp, has been greatly improved by drainage, though not sufficiently so. The land, where it is well drained, is remarkably good, and its moisture renders it particularly favourable for grazing and fattening cattle, and for dairy purposes. A Church, of sufficient dimensions to meet the requirements of the place, is situated at Flaxton, also a school. Divine service is performed in the former on Sunday afternoons by the Incumbent of Rangiora. The road to Rangiora via the Girder Bridge is much used and takes a fair share of the traffic with the road via Woodend. It is generally considered the nearest road from Kaiapoi, and is certainly the more pleasant of the two. Taken as a whole, North Canterbury has made rapid advances in population, wealth, and general prosperity during the last few years, and that often in the face of adverse circumstances. The farmers have suffered severely in bad prices, bad seasons, and in various other ways, and cattle owners in the restrictions which prudence compelled the Government to enforce for the common weal, and which for a time quite put a stop to all trading in stock, except for local requirements. However, the disease is now brought within a small area, and is likely to be successfully confined there.