GARDENING NOTES.

Hawera Star, Volume XLVIII, 21 November 1924, Page 6

GARDENING NOTES.

——♦ FLOWER GARDEN. (By Waratah.) Current Work.—During the past few days some welcome and refreshing showers of rain have fallen, but there has not been sufficient to penetrate below. the surface soil. It will therefore be necessary to supply water to recent-ly-planted trees, shrubs, and seedlings, unless a heavy fall of rain is experienced before these notes appear in print. Any seedlings planted out while the soil is in a dry condition should be “puddled” in. The best method of doing this is to first make'the holes in the soil ready to receive; the young plants, fill them with water, and put the plants in as soon as the water has drained away. If it is possible to do so, the plants should be shaded from .hot sunshine for a few days by placing ■ cuttings of evergreens among theta in such a manner as to ; afford them shade, or pieces of scrim or calico supported pri sticks will answer the purpose admirably. These little attentions are well worth the trouble, involved, as the plants recover so much more rapidly from the check of transplanting. Remove the seed pods from azalea and rhododendron bushes as soon as they forrn. Take care that the plants do not suffer from want of water at any time, as they are mcisture-io.ving plants. 'A mulch of well-rotted manure or leaf mould a few inches thick placed on the surface of the soil about them will be of great benefit by supplying a little extra nutriment and keeping the soil in a moist condition. The roots are very near the surface and easy affected by conditions of drought. A spade should never he ’ used near azaleas or rhodendrons; if it is necessary to loosen the soil to remove weeds or to aerate it, use a hoe or digging fork, and do no disturb more than the top two inches of soil. Polyanthi and primroses may be lifted and divided as soon as they h ave finished flowering. Break the plants up carefully so that each piece has plenty of roots attached. These subjects prefer a, rich soil and a position shaded from the sun during the. hottest portion of the day and require plenty of water in dry weather. Plant out dahlia roots and rooted cuttings of dahlias Chrysanthemums may still be- planted. Sow hardy and half-hardv annuals for succession. Sweet peas may still be sown foliate flowering. Sow such biennials as Canterbury bells, sweet Williams, wallflowers, etc., in drills 9in. apart in a prepared seed bed. Shade the bed from sun during the hottest portion of the day. Plant gladioli bulbs for a succession of bloom in rich soil and a sunny position. Plant 6in. deep. Plant out tuberous begonias. Roses should he examined carefully and regularly for greenfly and mildew, both of which are very prevalent this season. Stake and tie up all tall plants as they advance in growth and keep climbing plants tied or nailed up to their supports. Hoe the beds and borders frequently to keep down the weeds and retard evaporation. Remove all faded flowers from plants. This will prolong the flowering period. If seeds are allowed tp form the plant will devote most of its energy to seed production, and the flowering period will be curtailed. VEGETABLE GARDEN.

Salsify.—This is a delicious vegetable, sometimes known as the vegetable oyster. It is a tap-rooted plant, resembling the parsnip in appearance, though not so large in circumference. Now is a suitable time to sow tjie seeds of salsify in drills one inch deep and 15 inches apart ; put four or five seeds together at places nine inches apart. As soon as the seedlings can be handled thin them out to the strongest one at each place. The soil in which they are to grow should be free from fresh animal manure, or the roots will fork hqdly. The roots are ready for use in winter, and may he dug as required or lifted and stored in sand or soil. The flavoqr of this vegetable is best preserved by stemming, or it may be parboiled and then cut in slices and fried in olive oil or butter. If boiled hard or for too long a time the flavour is boiled out. Those who have riot grown this vegetable hitherto should give it a trial. '

Beetroot of the long variety may he sown now for winter use. Sow - the turnip-rooted variety at intervals of three weeks in small quantities, and use while young. When beetroots are a long time growing the flesh is hard and fibrous and the flavour not so delicate.

Sow broad beans for succession. Pinch out the tops of those in flower as as they are two feet in height. This will accelerate the production of the beans.

Sow peas for succession. Sow in trenches three inches deep to facilitate watering when necessary. Pinch out the growing points of peas when cohered in bloom to hasten the production of pods, into which the strength of the plant will he thrown as soon as the upward growth is checked. When sowing spinach or lettuces choose a partly shaded position, as these plants feel the heat of the sun to their disadvantage. Sow broccoli. Brussels sprouts, kale and Savoy cabbage for use in winter; sow the seeds thinly, and thin out the seedlings to two inches apart as soon as they can be handled.

Sow Succession or S ( t. John’s Day for late summer and autumn use. These two varieties resist blight and droughty conditions better than other varieties.

Rhubarb pi ay still he sown. Sow dwarf French and butter beans for succession. Sow sweet corn. Sow cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and squashes. ;Sow leeks for succession. Salsify may now be sown. »Sow radishes in rich, firm soil and Keep well watered. Sow broadcast and thm out to two inches apart. Sow turnips for succession. Garden swede should; now he sown. Plant out celery in prepared trenches mne_ inches deep, one foot wide for single rows, IS inches wide for double rows. Plant nine inches apart, and shade till established. Keen the plants well watered in dry weather. Runner beans may still he sown.