THE HOME GARDEN

Hutt News, Volume 15, Issue 42, 15 April 1942, Page 2

THE HOME GARDEN

(By D. K. Pritchard, Instructor of Vegetable Culture, N,Z. Department of Agriculture, who writes for the Home Gardeners' column in the "N.Z. Journal of Agriculture.")

SOWING AND HARVESTING DURING APRIL "It might be possible to do without flowers; but the vegetable garden —never." "Today's failures should be trie stimulant for tomorrow's success." "Stopping" tomato plants consists of cutting off the main top growth, but care must be taken to allow one lateral to remain well above the topmost truss ol' fruit. This growth permits the plant an outlet for its energy, and induces the development of the higher trusses of tomatoes. All flowers above the highest truss of fruit which is expected to ripen should be removed. The subsequent growth of foliage from the lateral remaining tends to prevent sunscald of the top fruit, and considerably lessens the liability of the tomatoes splitting after rain which may be followed by bright sunshine. Tomatoes on well-grown plants should now be maturing faster than they can be used in the ordinary household. This being so, preserving may be carried on to ensure that supplies of processed fruit will be available during the long period which intervenes between producing seasons. As an article of food, lew vegetables stand higher in value than the tomato. It contains valuable mineral salts, and is rich in vitamin-content. It contains the valuable vitamins B1 and 82, and has a higher vitamin B complex content than most fruits. In a special report of the British Medical Research Council, No. 167 the tomato was declared to contain a higher vitamin-content than the orange. Red ripe tomatoes rank equal in vitamin C with grapefruit, lemon juice, orange juice, lettuce, and raw spinach. Vitamin C is the antiscorbutic vitamin, the lack of which in food results in the development of scurvy. It also plays an important part in controlling the calcium and phosphorus in the body tissues. The tomato can be eaten raw and cooked in many different \yays, and, although the vitamins in most vegetables are changed or decl'based by cooking, those of the tomato remain practically unaffected. Home gardeners should therefore endeavour by every possible means to prolong the profitable life of their plants. Seeds to Sow Seed sowing of general garden crops is practically finished for the season, but seed may still be sown of beetroot (Derwent Globe or Egyptian Turnip Hooted), lettuce (Neapolitan or Wonderful—winter special), radish (Long Scarlet or Scarlet Globe), and Spinach (prickly). If onion seed has not yet been sown, it should be attended to without delay. Sow in rows 2 inches apart in a seedling box filled with good, finely-sieved soil, with which has been mixed a handful of bonedust. Make shallow furrows for the seed, which should be lightly covered with a mixture ,pf 1 part soil, 1 part leaf mould, and one part sand. Inclusion of sand in the mixture will prevent the covering from "setting" hard on top of the seed. The box should be placed in the shade and covered with paper, which must be removed as soon as the seed begins to germinate. When the seedlings are about 1 inch high, put a light sprinkling of blood and bone manure between tin rows and work it into the soil. This can be done very well with an ordinary dining fork. Cultivation should at all times be shallow and the surface soil never permitted to become "set." Treat the onion seedling as a delicate plant—which it is—and one that requires careful attention, as these seedlings will later be transplanted. Spring Cabbage. The seed of the "Flower ol Spring" variety of cabbage, it sown as previously suggested - in these notes, should have produced plants that will now be ready for setting out. It is an advantage to set the plants on a slightly raised bed; this will provide for drainage of the excessive rain which is usually experienced during winter. Set the plants in rows 12 inches apart, and allow the same distance between the plants. This is close planting , but in the early spring, when green vegetables are invariably scarce and greatly appreciated harvesting is done by cutting out every second plant in the row. Where this practice is adopted the remaining plants will have ample space for greater- development, and should grow into good, well-shaped conical heads. Planting Plants for transplanting should never be pulled, they should be dug out. Removed in this manner none of the delicate feeding rootlets are destroyed, and the plants will become! established more quickly. Before set ting out, and to destroy aphis or caterpillars which may be on tlii! plants, it. would be an advantage if they were dipped in a mixlure; made by adding 1 teaspoonful of nicotine sulphate and li teaspoonfuls of hydra ted lime to a gallon of water. When setting, the soil must be pressed lirmly against the roots of the plants. This can best be done by pressing down the soil immedi-

ately above the root of the plant with the heel ol' one's boot. ManuringBlood and Bone manure mixed with half its weight of superphosphate and applied broadcast over the bed at the rate of 1 Alb. per square yard will give the plants a good start. This must be well worked into the soil before planting is started. A few handl'uls of crushed carbonate of lime broadcast after digging will tend to keep the soil "sweet" and in condition for action on whatever fertilisers may be used for crop production. Harvesting- Crops As soon as convenient, all crops likely to be damaged by frost should be harvested and stored. Potatoes are ready for digging when the skin cannot be removed by rubbing, unless with exceptional pressure. The tubers should not be permitted to remain in the ground after maturity has been reached. During periods of wet weather second growth may start, and i«uch of the value and flavour of the potato will be lost. After being thoroughly dried, the tubers may be stored in clean sacks or boxes, and placed in a cool shed where there is no danger of frost reaching them. "Greening" of potatos by exposure to light leads to the development of a poisonous alkaloid called solanin, which is found in the haulm. Kmneras. — Kumeras should be dug carefully and before being injured by frost. All tubers which are bruised or damaged while digging should be put aside for immediate use, and those which it is intended to store should be left on the ground for several days to become thoroughly dry. They may be covered at night with their foliage. Much the same storage conditions as are suitable for potatoes apply to kumeras. In small quantities they may be stored in sand.