Fashion and Things Feminine.

Hawke's Bay Tribune, Volume I, Issue 144, 3 June 1911, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By II

IDA MELLER.

(Copyright.

VELVETEEN TAILOR-MADES. The evolution of the tailor-inuuu might form the subject of an interesting little treatise, for, in truth,- ttie modern <oat and skirt costume at its best has little in common with the costume chat pionee:e:l what has proved to be the most popular form of dress of the day. Originally simple and severe in character, the tailor-made coat and skirt costume has developed into an ornate article of the feminine wardrobe, and is no longer content to lely solely on cloth, even shdjving off the beauties of silk, satin, velvet and velveteen.

This being the season of velvet m particular, it follows that advantage is taken of the occasion to introduce among winter fashions for out-of-doors many charming things in the way of tailored velvet costumes, black takirig precedence of colours. Those who cannot afford rich velvet mav very well be content with the excellent velveteens that are obtainable at under two shillings the yard, and if these are touched up with dark fur the effect is really splendid. The fur need not be made up with the suit, but merely allied to it in the form of a muff and stole.

Wide silk braid is used with great success on a large number of velvet costumes, appearing sometimes in a five-inch width at the bottom of a half-length or three-quarter coat, placed only round the sides, the back panel being devoid of braid but showing a few rich-looking braid buttons. Collars to velvet coats are of the roll type and faced witli moire or satin; but fashionable also is the simple velvet coat cut collarless and relieved with a small lace collar. The black velveteen suit illustrated is distinguished for quiet simplicity and excel:nt lims. Tr.e tk’rt is absolutely plain, and the ooat has no ornament whatever beyond two "wheels” of black sill: cord connected with little liars of tlie same, that fasten the fronts. Tlie roll-collar and cuffs are faced with black ®atin. The skirt should be lined with soft linette. silkette, or some such substance, and the coat with satin. To make the suit, 10 yards of velveteen aye required. The quality chosen should b? a good one.

A .MORNING SHIRT. Just as the coat and skirt costumo reigns supreme in fashion’s realm, so, too, does the blouse flourish and hold its own among newer styles. The princess dress, though it may have threatened to extinguish the' blouse for s. time, has really had little effect in rendering the blouse less popular, ana it still remains among the indisjiens-i-bles of a woman’s wardrobe. A large number of blouses for the new season are of satin-cloth and cashmere; ana <• stout, double quality of Japanese crepe de chene ranks high too in the regard >?: fashion-makers for the making of blouses and soft qualities of satin are delighted in for the same purpose apd chosen with good effect for kimono blouseS.

For morning shirts there are countless pretty fancy flannels from which to make a choice, striped effects being considered very, smart, the stripes varying in width from mere pin lines to

three-quarters of an inch. A shirt generally sets better when cut with a yoke, and for this reason, no doubt, many of the new-season’s shirts are supplied with yokes of various shaps raid s zes.

The .morning shirt sketched is suitable for any of the new flannel materials. and is made with a new American yoke that sets particularly well. To this the shirt-fronts are pleated, and in the centre of the shirt is a- moderately wide box-pleat studded with large buttons, the actual fastening of the shirt taking place beneath the pleat. The back of th? shirt is also pleated, and th? sleeves are drawn into cuffbands at the wrists. The quantity of 27—30 inch material required is three yards.