FINAL ATTEMPT

Hokitika Guardian, 10 June 1936, Page 5

FINAL ATTEMPT

ON MT. EVEREST LEADER IS NOT OPTIMISTIC. (United Press Association —By Electu* Telegraph—Copyright) LONDON, June 9. A copyright message from Mr Ruttledge, the expedition leader, at Camp One, sent yesterday (Monday) states: Wyn Harris and Shipton narrowly escaped with their lives during a daring reconnaissance, after which it was decided to abandon the attempt for the year 193(5. After an abortive attempt on June 5, to re-occupy Camp Four, a tremendous north-westerly wind continued to sweep Mt Everest, causing the north face with the treacherous North Col slopes to be obviously unclimbable. Sheets of snow were flying across the slopes, causing a debate in the camp as to whether, after a cold night followed by brilliant sun and incessant wind, we should find the snow safe. Harris and Shipton undertook the risk of making an inspection. They safely scaled the first five hundred feet, a direct, steep upward ascent in .the old track. Then they began a horizontal traverse to the left, which we always suspected to be dangerous. Although the angle of the snow was only moderate, and the surface hard and good, without the slightest warn ing there came a ripping sound. The snowfield split across the surface, breaking up into ice blocks, and began sliding down towards the edge of a four hundred foot ice cn.fi just below. Shipton was quietly, hut irresistibly carried away but Harris who was behind and was nearer the top, edge of the avalanche, made a tremendous effort to leap back to the edge of a crevasse, on the lip of which he jammed his axe, and secured a rope on to it ; pulling Shipton back sideways fom the sliding ice. The ice rope tautened, and it was beginning to pull the axe out, when the avalanche stopped, just before pouring over the ice wall. Harris’ prompt action certainly saved them both. Meanwhile, another avalanche, more to the left broke away independently. Shipton was completely winded by the pressure of the rope, but Harris got down safely. Their bold investigation confirmed beyond possible doubt, the risk of tampering with the North Col slopes once the monsoon air currents have.begun to delay them. But for .this reconnaissance, me whole climbing . party and porters would have made another attempt to re-occupy Camp Four The result could only' have been disastrous. Therefore the attempt on Mt Everest by the only known route must be abandoned for 1936.

It is terribly disappointing with the mountain now, belatedly, in a good condition, and an absolutely first-rate part) ready to attack it. However, rt would be criminal to send them within reach of an avalanche, or that terrible ice field.

As a last effort we are starting up the main Rongbuk Glacier to-dav in order to examine the west side of the North Col, but, as Mallory decided against trying it in 1931, and Shipton’s party disliked the look of it last year, I cannot be optimistic.”