GARDENING NOTES.

Hawera Star, Volume XLVI, 2 July 1926, Page 6

GARDENING NOTES.

(By “Waratah.”)

PRUNING FRUIT TREES. j The Apple.—ln pruning apple trees, j the ace of the tree must be taken into consideration. Two-vear-old trees should be pruned as advised m last week s notes. The pruning of thrce-yeai-old trees should be less severe, if they have made long strong shoots, these should be pruned back to nine or twelve inches, according to strength; any weak shoots should be cut back to three or tour eyes. To secure au even growth and a wellbalanced tree judgment must be used in pruning the different main shoots or leader., 8 according .0 sine. The >{.«• pericnced pruner usually cuts long shoots hard back, and either docs not prune weak shoots or prunes them lightly, thinking that by cutting the shoots to a level height, the growth till be more even in the ensuing season but this is an erroneous idea. For instance, if a strong shoot be cut back to about three inches and a weak shoot to the same length the result would be that the strong shoot having only the same number of buds, and a much larger supply of sap, would send up very much stronger shoots, quite out of proportion to the weaker snoot, thus causing an unbalanced tree. The principle to be carried out in the formation ot youngtrees is to encourage a well-balanced growth, not as is often seen, strong limbs on one side of the tree and weak growth on tire other. Pruning in the fourth, year should be the same as in the third year; from the fifth year onward hard pruning will not be necessary. When the leading shoots are left long they become very fruitful and in consequence do not make much growth. With aged, trees very little pruning is required, only an occasional thinning to keep the trees open and from becoming overcrowded. The laterals (side shoots) and sub-laterals should be pruned back to from two to four buds according to strength, and where they are overcrowded some of the older ones should be cut clean out. The Pear. —The same system of pruning should be carried out with the pear for the first two or three seasons as with the apple, but from the third season onwards pruning must be done with care, as pears when hard pruned make rank strong growth which is not fruitful. The leading shoots should be shortened back a few inches anil thinned by cutting clean out if overcrowded. Laterals or side-shoots should be pruned back to three or four eyes. When the trees have attained a fair size and good shape very little pruning will be necessary. Spur-pruning. —This is necessary in the case of old trees carrying a large number of old spurs. A heavilyspurred tree will have a large number of blossoms. Young fruits will form and later many will fall, leaving a comparatively light crop. The flowers on most apple and pear trees appear before the leaves, and the tree cannot use the food it takes up from the soil until it has passed through the leaves. The food that is used to build up the flowers is stored within the tree itself. The more spurs there arc the more flowers are produced, and with the heavy drain on the plant food each individual flower receives less. With a moderate quantity of flowers each flower not only receives a larger share of the stored food, but the new food from the leaves is available sooner, as the leaves arc formed earlier than when there is a large number of flowers. A moderate bloom is much more dependable than a licavy blom, particularly if the weather conditions are not favourable to fruit setting. To obtain a moderate bloom when there is an abundance of spurs the number of spurs must be reduced. The best results are obtained by taking the spurs off fairly even over the whole surface —not from one part of the tree. Old multiple spurs should 1m removed entirely. Next reduce all the spurs to single horns—an occasional double here and there may lie left. Long laterals should be reduced to one or two good plump spurs. ,Spur-pruning should be practised on all trees that have shown a plentiful supply of bloom in the past and on which only light crops have matured. If thoroughly done, it will .not be necessary to do the work again for two or three years, as it takes that time for the tree to again develop into a too-heavily spurred condition. Though this treatment is specially necessary for pear trees, it is also desirable with some varieties of apples.

The Plum. —The plum usually tends to make long and slender shoots in its early years, and it is necessary to prune hard witil the third season to secure sloui. main and secondary arms. From this time onwards the plum should not be hard pruned as soon as a good framework is secured, as hard pruning causes them to make rank unfruitful growth, and is also considered by many to be the cause of silver, blight attacking the trees. To secure a well-balanced tree weak shoots should be pruned hard and strong shoots lightly; if several strong growths appear too close, remove the superfluous ones by cutting them clean out from the base of the growth. The fruit is produced on spurs on the year-old shoots, and ‘also on older branches. These spurs are small, consisting of a few blunt buds borne closely together. Wood buds are pointed and set further apart on the shoots. >Shoots that have no fruit buds should be thinned out by cutting away the weakest anil any that are misplaced or overcrowded. Long shoots carrying fruit bulls should be shortenoi 1 back or they will be broken oil - by the weight of 'fruit.

In pruning all classes of trees always be careful to prune above a bud; the bottom of the cut should be in a line with the bud; if the cut starts below the bud, the bud will be robbed of some of flie supply of sap, and also the future growth may snap oil in rough weather, or even by its own weight, through not having' suhieient support. On the other liana, do not cut too far above the bud or midway between two buds, leaving what is known as a “snag,” i.e., a dead piece of wood which eventually decays and becomes a favourable breeding ground for insect pests and fungoid diseases. Other varieties of fruit trees will be dealt with in next week’s notes. ROUTINE WORK. Plant shelter trees, hedge plants, shrubs and roses when the soil is in a suitable condition for planting. Never plant -when the soil is very wet or sticky. Plant garlic, shallots, tree and potato onions. Plant rhubarb roots four feet apart in well-trenched and manured soil. Prune fruit trees and spray for insect pests and fungoid diseases, using winter strength. Prune and clean grape vines. Place early varieties of seed potatoes, crown end upwards and close together, in shallow boxes to sprout in readiness for planting later on. Place the boxes where they will receive ns much light as possible to keep the sprouts sturdy.

STOPS TOOTHACHE FROM THE FIRST STAR. An aching tooth is a sign that the nerve is affected—unhealthy. 11 is no longer any use. to the tooth, and will only give agonising pain until the tooth is extracted, filled, or the nerve killed —but why lose the tooth, why face the dentist’s chair, when a. drop or two of Br.rraiclough’s! Magic Nervine on a small pad of cotton woo! will quickly kill the pain. Toothache affects the whole nervous ssytem, and encourages nervous prostration—it leads to graver ills. Ston it! Use Barr a dough’s Magic Nervine and keep your nerves quiet, and efficient. Keep a bottle by you for emergencies. 1/6 at all chemists. 294