A Ride Through Whakamara,

Hawera & Normanby Star, Volume X, Issue 1846, 4 February 1888, Page 2

A Ride Through Whakamara,

(By Our Manutahi and Whakamara

Correspondent.)

Heretofore I have indited my letters from Manutahi. In all of them I have had a little to write about Whakamara. I find many of the settlers in there are not averse to the notice I take of them. Certainly, I may point out little defects or shortcomings, but criticism will do no very great harm, and I propose to deal fairly with them : hit hard when required, give credit where credit is due, but, in all cases, according to newspaper rules. Therefore, as their self-constituted press representative, I will, in this letter, give a brief sketch ot that splendid but comparatively unknown district — Whakamara. Twelve months ago, while talking to an Okaiawa friend ot some years' standing, I told him I had business in Whakamara. Where is Whakamara? was the query. Well, for the information of those who do not know where the location of this settlement is, I will state it is a block of land situated to the eastward of Mokoia and the Manutahi railway station, approached by two well-graded roads — one going in from Mokoia Flat, while the other branches off at the Manawapon traffic bridge. Originally, a large area of this land was set apart in 50-acre blocks, as military settlers' allotments. Many of the grantees still hold their sections, while others have drifted into larger holdings ; while to the back a considerable area was sold for cash and deferred payments. Some land sold under the latter condition realised no less than £14 2s 6d per acre. I will defer particulars till further on, when I will go more into details. Manutahi, a few years ago, was a lively and prosperous place, but this last year or two the settlers have left, and their allotments have been amalgamated. Our percentage of farm managers in proportion to total population is indeed very large. It might not be inapt to adopt the observation of the Irishman who, on arrival m New York, being questioned re the ■state of Ireland and if there were many absentee landlords, replied that the country was full of 'em. It is so, largely, with Manutahi. Many of our best farms are owued and held by absentee proprietors. Although it cannot be disputed that the land in this quarter is, taking it all round, superior to much of the vaunted Waimate Plains, yet we have our drawbacks. From a commercial point of view, we are on the decline ; in fact, at a low round of the latter. Yet our land stands forth as a redeeming quality ; and the land in Whakamara is of nearly the same quality as in Manutahi. If the reader will bear this in mind it will save me the trouble of referring to it so often bye and bye. Many settlers in there assert it is superior to the front, as it is not yet exhausted by over- cropping. Be that as it may, every* thing is now looking its best, and, from a grazier's and farmer's point of view, it is all that can be desired. I will now take the reader, in imagination, for a trip through the block. Taming off the Manawapou traffic bridge, a smart canter of about three-quarters of a mile along a

level piece of road and we are at the railway bridge. Before coming to this structure, we pass the homes of Mr. George Powell, gange •, and Mr. John McSweeney, platelayer. Passing under the railway bridge — we go down a short incline — we come to the Ingahape traffic bridge ; from the level of the floor to the table land on top, a distance of 50 chains, there is a rise of 250 feet, but a good grade is maintained. Part of the this road is metalled, and it was done at a very costly rate. Winding round the elbows we soon find ourselves on top, and as we ascend a beautiful panorama opens to view. When we reach the plateau above, we are instructively prompted to turn and have a look at the valleys, the passing train, and the railway viaduct. On the level land here is the residence of Mrs. Edwards. The late Mr. Edwards was one of the pioneer settlers. Since the family settled here, they have carried on dairying in all its branches. And since the death of Mr. Edwards, the widow, assisted by the members of her family, has still followed the lines of the deceased. The comfortable homestead well kept orchard, garden, and farm indicate care and industry. Half a mile farther on and on the opposite side of the road is the bachelor residence of Mr. Beavel, who is a recent arrival in here, and who has not yet had time to do much. To the right or east Bide of the road, we turn in through a gate, which is erected on a Government road. On either side is the leasehold of Mr. A. Bremer, who has recently purchased Mr. C. Stone's interest in the place. Some wheat, oats, and barley on this farm look very healthy and promising. This farm at one time was the property of Mr. W. Wallace, who brought the farm into good order, but over speculation, low prices for cattle, and farm produce worked against our worthy and industrious pioneer settler and soldier. Mr. Wallace has leased a compact little farm close by, and owned by Mr. W. Thompson, of Hawera. Mr. Wallace has carried on dairy farming for some years. Lately he disposed of bis dairy cows, and , will shut up his bush farm, which is a few miles higher up. and some 800 acres in extent, for cocksfoot. He proposes to remove his residence this summer. Mr. Wallace has fought through many of our Maori wars, and an hour or two in bis company is really interesting, more especially when he fights his battles over again. One of his brothers fell with Yon Tempsky, at Te-Ngutu-o-te-Manu. At some furture date I propose to spend a few hours with Mr. Wallace, and should he be willing, I will|lay hie war reminiscences before your readers. A column or two of past doings of the Wanganui Cavalry troop by one of themselves would, a,t this date, be interesting reading. A smart canter for half a mile or so across some splendid turf and we regain one of the main roads, where not a culvert is required. The next stopping place is Mr. W. Milham's. Before this settler's homestead can be reached from the Ingahape road, we have to cross rather a steep gully ; that once negociated, we find his residence comfortably located among Ngaiho and fruit trees, the latter just now in full bearing. Mr. Milham, through hard work and industry, has made a comfortable home. His holding is free and leasehold ; in main the former, The next eettler further up is Mr. Duncan McGregor, who holds about 400 acres of Maori lease. This settler adds cattle dealing to his farming, and is well known along this coast. On the west side of the Ingahape Boad is the home farm and residence of Mr. A. Illston. Mr. Illston is a native of Leicestershire, England, and for some time a Custom-house officer in the Mauritius. The gold fever breaking out, he followed for a time its precarious fortune, but, like many more, did not make a pile. As one of the early settlers, he came in here, and by hard work, industry, and perseverance has now got a comfortable homestead and snug farm of agricultural land around him. He also holds 300 acres a few miles further up, but works it from here. Mr. Illston always had, and has yet, every faith and confidence in the future stability of Whakamara. Adjoining the above is the farm of Mr. Geo. Buckrell, which comprises 700 acres, the major portion boing open, level, agricultural land, some of it costing originally over £14 per acre from the Crown. One thing that strikes the observer is the well-kept gorse fenoes, wire fences well-strained, and gates in good order — all go to show the methodical turn of Mr. Buckrell's farming qualifications. Let us see how he gained them. Born in Middle Cbinnock, Somersetshire, England. While he was yet of early age, his father died, and on him, as the eldest of a numerous latnily, devolved the management of the farm, which was ot large extent. When the younger members grew up to manhood, Mr. Buckrell came out to New Zealand, and immediately went on his uncles' (Messrs. J. and E. Paul, of Wanganui) estate in Maryborough Province. Afterwards he became Mr. H. Redwood's manager. He then moved over to Tologa Bay, on the East Coast of this island, where he managed the Wharekaka Station, comprising 28,000 acres. Leaving there, he came to this coast, got married, bought this farm, and settled down. The bush on this farm is in mam situated in sloping gullies, and forms excellent winter quarters for cattle. The homestead residence is a commodious, well-ventilated building, sitaated some little distance from the road and partly surrounded with a copse of native bush. The paddock surrounding the dwelling house has a splendid clump of ngaios in it, and from this the farm takes its name — Ngaio Park Farm. On the opposite side of the road from Mr. Buckrell's residence is the location of the Whakamara pah, which during the late Maori war was the scene of the last engagement with the natives on this coast. We now enter the bush land on the Payne Boad, which here is partly felled, and next come to a Maori reserve leased by Mr. Quillinan, bootmaker, Manutahi. Mr. Quillinan's youngest son attends to the farm management. The next section to Quillinan's is one leased with purchasing clause by Mr. W. Wallace from Mr. Biddiford, of Hawera. As I have already referred to Mr. Wallace in the earlier part of this letter, I will now pass on to his next neighbor, Mr. H. Thomas, who leases a considerable area from Mr. Payne and others. Adjoining Mr. Thomas' and for a time joined part of that settler's possessions, is Mr. O. Williams' farm. Mr. Williams was one of the early selectors, but left here two years ago, and took up some land near Waitara, a few months back he, with his family, returned to reside here once more. He conoludes there are worse lands in New Zealand than in Whakamara, and resolves to stay here for the future. Mr.lllston's selection is the furthest up in this direction. All I can learn about the land between this place and the Patea river is that it is like Wales— rather undulating— and is still in the possession of the Crown, and likely to remain so lor some time to come. Retracing our steps we have down hill at pot too steep an incline, and come back to the middle of Mr. Buckrell's farm and tarn westwards along the Mells road. Passing •" through a gate across this road we find ourselves on the top of the Poko-Moka gorge. A beautiful view presented itself and we stop to survey the scene. Looking up and down the gorge the sombre line ot the bush is relieved by an endless variety of native flowers, the odour of which is truly exhilarating; while down in the bottom may be heard the gurgling of the stream. The mind under such circumstances is iuvoluntarily led into a poetical strain. Moore, in singing the praise of the Yale of Avoca (a place where the writer spent his early days) writes : —

'• There is not in the wide world A valley so sweet As the Yale of Avoca, where the

Bright waters meet."

Had Moore seen this vale in its nativ9 grandeur I doubt if he would have been f>o comprehensive. Wheeler an imitator of Ireland's poet, writing on scenery on the same river, would, with a slight modification, be more appropriate for it is expressive of all that is in view : — " Umbrageous woods and meadows green The brooklets and the wooden mansion, The ridges heavy vales between to give

to give the pcene expansion." Around the block could be seen the glittering of the sun's rays on the iron roofs, which gave a homely appearance to the surroundings. Close to this place the Whakamara people have secured an acre of land as a site for a publio hall and schoolhouse. A more picturesque spot could not be found in there. Children taught in such a place should learn to entertain admiration for the beautiful. Crossing this valley, we start on our downward journey. At each angle of the road, fresh sights meet oar view, each, if possible, more enchanting than tbe preceding ones. For a mile this continues. We cross a bridge at the bottom, which is more like a structure in a fairy scene than a useful means of transit across the Otoki. Perhaps it may be that the surrounding scene lends enchantment to tbe senses. However, be that as it may, everything looked its best on one of the few really ■pring days we have had lately.

(To be Continued.)