Women’s World

Hawke's Bay Tribune, Volume XIV, Issue 276, 1 November 1924, Page 10

Women’s World

Frills i i ogues _ ADS & V And # OIBLES W AGARIES

(By

“Gyp.")

Special Weekly Feature, supplied exclusively to the Hawke’s Bay “Tribune,” by The Central Press, Fleet Street, London.

A conspicuous feature of the interim period is the jumper. The most lovely confections are abroad, mainly in silk or satin, with original colour harmonies and embroidery motifs. One model of printed silk—a design of small purple grapes and vineleaves on a lavender background, had a round collar and bebe sleeves of silver tissue. It was a perfect alliance. Another, of heavy cream satin (this last being much i nthe mode) gained great charm and distinction from a deep hem of broidered canvas worked in applique fashion in lacquer red. Chinese blue and Chinese gold, with roll collar and turn back cuffs cn suite. NOVEL TOUCHES. Very chic, too, is the juniper waistcoat of cream satin, similarly embroidered, for wear with a suit of fine reps or silk finish alpaca in grey, nigger, navy or black. A quaint sleeveless jumper of pale rose silk illustrated a novel note in its berthe collar of pale lilac organdi, stitched with narrow frills of pale rose picot edged ribbon, with accompanying detachable cuffs tied on with ribbons en suite. This idea naturally replaces the übiquitous bracelet vogue for the bare arm. One sees a number of silk jersey frocks with a centre shoulder cane at the back, terminating en pointe, and finished with a Chinese tassel at the low waistline. Silk jersey juniper suits are charming for afternoon wear, with their Peter Pan collars and cuffs in a contrasting silk. One such model that made a special appeal was of a real peacock blue with beige silk collar and cuffs, edged, as was the skirt hem as well as the jumper, with narrow black silk braid. With a little cloche in the same lovely blue, it made a delectable outfit. THE TAILORED SUIT. Numbers of the new suits, giving a prolonged life to reps as a favoured costume fabric, herald grey as a prevailing colour. Beige has had things pretty much its own way for some time but it would seem that grey, with touches of red, is to supplant it. The overdone with camelia motif has not daunted the modistes. A feature of these models is the red gilet W’iih a red camellia in the lapel buttonhole of the straight, short coat. The skirt of the new walking suit of grey rens is knife-pleated. One will see the gilet vogue, with boutonniere to match, in other colour harmonies; nigger and old gold, with old gold buttonhole flower of conventional design; a rich ruby red and silver grey duvetyn, exploiting the same motif, and a dark myrtle green with beige. THE DEMI BOOT.

A weird new footwear note is what one may call, faute de nieux, the demi boot. It is a delicate affair in black satin with extended ankle pieces fastened in the usual way with button and strap. Novel, but indubitably difficile for all but the slenderest foot and ankle. It may herald a vogue of boots proper, but one hazards the prophecy that boots will not return again to favour in our busy age ! —quite apart from considerations of line and style. Boots do not fit into our new dress modes; not in the least.

VEIL CHIN STRAPS. The Parisian milliner is coquetting with a new idea in the veil chin strap. A triangular piece of dainty lace of very fine mesh is stitched at either Side of the brim and passed under the chin. Another lace notion is the scarf of black Chantilly that first covers and swathes the crown and then floats, in a single end, on to the right shoulder, and occasionally even to the low waistline. These long single scarf ends are featured also 111 chiffon or ninon on a swathed turban of georgette. CONCERNING COIFFURES. The woman who has not succumbed to the shingle vogue should feel very pleased with life just now. Society, with a capital “S” appears with a neatly, waved coiffure dressed on the nape of the neck, with one or two curls rippling about the ears. The shingle is left to Bohemia and the lesser lights of the theatre. It has had its day. Women who can follow so trying a 1 vogue are reverting to the bare forehead hairdressing. The hair is brushed

smoothly from the forehead and dressed in a Psyche knot at the crown of the head, with a single natural or pin-on curl at each ear. THE SIDE JABOT. A pretty notion that accentuates the charm of ‘the artistic side-drapery of flounced ninon, chiffon or georgette, is the jabot worn on one sid.e of the corsage allied to the draped skirt. The jabot is stitched to the side opposite that which is draped on the dupe. And almost invariably it is monogrammed jus tabove the picot-edged hem. Thus a frock of white charmeuse had a cascade frill of white ninon from the left hip, while a side jabot en suite adorned the right side of the “V” neck of the long bodice, being monogrammed in pale primrose just above its edge of the same Bracelets of pale primrose ribbon, similarly edged, were the finishing touch to this sleeveless gown.

♦ ♦ * * How to Cot Stencils

THE NEW DECORATION. Now that walls arc being distempered or covered with plain papers, there is tremendous scope for the woman who can do her own stecilling. especially if she is ..able to design and cut her stencil plates, and so minimise the expense. The materials required for the cutting are a drawing board, a piece of oil royal large enough to cover the entire design, a sheet of carbon paper, a steel tracer, a sharp pen-knife and a sheet of glass. Place the oil royal (which can be purchased at any artist colourman’s) on the drawing board, the carbon paper on top, followed by the design, right side upwards, of course. Secure these firmly to the board' by means of drawing pins and outline the design with the point of the steel tracer. The. carbon will transfer the impression of the design on to the oil royal. Next place the sheet of glass beneath the oil royal and cut out the design with the pen-knife. This should be very sharp so that the edges are clear cut, without any raggedness, which would entirely spoil the stencilled outline

In choosing a design, see that the lines are simple and bold, without too much detail. An intricate design should not be attempted, as the oil royal is subjected to a great deal of r handling, and it might break before ’ you have finished with it. After the f design has been cut, the sheet of oil ? royal becomes what is known as a 5 “plate,” and elaborate schemes often f require as many as six plates. These, j of course, are not used by the amateur homo decorator, although they can b easily be carried out after a little prac--5 tice. ■ When the stencil plate is ready for r use, the next thing is to work on the _ colours. This is done, not like ordinary painting, but with a “scrubbing” movement, up and down with the stencil brush held perfectly upright. Use only a minimum of paint at a 1 time, taking especial care as the brush nears the edge of the outline that the , colour does - not run beneath the oil i royal. If it is the first attempt at j stencilling, it is best to bo content j with one colour; afterwards as much j shading as desired can bo attempted, s Always shade up from the palest colour . required to the darkest, and remember i that the depth of colour depends -' mainly, on the amount of pressure on I the brush.

TROUSSEAU TRINKETS. A travelling clock is usually included in a bride’s list of presents, ’but never before has ‘it reached its present state of perfection. There are dainty, bejewelled clocks that make one gasp with delight, so perfect are they. Others of exquisite design, are enamelled in one shade, with streamers of ribbon, tied here and there into lovers’ knots, in another. Then .there are the newest bags, with lip stink attachments on the outside. The bags are made of moire, brocade or gold mesh, but the little lip stick containers are chiefly of gold inset with jewels. A gold one with bands of black onyx, and a large ruby in the centre of the dainty, screwn-on cap, was very attractive. COOKERY CORNER. Here is a new way of cooking beef steak, which you will find delicious:— Chop one medium white onion, and one green pepper; place them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of melted butter; cook for three minutes without browning, gently stirring meanwhile ; then add four ounces of well cleaned rice; stir well while cooking for one minute. Moisten with two gms of hot water and one gill of hot tomato sauce. Season with half-tea-spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of saffron and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. Cover the pan and set in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes. Remove and keep hot. . Cut one and a-half pounds of raw beef steak into half inch squares. Heat two tablespoonsful of melted butter in a saucepan, add the beef, season with half teaspoonful Of salt, and cook on a bri.sk fire for five minutes. Take up the beef with a skimmer and add it to the risotto. Mix well with a wooden spoon and Cook in the oven for five minutes. Bran Bread: Ingredients required— Two cupsful each of bran, white flour, wholemeal flour, sour milk, halfcupful of golden syrup and treacle mixed, one egg, two tablespoonsful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of baking soda and halfteaspoonful of baking powder. Beat up the egg well with the sugar and salt; add the sugar, treacle and sour milk, having first dissolved the baking ‘soda in the milk. Blend ingredients in a large bowl, then stir in the three dry ingredients—bran, brown and white flour. Add the baking powder last of all. Put into two moderately deep baking tins and cook for about forty.minutes in a moderate oven.