MR. TORLESSE'S REPORT UPON THE CANTERBURY BLOCK.

Lyttelton Times, Volume I, Issue 26, 5 July 1851, Page 7

MR. TORLESSE'S REPORT UPON THE CANTERBURY BLOCK.

\ (Continued from our last.) % 9 Owing to the level nature of the country, there £-■ >c, perhaps, greater extremes of temperature here . than in other parts of New Zealand, where the Country is more mountainous, although this place is not liable to the violent contrast between the temperature of the day and that of the night, which is so peculiar, even during summer, in some others. Much less rain falls in Canterbury than in the hilly and wooded districts of New Zealand; and during the summer time four or five months sometimes elapse without more than a few showers. In the spring and autumn, there is usually just the desirable quantity, and during the winter time heavy rains with snow and sleet, which frequently last for two or three days. The snow seldom lies on the ground more than a few hours, and usually thaws as soon as it falls. The winter season lasts, speaking generally, from the 15th of May to the 15th of August, but night frosts sometimes set in at the middle of April, and last till September. Even in the coldest time, the frost has not been known to continue through the day, unless under shade, at least anywhere near the coast, and at only a slight elevation above the sea. The snow line during the winter season is at an elevation of between 2500 and 8000 feet above the sea, but snow rests for many successive days, sometimes upon the low hills. i In each of the winters of 1849 »d. 1850, there were only : twenty-four rainy and showery days ; during the intervals, the weather was generally brilliant and exhilarating in the day time, but the nights always cold. The transition from winter to summer, and vice versa, can hardly be called that between distinct seasons as far as the difference of temperature during the day is concerned. The sea breeze~?md prevailing wind here, is from the north-east, and generally sets in at about 10 a.m., freshening up towards sunset, when it is succeeded by calm or a light land breeze. It is very agreeable and exhilarating, and generally accompanied by fine clear weather, but now and then Wows in a gale and brings fog or light rain. The south-east wind rarely blows home here, though it sometimes drives up a heavy sea upon the whole line of coast. The north-west wind prevails most during the autumn, but occurs pretty frequently during the spring and summer months. It blows in violent gusts, and is generally a warm dry wind, indeed, at times positively hot, and somewhat resembling the " hot winds " of Australia, the cause of this has not been satisfactorily investigated, but it is supposed that in passing over the bare rocky mountains, which attract the sun's rays, it may receive some accession of heat, which is doubtless increased during its passage over the plains. Heavy rains fall on the west coast, and araoii| the mountains, during its continuance, but not in this district, which fact accounts for its dryness, and so, perhaps, in some measure, for its height of temperature. This weather may be called the only unpleasant feature in this climate for which we were not prepared ; but it affects people differently, stimulating some, while it has a relaxing effect upon others. Happily, during its continuance the sun is often shaded over by a thin veil of clouds, and we certainly are indebted to it for some states of subdued brilliance and transparency of atmosphere which are generally unknown even in New Zealand. This wind is almost invariably succeeded by one from the south west, which in the summer time is a cool and pleasant guest, but in the winter season what is aptly denominated "a burst," and sometimes lasts for two or three days, being generally accompanied by rain, if not snow and sleet. This wind is similar to the well-known "south-easter" of New Zealand, which, here, tends up with the land, and so has a south-westerly direction. Generally, except during the continuance of this weather, the climate is very enjoyable and wholesome, and, at the same time, has not the effect, as far as we are able to judge at present, of deteriorating the British race, as some fine climates do. * But its excellence can only be fully appreciated by those who have suffered much exposure here, and seen the luxuriant vigour of both animal and vegetable life, which latter is more owing to it than to the quality of the soil, i The first sight of the Canterbury Settlement is --m^ striking to every one, and particularly those Vfv;tjUare familiar with other parts of New Zealand: and! if to some tastes the general aspect of the country; -a-vast fertile-expanse-withi a finely curved coast line, and^bounded in the distance' by lofty [ mountain ranges, fails to be gratifying, there is no ; one who will not acknowledgethe beauty of paiti-

cular views, which are grand even in this land of picturesque scenery.

During north-west weather, from the top of Mount Herbert, which is easily attainable from Lyttelton, you command a distinct view of the whole district, and of the extreme end of the Great Plains, to the southward, and of the Kaikoras, a range of grand snowy mountains near the.coast, to the northward. Every nook of Banks's promontory is novel and rich in variety of form and co. lours. Some of the headland cliffs are magnificent, and have a remarkable combination of tints, principally imparted by the various shades of the volcanic soils, prominent among which is the puzzuslana, coloured crimson and red.

There is some curious scenery on the Farquhar, Kowai, and Ashley, where they cleave through the hills, and the whole of the country near the hills is charming in scenery; but the finest views are on the passes of the Courtenay and Cholmondeley.

The formation of the great plains is of waterworn pebbles, of different sizes, but larger towards the hills, with occasional marly strata, as disclosed by the cleavage of the rivers. Banks's promontory seems entirely of volcanic formation, and there are distinct traces of the action of the waves at a great height above the present high-water mark. No marine deposits have been found on the promontory, or on the plains, except on the Cholmondeley, where some late explorers have discovered, at about 200 feet below the top of its banks, a bed containing fossil shark's teeth in good preservation. Beautiful specimens of limestone, intermixed with fossil marine shells, are to be found in the cliffs of the Kowai, where it breaks through the spurs of Mount Grey. There is a range immediately north of the Double Corner, formed of large blocks of white limestone, evidently water-worn, below which the formation is red sandstone, intersected by vertical dykes of lava. The river Farquhaf has forced a passage through these; and on its banks are found beautiful specimens of fossil shells, exactly similar to those now existing in the adjacent seas, the commonest of which are immense oysters lying in their native beds, which are petrified, and still'in a horizontal position.

Good building stone, abundant and easily worked is found on the shores of Port Victoria. Lumps of white limestone frequently occur in the beds of the streams leading from Mount Grey, which with blocks of lignite have been washed down by the current. A seam of lignite crops out on the banks of the Farquhar, not far from the coast.

Coal has not yet been found in the district, though besides some at the south end of the plains, there is a vein at Motunau, said to be of fair quality and accessible ; but the Canterbury district has not yet been geologically explored; and there is every reason to believe that many useful and interesting discoveries have still to be made.

Imperfect remains of the moa are abundant on the surface near Sumner, and elsewhere on the plains ; apparently the refuse of former native feasts, but no complete specimens have been found, notwithstanding that the river banks are much washed down, and disclose the formation and deposits. The native population of the district is very small, considering the range of country, its fertility and resources for the race. It mimbers only between 400 and 500 souls in the villages of Kaipoi, Pigeon Bay, Albert, Raupaki, Akaroa, Wairewa, and Taumutu. These natives are very inferior, both morally and physically, to those of the north, being chiefly returned slaves, or those of too low rank to have had the honour of being eaten by the northern tribes, who massacred large quantities of them. They are now sensibly diminishing in number, for which no other cause than that which existed before the presence of the whites, can be adduced. They are careless in person, food, and lodging, very steady and sober, and greedy to an excess in the acquisition of money, (if the effort does not involve much severe labour), which, however, thy spend freely in the purchase of European clothing, sugar, and tobacco.

They practise the outward forms of religion, but have not had the advantage of missionary instruction, having only acquired their knowledge from stray visitors from the north, and but few can read or write. They are useful as labourers for any short stroke of work, such as building a hut, digging or planting potatoes, sheep-washing, &c. but cannot be depended upon for much steady laboui. They are found to form excellent crews for the shore whale-fisheries, the alternate excitement of the chase and interval of indolence being perfectly congenial to their taste.

j4,There are evidences of large tribes having existed formerly in this district. It is said that there were formerly constant fights between the inhabitants of Kiapoi, Akaroa, and other places inland, and that they were nearly exterminated by some northern tribes headed by Rauperaha, who were covetous of the greenstone that these natives had procured with great trouble from the west coast. The war happened about, twenty years ago, and the principal point of attack was near Kiapoi, where a warlike body, who were a terror to the rest of the neighbouring country, inhabited a large fortified pah. This

is an interesting relic: the three zigzag approaches of the besiegers made by the Ngatitoa, Ngatiawa, and Ngatiraukawa tribes respectively were constructed with military tact. V, it'iin the fortification are the remains of the settlement, left as it was razed, for the natives have deserted the place ever since the massacre. . They point out a hillock in the neighbourhood where Rauperaba crucified his victims, and sucked their blood from a wound inflicted by a red-hot ramrod. Several skulls have been picked up in a large hole near this mound. If true th it this was the humu, or steaming oven in which the bodies were cooked, there must indeed have been an extensive feast.

The pah is surrounded on three sides by a lagoon, and though it was commanded by adjacent hillocks, and the assailants had muskets, the underground houses afforded shelter, and the attacked sustained a siege for four months, when provisions failed them. The enemy occupied the gardens which were outside the fortifications.

There are no quadrupeds indigenous to the country except a small species of rat, which is now becoming extinct; but pigs, dogs, and rats have been introduced by the whites, and have spread over the country, cattle and goats have run wild within the last few years in the forests of Banks Promontory, and the latter have multiplied exceedingly. The pigs were only turned out here about six years ago ; and the country is very favourable to hunting them, from the facility of traversing it, so that they have not increased so much here as generally in New Zealand: but still there are a few left, notwithstanding the slaughter that has been made amongst them; and the old boars afford some sport. The dog was probably brought here much earlier, as some of those now wild in the country have degenerated into the genuine wild dog or Australian dingo. They are too numerous for the sheep farmers, and give really fine sport with good horses, and hounds, which should be a cross between the greyhound and the bull-terrier. Rats swarm in the country, and are scattered all. over the plains in little colonies, which riders should be carelul to avoid, as the burrows are liable to trip up a horse. The Paradise Duck, or New Zealand variegated goose, the grey duck, and several varieties of teal and widgeon, are numerous in Ellesmere and in the swampy districts. But quails are the principal game here, as they are very abundant, and afford good shooting with a quick-working dog. They sometimes rise in coveys, but more commonly in pairs : the season is from the Ist of March to the end of August, as they breed twice during the summer. They are about half the size of a partridge, and of excellent flavour, but have powerful enemies besides sportsmen, as they are destroyed by fires, driven off by stock, and preyed upon by hawks, buzzards, rats, wild dogs, and wild cats. Several varieties of ornamental and singing birds, such as are found elsewhere in New Zealand, are also pretty abundant. Pigeons, and kakas (a large, brown and red parrot) are met with in all the woods, and give good pot shooting. There are some few torments in the country, which, however disappear as it is cleared and settled. Mosquitoes set in at spring time, and are very troublesome in the swampy and low-lying wooded tracts. These are succeeded by hosts of fleas, from which there appears to be no escape in the uncivilized habitations. Then the large bluebottle flies arrive in swarms, and deposit their eggs in provisions and woollen- clothing, but fortunately not in the fleece. Sand flies, which are so annoying elsewhere in New Zealand, are not very numerous here. Eels are the only freshwater fish of much_ consequence, but there are eel ponts (a species of trout), and flounders in some of the streams. The young of the enaki, very much like the white-bait, are a delicacy, and much prized by the natives, who catch them with hand-nets in slow deep streams.

Some saltwater fish, like the sole, hen-ing, cod, and oysters, are found about Banks's Promontory; but no regular fisheries have been yet established. The whale appears to be deserting the coast, but there are still a couple of boats manned at Piraki; and a few Hobart Town whalers cruize out of Pigeon Bay in the season. There were about 50 horses, 17,000 sheep, and 1,400 horned cattle here, in the possession of those who settled here several years before the country was occupied by the Canterbury Association, besides several since imported ; also six dairy stations, which supplied about 12 tons per year of the celebrated Port Cooper cheese. The feed and climate have been found very favourable to all kinds of stock, which are remarkably free from the diseases which are incident to them in England, except the scab in sheep, which has lately been introduced. It is to be hoped that the late steps taken by authorities will prevent. the spread of this evil, which might materially retard the prosperity of the colony. , ■ I beg you to excuse the failings in this hurried attempt to describe a country which is worthy of able scientific investigation, ■ ~

And have the honour to he Sir, ' Your most obedi«nt servant, Charles O. Torlesse.