Fashion and Chinas Feminine.

Hawke's Bay Tribune, Volume I, Issue 120, 6 May 1911, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Chinas Feminine.

By

IDA MELLER.

(Copyright.

WARM OVER-COATS. Although good furs grow dearer and dearer every year and are prohibitive to al! but the rich, the skill of the furrier in dressing and clipping furs and of the dyer in giving to the cheaper furs the’hue of rare sable or similar costly I'ic'lts, annually improves and puts within the reach of the average purse the po'sess’on of i eally good-looking fur sets, or coats, that appear to be worth '•ons’derably more than they cost and give excellent wear. A fur coat is one of the most useful posses-ions for the winter months, being miliarmed by rain, giving the maximum of warmth, and possessing a certain richness of appearance beyond that ef a cloth coat. If furs are carefully worn and put away they warrant their cost over and over again. The cloth, coat with fur collar is also <i good friend in winter, the collar being of the adaptable type that turns np high to the ears or roljp over at will. An old fur coat, from which good wear has been obtained, may be cut up to advantage for the purpose of forming a deep collar ami pair of cuffs to a winter emit of cloth or frieze. The over-coat of frieze, again, with roll-fronts faced with their own material, is a very use-

fcl wrap for those who are out and about -i. good deal. In choosing a wrap of the sort a light-weight material is important. Serge, too, in navy-blue, makes up well for winter over-coats, tho waists belted with black patent leather. For the busines girl, one of the most useful wraps is a long ulster of knapcloth, thick serge, box-cloth, or some such material and a simple design for tho mailing up of such a coat is suggested in out; sketch. ‘lllis over-coat might be carried out in any of the materials named, or in lambswool, and useful colours for the purpose would b? navy-blue, brown,’ or green. The coat is double-breasted, and fastens with' targe buttons of smoke-pearl or imitation tr.rtoise-shell, and is provided with a large pocket on. the right hip. The bodice and sleeves should be lined, hut tho skirt of the coat requires no lining. The quantity of material needed is about five vards of double-width Ltllff. ABOUT BLOUSES AND HATS. A’arious editions of the popular onepiece blouse have made their apearance, :.hd dressmakers are trying to invent a indans of doing away with the rather ■ mbe.roming fulness that is apt to occur in the region of the under-arms and affords a grievance, often urged, against this otherwise pretty blouse. The bagginess near the arms is less noticeable when the blouse is gathered nt the neck and again at the waist, and very pretty is a model made-in this wav and composed of mignonette-green cashmere, with a band of silk to match holding the fulness at the. top—the neck itself cut low and round and showing above it a glimpse of ecru net. of i’ Inch the under-sleeves are made. The short upper sleeves of cashmere are bordered with mignonette silk in harmony with tho neck-band, and the latter, it should be added, is cut with two stoleends in front.

A little ruse adopted successfully by clever dressmakers in their endeavour to render the one-piece blouse more be-

coming to the figure, is to make a few small tucks on the inner side of each sleeve, near the top. This holds the fulness in place and gives shapeliness to rhe blouse, lifting the material just where it requires support. Nothing so simple as the one-piece blouse has surely ever before? sounded ’ the tip-top note of fashion. The present trend of modes, however, favours the plainer side of dress, and is concerned chiefly with “line” and keeping the silhouette sharp and clearly defined. At the same time, we live in a period of beautiful embroideries, and many a trimmed dress, though seemingly simple, boasts costly hand-work that renders the toilette possible only to those with well-filled purses. Now' a word , about hats. _ T'ley are voi’ii lower than ever over‘the forehead. and from a profile point of view the exes are completely concealed. Crowns are high and of the well-known “jam-pot” or ‘'chimney-pot” type, honn'l round with wide ribbon or piece silk, arranged in a huge bow at the “'ft 'idi. The hat illustrated is typical of this new and popular vogue. It is of bine felt trimmed with silk to match and is a good style for hardy, everyday wear. Very smart, too,’ are the, hats of similar shape made of black velvet, witli a feather-spray starting from the front and held by' a bow o 7 gold tmsel riboon.