DR. HAAST'S LECTURE ON THE WEST COAST.

Lyttelton Times, Issue 1510, 14 October 1865, Page 9 (Supplement)

DR. HAAST'S LECTURE ON THE WEST COAST.

The following is a full report of the lecture delivered by Or. Haast, on Monday, Sept. 25, at the Mechanics' Institute

Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen,-—ln coming beforeyou to-day to gi veyou an account of the now so much spoken-of West Coast, it is not my intention to trouble you much with the geological history, nor to speak of the goldfields themselves from a geological point of view, but to give you my general impressions of the country over which I travelled, and a description of the physical features, no that you may be able to have before your mind's eye that sublime landscape which must strike every traveller with admiration and awe. The combination of sea and plains ; the latter covered with dense forest vegetation, intersected by numerous rivers, with huge snow-clad mountains rising above them, is such an interesting feature, that nowhere on the globe more striking contrasts will be found.

I shall not enter into geological details, because those who are fond of the science of geology may find sufficient material in my official reports. Of course I shall incidentally allude to important natural phenomena, without tiring you with hard or lor.g names ; and if I should fail to interest you, I hope you will forgive me, as I have tried to do my best for such a purpose.

You have heard and read so much about these poldfields. which are at present worked, that I shall speak only of that part of the West Coast which is less known, namely, the country south of the Hokitika, which I followed down as far as the Waian, ascending that river to its sources. Mr. George Turner, at my request, has been kind enough to paint a large panoramic view from my small watercolour sketch, taken near the mouth of the Hokitika, which will give you a correct idea of the magnificence and variety of the splendid scenery before you when you are standing on that ill-fated spit, and look around you. Between the distant hill to the left of the picture and the low forest, the river Teremakau falls into the sea, whilst the low terraced land which begins here and runs behind the township to the river Hokitika, rises 300 to 400 feet above the sea level, and consists of rich gold drift; but also some of the principal diggings are situated amongst the low wooded hills which rise above the bush.

You have read so much about the town of Hokitika, that I shall not enter into a description of it, but the whole gives you a favourable impression ; the many vessels near the town and the life on the river; boats coming and going, mostly occupied with provisioning the diggings higher up the river.

When I made this sketch it was low water, so that the large shingle flat on the southern side of the river was exposed; but when there is high water, or a fresh in the river, the whole bed is nearly covered, and presents a statelv sheet of water.

As "you observe on the southern side of the river, the same low country runs back for a considerable distance, till we reach the Totara, when the hills reach to the sea, the whole being simply a recent marine accumul<u : on, occasioned by the currents, which, travellk'?* northwards, have thrown a bank across th\ •• shallow bay, and forming by this process shallow lakes in succession. The whole country is covered by luxuriant vegetation— a dense undergrowth over which numberless pines and other forest trees show their well formed tops.

This panorama was sketched by me on the first of July, after heavy snowfalls had taken place in the higher regions, so that all the mountains above 4000 feet were covered with a uniform white sheet. In fact, the views, with the exception of the more southerly part of the central Alps, which you observe at the extreme right of the picture, are only the summits of the out-running spurs, and may well be compared with the mountain ranges bounding the Canterbury plains to the west, as for instance Mount Torlesse and Mount Hutt. Behind these ranges, 5000 to 7000 feet high, the central chain, where all the principal sources of the West Coast rivers lie, is concealed, although we can point out* easily the valleys in which they run towards the coast. And I may here observe, that more towards south, the great character of the Southern Alps is more clearly exhibited as they rise there, with their stupendous masses straight from the low wooded terraces, without being concealed by lower mountains in front of them, so that the wanderer in those regions can at one glance see them from base to summit in all their majesty. I think that it will give you a better insight into the character and position of the different passes which lead from this side of the central chain to the other side, if I offer you some remarks about the different mountain ranges which you see in this panorama. , The first isolated range to the left is the Hohonu range, which lies on the northern banks of the Teremakau, and on the western foot of which the Greenstone Creek goldfields are situated. Between it the next higher range to the right, but partially concealed by the low tertiary coast range of clay marls, and of an altitude of about 800 feet, you will observe an opening. It is here where the so-called paddock is situated, the only locality where there is sufficient feed for cattle and horses between the. mouth of the Teremakau and the Hurunui saddle. This opening leads from the Teremakau to Lake Brunner, and was the former bed of that river before it had cut its passage through the low granite and metamorphicranges lying across its course more towards the west. The high rugged peaks to the right hand ride of this opening are the ranges on the north side of the Teremakau, running towards Harper's Pass, their summit reaching an altitude of about 7000 feet. Between them and the next high range we observe the opening o the Teremakau valley, at present the main road to this part of the province. # Here the valley of the Arahura is situated, whilst the wooded mountains, having sucn peculiarly rounded forms, lie on both sides o Lake Kanieri, the outlet of which falls into the Hokitika. These mountains are 3000 w 4000 feet high. At this spot the fcwie* river joins the Hokitika, and here are diggings, and the township of the former B&me. Round the southern base of these moun-, tains the Kokatahi flows, one of the principal branches of the Hokitika, and it w here where Browning's Pass is "boated, whilst round this spur the main river, by which the lamented Whitcombe travelled, enters tne West Coast plains. . h t The Totara and Mikonui valleys enter that plain, where here the valleys are B° '^ fined. The wooded mountains whichatretcft at the left side of the highest alpine summits to the sea, are situated between _ and Wangan ui. They consist principally otme slate, often very rotten, and of g™""® B ™ Q ous character. They are about 2000 °5 feet high, wooded to the summit, and form a verv interesting feature in the la n^P£ Abovethem rise, conspicuously, thei highest summits of the Southern Beau mont, Mount de la Beche, Mount Hndingat Mount Co.,k. Mount bloto d ßtt»ing relumed from m ™ £ the Hokitika. I prepared Mao ds down th * coaß t> 1 ' wiving ascertained that, and one I.tiropean. Having ainns could as far as the Wangfiriui river, p

easily be obtained, we took only tents, blanfcets, powder and shot, and my instruments with us. The road leads, for the first five miles, along a fine sandy beach, where, two miles from Hokitika, the wrecks of the schooner Glasgow and another small cutter were being broken up. Another mile further and the steamer Waipara was lying on the beach. After six miles we left the sea beach, and, crossing the Dunes we travelled along a lagoon, which stretches from here without interruption to the Totara river. Its tra'nquil water, in which the beautiful forest vegetation reflected its rich foliage, formed a pleasing contrast to the heavy surf breaking incessantly on the sandy shores. At the mouth of the Totara we found two stores, of which one was kept by a ferryman. Already here, I would observe, what great changes are continually taking place in the position of the mouth of the rivers south of the Hokitika. The Totara, which, when surveyed only two years ago, had a straight entrance, runs now nearly two miles along the coast towards north before it falls into the •ea; and it was then so deep at its mouth and along that channel parallel to the sea coast, that even on horseback it was difficult to cross. We therefore availed ourselves of the boat to reach the other bank, and continued our road to the Mikonui, the beach continuing to be of the same low, sandy character. The Mikonui is easily crossed on foot in three branches, reaching only to the knees when it is low, as it is generally the case in winter ; but with the least fresh it is a matter of great difficulty, and can only be accomplished with a good horse. On the northern side of this river a store was established, whence many parties working in its branches obtain their provisions. On the southerri side of the Mikonui, the features of the country soon change, and instead of a low, sandy beach, Boldhead appeared before us, which was reached after a walk of three miles. This interesting bluff, the first one of a great many succeeding each other towards south, rises about 150 feet above the sea-level, and forms very often an almost vertical wall, against which, at high-water, the waves of the sea break furiously, whilst, at low water, it is possible to travel along it, even on horseback, on the boulders of which the littoral zone is here composed, or on small sandy beaches between them.

This and all similar headlands, sixty miles south, were formed by the retreat of former huge glaciers, which, in the era immediately preceding the present one, reached hers the sea. When retreating, they heaped up in their former channel the debris which had, in the alpine ranges, fallen upon them, consisting of angular blocks, often of enormous dimensions, and silt. If anything will give to a geologist an insight into the power which glaciers have of destroying gigantic mountains, and of carrying their debris away into lower regions, a journey to that part of the West Coast will easily effect this object. At the same time the mineralogical character of the rocks themselves, of which these large cliffs are partly composed, shows clearly that by far the greater part has been derived from the very summits of the central chain—they being identical with those composing the moraines of the large glaciers on the eastern sides, without any sign of plutonic or typical metamorphic rocks amongst them, •which appear only at the western base of the Southern Alps. And that the sea had already destroyed a great deal of these bluffs is well exhibited by the enormous blocks which, often far from the shore, were lying in the surf; whilst others are ready to tumble from the loose matter in which they lie imbedded, and of which these cliffs are mostly composed One of theße erratic blocks, consisting of folded clay slates, with innumerable quartz layers between the folds, is about thirty to forty feet in diameter, covered on its summit with a rich vegetation, and may justly be compared to the celebrated Pierre bot, in the Jura.

When starting from Hokitika I was not able to ascertain exactly, if it were possible to take horses down the coast with me, as the bluffs were described as being impassable for them; but during the.first days of my journey, I heard already, from some returning diggers, that, at least as far as the Wanganui river, horses had been taken.

It was with wonder and delight that.l I passed along this bluff, about three miles long, where the structure of morainic accumulation could be so easily studied, and we arrived, the evening of the sth of June near i the banks o£ the Waitaka, which, like the other rivers more towards south, has excavated its bed in these ancient moraines. Also here a store has been already established, and a ferryman had built a punt, waiting for a rush towards south, which was confidently expected by them to set in soon. From the storekeeper I heard that he had only just returned from lake Okarita, 32 miles south of, the Waitaka, where, on the banks of that lagoon, fine pasture is to be obtained, and he added that ther« was good travelling ground, with the exception of some of the headlands, which were exceedingly dangerous to cross with horses; sol made at once arrangements with him to accompany me with two packhorses, thus being enabled to accomplish in far shorter time the journey I had in view than I had anticipated. But it was the Bth of June before I could •tart again, having been detained, first, by continuous rain, and afterwards by a heavy fresh in the river, which prevented the storekeeper from getting the horses from the banks of tberiyeramile above his store,where good grassed land, generally so very scarce at the West Coast, was to be found. Crossing the Waitaka, our road lay for about five miles along a sandy beach, after which wearnved at another low headland, consisting of latere! moraines on both sides, with alluvualbedsin the centre. This shingle wall, about 50 feet high and nearly perpendicular, was mostly covered with a luxuriant growth of pendulous ferns of different genera and some marine everlastings, still m flower, eave to it a most pleasing aspect, whilst on its summit appeared a fine forest grow™* consisting of white pine and nmu. -ine whole was enlivened by many small waterfalls, which every few hundred yards, and often still nearer, dashed down from tne summit, the heavy rains of the last few days having supplied them with a larger body of water than they usually possess. They were for that reason so numerous, that in one locality I counted 15 close together. Towards nkbt we camped near a small creek, and, as unfortunately the tides were very disadvantageous for travelling, high water being towards the middle of the day, we made use of the magnificent moonlight night, starting ! before four o'clock in the morning, to round the next headland before reaching the Wantftnui river. Even then we had started too fate as we soon became aware. For about i mil** we were able to travel on sandy two miles we were aui o{ gmaller rr ta b a »t b ron aep t"r, s? "k ™ companion hid returned, the surf Z 7 a washed " great deal of sand away which had wasnea » b hp t ween the interstices of had been ae P° it was not without some the hwhat we arrived, towards daylight, at trouble that _ storekeeper was also not .he yf»»^«' nd A JSil.hed himself in missing here, and from the rema ins of a a wooden hut, bu & goo(J flre •°r^ e r^ h t several diggers were lying, who m the hut several ws f ro ni a trip "fA"Bruce to Cw, Ba^

the highest parts of the Southern Alps are here still hidden by moraine beds, and in the foreground of which a very interesting sugar-loaf-like headland, on the southern side of the river, at its mouth, is most conspicuous. Such an occurrence shows clearly to what an enormous extent the glacier accumulations have already been destroyed by the action of the present rivers and the encroaching sea.

We had already, during our ramble round the rocks, at the break of day, when rain was falling, and a cold wind blowing, fallen in with another party of diggers, returning from an unsuccessful prospecting tour. One of them came up to me, and said, with a plaintive voice, " Oh, Doctor !• If you felt like me, you would wish yourself at Avonside, where also my wife is living. It is all very nice to go gold digging when you get plenty ; but without getting any,, it is a very hard job." I answered him with Jacob Faithful's saying, " Better luck next timeand we both continued our road. Owing to the unfavourable tides, we had again to stay till the afternoon at the Wanganui before we could continue our journey, as we had to cross another bluff before reaching the Poerua river. We also crossed the Wanganui in. a : boat, and were joined by a squatter, who had some horses on the grassy shores of Lake Poerua. This expression (squatter) will astonish you, as being used on the western side of the central ranges; but it is nevertheless correct. As you are aware, no grass land exists in the neighbourhood of Hokitika; therefore enterprising persons went south in search of it, aud found some—first on the banks of the Waitaka, then near the Poerua river, whilst still greater quantities were discovered on the banks of Lake Poerua. Owing to the frightful state of the roads on which the poor pack-horses on the goldfields have to travel, it is natural that many soon break down, and, as horsefeed is so very expensive in Hokitika, the owners of such poor animals are very anxious to get for them a locality where they can recruit their strength. Now these few grass patches afford that opportunity, and the so - called squatters undertake, for a payment of half-a-crown or five shillings a-week per horse, not only to bring the horses to those few localities, which they,had found, but also to look after them during their stay. It is natural that many horses were not able to reach the grass oases, and died on the road, and some of them were still wretched when I passed ; but a great number of them, principally at the Poerua and Okarita lagoon were already in splendid condition, and again fit for work. Thus necessity creates many a trade, and occasions the exploration of a hitherto unknown wilderness. The bluff between the two rivers is not at all difficult to pass, as a good sandy beach, from which only at intervals large erratic blocks rise, stretches to the Poerua river ; and only the last piece, leading for a short distance along that river, near its mouth, consists of waterworn flattened boulders, offering a very, bad footing to a horse. The river is easily to be crossed on foot, reaching scarcely to the hips. An extensive view upon Mount Cook, and the other stately ice-clad summits near it, is only obtainable when we round the next bluff, which separates the bed of the last-mentioned river from Lake Poerua, a lagoon of a length of three miles, surrounded on three sides by glacier accumulations, whilst a low sandbank, thrown up by the Pacifiic Ocean, forms its boundary to the West. Its northern arm, on which we camped, is nearly dry at low tide, and contains then drinkable fresh water. Great quantities of waterfowl are living here, giving animation- to the quiet foreground, over which the giants of the Southern Alps show their magnificent forms in all their grave splendour. Round the lagoon itself, which gradually becomes silted up, a rich vegetation has sprung up, consisting, near the shore, of fine grass. It was really a treat to see the poor horses which, for the last three days, had been on short commons, enjoy a run and have a feed of succulent grass ad libitum. Here, again, we met a party of Italians and Greeks who were returning from the South, having prospected several rivers near Moun ; and although they were able to trace almost everywhere the existence of gold, they could not find ground sufficiently rich enough to recompense them for bringing provisions so far.

Arriving at the outlet of the Poerua, we found that the mokihi, or craft, made of flaxsticks put together by a large party of diggers, was on the other side, and as we thought it impossible to cross on horseback without swimming, one of my Maoris swam across, to bring the mokihi over, whilst we occupied ourselves to make another flax-rope, so as to be able to direct it from both sides. It was just high-water when Tipene brought the clumsy concern over; but before we had made otir preparations, the tide was running out so fast that one of the flax-ropes broke repeatedly when it came in mid-channel, and we had the greatest difficulty in bringing every thing over. In fact, once the mokihi was close to the surf, and the man whom we pulled across made himself ready for a swim, but at last we landed him safely. As we heard afterwards, another poor fellow was here drowned shortly before, his mokihi having been taken down by the current into the surf. We camped the same night on the southern side of the lagoon, in an old Maori whare, and started before daybreak to pass the most dreaded portion of the coast, Abut Head, which, when my companion had passed before, owing to favourable circumstances, was, with the exception of the southern end, or Abut Head proper, mostly sanded up. It seems that without being able to account for it, one heavy gale very often brings such an amount of sand with it, that nearly all the rocks between high and low water mark are covered with it. During one or several gales it remains thus, till at last another washes it all out again. Thus it happens that nearly after every heavy gale great changes are taking place, and that one cannot count with certainty on bringing the horses round without very great trouble. For the first mile or so we had very fair travelling ground, but became soon aware that we had started too late, as the tide began to rise, covering the lower purt where mostly small boulders and sand occurred, and we were obliged to take a higher line, although, from the nature of the huge blocks we were often obliged to round them in waiting for the retreat of the waves, and then rushing through the water. So we toiled on, now and then caught by a huge wave; the feet of the horses slipped between the boulders, and were often only extricated with the loss of the shoe ; and although the poor animals were bleeding and exhausted, we could not lose a moment, as the tide was rising. So we unpacked them with all haste, and brought them near the high-water line, where on examining the ground, I had discovered a better track .made by a party of diggers "preceding us with horses. Either by filling up the interstices between the large boulders or cutting through smaller cliffs of silt, they had made it possible to come round the last point before reaching the Whataroa river. It is here that Abut Head is situated, which rises almost perpendicularly several hundred feet from the sea. For a great distance enormous blocks of rock lie scattered in the surf, over which the waves dash with the utmost violence. Thus I had again an opportunity to observe that the digger, when once bent upon exploring a country, will not be beaten by any obstacle in his way, and being often made an engineer by necessity, he will find at last his way to the proposed goal without flinching from his self-imposed task. Having at last brought the horses safely round the point, we returned to fetch their loads, and as the coming high water would not allow us

to cross the Whataroa, which, immediately south of Abut Head, reaches the sea, we had to wait nearly till evening in a cold southwester, accompanied by occasional showers. At last, at four o'clopk, the river had fallen sufficiently to allow u to cross, which had to be done in two branches ; and, although the water, owing to the cjjld weather, was exceedingly low, it reached in the first branch nearly to the armpits; whist the second branch, being the largest, wainot, so high, owing to its wide expanse. On! the southern side we had to cross a belt of| forest, through which parties passing before ns had cut a track, and it was already dark when we camped in an abandoned Maori pat, where the dense vegetation afforded us welcome shelter against the heavy south-westir which continued to blow during the first pijrt of the night. A glorious mornink succeeded the bad weather; not a cloud was visible on the azure vault of heavai; and after having crossed the Waitaki, a arge river joining the Whateroa near its mourn, which, owing to its soft was troublesome to horses and men, the latter having to carry the loads over in j order not to risk' the animals in the quicksands, we arrived at tlje Maori pah, lying on a small sand-spit. I use the habitual expres- i sion Maori pah, but a description of this settlement would give a very poor idea of such a Maori village, consisting as it does of three miserable low huts, in which a very old couple, and the widow, of the late chief' Taitahi, with her children, are living. Owing to the many diggers who |iave here the greatest portion of their staple food— potatoes—was already gone, of which, of course, the Maori diggers got the lion's they will have to suffer a great deal of privation before they can expe.:t a new crop. Thus a lamentable state of things was very visible principally among the children, who were covered with sores and ulcers living, as they" did, from any thing they could obtain, and, greedily sucking the fat of the woodhens they were able to catch. And thus what had given to the active population of the West Coast a golden harvest, had made these poor people still more wretched than they had been formerly. About a mile south of the Maori huts, and two miles from the mouth of the Whataroa, another headland had to be passed, but owing to the circumstance that high water was still towards noon, we were compelled to remain here the greater part of the day before we could continue our journey. But as the weather was really glorious—no cloud in the deep blue sky—l had plenty of work to do in sketching the magnificent scenery before me, and taking the necessary bearings of a great many of the principal peaks and valleys of that part of the Southern Alps. The view towards the sources of the Whataroa was exquisitely grand; but I shall not give, you a description of it at present till I describe to you the view from Lake Okarito, which, for diversity of scenery and greatness, cannot be surpassed by aDy other landscape of the globe. At three o'clock we could start, and rounding two smaller headlands, which were the former terminal moraines of the Waitaki river, we stood at last before that glorious panorama. The contrast between the everrestless sea—the gigantic waves coming and going without intermission—and the quiet watershed of Lake Okarita, with its numerous islands, surrounded by luxuriant forest, was moss .-striking. Above the forest plains rose low'"hillocks, also clothed with the same intensely green West Cqast vegetation, over which the Southern Alps Appeared a mass of snow, ice, rock, and forest. As far as the eye could reach, mountain appeared behind mountain, all clad in their white garments, with which they are covered during the whole year almost entirely, becoming apparently lower until they appeared only as small points over the sea horizon—half cloud, half ghost, as a modern philosopher has said so well. But what struck me more than anything was the low position reached by- an enormous glacier, descending north of Mount Cook from the ranges, appearing between the wooded hillocks at the foot of the Alps, and of which I shall offer you a description in the course of this lecture.

The sun being near his setting, every moment new changes were effected ; the shades grew longer and darker, and whilst already the lower portion lay in a deep shade, the summits were still shining with an intense rosy hue. Turning towards the sea, the same contrast of colours was exhibited, the sea being deep blue, whilst the sky was of such a deep crimson and orange colour, that if we could see it faithfully rendered by an artist, we should consider it highly exaggerated.

But the beauty of the magnificent scene did not fade away even after the large orb of the sun had disappeared, because, as the night advanced, the full moon threw her soft bilver light over the whole picture, and lake and sea, forest and snowy giants still were visible, but assuming, apparently, other' dimensions, shapes, and colours. It was late at night before I could leave this glorious view, and my heart swelled with such a pure delight as only the contemplation of nature can offer to her admirers.

I shall now proceed to offer you a few observations on the view of that lake. The northern banks of theOkarita lake are formed by moraines belonging to the Waitaki system, and the southern ones by still larger ones, belonging to the Waiau, where the contrast of rich forest vegetation, rocky precipices, formed of huge blocks, and the deep green and still water is very striking. Over the low-terraced hillocks appear the high snowy ranges, where the sources of the river Whataroa are situated. You see there the deep valley of that river pierce the ranges far more than any other river in this region, its main sources coming from Mount Tyndall, which is not visible from here. Crossing these ranges, you would drop upon the great Godley glacier, by which you would reach lake Tekapo and the Mackenzie country. The next deep valley is that of the West Coast Waitaki, a river of smaller dimensions than the Whataroa. The lower snowy ranges in the foreground conceal the higher peaks lying behind. The next high summit is Mount Eli de Beaumount, of which,* in my various reports, I had so often an opportunity to speak, as being one of the central points of our Southern Alps. It is in the vast snowfields of its south-eastern slopes that the great Tasman glacier takes its origin, which runs along the eastern side of the whole high chain as far south as Mount Cook, receiving from both sides tributaries to swell that tremendous trunk glacier. To give you an idea of the extent of country drained by that river, which takes its rise from this glacier, and which forms lake Pukaki, I may state that the rivers coming along the West Coast from the same chains are situated on a coast line of thirty-six miles, namely, from the West Coast, Waitaki north, to the KaroThe high mountain in the centre of this view is not Mount Cook but Mount Haidinger, whilst only the sharp point to the right above it belongs to that highest mountain of New Zealand I will still draw your attention to the tremendous glaciers which reach the West Coast plains between the low-wooded hills. It is there where the principal sources of the Waiau are situated. The.low hills in front consist mostly of morainic accumulations, thrown down by the ancient glaciers when'they retreated from the coast to take their present smaller dimensions, although here and there smaller hillocks, consisting of granites and m'etaniorphic rocks, show their ice worn forms above them. South of Mount Cook the Alps begin to lose already in altitude, although, from. the greater distance, it is obvious that they will appear less and less elevated, till they disappear entirely below the horizon. The last low land which you can see from here is Taitahi point, where Bruce Bay is situated,

and which, as the crow flies, is distant eightyeight miles from Hokitika. The high mountains above it are Mount Hooker, the Grey, and other ranges lying at the east of Open aud Jackson's Bay.

After a beautiful calm night, we found the wliole country covered by hoar-frost, the minimum thermometer being 29 ° 20, or nearly 3 ° below freezing point; but a cloudless sunny day followed, and I never got tired of admiring the wonderful landscape before me, the solitude of which appeared less severe by observing numerous horses feeding peacefully among the high grass in the foreground, a strange sight at the West Coast, where the uniform forest vegetation is totally unfit to preserve the life of that useful animal. The presence of so many horses indicated that a great number of diggers had here their headquarters, from whence they prospected the country in the neighbourhood. The traces of the night's frost soon disappeared before the powerful sun, and we followed for more than three miles a well-beaten track along the banks of the lake, through high flax and small groves, consisting of coprosma, veronica, and dwarf totara bushes, intersected with grassy flats. Owing to the variety of means of human subsistence presented on the one hand by the sea, on the'other by the lake and the open ground around it, it is easily understood that such a favourable locality would not escape the attention of the native inhabitants ®f this island; anil this well-beaten track, the numerous remains of what as (provision stores), pallisadings round graves and huts, show that formerly a much larger population than that at present existing peopled these interesting shores. The sleek appearance of the horses and their merry gambols, when compared with their usual miserable state at the coast, testified that the grass growing here alongside the lake was both abundant and nutritious.

About a mile from the outlet of the Okarita lake, which, like that of Poerua, is situated at its southern extremity, we fell in with an encampment, consisting of several tents and provision stores, mostly inhabited by one manonly, representing a prospecting party, who had left one of their mates behind to look after the provisions and horses during their absence. Being told that the headlands between the Okarita and the Waiau were impassable for horses, we left ours and part of our provisions behind, and proceeded at once to the outlet of the lake, which is so broad and deep, that it can only be crossed with a mokilii. Some of the diggers had hollowed out from a drift tree a kind of canoe, about eight feet long, the stern, originally open,being closed by some sods, through which the water found its way during the passage. In this frail bark, strengthened by a bundle of flax-sticks on both sides, which the diggers kindly lent us, we crossed two at a time with a strong current, as the tide was setting in, and camped that evening on the southern side, under the shelter of a manuka grove, and in a commodious whare, built a few weeks before by a large party of natives who had gone south prospecting.

The next morning, the 14th of June, we continued on foot with heavy loads, so as to be prepared for a spell of bad weather, which might possibly overtake us when near the headwaters of the Waiau. Lake Okarita is bounded on its southern side also by a headland, formed by a lateral moraine, without doubt belonging to the Waiau system, and exhibiting by its rough anticlinal arrangement, that it formed the northern lateral moraine of that large pleistocene glacier. This accumulation, first only 40 feet high, rises the more we advance towards the south, to at least 250 feet, indicating more than anything else the enormous denudation which must have taken place before the present glaciers would form the channels they now occupy. And if we consider that the accumulations come mostly all from the highest portion of the central chain, the lower portion having been generally ground down by the ice or become removed by the rivers issuing from below these huge glaciers, the philosopher is filled with admiration and wonder, wiien the great truth once more is revealed to him, that Nature, to obtain great results, uses gigantic but simple means, of which we have scarcely any true conception. Between the Okarita lake and the Waiau comparatively little water reaches the sea, but which may easily be accounted for by assuming that a large spur runs in a south-westerly direction, from Mount Elie de Beaumont to the valley of the Waiau, s) that only the water collecting on the western side of that spur could form small channels through those moraines.

There are two smaller rivers which we had to pass before we reached the Waiau, both being called the Totara, but generally easily crossable if they flow at all, their mouths being often closed by shifting sands of the sea shore, behind which they then form lagoons, but when breaking through, often for a few days present an impassable barrier to the traveller. When we passed the first time the northern Totara was running, but could easily be crossed, whilst the southern one was closed; and on our return, owing to the continuance of the fair weather and light south-west winds, we found them both closed, so that we could travel dry footed for eight miles along that well irrigated coast. At eleven o'clock we arrived at the mouth of the Waiau, where two diggers, who had been our travelling companions, left us ; they were bound for a creek between the Waiau and Waikukupa, where some payable finds, according to rumour, had just been made by some prospecting party.

The view from the mouth of that river is most magnificent, as the valley, being straight and nearly two miles broad, allows us to gaze at the Southern Alps from foot to summit, having in the foreground the enormous ice masses of the Francis Joseph glacier appearing between the rich forest vegetation. The Waiau is a true shingle river, flowing in several branches through its wide valley, the semi-opaque bluish colour of its waters at once revealing its glacier origin. Owing to the cold nights it was very low, so that we could easily cross, it being scarcely above our knees when running in several branches. Numerous deep channels, now empty, and the enormous amount of drift-wood lying every where upon the shingle flats and spits, were indications enough to show that, with the least fresh, it would be impassable for travellers on foot; and I can easily understand that, during spring and summer, it is almost impossible to wade through it. Even in this season, the least rain makes it very dangerous to cross. A week before our arrival, when there had been a fresh in the river, a prospector, a capital swimmer, was washed from his feet, and drowned,before his mates could offer him any assistance. The river having a general tendency, at present, to keep principally on the northern side of its broad bed, we crossed it at once in three branches, and kept on the southern, travelling partly in dry channels, over grass-fiats, or sometimes, where a branch of the river sets close against banks covered with forest vegetation, through dense bush. This forest consisted either of pines intermingled with arborescent ferns, the 1 whole interlaced by climbing plants, or—and what was still worst—of shrubs, the branches of which were not only grown to dense masses and towards the ground, but were still more closely united by bushlawyers (Rubvs australis) and supple-jacks ( Ripogonum parvi Jlorum). It was a herculean task to pass through bush of the last description, often only a few hundred yards long ; and we generally did not reach the river bed without having left part of our garments or skin in our battle with that pleasant West Coast vegetation. After two miles the bed enlarged still more,

the river flowing in two principal branches on each side it, with a large wooded island in the centre. Towards evening we camped about seven miles from the coast, near a grove of pine trees and arborescent ferns. During our journey up the river we had occasion to observe what a great abundance of animal life is there existing; there were lirge numbers of woodhens. and my Maori companions soon made a sad havoc amongst them. Next morning the same fine weather favoured us, and after four miles we arrived at the foot of the Southern Alps, which rose here from the plains in all their majestic splendour. Here the main liver turned towards south, and an important branch joins it from the south-east, coming also from a large glacier, which I called after Professor Agassiz, the illustrious naturalist. The valley of the main river narrows here considerably, and rocky points are washed by its water on the right side, consisting of a magnificent mica slate full of garnets; but even here, close to the glacier, the fall of the river is inconsiderable, so that it easily could be crossed on foot. The vegetation at the same time continued to have the same lowland character. Turning a rocky point, we had at once the white unsullied face of the ice before us, broken up in a thousand turrets, needles and other fantastic forms, the terminal face of the glacier being still hidden by a grove of pines, ratas, beeches and arborescent, ferns in the foreground, which gave to the whole picture a still stranger appearance.

About three-quarters of a mile from the glacier we camped, and, after a hasty meal, started for its examination. The same vegetation still continued, and it was in vain that I looked for any alpine, or even sub-alpine plants. From both sides numerous watercourses come down, mostly forming nice falls over large bloeks of rocks. Before we reached the glacier, the valley expanded again, the left side having hitherto been formed by an ancient moraine, more than a hundred feet high, the river flowing in two channels, with a wooded island, from which huge blocks rose between ; but, owing to the very low state of the river, the southern channel was nearly dry, and only received, on that side, the contents of numerous small waterfalls from the outrunning spurs of the main chain. Before we readied the glacier itself we had to cross a moraine, mostly consisting of small detritus, denoting, by its mineralogical character, that it came from the very summit of the snowy giants before us. My whole party had never seen a glacier, and some of the Maoris had never seen ice ; thus, the nearer we came, the greater was their curiosity, and whilst I stopped a few hundred yards from the terminal face to take some bearing.", the whole range, owing to the clear sky being well visible, they all ran on, and I saw them soon ascend the ice, which, with the exception of a few small pieces of debris*in the centre, was perfectly spotless, and presented a most magnificent sight. Having finished my work, I followed them, and stood soon under the glacial cave at the southern extremity, forming an azure roof of indescribable beauty, and which one of my European companions could only compare to the magnificent scenery of some London Christmas pantomime. The glacier not only fills the valley, the sides of which are formed of perpendicular walls of magnificent mica schist, but even from the ice, large hillocks rise, consisting of the same rock on which, better than anywhere I had ever observed, the planing and furrowing action of the ice can easily be studied. And no one will afterwards feel surprised at the facility with which that wonderful and powerful plough of nature will furrow deep valleys and model roches montonn6es.

On both sides of that glacier, for a good distance, the mountains are covered with a luxuriant vegetation, amongst which beautiful rata trees, and in one locality fuchsia bushes, now without leaves, covering a large extent of the mountain side, were most conspicuous. It was in vain that even here, close to the glacier, where the large ice masses must, in some degree, refrigerate the surrounding atmosphere, I looked for characteristic alpine plants. There were neither spear grasses nor celmesias, those gigantic New Zealand daisies, which are such an ornament to our higher vegetation, nor even any of the sub-alpine bushes and shrubs. You may easily imagine how extremely strikingisthecontrast between the stupendous ice masses, inclosed by that tremendous mountain chain and tbe arborescent ferns, pines and other luxuriant vegetation which are in general only found in more genial parts of the coast. I shall not give you, here, a description of those mountains, particularly as I have done so, I fear, too often already, but add some observations on the remarkable occurrence of a glacier in such a low position, and on the causes to which we may attribute it.

From the first explorer who ever set his foot on the West Coast of this province, to the discovery of the goldfields, the difference of rainfall has always been a topic of great interest. It is obvious that the quantity of rain falling will seem still larger when you are camped in the forest; so that, generally, before it is thoroughly dried after a rainfall, a new shower brings forth the usual state of things, so that the explorer is generally wetted through as soon as he begins to move. Unfortunately, we have not sufficient data to go upon to determine, with accuracy, the difference, in inches, of the rainfall between the two coasts, although the valuable observations of Dr. Hector, in 1863, for seven months, from the first of June to end of December, show that there fell, in the south-western part of this island, 87 inches, whilst in Dunedin it was only 23J, which proves that the quantity of rain was more than three times , and a-half as great at the West Coast as at the East Coast. . Concerning the difference between Christchurch and Hokitika, we have only reliable data since the 29th of April of this year, when Mr. John Rochfort set up a rain-gauge at our western metropolis. From the 29th of April to the 3rd of July, inclusive, 67 days, 36J inches of rain fell in Hokitika, whilst in the corresponding period it was only 7J inches in Christchurch ; consequently, about the fifth part. During the whole year 1864, the rainfall in Christchurch amounted, according to Mr. Holmes's observations, to 22-093 inches. Corresponding to the latitude of Christchurch and Hokitika, the an nual rainfall ought to be about 25 inches. Taking those 67 days as an average, it would be nearly 200 inches per annum in Hokitika, or nine times as much as in Christchurch.

As I observed already in former publications we have to seek the cause of that enormous difference in the position of the West Coast, so well exposed to the equatorial currents, which bring with them a greater amount of rain everywhere, where the same conditions exist, and of which I shall give you only a few instances. The rainfall at the north-west coast of America is 80 inches; at Bergen in Norway, 83 inches; at Coimbra, in Portugal, 110 inches ; and at Westmoreland, in England, as much as 134 inches annually. That there is also such a similar heavy rainfall at the western coast Jof South America we know from Darwin's classical works on that region. Like our own West Coast, the former is covered with a dense and uniform forest vegetation, which, of course, again favours the condensation of the clouds, and, consequently, the fall of rain ; but these dense forests are generally not the cause of the rainfall, as popularly has been assumed, but just the reverse. Thus, it is obvious, as the perpetual snow-line, owing to the equable and humid climate, is at our West Coast very low, probably about 6500 feet near Mount Cook, and as the fall of snow and condensation of moisture must still be greater in those higher regions, where the equatorial currents come in contact with the cold surfaces of the Alps,

that all necessary conditions exist not only lor the formation of large glaciers, but also for their descent to much lower regions than at the east coast.

Standing at the sea-coast I very often observed that the mountains bounding the West Coast plains were covered with nimbus, or rain clouds, whilst we enjoyed fine weather hear the sea. At the same time, very often smaller freshes in the rivers could be observed, when not a drop of rain had fallen near the sea-beach, all confirming the still larger amount of moisture falling in the higher regions. The difference between the eastern and western side of the central chain is well exhibited by the great Tasman glacier, which, although of much larger dimensions than the Francis Joseph glacier, yet descends only to 2774 feet above the sea-level, whilst the latter reaches more than 2000 feet lower, namely, to 705 feet above the sea. It is true thatparticularcircumstances—as, for instance, a large cauldron-liKe basin, sheltered from the sun's rays by Mt. de la Beche and its outrunning spurs, in which these enormous snowmasses can accumulate, is very favourable for allowing the glaciers to descend to such a low position above the sea level, where arborescent ferns, pines, and' other low-land trees are growing. But if we compare its position with others in South America, we shall find that, from ranges tvhich are not so elevated as our Southern Alps, even in latitudes corresponding with the northern end of Stewart's Island, enormous glaciers descend in latitude 46 degrees 50 minutes, according to Darwin to the level of the sea, their terminal face being ultimately washed away and carried along as huge icebergs. Thus the conditions for the lowering of the snow-line and of fhe excess of moisture must still be greater in thf t part of America than in New Zealand, where the neighbourhood of Australia and Tasmania will certainly exercise some moderating influence, which in Terra del Fuego does not exist. From observations made in those and other regions, it is clear that the lowering of the snow-line does not depend on the mean temperature of the year, but on the low temperature of the summer.

The mean summer temperature of Christchurch, from observations made in 1864, is 61j°, enjoying generally, as we do, a clear and cloudless sky; but it is evident that at the West Coast it is much less, owing to the over-cast state of the atmosphere and the frequent rainfalls, and this will account for such a lowering of the snow-line on the western side of our Alps. But I think that there the mean temperature of the year will, nevertheless, not be lower than here in Christchurch, where it was 53|° during last year, with an average temperature of 61 ° for the summer, and 44£ ° for the winter months; the warmer winter at the West Coast compensating, without doubt, for the lower summer temperature. The position of the Francis Joseph glacier is about 43 deg. 35 min., corresponding in the northern hemisphere with that of Monpellier, Pau and Marseilles, in France, and Leghorn in Italy, where already the orange and lemon tree, the vine and the fig tree, are covered with juicy fruits, and where palm trees raise their graceful crown into the balmy air. Even in the European Alps, which lie some degrees further north, the; average altitude of the terminal face of: the larger glaciers is about 4000 feet, .'whilst we have to go twenty degrees more to the north, till we find, in Norway, glaciers descend to the same low position as the glacier under consideration, and to about 67° north, according to Leopold Yon BuCh, before the terminal face reaches the sea ; consequently more than 20 ° more towards the pole than in the southern hemisphere, in Terra del Fuego.

Thinking that these climatological observations would interest you, I have been induced to make them, and I may add that, according to the meteorological tables at my disposal, no climate in England resembles ours in Christchurch more closely than that of Torquay. There is a difference of a fraction more than one degree between the latter place and Christchurch, namely, 53J ° here, and 52 - 10 ° there, which is occasioned by our spring being 2£ °, and our autumn 1 ° warmer than in that English town, .so celebrated for its splendid climate ; whilst our winter and summer are equal within a quarter of a degree, namely, 6l£ ° ,and 44| °. These observations arebased upon only one year, since our meteorological station has been at work.

After another magnificent night, during which the splendid constellations of the southern hemisphere shone brilliantly from the starry vault, we returned next morning towards the coast, still favoured by the same glorious weather, camping at the mouth of the Waiau, below the nearly vertical cliffs, covered with ferns and flowering plants.where the large blocks allow vegetation to spring up. As we approached, next day, the mouth of the Okarita, we met several people with bags, on their way to collect shellfish amongst the rocks. They were dressed very scantily, and had, mostly, neither shoes nor head-coverings, and I heard from them that two days before, when intending to run into the Okarita, with a lifeboat, with which they had started,eleven weeks ago, from Riverton, in Southland, they had been wrecked ; and whilst two of their party had been drowned, five had been saved by the exertions of thediggers, who happened to see the boat. They probably would all have perished, as they were unable, when washed on shore by the waves, to rise and reach dry ground before the succeeding waves would have taken them back again, had not those brave and courageous men rushed into the surf to their assistance. Their boat, which had been saved, brought us to the other side. During our absence, another party of diggers had made a large canoe, to explore the Okarita lake ; so that future travellers will find ample means to cross this—for a mokihi—most dangerous channel. Since we left, several parties of miners had returned, and some more arrived the next day ; so that there were more than sixtv people camped round numerous fires, and gaiety and songs were heard everywhere in. this usually so solitary spot.

I had here once more occasion to observe the fine character of the real miner; and those who were camped around me were, as far as enterprise} knowledge of their trade, and power of endurance is concerned, the finest set of men one could meet. Although the poor shipwrecked fellows had scarcely an acquaintance amongst them, and that these returning parties had been all unsuccessful, the former had soon been rigged out, and received provisions enough to bring them to Hokitika. I have seen many a fine trait of the diggers, who are always ready to assist their fellow-creatures, that I cannot deprive myself of the pleasure to relate at least one instance, which shows so well that neither nationality nor colour, nor non - success prevents them from doing good. When travelling from Lake Brunner to the Greenstone creek goldfields, over a road which is difficult to describe, as the whole, for about 15 miles, consists of a miry channel, half filled with roots, rotten wood and boulders, of slippery hills and banks of creeks, often nearly perpendicular, the whole track intersected by numerous deep water-courses, 1" heard from some returning diggers # that a poor fellow had fallen down a precipice, and that he was lying in the bush in a most precarious state. As it was raining hard all the time, I pushed on as fast as we could, to see if we could not be of any assistance to him. Trying to go by a shorter road, he had slipped, falling down a vertical bank nearly 40 feet high ; the poor fellow was lying at the bottom of this precipice three days and nights, in an almost continuous rain, without food or shelter, and unable to move. Fortunately,

although very much bruised, he had not broken any bones; and, knowing that he would certainly perish if he did not come soon within reach of human aid, he at last crawled on, fortunately soon coming upon the track close at hand, where two unsuccessful and returning diggers found him. His clothes were rotting on his body ; he was speechless, and unable to move. But, although poor themselves, and having scarcely clothes enough to cover themselves, or provisions to bring them to Christchurch, and having no money to buy new ones, these twa men, like good Samaritans, stayed at once, built him a hut and a bed in it; they clothed him ; covered him with one of their own blankets ; gave him the greater part of their provisions, and, what they valued most, a Bible, which they had carried with them. They cut firewood for him, and stayed the ■whole of the night with him, till they were certain that he was out of danger.

And who do you think were these two poor diggers? Not Europeans, but two Indians, generally living in or near Christchurch, formerly with Mr. Cracroft Wilson, at Cashmere.

When we came up to the poor man, he was already much better, and I had soou the pleasure to see him safely in Hokitika. The poor fellow had tears of gratitude in his eyes when he spoke of the great kindness of those two good Samaritans. This is another proof, if such were wanted, that also under a dark skin a warm human heart is beating. This is only one instance, but I could give many more of a similar character. Monday, the 19th of June, we began to retrace our steps from the Okarita Lake, and found great difficulties in passing some of the rivers, the entrance of which had been nearly choked up by the sands travelling with the current, so that they formed large watersheds. On the rocks of Abut Head we found the remains of one of the unfortunate men drowned at the Okarita; we collected the pieces amongst the rocks, placed them in a bag, and gave them, below the cliffs, with the assistance of some miners, travelling with my party, a christian burial. The weather, which hitherto had/been so fine, began to become very boisterous ; and from Lake Poerua to the Waitaha, we had mostly heavy rain, ■whilst the last day, from the Waitaha to Hokitika, was one of those bright days which make the remembrance of that journey a very pleasant one. Mr. Chairman, Ladies, and Gentlemen,—l have endeavoured to unroll before you a picture of that wonderful golden coast of our province, but I found it so very difficult to condense so much material in such a narrow compass as the time occupied in delivering a lecture And in thanking you very heartily for the kind attention you have shown me, I may state that I shall be very happy if I have not entirely failed to interest you, to come another evening again before you, and describe some other portion of that interesting region.