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GARDENING NOTES

(By “Salvia.”)

SPRAYING POTATOES. One of the chief pests with which potato growers have to contend, ■especially is the season its wet, is the fungus of the potato blight (phytoph-t-hora intestans), which xs rnoi'o commonly known as Irish blight. This disease, winch rapidly increases when the weather is hot and the atmosphere humid, becomes exceptionally severe during seasons of excessive rainfall. Efficient spraying with Bordeaux- mixture Will keep the pest udder cbnti’ol and spraying should not be neglected even though the disease is not apparent; -for the- rule-■ prevention is better than cure' was never so applicable. Another feature of spraying which should not be overlooked is that tests made by various growers have conclusively proved that the crop is considerably improved, both in quantity and quality, by judicious spraying. Spraying should be carried out at intervals of about 10 days, and, if possible, a fine still day should be chosen. The best time for spraying is in the evening after the heat of the day has passed, and as fine a spray as possible should be used. Spray well on both sides of the rows to ensure that thq foliage is properly covered, as it- is not the quantity used but the manner in which the spraying is done which tells the tale.

The best method for making Bordeaux mixture in small quantities is to purchase the prepared Bordeaux powder, which can be obtained from any seedsman, and which needs only the addition of water to be ready for use. Use one pound of the powder to each 10 gallons of water. Oare must be taken to see that the solution is properly mixed, and the be6t way to ensure this is, after thoroughly stirring, to put the nozzle end of the sprayer into the mixture and _ pump vigorously for a short time. This mixture should also be used for tomatoes to prevent attacks of black rot and onions and celery for rust. Immediately after use cleanse the sprayer thoroughly by putting through it three or four gallons of clean water.

LETTUCES. In the springtime sunshine is very necessary for salad plants such as lettuces and radishes, in order that they may grow more quickly. Later on in the year when the sun becomes more powerful they should be grown in a partially shaded position. Lettuces become very* limp when they are exposed to the full sunshine; having soft leaves the moisture is rapidly evaporated from them. Under such conditions they usually run to seed quickly and are not firm and crisp. From the end of November until April lettuces should be sown where they are to grow, as they do not transplant well in dry weather. The soil for lettuces should always be deeply dug and, if possible, plenty of well-decayed manure or vegetable refuse mixed with it. Dry powdered poultry manure is suitable, but must be used sparingly and kept below the top three inches of soil. It is best to grow lettuces in shallow trenches, so that they may receive the benefit of any rain that may fall and to enable plenty of water to be applied when necessary. Liquid l manure in the form of nitrate of soda should he applied as soon as the plants begin to form hearts. Use a level tablespoonful to ope gallon of water, and give each plant about one pint. This must only be applied when the soil is in a. moist condition and must not touch the leaves.

Radishes should he grown under similar conditions. Sow the seeds thinly-; as a rule they are sown far too thickly, with the result that they run to top in the struggle for existence. Sow half an inch deep and one inch apart; thin out the small varieties to two inches and long kinds to three inches apart.

LATE PEAS. From now on peas should he sown in shallow trenches; -iif sown on the fiat the plants become dried up too quickly should dry weather be experienced. Fresh manure is not advisable for m.se in the trenches, though -welldeonyed manure is 'beneficial; failing this use any well-decayed vegetable refuse, or apply a mixture of equal parts of superphosphate and potash at the rate of fouir ounces* -per square yard. Mix well with the soil for about nine inches below the surface; it must ndt come into contact with the seeds. Peas must have plentiful supplies of water in dry weather; give sufficient to thoroughly saturate the top 21 inches of soil. If a mulch of lawn clippings be applied for a distance of a foot or so on either side of the rows it will save much labour in applying water by preventing evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Pea, mildew often attacks the plants in late summer and autumn, first turning the leaves to a. yellow tint, and then coating them with a white “bloom which gives the plants the appearance of having been dusted with a., white powder. The remedy ,i.s to dust the plants with finely powdered sulphur as sunn as the disease is observed. This should be done when the foliago is net with dew or rain.

ONIONS. Onions that are commencing to farm Ibiulbs should receive an application of nitrate of soda, in solution. Use one ounce per gallon of water and apply two doses at intervals of four weeks. Keep the plants free from weeds, but deep hoeing, so beneficial to most garden crops, must be avoided with this vegetable; ais the object is to keep the soil solid so that the hul'hs will" enlarge on the surface bettor than when surrounded with loose soil. FLOWER. GARDEN. Dahlias and chrysanthemums should he planted out and all classes of bedding plants. Where seeds have been sown the seedlings should be thinned out before they become overcrowded. Aphides (green fly) is usually troublesome on roses at this time of the year; the best remedy is “Black Leaf 40,” which may be purchased at any seed store. Use one teaspoouful to each gallon of water,, first adding sufficient soap to the water to make strong

rambling and climbing roses and some varieties of the dwarl kinds. As soon as the characteristic wiiite appearance of the leaves is seen dust some finely powdered sulphur over them when wet with dew or rain. If not taken in hand promptly the disease not only seriously damages the affected plants, but spreads very quickly. All faded flowers should be removed from plants that are flowering to prevent seed formation. As soon as seeds form the plants either cease to flower or the flowers produced are of poor quality. In dry districts where it is not,possible to water plants the beds should be mulched with manure, grass cuttings, or leaves. WORK FOR THE WEEK. Examine roows frequently for greenfly land caterpillar and spray with •‘Black-leaf 40’’ solution if necessary. Thin out overcrowded shoots and .those pointing inwards, six to eight- good shoots are quite .sufficient if good quality blooms are desired. App>y a weak solution of liquid manure once a week. . Plant runners of violets in well manured soil in a situation shaded from hot sun in summer. Plant one foot apart in rows eighteen inches apart. Make the soil firm and give copious supplies of water during the dry weather. ' Divide polyanthus and primrose plants after they have finished flowering. They require the same cultural treatment advised above for violets. Plant out tuberous begonias. Remove flowers from azalea and rhododendron bushes to prevent formation of seed pods, which are a serious drain on the vitality of the plants.

Plant gladioli bulbs for a succession of bloom, six inches deep in rich soil and a sunny position. Plant out chrysanthemums, and dust with fine sulphur qis a precaution against “rust.” Sow sweet peas for late. flowering. Stake lilies and tall flowering plants. Plant, out dahlia roots and rooteu cuttings of dahlias. Sow the long-rooted variety of hoet root for winter use and a small quantity of the turnip-rooted variety n r intervals for succession and use while young and tender. Sow broad beans and peas for sm cession. Sow all classes of dwarf and runner beans. Sow sweet corn. Sow leeks for succession. Sow broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, and Savov eaimage for use in wintet. Sow the seeds thinly and thin out f two inches a-oart as soon , as the seedlings can be handled. Sow salsify. Sow cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, •and squashes. Sow radishes in rich, firm soil, and keep well watered. Sow broadcast and thin out to two inches apart. Sow turnips for succession Sow lettuce and spinach in partly shaded positions from now on, as these vegetables do not do well when exposed to hot sunshine. Sow sugar (edible podded) peas. Sow mustard and cress for use m . salads. I Sow garden swecle. 1 Sow celery in prepared trenches nuninches deep, one foot wide for single l rows, eighteen inches wide for double rows. Plant nine inches apart anci shade till established. Give plenty oi water in dry weather. Sow celeriae (turnip-rooted celery). Pinch out the tops of broadbeans ,u flower to accelerate the production o. pods. Plant tomato plants in a isunny sheltered position in soil free from fresh animal manure. Plant eighteen inches apart and' keep to a single stem by pinching out all side shoots, which appear at the junction of leaves and stem. Place a stake to each plant and keep the plant tied up as at advances in growth. Spray tomato and potato plants once •a. fortnight with Bordeaux solution (lib Bordeaux powder to 10 gallons of water) to prevent fungoid diseases. Draw some earth un round the steins of cabbage and cauliflower, and give each plant a pint of nitrate of soda solution (one level tablespoon of nitrate to 10 gallons water) once a. week. Place some straw-round strawberry plants to keep the soil cool and moist and to prevent rain splashing dirt on the berries. Spray peach and nectarine trees affected with leaf-curl with Bordeaux solution (one pound Bordeaux powder -to 10 gallons water). Keep solution stirred occasionally while spraying.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/HAWST19331110.2.81

Bibliographic details

Hawera Star, Volume LIII, 10 November 1933, Page 8

Word Count
1,688

GARDENING NOTES Hawera Star, Volume LIII, 10 November 1933, Page 8

GARDENING NOTES Hawera Star, Volume LIII, 10 November 1933, Page 8

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