GARDENING NOTES.

Hawera Star, Volume XLVI, 21 May 1926, Page 6

GARDENING NOTES.

(By “Waratah.”)

PLANTING FRUIT TREES

It is of the utmost importance that the soil be. properly prepared before planting fruit trees. Large numbers or trees are planted every year in soil a hicli has not had the necessary preparation. with the result that the trees make stunted growth for two or three seasons, then gradually die. The soil should be dug two feet deep over the whole area to be planted if possible, or at least three feet in diameter for each tree. If a hole be dug only large enough to hold the roots of each tiee, and 'the surrounding soil is hard, the holes will fill with water in the lainy season, keeping the roots in a net, aid .state likely to destroy them; even f the roots are not damaged the wood will not ripen well, and the trees cannot produce good fruit. Pests and diseases of all kinds are more likely to attack trees growing under these conditions, and will be an everlasting source of annoyance. . Animal manure should not be dug in, because it causes rank growth to be made which will not be fruitful. If the soil be poor dig in a liberal quantity of bonedust. When the trees commence to bear fruit they can be supplied with suitable manures.

Before planting the trees remove all bruised or wounded roots with a .sharp knife. All long roots should also be removed. When the roots are long the fibres are found at the end. The function of these fibres is to gather the food and moisture in the soil and suplfly them to the trees. When the roots are long the fibres are limited in quantity. and the substance gathered by them has a long way to travel before reaching the branches. On the other hand, when the fibres are numerous ai*d close to the tree, the fibres have direct action. Trees with a mass of short fibrous roots are better balanced in sliaoe and produce more fruit spurs than those which have only a few long roots. When taking out the earth to plant the trees make the holes as wide at. the bottom as at the top- and of sufficient size to take the roots when spread straight out. The roots must never he twisted or doubled back. In planting set the tree so that the top roots will be just below the soil and only covered with a few inches of earth. Spread the roots out evenly, and when filling in the soil throw it in the same direction as they are running, never against them, as this ha.s a. 'tendency to double the roots hack. Firmly tread the soil round each tree, hut not if the soil is in a sodden condition. It is not advisable to plant when the soil is very wet. If the soil he not in a suitable condition for planting when the trees arrive they should be unpacked and a trench dug deep enough to take the roots. Cover the roots with enough soil to exclude the air and plant as soon a.s the soil is sufficiently dry. It is advisable when the site is exposed to strong winds to place a stake to each tree, so that it is held firmly in position until it has made .sufficient fresh roots to. hold jtself. Place the stake in the centre of the hole before planting and drive it firm. A piece of sacking should be placed round the tree where it is tied so that the string will not chafe the hark.

The distance, apart to plant depends upon the method of pruning and general culture. For a small garden where the soil is cultivated by hand labour, trees mav be planted closer than: in an orchard where horse labour is employed. Apple and pear trees qji dwarf stocks may be planted 10 feet apart, but stone fruits must- be given more room, as the habit of the trees is different; they should bei planted a.t least 15 feet apart. Close planting is not wise unless the grower wishes to grow as many trees as possible in a small area. AVhen the trees are crowded together it is difficult to carry out the necessary spraying, pruning and oiiltivntki! round the trees without doing some damage bv knocking off fruit spurs For orchard planting 20 feet i> a good distance apart to plant, an aeie will need 100 trees planted at this distance. The trees should be. planted in straight lines and at regular distances. Nothing is more unsightly than an orchard laid out with trees at irregular distances or in crooked lines. To secure uniformity. t;i© wiiole area, should be staked and marked out where eacii tree is to be planted. For this purpose cut sticks or pegs. Then procure a long line and tie. a piece of tape or other material at each twenty feet, or at such other distance along the line as it is intended to plant the trees. Stretch the line where it is intended to plant the first row, and drive in a stick or peg at each mark on the line. The line should next be. stretched at right angles and pegs driven in at the required distance as before, until the square or oblong, as the ease may be, •Is complete.

Cultivation of the soil in the orchard is of the greatest importance to the trees, especially during the first years ■of their growth. Young trees cannot succeed if the soil around them is not worked and kept free from grass and weeds. It is an advantage' to place a mulch of maiiur e for a, distance of three or four feet round each tree to conserve the moisture in the soil for the first season or two; this should he placed on in the spring. Crops may be grown between the trees, and the necessary working of these will keep the soil in good physical con* dition. The crop should not be grown nearer the stems than the height of the trees; thus if a tree be six feet high it should have a clean space of twelve feet in diameter to itself, and this space should lie kept perfectly oenn and thoroughly broken up to allow rains to penetrate, and also the air to gain admission. Keep the surface of the soil in a loose condition, both during summer and winter; such treatment will ensure healthy, clean growth, and also freedom from drought.

ft nil', Ikj necessary to cut back vonng trees, as the usual practise .is to send them out from t,he nurseries not pruned. Trees are usually two yaairs old when purchased, and generally have three or lour long shoots, which should he nruned to three or .four buds from the base. Always prune to a bud pointing in an outward direction. The object of this pruning is to make a sturclv framework for the tree, tS> enab'e it to bear a heavy weight ef fruit when it m of mature age, without damage hv breaking. If th© trees be three years old the shoots may he left longer, sav about nine inches if they are long and strong. Weaker ones should be pruned more severely, to encourage strong growth.

Selection of varieties.—lt is most important t.r> select varieties that are known to succeed in the district. Soil and locality have a great influence, on fruits, and a variety that may do well in one district may be useless in another. The following list comprises varieties which can be recommended for t’hn Taranaki soi| and climate. Apples.—Dessert: Adam’s Pearma.in, ’.ate: Cox’s. Orange Pippin, mid-season; Delicious mid-season; Jonathan, midseason; S'tnyman’s Winesap, late, good keeper"; Stunner Pippin, late, good keeper; Gravenstein, early. Dessert or cooking: Five Crown Pippin, late; OJiinemuri. late; Reinette du Canada, mid-season; Statesman, good keeper.

Cooking: Ballarat Seedling, late, good keeper; - Lord Suffield, mid-season, heavy cropper. Pears. —Louise Bonne of Jersey, midseason ; Williams’ Bon Chretien, autumn ; Winter Cole, late. Plums. —(Japanese) Burbank, dessert, red, with yellow flelh ; Ogon, yellow ; Sultan, deep crimson; (European) Damson, Pond’s Seedling, dark red; The Czar, purple; Magnum Boiium, yellow, late.

Peaches. Brigg’s Red May, early; Early Rivers, Shaw’s Favourite, Sea Eagle, late. Quince. — Van Dieman. I -e mo n. —Lisbon. KuUXINF, WORK. Plant shrubs, fruit trees, loses, and hedge plants. Lift and divide old rhubarb roots, plant four feet apart in well-manured Soil.

Earth up celery and eeks where necessary. Spray apple and pear trees with, a solution of red op as soon as the leaves have fallen to destroy woolly aphis, scale insects, moss, etc. Use one part red oi' ] , to 16 parts wafer. Spray plum, peach, apricot and nectarine trees with Bordeaux mixture, winter Milestone,- lOlbs fresh burnt lime to 40 gallons water) to kill the spores of fungoid diseases. Those who hav© no suitable wooden utensils to make the fresh Bordeaux mixture should use Bordeaux powder, 1 part to 5 paits of water, or lime-sul-phur solution 1 part to 10 parts of water.

Cut out old worn-out shoots of rambler roses and lay in new; shoots of their place. Sow broad beans. Sow an early dwarf variety of pea on a warm sheltered border.

Lift and divide overgrown plants of herbaceous perennials. Replant in well dug and manured soil in a new position.

Plant hardy seedling flowering plants.. Be careful not to over-water plants growing indoors. *