GARDENING NOTES.

Hawera Star, Volume XLV, 12 March 1926, Page 6

GARDENING NOTES.

(By “Waratah.”)

GROWING BULBS IN BOWLS. Bulbs may be successfully grown in bowls for room decoration, and it is an interesting method of growing them which appeals to those people who are fond of gardening but are confined to the house in winter. The polyanthus narcissi and jonquils will do well in bowls of rain-water with a layer of pebbles at the base to rest the bulbs on ■ and give the roots a hold so that the bulbs when in fiower do not fall out of the bowl. The water should just reach to the level of the pebbles. Keep the bowls in a dark cupboard until the leaver begin to shoot up, when they should be brought out to the light. Another method of growing bulbs m bowls is in fibre specially prepared for the purpose, which may be purchased at any seedsman’s. Any bulbs or vases that are fairly deep and roomy may be used; it is not neecssary to have holes in the bottom for drainage. The dry fibre should be well rubbed until quite free from lumps; then add water, a little at a time, and thoroughly mix. Only sufficient water should be added to make the fibre moist, so that if a handful is squeezed no water will drop out. Put a few pieces of charcoal in the bottom of each bowl or vase before putting in the fibre. Then put in from one to three inches of fibre according to the depth of the bowl. Place the bulbs on the fibre and fill up to within an inch of the rim. The bulbs should not be more than two inches below the surface. Do not pack the fibre too tightly or the roots will not work freely in it, and in tight fibre the bulbs have a tendency to push themselves upward. The bowls should be placed in a dark room or cellar until about one inch of top-growth has been made, when they should be brought into more light, but not exposed to sunlight until the foliage is green. As much air as possible should be given without subjecting the plants to draughts; if grown in an airless room the foliage is unnaturally weak and long, and the flowers are poor. After the bulbs have been placed in the fibre it will not be necessary to apply any water for two or three weeks, according to the temperature of the room in which the bowls are kept, but as soon as growth commences it is necessary to keep the fibre in a moist condition. ' When watering give enough to thoroughly moisten the whole of the fibre, and use rain-water if possible. The necessity for watering wifi be indicated by the 'fibre at the top becoming dry and light-brown in colour. Hyacinths may be grown in glasses made for the purpose. The glasses should be filled with clean water (rainwater if possible). Place a piece of charcoal in. each glass to keep the water sweet. The base of the bulb should at ail times just touch the water. Place the glasses in a cool, dark place to encourage root growth. When the glasses are nearly full of roots, bring into the light, but not too strong until the foliage has turned green. Then remove into the sunniest place until the flower spikes are well developed. Avoid a draughty position. The single hyacinth is the best kind to grow in glasses. With few exceptions the single hyacinths produce much finer spikes than the double. Most inexperienced gardeners assume the term double to refer to the size of the spike, whereas it refers to the individual flowers on the spike. ROCK MELONS. The ripening of rock melons is assisted by placing the fruit on a piece of wood, stone, or a small heap of fern —•_ anything to keep the fruits dry and off the moist earth. If the fruits are not protected by foliage, some straw or grass should be laid over each fruit to prevent the sun from scorching it. Do not give any water or liquid manure once the fruits have commenced to ripen. A sure sign of the ripening of a rock melon is when the stem begins to crack where it joins the fruit.' PUMPKINS AND MARROWS. Any pumpkins or marrows which it is intended to store for use in winter should be raised off the ground in the manner recommended above for rock melons. If this is not done the portion lying on the ground does not ripen and the pumpkins will not keep so well. ROUTINE WORK. Plant spring flowering bulbs. Sow seeds of hardy annuals for spring flowering. Sow sweet peas. Cut out old raspberry canes and tie up five or six of the strongest of the hew canes. Dig and store potatoes as soon as the tops have died down. Harvest onions. Burn all fallen fruit not fit for use. Keep chrysanthemum plants free from insect pests and. fungoid diseases. Apply liquid manure once a week until the buds show colour. Spray tomato plants and give them the attentions advised in previous notes. Clear away exhausted crops and destroy all weeds before they can ripen seed. Sow seeds of annual lupin on vacant ground to dig in as green manure. Sow broad beans, cabbage, cauliflower, carrot, cress, endive, lettuce, mustard, onion, parsley, radish, silver beet, spinach, turnip.