JUMPER-MAKING HINTS.
In joining wool, unravel for about live inches one or two strands of the ball of wool you are finishing, and do the same with the end of the new ball of wool. Twist these strands together and continue knitting. This will obviate the bulkiness caused by knitting with double wool.
Often, after finishing, the sleeves of a jumper will be a little short. This can easily be remedied by laying them flat, wrong side uppermost, and pressing them heavily with a hot iron and a very j damp cloth in the direction desired to J increase the length. This can also be i done when the jumper gives a rather flat or strained appearance across the j bust or hips. The dampness and heat j causes the wool to give, without showing any trace of stretching. All jumpers should be pressed, after finishing, on the wrong side, with a slightly damp cloth (not too damp, and do not stretch the garment). Seams should be well flattened by this means, and a well-finished appearance is attained. In all-plain knitted jumpers the first stitch should be slipped. This gives a knotted appearance at the edge S—one knot to each rib, (or two rows). The jumper does not drop at the sides when made up (as with the chain-stitch), and it. is easier to sew up, knot to knot. The chain-stitch leaves holes. Wheh stocking stitch (one row plain, one row purl) is used, the knotted effect is attained: (a) In the plain row, by inserting the needle as for purl slipping, putting, the wool round to back, and continuing knitting; (b) In the purl row, inserting the needle as for plain, slipping, putting the wool round to the front, and continue purling. In casting-ofi: jumpers, it is better to do so on the wrong side, so that the chain-stitch comes also on the wrong side. To have the purled edge on the right side is neater and less amateurish in appearance than if it is on the wrong side.
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Hawera Star, Volume XLV, 6 March 1926, Page 17
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340JUMPER-MAKING HINTS. Hawera Star, Volume XLV, 6 March 1926, Page 17
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