Fashion and Things Feminine.

Hawke's Bay Tribune, Volume II, Issue 106, 20 April 1912, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By

IDA MELLER.

(Copyright.

THE SKIRT AND BLOUSE DRESS

The threat that crinolines are coming in again has caused some little anxiety in feminine minds, as to how this new fashion will be accepted and worn. But as a matter of fact, there is no need to worry over the point. The modern crinoline will have little in common with its predecessor, and, so far as it has made its appearance in the show-rooms of the originators of dress-fashions, consists chiefly of a soft, pliable cane or steel, inserted in the hem of a skirt or petticoat to prevent the latter from clinging to the feet after the manner of the hobble skirt.

It has been a foregone conclusion for a season past that the next change of fashion would be in favour of wider skirts, but it is hardly likely that the change will be such a drastic one as to take us straight away to the pronounced crinoline without passing through an intermediate stage of dress-fashions en route.

Moreover, crinoline effects will concern only indoor gowns for the present, since the season of soft, thin fabrics, such as tussore, shantung, muslin, ■ silk voile, and so on, for outdoor wear is no longer with us.

The crinoline and tailor-mades are scarcely harmonious, and we may rest content, therefore, that autumn and winter skirts of iserge, cloth, frieze and tweed will remain as they are, though showing, possibly, as the season advances, a more pronounced leaning towards pleats. The new skirts are comfortably wide round the foot, though they still hang fairly straight. Corselet waists are much favoured for blouse-skirts, and many of these are made to suggest double skirts. Our illustration shows a well-cut doubleskirt of face-cloth, worn with a smart blouse of striped silk, with a vest of the cloth. This works out well in bis-cuit-coloured cloth, with one-piece blouse of striped biscuit and brown silk; or, again, in navy-blue, with silk striped in navy and paler blue; while, of course, the skirt lends itself well-to reproduction in black face-cloth, the blouse being of black and white or china-blue and white silk. The buttons used might be of gun-metal, cloth, or silk. Above the waist-coat is a small chemisette with collar-band of lace. Short under-sleeves of lace to match could, of course, he added to the costume. For the skirt about three yards of 46-inch cloth are required, and for the blouse three va’ds of single-width silk. FASHIONS IN FURS. Once more the time has conic to seriously consider the question of furs, for experience has taught one that it is advisable to be prepared for a sudden change of temperature before the change actually occurs, and one of the most useful little wraps for autumn wear is the fur boa or stole.

Feather stole s are also invaluable in this season, and it is certain that marabout and coque feathers will be much worn, marabout playing an important part in connection with shoulder-scarves of satin and velvet, which it frames in admirable fashion. The stole entirely of marabout is also a favourite, and being quite inexpensive meets the needs of a great many women.

The furs that lead the way this season are again of the flat kind, sealskin and sleek black fox being very much in evidence, and mole dyed sable promising to have a great vogue later on. Among the bushy furs, bear occupies an honoured place, and various furs got up to resemble sable and mink are at the disposal of those who cannot afford the genuine thing. And really the “imitation” fur is now so good to look at that it offers ample compensation for an inability to procure real, costly furs. More becoming than the plain, straight stole is the shaped one that is double-width over the shoulders, two skins being used thereabouts. The stole

ends need not necessarily be very long —in fact, the more fashionable stoles are shorter than formerly, and the question of -length is really immaterial. What does matter is that the stole shall be wide and soft,- and that fur

muffs shall be large and limp. Some of these latter are made with big squares ■of fur just thrown over a padded foundation.

Our sketch shows one of the new fur setg developed in seal coney, but imagination can readily picture the same design being carried out in sealplush or velvet. The chief feature of the stole is the sailor collar at the back, a suggestion of which is gathered from the sketch. The ends are finished with chenille fringe, and the monster milff is also fringed. The large mushroom hat worn is treated in the new way, namely, with velvet ribbon along th’e brim. The hat is of light felt lined with velvet, and heightened by wide ribbon velvet loops. To make the stole and muff of 22 inch seal plush or velvet, 5 yards will be needed.