GARDENING NOTES.

Hawera Star, Volume XLVIII, 7 November 1924, Page 6

GARDENING NOTES.

(By "VVaratah). FLOWER GARDEN. Pruning Flowering Shrubs. Considerable damage is orten committed by pruning flowering shvubs at the wrong time ox the year. Often shrubs which flower m spring and early summer are pruned in winter, and much of the wood which would flower the following season is sacrificed to no good purpose Such flowers as weigelias, cieut-zias, spiraes, forsythias, lilacs, flowering currants, hpneysuckles, philadelphus, etc., should be pruned as soon as they have finished flowering, ..ivlien the branches that have borne flowers and any weakly-growing or dead wood may be cut hard back. This treatment will cause dormant buds to break into growth and strong and vigorous shoots, which will bear the flowers in due time next season. Rhododendrons, camellias, aiidiomedas, ,azaleas and kalmias should only have 'weak or superfluous weed removed after flowering, if they have become overgrown and require cutting hard back it should be done late in winter just before the sap starts to ascend. All seed pools should be removed from these shrubs, and they must not be allowed to suffer from drought during the summer months. It should also be borne in mind that- they, with Ericas (Heaths} are seriously injured * and sometimes killed if lime is used in any large quantity'on the soil in which their roots are situated. The pruning of buddleas, hydrangeas and ceanothus should be left until the .winter, when , they may be cut hard back. Sow hardy annuals and' biennials, such as Canterbury Bells, Brampton Stock, Wallflowers, etc., in seed beds, and by the autumn they will be strong plants to put out where they are to flower.

Sow half-hardy annuals in warm, sheltered positions. Sow sweet peas for late flowering. Plant out rooted runners of violets 9in. apart in rich, firm soil; rows to be 12in. apart. Train and tie up climbing plants where necessary. Roll lawns frequently after rain has fallen. Stake carnations and other plants needing support before they begin to fall about. Keep the surface soil of beds and borders frequently stirred when in a suitable condition, to keep down weeds and retard evaporation. Plant gladioli bulbs 6,in. deep in rich soil in a sunny position. , VEGETABLE GARDEN. Brussels Sprouts.—This is without doubt one of the finest of the winter vegetables, and is valuable not only because of its delicious-flavour, but-.for the length of time it yields a crop. It is therefore very suitable for small gardens in which there is not room to grow .many broccoli or other winter vegetables which require a good deal of space for their development. The seeds should be sown thinly, so that the plants will be sturdy; if the seedlings are overcrowded the plants will be drawn and_ spindly and will not be a success. When the plants are large enough to put out allow a space of two feet between each and 2ft 6in. between the rows. The soil should not be over-rich, and must be made very firm to produce solid sprouts. In late autumn when the lower leaves decay the dead foliage* should be removed, as it smells objectionable and encourages dampness and decay. A good plantation of Brussels sprouts will yield for three or four months, and after all the sprouts are picked ~ the cabbage-like top (which must not be cut until then) may be; used. Sow sweet corn 2in. deep in drills 4tt. apart; thin seedlings out to 10in. Use the space between the drills to grow lettuces, spinach, cucumbers or pumpkins, wh ch will benefit by tke shade provided by the corn plants during hot, sunny days. Pinch out the top of broad beans when over two. feet in height. These Sjjjf £f y f be { :Sed as a vegetable, and vuli be found very palatable. Sow Mie beans »again for succession where necessary. Sow pea® for succession. Sow in shallow trenches, which will facilitate watering m dry weather. If not done make a sowing of winter vegetables 'such as leeks, broccoli savoy cabbage, Brussels sprouts and • I l ot ‘ ha T e an €Ta Pty garden in the winter when vegetables are very scarce-and dear. The average amateur gardener has more vegetables in summer than can be used, but tails to make provision for the winter months. “ - Plant celery in trenches 9 inches deep. Work in decayed manure or garden refuse in the soil at bottom of trench, trenches to be one foot wide tor single rows or 18in wide for double rows; plants to be 9in apart. Sow- runner beans and French and butter beans for succession. Sow' beetroot, carrots and turnips tor succession. Parsley may still be sown. Sow Parsnips in ground free from fresh manure. bow cucumbers, melons, pumpkins and squashes. Protect young plants on cold nights. Sow' spinach for succession in a position shaded from sun after mid-dav. Sow' rhubarb £in deep in drills 18in apart. Thin out seedlings to 15in apart. Sow cabbage for ’succe-seion. St. John’s Day or Succession are the best for summer use. They are blightresisting kinds and stand up to dry weather well. Sow radishes, lettuces, mustard and cress at frequent intervals for use as saladings. Onions may still be sown for winter use. FRUIT TREES. The codlin moth. —Those who have any apple or pear trees will find it necessary to spray them with a solution of arsenate of lead to prevent the fruit being damaged by the caterpillars of the codlin moth, which is very prevalent in the Taranaki district-, anti if the fruit is not kept covered with the poison most of it will be lost. The larva or grub of the codlin moth hibernates under the protection of -a web during the winter, usually in the rough bark of a tree or in the 6oil under the fruit- trees, and about the time the petals of the blossoms fall the .grub® change to the moth stage. The moths mate, and each female lays about- fifty eggs on the fruit c-r foliage of the apple or pear trees. The eggs develop into caterpillars within ten days and eat their way into the fruit. They become full growm in about three weeks, ©at their w J a-y out of the fruit, pass through the pupa or chrysalis stage, and in turn become moths, which deposit eggs and produce another generation of caterpillars. The first spraying is the most important one and should be done as soon as the fruit blossom has fallen. Arsenate of lead may be purchased in pow r der or paste form ready for use when mixed with water. The writer prefers “Swift’s” arsenate of lead paste, as he lias found it resists the action of

j rain better than other brands. It is sold in lib jars—lib of paste makes 25 gallons of solution, or if only a small quantity is needed use two level teaspoons full to each gallon of water. To be effective the spraying must be thorough and the whole of the fruit and foliage covered with the solution. The spray must be as fine as possible, so that it is deposited in small drops. A spray which deposits a large blob here and there is useless, particularly on the fruit, and only a waste of time and material, as unless the portion of the fruit on which the caterpillar starts to eat- its way in has poison on it the caterpillar will escape injury, as the poison must he carried into its stomach to kill it. It will be necessary to spray every third week, so that the fruit is covered as it grows; and to meet the attacks of successive generations of caterpillars spray _ atleast three times. Many orcbardists continue to spray until the end of February. Much depends on the variety of trees grown, as some varieties are more susceptible to 'attack than others. Keep the surface soil under the trees free from weeds _or •rubbish, so that there will he nothing to give protection to any mature ’caterpillars which have escaped the 'poison, and fallen off the trees to 'become pupa- and eventually moths. Gather and destroy all fallen fruit not fit for use. and if" the trees are dwarf examine the fruit frequently for signs of caterpillars working in it. The escretia will be seen on the outside of any fruit attacked, which should be picked off and destroyed.